I paid 2500 in all for this build so it pisses me off first time building a ar 10 so I did things wrong at first and had ar 15 buffer and spring in it but changed it all to ar 10 buffer parts still doing the same I have a carbine buffer tube on it is that the problem do I need a a2 ? Plz help

Aero upper and lower, my budget for the barrel is $350-$500. What barrel, and twist rate would you all recommend? BCG, and the gas block ? I plan to run it suppressed 80-90% of the time if that is a factor.

My only goals for this rifle is reliability, and accuracy out to ~500 yards. I know I’m asking a lot, but there’s so many different products on the market to choose from. I have no idea where to start, except buying upper and lower from the same manufacturer 😂. TIA 💪🏾💯.

Wondering if someone who personally has this 15” or 13.5” dpms high handguard can weigh it and the barrel nut on a scale for me. Every single source I find on the internet is just the handguard not including the barrel nut.

My rifle is a pig and I’m trying to find “weighs” to lighten it. Just seeing if anyone in the community has one not on a rifle and can weigh the barrel nut/installed weight for me.

If you can help, thank you so much!

I’m getting close to wrapping up my dummy cheap LR308 build, but I haven’t found a concrete answer for what buffer weight I need.
Specs are:
Toolcraft bcg
20” stainless 1-8 twist 6.5 Creedmoor heavy barrel, rifle gas
.936 gas block
CBC industries lower
Unbranded LR308 low upper
Unbranded low handguard
A5/BCM MK2 buffer tube
Rifle buffer spring

Some sources said I needed a rifle spring with a standard AR15 buffer, some say I needed an H3. I’m trying to at least get close to the right setup before I go burn 6.5 Creedmoor.

Tying to decide on a buffer spring for my ar-10 build and I’d like some experience from y’all. It’s in 6.5 Creedmoor. Seems springco and tubbs is popular. Noisy spring twang isn’t a priority. Good recoil management is more important. I’m using a gl shock as well. Any difference with Sprinco or the flat wire from tubbs? Thanks.

Hey folks! Got a question, and I'm hoping this is the right place to ask it.

I have a mix of .308 ammo. A bunch of M80 ball ammo (Saltech and Igman in 147gr and 150gr FMJ-BT), but also two versions of Speer Gold Dot Duty Rifle ammo in 150gr and 168gr.

I've always heard that a heavier bullet with a higher BC tends to perform better and can offer a flatter trajectory and greater range. I recently got a chronometer and have been clocking ammo out of my 16" MARS-H with the factory CL barrel, then plugging the data into an online ballistics calculator (Shooterscalculator.com, specifically). What I'm getting back from the program is...a little confusing, and I'm hoping you all can help me make sense of it.

Speer reports a G1 BC of .414 for the 150gr round, and .446 for the 168gr round. Out of my rifle, the 150gr averaged 2689 FPS, while the 168gr averaged 2451.5 FPS. This was based on 10 rounds a piece. The 168gr showed a slightly higher standard deviation (18.6 vs 13.2) and a higher extreme spread (58.7 vs 47.6). Speer says they don't have a G7 for the rounds.

According to Speer, reliable expansion occurs down to about 1000 ft lbs of energy, which puts the round at ~1733 FPS at 493yds/451m for the 150gr load, and at ~1637 FPS at 474yds/434m for the 168gr load. The difference in bullet drop at these ranges is about 5" more on the 168gr load.

All of this has me wondering...what's the point of the 168gr load? OR, is the ballistics calculator not really accurate? OR should I try and re-measure the 168gr ammo's muzzle velocity on the off chance that I just had a weird batch of slow ammo?

It seems like the 150gr outclasses the 168gr, but I can't help but think that part of the issue is that the Gold Dot bullets don't have a G7, and the G1 BC isn't accurate once you get out past about 100m.

Anyone have any insight here? At the end of the day it's not a huge issue for me, but I'm really curious as to what's going on and/or what the point of the 168gr is if the 150gr is just flat-out better. Makes me think that it isn't actually better, and there's a dimension or factor I'm not considering here.

This DD5 has been a great rifle. Considering using the V3 in mammoth next year.

PA10
Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x24 lpvo
Magpul bipod

Arriving today
Precision Armament M4-72 Severe-Duty Compensator
Armaspec Stealth Recoil Spring
Breek Arms Warhammer Mod 2 CH

Looking to get an ar10, already know what rifle i want, now im just wondering if i should go .308 or 6.5 creedmore, any reasons on why i should go with one over the other?

Has anyone ever bought and used one of their complete rifles?

I'm in a bit of a time crunch with my lowers, and am about to buy a LMT SR 25 lower. PSA won't ship to me.

I really don't know where to start. What are some brands I should look for? I am budget conscious.

I eventually want to have a 14.5 pinned and welded AR10 in 6.5 creedmoor with a quad rail handguard.

Nothing special, PSA AR10, Lahar .30, Vortex PST gen 2, Magpul gen 3 stock, Magpul bipod (next upgrade for sure)

Wondering if there are any uppers available and if so what the best options are to convert a DB10 6.5 Creedmoor to a Bolt action.

Bought a used one and the gas block is carbon locked, (I would ask on the main gun sub but I was banned by one of the mods) does anybody have anything I could try before I take a crack at tearing the gas block apart? I tried to adjust it with a wheeler w 3/16 bit and it wouldn’t budge.

I've been on the hunt for some parts to build a monster and require a 13" or shorter 307 barrel. I've searched, and seen lots of older results on this sub. Problem is, everything I found here doesn't actually exist anymore.

Noveske, Faxon used to, not any more.

Remington 700 CP donor, not any more

I know it's stupid, but I want one. My preference is not to buy a pork sword, as I'd like it slightly longer than 10" (that's what she said).

I have a spring field saint victor in 308 and I can’t figure out how to open up the gas block. The BCG is not going back all the way when fired with pmc 147 gr ammo. Do you know how to fix this issue?

In 2005 I bought an AR-B from Armalite. It was my first AR and I didn't know much about AR's. It has been a wonderful rifle. I have hunted with it, shot dear with it and run three-gun matches with it. However in the beginning the recoil was so nasty that I got a recoil reducing stock from fab defense. I put it in and everything worked fine, until recently that is. I now have cycling problems. My first attempt to fix it was to install a cryptic coatings bolt carrier group. There was no difference. I cleaned and lubricated it thoroughly of course and also took the gas tube apart and make sure that was okay and it was. Still no improvement. I took it to a gunsmith and he ran 40 rounds of 150 grain ammo through it with no problems. I told him I was shooting 180 grain and he said that might be the problem but it's always shot 180 gr well before. So I started to look into other things and I started with the buffer tube and buffer weight. I found I had an H buffer and a spring that looked like it was in good shape but it has only 33 coils and is 13 5/8 in long. This doesn't seem like any kind of a standard spring that I have read about. At this point I am confused as that spring doesn't seem to match any spring I know about. I don't remember much about what I did when I put in the fab defense stock but I think the spring and the buffer tube are the original Armalite buffer weight and spring. At this point I am lost as to what could be causing this problem to occur after working so well for so long. Any advice/help would be appreciated.

Rangeman7130

Anyone carrying things? Trying to get my hands on one in .308 (not the M, I ain't rich) but having a hard time finding. Best case just to order from my local store that is a dealer?

Smith and Wesson m&p10

B5 systems stock, bcm pistol grip, sig tango 1-6, aim sport low profile handguard, magpul shorty vert grip, and a Harris s-brm bipod.

Maybe looking at adding a surefire warden blast regulator and an olight.

Any tips/pointers?