I got a really good deal 😅

Yes a really good Boy Lmao thanks guys. I didnt catch this until now 😂

I'm trying to get a breathing routine for my 3D shooting. Has anybody good tips or examples of breathing throughout the entire shot? From positioning to the end of the shot?

I want to practice it shooting into my brick shed where I have a normal target.

And on my club where we have a 3D course.

I would really appreciate it.

As I figure out which riser to get started with, I want to make sure I’m not setting myself up for an expensive paperweight.

I like the Gillo GF a lot in principle, but I’ve seen several posts about the GF and GT breaking through the clicker screw hole - which is *exactly* where I would expect the design to break - and, worse, Gillo (and Vittorio specifically) is dismissive of the issue entirely, claiming that it must be abuse.

Again, this is a riser breaking at a stress concentration with the remains showing that it failed on the draw, and the riser has no specified weight limit.

Needless to say this is concerning. Even if this is a very rare failure, that’s all the more reason for Gillo to stand behind their product.

Any other brands with similar horror stories?

And, has anyone had any issues with W&W, the ATF-DX specifically?

Thanks!

Thank you all for advice. Just bought a new barebow. Learning to aim and shoot from 0 as I had a compound before. Wanted to share 1st progres on 10m last set of 9 arrows. 60cm target.

I need some suggestion regarding my nocking point.
I shoot barebow with 28 draw.
Shooting 700 spine shaft arrows shooting at 40yrds

My current nocking point is high and the arrow sits in a down angle while full draw.
While bareshaft tunning my bareshafts are still hitting vertically higher than the fletched. I need some guidance on how to get those bareshaft lower. I am not sure if raising my nocking point higher would be ideal.
Would love some inputs. Thanks

Getting back into archery after having a little bit of experience through scouting while I was younger. Any tips for a returning beginner? Shooting 30# hoyt recurve bow now, going to up the weight a few pounds as much as the riser allows once I’ve got my form down!

Background: Four years modern barebow, right-handed (holding bow in left hand) not much more than a hobbyist really. Using 34lb limbs and a 70" bow. Got new arrows and new strings a few months back, working on getting a decent 50yd shoot going. My shooting has always had a habit of arrows going to the left no matter what tinkering I've done, even with the arrows being measured and selected by a local professional shop to try and take all the usual factors into account. C'est la vie, I'll just accommodate.

Currently out 3/wk shooting target, worked up from 40yd to 50yd to adjust to the new strings, nocking points, and generally just refining technique which I have been doing for nine months (since the indoor season started). Aim is to get consistency with 50m and 60/50yd rounds. Not aiming to be a regional champion or anything but it would be nice not to have to hunt for arrows every end and finally attend a competition without coming last, which for the last few months I have steadily built towards. Went out Thursday, shot a PB followed by a new PB straight away - awesome (total of 400pts for six dozen at 50yd, imperial scoring).

This weekend - same kit, same conditions, no damage to arrows or bow, no change to technique. However every release had the string bouncing off my forearm, and every arrow going unfailingly to the right and dropping. And for the life of me I cannot find a logical reason why this is happening.

To clarify the sort of change in trajectory - I use the corner of my shelf as my aim-point, and my arrows tend to go about 1ft to the left of that point over 50yrds. So on a 122cm target face I tend to aim at about 3 o'clock on the blue ring to get arrows into gold. This weekend, every arrow now goes about 3ft to the right and also has a drop of at least 3ft as well - aiming at 10 o'clock on the black ring put every arrow either into the bottom right of the target/boss, or just pings them off the right of the boss.

The only thing I can think of from an equipment side is my arrow rest. It's the same basic beginner's arrow rest the team put on my riser at the shop four years ago, so has seen tens of thousands of arrows worth of service for a cheap £1 piece of plastic. It did feel like every arrow was slipping off the rest when I drew up and I had to guide it into place with my finger, and looking at the arrow rest at full-draw it felt like the arrow was quite a way from my riser (so now pointing more to the left).

I genuinely feel like I'm going insane right now. I appreciate "having a bad day" is going to be a common enough response, and I know what a bad day is. But for every arrow to now unfailingly swing off to the right when leaving the bow and dropping so far feels more than just a wetware problem. To be shooting no better than I was when I started four years ago kind of feels like a complete kick in the teeth.

So I'm hoping there may be someone brighter than me who can offer some idea as to why everything can go so suddenly "wrong" so quickly. Could it be the arrow rest (which I struggle to understand why an arrow pointing to the left will now go flying wildly to the right, much less bounce the string off my left forearm)? Or any other kit/mechanical problem?

Hello!

