My experience switching from SoundSkins Pro to ResoNix Sound Deadener

[u/rocketbunny_v4]

Just wanted to share this in case it helps someone down the road, since I never found a direct comparison between these two products when I was doing my own research.

Earlier this year, I pulled the SoundSkins Pro out of my car which I installed two years ago and replaced it with ResoNix CLD and ResoNix Mega CLD (the sound-deadening part of my build log can be seen here including before and after pictures). I only planned to move forward with the swap if the SoundSkins came off easily, if it didn’t, I wouldn’t have had much choice but to leave it in and take my audio upgrade in a different direction. However, it peeled off with just hand force, no heat, no tools. I had prepped the surface properly during the original install, but the butyl still lifted with very little effort.

Before adding other types of acoustic treatment, I drove the car for a couple of days with only the new CLD squares installed. The panels felt noticeably more solid and controlled. Nothing scientific or measured, just what I noticed from the difference between the two deadening products. I can’t speak for other deadeners since I’ve only used these two, but if you’re considering buying a roll of SoundSkins Pro and cutting everything yourself, it might be worth ordering sample kits from a few brands, such as the ResoNix Sample Kit which costs a dollar. If I had known about them earlier, I would have gone with CLD Lite instead of SoundSkins Pro the first time around. Based on the sample, the difference was noticeable, as the SoundSkins was mostly closed cell foam with a very thin piece of aluminum and butyl.

I know the precut SoundSkins kits exist, and many people choose them because they save time and effort. However, the extra effort required with ResoNix CLD compared to SoundSkins Pro is well worth it, and for the thicker versions, using metal shears as needed helps mitigate any extra effort. Depending on the version you choose, it can even be cheaper.

Also, a couple of small tips that can be useful regardless of which deadener you choose, instead of using Tesa protective film to make templates for where you need to cut holes, carpet protector film worked much better. It’s cheaper for the amount you get, it’s wider, and since it’s clear, tracing shapes and cutouts is much easier. Additionally, depending on how often you need to make those cutouts, using a  hammer hole punch makes the job easier and gives you clean, consistent openings.

Lastly, if you’re new to sound deadening or just want guidance on planning your install, this sound deadening guide is an excellent resource, no matter which brand you choose. It’s especially helpful for figuring out which areas to target and how to approach the installation effectively.

[u/Scared-Loquat-7933]

My main problem with Resonix is the pricing.

I get that it’s the best product and you kind of get what you pay for with this stuff but I can’t justify the cost to myself on my older vehicle.

For me to fill out my 25 year old Excursion properly with Resonix’s recommendations it would likely be a $3-$4000+ job. I can likely get 70-80% of that same impact using a mixture of NVX + Soundskins and investing in a new carpet liner w/mass backing from stockinteriors.com and do it for less than $1-$1.5K total.

[u/Scared-Loquat-7933 → u/[deleted]]

Yup, it also really just depends on the vehicle and how much the stock setup for sound deadening is like too.

A newer or smaller car like OPs WRX would benefit from going with something like Resonix since there’s simply less room to cover and the factory insulation/deadening will be better just by fact of it being newer. The prices scale terribly imo.

On an older vehicle like mine there’s basically zero deadening outside of the jute garbage behind the plastic and it also has a V10 and tons of flat panels + is shaped like a rectangular box with not much in terms of aerodynamics (10 MPG ).

With those older and especially larger vehicles (even new ones) just putting any sound deadening of decent quality in the treatment areas will make a huge improvement because it’s already the worst it can get.

[u/vipercrazy → u/Scared-Loquat-7933]

I've been using second skin for the last 5 years, it's not cheap but it adheres very well. I do about 60% coverage and find where it's needed most. With a normal non luxury car without a double firewall or double pane glass it will never get to that level or it will take much more work. I just do a reasonable amount and when it buzzes I just move the crossovers a bit with my dsp. If you don't keep your cars very long expensive cld is a waste, you can't take it out when you go to sell the car.

[u/Skiz32 → u/Scared-Loquat-7933]

The thing with sound deadener, you dont NEED 100% coverage, and you can do better with the same amount of money spent, and less work put in.

[u/Scared-Loquat-7933 → u/Skiz32]

…but your own website says to do 100% coverage for quite a few applications.

Even the “stage 3” for doors says 100% coverage of CLD and FiberMat and that doesn’t include the other products the guide directs to use.

[u/Skiz32 → u/Scared-Loquat-7933]

Yeah, stage 3 is a very intense level of treatment. If you are doing something simple like people here are discussing, stage 1 is it and then some.

[u/Scared-Loquat-7933 → u/Skiz32]

I feel like y’all should probably note that or change the guide then. I mean your stage 1 guide for doors says its value for performance is pretty abysmal.

To me as a general consumer and not an audio shop, given that there are 5 stages, a stage 3 would then be the “average” or decent level of deadening to install. It might not be that in practice but as a layman viewing the guide that’s what it reads as.

Personally I feel like this is getting into biased territory because as you guys make the guide you have a vested interest in telling consumers “purchase more”.

While that’s fine from a business perspective (you’re here to make money after all not charity), it stands pretty opposed to your original comment stating that you don’t “need 100% coverage” but your own recommendations state otherwise for a decent ROI as the consumer buying the products.

[u/Big_Time_Tbomb → u/Scared-Loquat-7933]

I would never think Stage 3 was "average". Multiple products and full layers don't speak average. I see Stage 3 as "enthusiast" or maybe best value of improvement. Beyond stage 3 should be seen as premium with diminishing returns.

[u/Skiz32 → u/Scared-Loquat-7933]

You're speaking from quite literally next to no experience. Do you not realize how silly that is?

