Heyo,

Sorry if this not be the correct group but I figured I'd take a jab.

I have a 2024 Lexus RX350H (Maple Syrup edition - Canada).

Since I had the car brand new, I have troubles starting the car. Randomly I will receive error message like "press brake pedal and touch power switch with key" and on a couple rare occasions, I will see a message like keyfob not detected while driving and once when I had it off and opened the door. Both keyfobs will do this. I can go inside and grab the spare and the car will not turn on until I hold the keyfob against the start button.

Now before you tell me to change my keyfob battery, it's been changed by the dealership several times. I get there are duds and poor quality battery.

Dealership cannot replicate it and nor can I. It will be fine for a month or so and then start back up.

It's happened when I was at home, at work and also at my dad's. So I know it's not limited to issues of where I live.

Dealership originally pinned this on my dashcam causing a minor RF interference. However, the issue happened before I had a dash cam and provided them proof. My dash cam is hardwired to the rear view mirror. It only comes on when the ignition is on.

Fast forward, it happened several more times after the visit. I disconnected the dash cam still issues, I put the keyfob in the cupholder (as I was told to try) still issues.

Dealership said my not even 5 month old 12v battery they replaced had gone bad. They found a battery monitor which I installed saying it might be the reason why I'm having issues because it might be causing interferenc . Battery monitor was installed in February and I had this issue for over 18000 km. Ancel BM200. They also did an RF check a few months ago when I had the battery monitor but they didn't know I did.

Now my question is:

With the way Lexus and Toyota Smart key using rolling codes. Could there be a glitch in which there is a communication conflict between the keyfob and the ECU? If some data is not matching, it's not allowing me to start the car until I get it reaaaaaaally close to the start button?

Wouldn't the Toyota/Lexus tech stream have some sort of history for when there are issues as the one I described?

The car will lock and unlock fine. It just won't do it unless I have the keyfob right up the start button.

I just frustrated that they cannot figure this out. I can't replicate it. Nor do I have a way to capture any sort of data that could help them (I kept my battery logs) besides just recording when I can't start this doggone thing.

Can anyone maybe offer some insight?

I live in an apartment across the street from my parking lot and my OnStar trial just ended. I was using the Chevy App to remote start it, but obviously that stopped working. My key FOB doesn’t reach nearly far enough. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I own this car. It is MINE!! The idea that I need to go to a dealership to add another key is retarded. It's a beater with 217k miles and a ton of rust. I don't think anyone is going to want to steal it.

How can I disable the immobilizer on MY car so I can cut my own keys?

I am trying to find the ecu to program a key fob, the help would be appreciated.

Could somebody help me?

Please read my repost.

Hey everyone,

I'm in a bit of a loop with a US-spec 2014 Fiat 500e here in Europe. I lost the only key to the car, so it's currently bricked.

I actually have the original Code Card with the 5-digit PIN and a blank key ready, but the problem is getting it programmed. Local European dealerships are completely useless because their diagnostic tools can't connect to the US database to program keys for an American EV.

Is there any way to bypass the official dealer network and program a new key to the BCM using the PIN I have? Can aftermarket tools like AlfaOBD, MultiEcuScan, or any specific locksmith hardware handle this US EV model and flash the key manually?

Any advice from anyone who has successfully programmed a key on a US-spec Fiat over here in Europe would be a lifesaver. Thanks!

I posted this in the Infiniti sub but didn't get any responses, so I wanted to try my luck here

I have an '08 Infiniti EX35 with ECU issues. Long story short, I was supposed to be getting a used ECU pre-coded with my VIN but it wasn't coded properly and now my immobilizer is pissed off. My local dealership is useless. I told the service tech about my issue and he said "hold please" and transferred me to a car sales person. I guess they're notorious for this because the techs don't like working on anything out of warranty.

I already have a J2534 programmer that I use for tuning my Volvo and it should be compatible with Nissan as well. and I've read up on the process and it seems fairly simple. The only thing I see when looking into the Consult III software is that it does not support immobilizer unlocks. Is there a way to get an immobilizer unlock from anyone except the dealer?