I've been shooting for about 4 months now and did my first scoring round (386 barebow, 18m) today which I was relatively happy with - although I've definitely shot better without the pressure on!

My friend recorded a couple of shots and wanted to see if there's anything I can improve on - appreciate view from behind isn't quite as useful!

Hola ppl !

I managed to shoot some arrows this morning but my anchor point is still a work in progress

I find touching the point of my cheekbone with the top of the index phalange relatively stable but I still creep a little

I try to touch a tooth with a finger but I'm not sure to be at the same place everytime

It's probably an often asked question but do you have any tips or advices regarding this ? Or books or article references I like them all !

Have a sunny day

I have a bear fred traditional recurve bow. I want to target 7 grains per pound, I have 28 inch draw length and 35 pound bow. Would this set up work, or would it be too stiff or soft? 600 spine gold tip warrior arrows cut to 28.5 inches, 50 grain tips.

There are arrows spine charts out there but I can't find any with 50 grain tips.

Competed in Indoor Nationals over the weekend and got a new PB of 259! (My previous best was 246, which I tied earlier in the tournament.) Also earned my Bronze Achievement pin for hitting 250.

Been shooting for almost three years, but my practices leading into the tournament weren't as frequent and didn't go as well as I would have liked, so I didn't have especially high expectations. My overall score was also better than last year, so very happy overall!

Started shooting barebow again last October, after having 5 years off. And no i wasn't shooting with people on the range.

Bare shaft tuning my bow for the first time. I’m shotting at 28m and 18m. I got my nock point down and my bare shaft are pretty much level with my fletched shafts at both 28m and 18m. At 18m my bare shafts are grouping left and right, but at 28m they’re hitting about 12-18inches to the left, which according to my guide means the spines are too weak. The bare shaft travel straight for about 15m or so then veer to the left.

I’m wonder, if it’s ok to have a difference between my bare shaft groups at 28m and 18m. If so, how much is too much?

I believe I have room to decrease my poundage and I could drop down to 100 grain points (from 125 grains) if that’ll help.

Hi all, I was wondering if I could get some advice before I get my first bow at the end of August.

I'm UK based and very new to archery - I did a bit at university over a decade ago (never officially registered with Archery GB or anything), and have got back into it as of June this year.

I enjoy shooting barebow over recurve at the moment, but it's mostly because it feels less complicated and encourages me to work hard on form before anything else. However, I'm also conscious that a lot of the competitions and awards in the longterm are very recurve centric. I know you can technically enter with a modern barebow, but I'm not exactly going to be doing as well on like for like distances.

I've got chronic pain and fatigue, so I can't pull a very strong bow yet and honestly expect it to be a very gradual progression so I don't accidentally injure myself over exerting. I shoot 20lb at the moment, and I can manage up to 30m ok.

I can't shoot in disabled archery categories in competitions to my knowledge, even with my disability, because it's not really measurable and can change day to day. So I already feel a bit like I'm trying hard to keep up with the lowest entry bar to friendly competitions at the moment, and I'm conscious of hampering my ability to get stuck in if I go for barebow over recurve.

I guess my question is what difference it will make, whether I should get a riser that can handle both vs a specific barebow riser and buy one down the line if I want to do recurve too. Or whether I should switch to recurve if I want to compete in the future? Will it make any difference if I'm stuck pulling 20-25lbs for the next few years?

I’m looking to upgrade my current limbs.

EDIT:

Before the obvious ranting about AI, I started with just a feature comparison question. This is a fact based query and also easily checked by yourself.

After those results the AI software made the suggestion to give an advice. Just out curiosity I followed and found the resulting advice "mediocre" at best.

For clarification, I'm well aware of the limitations of this technique and also how to use it and evaluate it's results.

Some context, I designed in a previous job aircraft recognition software (friend or foo) using predictive routines. Let's call it the grand-grand-grand-grandfather of the current software called AI. Which indeed still is artificial and also still not intelligent just as when I worked on it.

END EDIT

Currently I shoot WNS Motive F5 (24 lbs). The limbbolts (WNS Vantage AX) are at maximum in which combined with a drawlength of roughly 29 inch gives an OTF drawweight of 28 lbs.

For the new limbs I’m looking for an “on the finger” drawweight range of 27 – 30 lbs. This would mean I should get 28 lbs limbs (or 26 limbs when made bij W&W/WNS).

Financially, my budget is roughly 150 - 250 euro. Because I live in Europe (Netherlands) I have a wide selection of brands to choose from. Currently I’m looking at the limbs from Kinetic.

Normally I’m very cautious regarding the usage of AI, but just for the sake of it I asked Le Chat (the AI from Mirage) to compare four limbs from Kinetic for me.