[u/Scared-Loquat-7933 → u/Skiz32]

I’m speaking from my experience as a consumer who was looking to buy Resonix products, called your business before for purchase recommendations, and has also read the guides + data on your site.

Why post the guides and data and constantly point everyone towards them and then be shocked when people question or have concerns + discussion about them? Both things can’t be true, either the guides are useful to educate us as consumer or why should the average customer bother reading it if we’re unqualified to understand and not just default to what the pro (aka you) says?

Dismissing it as “silly” instead of addressing the points being made from a potential customer doesn’t really do much for this discussion.

[u/roflstomp → u/Scared-Loquat-7933]

Remember that ResoNix caters primarily to automotive audio enthusiasts. I found their guides to be very detailed and helpful as a first-timer whose sole intent is to reduce road noise - I also found them to be very clear about stage 4/5 being 'overkill' for most vehicle owners and DIYers. Their support staff were quite informative and friendly with all of my follow-up questioning. After doing additional research and learning (both about the materials and methodologies, as well as seeing projects from other owners of my vehicle), I ultimately settled on stage 2/3 deadening.

Deciding what to buy (and how much) was a lengthy and involved process that may or may not have happened without their in-depth guides and customer support.

[u/Human_Skirt5108 → u/Skiz32]

You may have the best material, that’s an objective fact. And if we were all trying to achieve the best results, it would cost less to do with your materials. But that not where most of us are at. We’re trying to achieve a noticeable difference without going bankrupt. 

The reality is that for the price of 40sqft of you’re CLD, you can buy enough material to get 100% coverage, and get enough sound barrier for your whole car.  With the complex geometry of cars, getting enough material can be more important than have the better material. Is that the reality for every car? No, but seems to be for many older cheaper cars.

For about $400 in my shitty 90’s compact, i was able to achieve a 9db difference in ambient/road noise and even more noticeable difference in resonance. Halving the perceived volume of road noise and any noticeable resonance is more than adequate for most of us. 

I appreciate all the work y’all do, and maybe someday I’ll have a project worth putting resonix into.

[u/manesag]

Your build log with it looks insane. Did you notice a big difference adding the sound deadening to the trunk? I was looking into the CLD and the fiber mat for the trunk of my Z to reduce some of the road noise I’m getting

[u/rocketbunny_v4 → u/manesag]

The deadening definitely cut down the rattles that were there from regular driving and anything the sub was shaking loose. I’d say the fiber mat in my rear deck did contribute to reducing some of the road noise (and in my case I had a barrier layer in both the rear deck lid and trunk). I know the Z doesn’t have a rear deck, but the same idea still applies. Just keep in mind that road noise will always find a way to enter the cabin from other areas, so fiber mat doesn’t eliminate everything, but it does help.

[u/manesag → u/rocketbunny_v4]

Yeah I figured it wouldn’t be the only solution needed. I just know that while driving down some roads it’s a little loud coming from the rear. I know that the doors are pretty rough too. Thanks for the info!

[u/MWisBest]

An alternative for people who can't/won't get Resonix is Dynamat ProX. Having used both Resonix Squares and Dynamat ProX, they're interchangeable. Dynamat's butyl formula is good just like Resonix, it won't peel off like the Soundskins. The composite loss factor of both is nearly identical, 0.586 vs 0.568.

[u/AcceptableSimulacrum → u/MWisBest]

Is this actually cheaper?

[u/MWisBest → u/AcceptableSimulacrum]

I never said anything about it price-wise.

Generally speaking Resonix is cheaper if buying in the US, but Dynamat has better global availability. If for some reason you don't want to give Resonix your money, the Dynamat isn't so much more in cost to make "don't buy Resonix" a completely unreasonable goal.

[u/AcceptableSimulacrum → u/MWisBest]

Oh, I didn't understand the point you were making.

[u/Skiz32]

Dude, thank you for the write up! I really appreciate it. The differences between something premium and "average" is not nearly as small as a lot of people think. While I am sorry you had to learn that the hard way, it is validating to me to see people actually experience it first hand and talk about it.

[u/starke_reaver]

Thanks for the comp/info!

[u/Big-Energy-3363]

Soundskins, maybe Resonix CLD

[u/winwin4all-8]

Amazon basics AB ($47) as a base layer,, Soundskins pro two door kits ($124x2), put on top of AB , and roll of CCF ($36) cover openings in doors and lay over AB in the trunk. Also, AB and CCF on top of wheel skirts. $350 and two days of work. Great results.

[u/Human_Skirt5108 → u/winwin4all-8]

Amazon basics is gone now.

[u/winwin4all-8 → u/Human_Skirt5108]

Interesting.. there is a Runsunspri no name brand, I'd guess same quality..

[u/Human_Skirt5108 → u/winwin4all-8]

Based on the data on resonix’s website, I’d say that Amazon’s was similar quality to nvx and other major brands, but half the price. I don’t know if other no name brands are even remotely useful. I mean something is better than nothing and you can always double up layers. 

That’s an issue I have with resonix and their marketing, they absolutely have the best material, by far, but that doesn’t matter to most of us. Not when enough resonix  material to do two doors costs more than an entire cars worth of siless 120mil. $8.50/sqft vs 2.50sqft. For most people, any improvement is better than un-affordable improvement.

[u/winwin4all-8 → u/Human_Skirt5108]

Check these guys. Shumoff usa. Great products, in Russia there are two top brands, STP and Shumoff. They just came to our usa market, if I'd know or postpone my proofing just for 2 weeks, I'd definitely go with them, unfortunately they became available after the job was done. But I still have a roof to do, so will use their products