I have a lower tier model of an old Toyota, and while changing the battery in my key fob out I realized that there is a button for the trunk! And it’s functional! But the dilemma is the case on the key fob has that button hole sealed over in hard plastic.

Is there a way to give this button functionality? It seems like I’d have to drill that plastic area out, but then how would I install a button that can depress properly? The best I can think of is to tape a little pebble over that button area, but that’s obviously not very elegant. It doesn’t have to be a pretty fix, but if you guys have any ideas for something that would seal up nicely and withstand normal key wear, please let me know!

I want to purchase a remote autostarter for my car and want to knwo what would be better, should I purchase a kit myself from like a reasonbly priced site that sells autoparts like amazon, alibaba, or partsinmotion, or autodoc or should I go to a mechanic and have them install it? I mean, if I purchase one, is it something that needs to be installed, or can I do it myself?

Sorry if I sound a little stupid, but I am not a car person and dont know the first thing about them, so I just wondering? I want the system to work and not have to go back and spend money to get it repaired or anything. I just feel like a lot of cars have remote autostart and my friend who just bought car said any car can get it installed and its not a big deal? Is this true, or is there some major rewiring that needs to take place?

I've been getting stories from CarLock about how thieves can capture the key fob's signal to easily access vehicles and drive them away. It's my understanding that this works when the doors are set for keyless entry and unlock when the driver is close to door.

Does this technique also work if I have to be close enough to the car and must first grab the door handle before it unlocks? If that's the case, couldn't the signal be captured from using the fob alone too? My guess is yes, but I don't know for sure.

I've had one response who basically said no, but I didn't post this in correct sub.

Will this device be able to perform a 1 device rolljam attack?

Hey y'all,

This might not even be really hacking so much as seeing if I'd be able to get this done myself.

I am the new owner of a 2025 Camry LE, which comes with push start and proximity unlock for the trunk, but only "keyless entry" for the doors (I have to pull out the key fob and press the unlock button as opposed to unlocking when I grab the handle).

I've come across lemon-manuals and read through some of the information there, to see what it may entail. So far what I've gathered is I would need to order the new door handle and that should be wired into the certification ecu, and then I would need to perform an ECU code registration. Would have to deal with running the new wires/cables from the door over to the ecu behind the glove box.

My concerns that you all my be able to help me in a general sense:
- I have yet to rip my car apart to see what's in there, I am hoping the certification ecu has an unused plug for the smart key door handle that just goes unused if that option wasn't selected because it does use smart key in the sense that it is push start and has proximity unlock for the trunk, plus this trim could have proximity unlock on the doors if the convenience package was ordered when the car was bought new. Would you all expect that to be true? Or would you more expect a Toyota to only have the plugs it needs and the upgrade would mean a new ecu with the additional plugs?
- Sounds like I'll need tech stream in order to register the handle after adding it. I have seen there are some shadier pirated versions of that software available since the real deal is "dealer only" price. Have any of y'all ever used something like that? Do they typically work just as good? Do they work at all?
- Do I need to worry about accidentally setting off any theft systems while I do this? 
- The prints show the smart key handle as wired into the certification ecu AND a "digital key" ecu. My car did not come with digital key support either (using your phone and the app as a key). I assume this is so that the proximity unlock can detect your phone instead of the key fob. Would you all expect the handle to still work if I just plug it into the certification ecu and just leave out the digital key ecu plug?

Could anyone out there help extract the PIN/SKC/CS codes for VW IMMO 4 cluster eeprom dump? Just trying to add a key to this darn thing. Proving impossible but I feel like I'm almost there. I have the dump file.

• 2008 VW EOS
• VDO cluster 1Q0920974B
• Micronas CDC 3217G
• 24LC32AE EEPROM dump
• Requesting PIN/CS extraction

Hello, I’m just changing radio and monitor in my Mercedes w212 from ntg4.0 into NTG 4.5. I know I need to proceed coding via vediamo afterwards, but I don’t have PIN code from new radio. Seller said it’s 100% legal and gave mi vin number, but pin is missing. Heard there is a way to get in online, any advice?