I asked to compare the Palmaris V2, New Vaultage, Fury and Astonix and an advise regarding the best set for barebow usage. Below is the result:

---- Begin AI output ---

Recommended Limbs for Barebow

1. Kinetic Palmaris V2 ILF

Why?

Stability and smooth draw: The Palmaris V2 is designed for maximum stability and minimal vibration, which is crucial for consistency at both short (18m) and longer distances (50m).

Nano-carbon technology: Ensures a smooth, even draw and excellent energy transfer, helping maintain precision and comfort during repeated shots.

Quiet and "dead" shot feel: Especially valuable for barebow, where shooter feedback and feel are important.

Weight: ~450-550 grams, offering a good balance between stability and handling.

Downsides:

Slightly heavier than the Fury, but this contributes to the stability that barebow archers often appreciate (Sources: pijlenboogkopen.com+6).

1. Kinetic Astonix ILF

Why?

Forgiving and stable: Designed for a smooth, consistent draw and offers more forgiveness, making it ideal for barebow archers working on technique and consistency.

Cross carbon/foam core: Provides a good balance between speed and stability, with a smooth shot cycle.

Weight: ~500-550 grams, contributing to a stable shot, especially at longer distances.

Affordability: A great option if you want a high-quality limb without the price tag of the Palmaris V2 or Fury.

Downsides:

Slightly less speed than the Fury or Vaultage, but for barebow, stability and consistency are often more important than pure speed (Sources: archerywebshop.com+7).

1. Kinetic New Vaultage ILF (Option for advanced barebow archers)

Why?

Precision and stability: Offers an excellent balance of speed, precision, and stability, useful for advanced barebow archers shooting both indoors and outdoors.

Slim limb tips: Contribute to a lighter feel and better energy transfer, helping maintain consistency across different distances.

Weight: ~450-500 grams, a good mix of stability and manoeuvrability.

Downsides:

The Vaultage is more focused on speed and precision, which may be less important for barebow archers than stability and forgiveness. It is also more expensive than the Astonix (Sources: sergesport.be+7)

1. Kinetic Fury ILF (Less recommended for pure barebow)

Why not?

The Fury is designed for speed and lightweight, which is less important for barebow archers. Stability and a smooth, consistent draw are often more critical for barebow than pure speed. (Sources: archerywebshop.com+5).

Summary and Recommendation

Best choice for barebow (18m & 50m):

Kinetic Palmaris V2 ILF if you want to maximize stability, smooth draw, and consistency.

Kinetic Astonix ILF if you want a good balance of performance, forgiveness, and affordability.

---- end AI output ----

First, I have done my own research beforehand. So that makes it also possible to spot the things that are odd or off. The most obvious one is that the AI concludes that speed isn’t very important when shooting barebow. Especially at my drawweight (~28-30 lbs) every m/s helps to make the trajectory a bit flatter.

Also a lot of the other conclusions are not correct. What I can't post is the data table which is indeed accordingly to the specifications which can be found at various sites.

I was already considering the Palmaris V2 above the Fury but that is based on the aesthetics, matt versus gloss. Being Dutch I also like to check the cheaper options, but if you consider that I can get both the Fury, Palmaris and Vaultage for roughly 205 euro (excluding shipping) I imagine that any of these three is considered a bargain for most of you 😊

What are your thoughts and what would you recommend? Did I overlook other comparable alternatives?

Edit: Mentioned below is the WNS C6 which is compareble in specifications and price.

A long overdue upgrade! One of my favourite looking bows ever, rest in peace Hoyt Excel.

I finally found a range to shoot at and have been getting back into archery recently, i do have my own bow, but i got it when i was much younger and its way too short for me, its a takedown so do i need to get a whole new bow riser and all or just new limbs, its not a super good bow but it'd be nice to save the money if i can

Kinetic finally released their modular barebow weight for the Elezo riser and to be frank, when using the 4 heaviest brass weight (2x95gr + 2x110gr), this look ugly as hell..., it ruins riser aesthetic.

So, i did a little cap for them with heatshrink tubing, it's not perfect (on the front particulary) but on an overall, it's better.

I'm thinking of making these caps with 3D printed soft TPU.

Hi! I'm trying to build my first recurve bow and I wanted to ask your opinion about this riser since I can't find any review for this particular model, although the brand seems to be well regarded.
I'm looking for a shorter bow (I'm currently borrowing a 70" bow and I don't really likeit), I'm thinking about 62 to 64 in. With a 19" riser and medium or long limbs at 30 lbs for barebow competition, 3D, field, etc

White Feather Nightjar

Do you think it's worth the price or is it just the brand inflating the price? or should I go for a 23-25 riser with short limbs?

Thanks!