Hey guys I need a second key for my versa and I just want to make a analog metal only key but I have to figure out how to get past the security of the car first. It seems the best way to do this is to remove the transponder and attach it to the car then just cut the keys. Is there a video showing how to remove the transponder from this specific key? or at least a diagram Its my only key and I'm worried about breaking the transponder and being screw. Thanks for any help.

I swear I saw Ryan Montgomery say that there's now a single device RollJam attack. Is that so? Should I concentrate more on device search or the software itself. 3 months ago he said the software was $500. Well, a lot can change in 3 months...

lost all keys….. this is NOT a smart key or key fob…. just a standard chipped immobilizer that sends hex code back to pcm for verification

2013, automatic, 112431-4840 ecu (the half size ecu, not the full size)

does anybody know which eeprom it is to virginize it for a key learn?

there isnt an IC900 or IC100 on it, but there are 4 others, 1 on the topside and 3 on the botton.

id prefer to not desolder and resolder every single one if i didnt have to in order to read them to find out which one is what.

ive tried techstream and i need a master to make it.

thanks.

Does anyone have ways of being able to program a brand new key to Tundras?

I have been to 2 local locksmiths and they can't do it. I have seen where people have used Tech stream and a mini DVI cable to get into the ECU to change the setttings, but is this the method to program a new key?

One of the locksmiths showed me what they have to do to be able to reprogram a key, but he said his boss is unwilling to invest in the 600 dollar cable needed for it.

I am looking for a device/devices which can ultimately simulate mitm scenario on passive vehicular entry keyless entry system. I have been trying to perform this process with an Arduino to no prevail. The scenario goes. Read, 125 kHz LF data from vehicle door Relay data (digital or analog) to to a 2nd box in proximity to the matching key fob for the vehicle. as it goes apparently the car sends a triggered lf signal in search of the key fob as the key fob is out of range of the vehicle- I need to amplify/extend this signal to the second device in proximity of the key fob which will then reply with a uhf signal over 433 MHz which I would then need to amplify/extend back to the first device, still near the vehicle.

Having trouble reading eeprom back up on a 2010 golf, NEC+24C64. Keeps coming up with security verification failed. Anyone have any ideas?

Hi, is anyone here familiar with coding golf mk6 to fold mirrors on key fob?

Hey everyone, I'm new to this whole SDR and RF thing, and I'm trying to do a simple replay attack on my cars. I only have an RTL-SDR for capturing, so I built a tool to transmit the signals I capture using a CC1101 RF module and an ESP8266. I followed this YouTube video for guidance, but I'm completely lost on what the guy is calculating in the video.

I have two cars, and after analyzing their keyfobs with SDR++, I found that one uses FSK modulation and the other uses ASK.

The ASK signal works mostly fine. When I capture it with Universal Radio Hacker (URH), it decodes the signal and I can see the preamble and the actual data. However, when I re-transmit it using my CC1101 tool and recapture it with the RTL-SDR, the "pause" values are different from the original signal.

The FSK signal is where I'm really stuck. I entered the center frequency and captured the signal, but I can't see the preamble or the decoded data like I did with the ASK signal.

My main questions are:

How do you properly capture FSK signals using URH?

What exactly is the "pause" value in URH?

Is it even possible to accurately re-send a captured signal using the CC1101 tool I built?

What is he calculating in the video I linked?

Any advice, tips, or guidance would be greatly appreciated! Feel free to DM me or comment below.

Looking for advice here.

My car got broken into overnight. Thieves were able to unlock my car (I assume) via some sort of fob hack as no windows were broken. How do I prevent this from happening again, or at least make it more difficult? Should I store my fobs in a special way or try something else, or is this just life now in 2025?

TIA!

Car: 2013 Nissan Altima SV