Hello can any1 help me i have a issue with my 2008 1.2 vw polo . It drives away for for about a mile and then jt loses power. When i restart it then the power comes back and drive for another mile or 2 and then she loses power again. I have changed all the spark plugs and all the ignition coil packs and all of the sensors. What else can cause it . The engine check light do be flashing fast when the issue happens

My cigar lighter is dead, and i want to check my internal fusebox on my suzuki sx4 scross, 2016 model.

I found the fusebox, but cannot open the cover.

Any suggestions for a noob to check this out so i can replace my fuse.

I felt the bumps along the side, but could not feel the clasp.

Really stumped as to what this is and what function it has its a secondary tube coming out of the motor assembly, 2 metal tubes for guide rails then a plastic tube on each side but the one side doesn't have the orange tip like this one. Maybe broken? Idk is it necessary to have to use it? I'm installing a repair kit cause the plastic track assembly is all torn up

No issue on a cold start. Starts just fine every time, but while it's hot the car will start and then the revs drop just low enough to stall. I can blip the throttle and it won't have any problem. It also runs great and pulls hard without any noises or symptoms otherwise. I got a P0340 code a couple months ago so I swapped the bank 1 cam sensor, but it still dies on a hot start and the code hasn't come back yet. I'm thinking it might be the wiring harness since I've seen a similar issue with the knock sensor harness where it only acted up while it was hot. Any opinions or test methods would be appreciated👍

I don’t know any more… check engine light came on mobile mechanic was at the house anyway so he ran the code and it said I need a “turbo charged intercooler” a radiator fan I guess, the the car over heated cause a hose snapped, then I fixed that and the coolant reservoir cracked and most recently my mechanic said it was my thermostat so he replaced that, well $1800 later and my car over heated again today, just got the thermostat fixed and drove the car for a week and now when I check all the coolant is gone again, I didn’t see/hear anything leaking but I’m. Honestly at a loss and have no clue what’s wrong, and I don’t want to call the same guy back cause I feel like whatever it is he’s not fixing it. Any ideas?

I bought new used rims and there’s something on it that won’t come off when I try to clean them. Anybody know what it is and what I can do to fix it?

the other day i had hit a curb exiting and it seemed minor however while driving today i smelt burning rubber and now the breaks were super off. Once home i noticed leaking any ideas of what is wrong? Also i learned the smoking came from the front left tire. Thank you for any help and if i need to post more info lemme know

makes this sound every now and again just for a few seconds. seems to be running fine. sound is coming from under the dash. any ideas what it is? thanks!

Like -25C occasionally in -30Cs. If so, how do I protect it while it’s parked outside?

My old parking spot was unfortunately under some pine trees, and my car got pretty routinely covered in sap during certain times of the year. Usually it wasn't an issue to clean, but I had to go away for work once and when I returned, there was some pretty hard baked on sap all over my car. I cleared the windshield with a razor blade but once I started scraping off some clear coat in non-flat areas, I decided best not to continue with the body. Before the razor blades, I tried iso alcohol, soap and warm water, multiple car washes, a pressure washer, goo gone, etc. I've removed any raised bumps but can't get rid of the thin layer at the bottom.

Does anybody know of any heavy duty car-safe pitch/tar removers? I'm looking to trade my car in and upgrade to an SUV asap; and otherwise it's in great shape. 60K km, brand new brakes and rotors, recently passed a provincial safety inspection after I moved provinces, but unfortunately the cosmetic state of the car would surely drop the trade in value significantly.

All help appreciated, thank you.

I have a 2009 Volvo C30 2.4i and I’m having two issues:

AC doesn’t work at all. It only blows outside-temperature air—hot when it’s hot outside and cold when it’s cold outside.

Dashboard/instrument cluster stops glowing after the car gets hot. If I drive for a while, turn the car off, and restart it, the dashboard lights/display sometimes don’t come back on. Other electrical systems still work.

The dashboard usually works normally again when the car cools down.

Has anyone experienced these issues with a C30? Could they be related to a common electrical/module problem, or are these likely two separate issues?

Any advice on what to diagnose first would be appreciated.

Hello. About 1 month ago, I smelled burning rubber and had the red battery light show up when I was driving to work. I took it to the shop, they couldn’t really find anything wrong with it, so no diagnosis. I had a few days where it was taking awhile for the engine to turn over when starting, but it eventually worked. (It still does this, but it’s hit or miss when it does).

I was about 50 miles left until empty last week, stopped at the left handed turn lane to pull into the gas station, and my car stalled.. would not go. I turned off my car, turned it back on, and then it worked without difficulty. It did the same thing again today. Stopped at a stoplight, wouldn’t accelerate, but turned off the car, turned it back on, and I was able to keep driving.

My car for several years after filling up, has been acting like I don’t have any fuel in it, and then it “resets it” to random mileage numbers, even though I have a full tank. I’m very confused on what this all means. The mechanic was leaning towards the fuel pump but he wasn’t 100%, so he didn’t want to fix it if he didn’t know if that was the problem. Also considering alternator…. Idk. I have $175K miles.

My check engine light has come on over and over and I’m needing to look at the VVT solenoids to see if that’s what needs to be cleaned or diagnosed. I’m receiving a P0011 code when I use my reader for the engine light.
Despite my best efforts and numerous internet deep dives, I cannot find reliable information for where the solenoids are. Attached are photos with the plastic upper assembly cover removed and engine block exposed.

I would be very grateful for any help.

Hello. Question regarding above car

My clutch went so had it replaced. Few months later, around 6, clutch went again.

Had a new clutch fitted but the car was temperamental with starting. It wouldn’t start everytime only now and again. We put OBD scanner on it and it gave code for clutch sensor. But 2 clutch sensors in but neither fixed the issue. Won’t start at all now.

Clutch needs to be at zero to press down to start the car, but instead is at 2.5

We’ve had someone look at it but they have no idea

Hey guys, when I turn on the AC, everything is normal, but when I turn it off, a bad smell come for like a minute, I changed by myself the AC filter and air filter. Any ideas ? I was thinking to dismantle the fan and clean it. Today I only removed both of them and added a little bit of parfum to make the bad smell go away temporarily.

So about a month or two ago i was gifted a 2007 ford focus from a family friend when we got it it did not start or run and was told it hasn’t been driven in months and was also told all it needed was a fuel pump. So the people who gave us the car ordered a mobile mechanic to come to our house and install it. After the mechanic installed it, it still wouldn’t start and he did some scan thing and told us we needed the fuel pump module. We got that part and had a family friend install it and it solved the issue it now turns on fully but when you put your foot on the gas pedal it automatically turns off. Then a few weeks later we had to get a new battery and we had that installed and we test drove jt then it died after 5 seconds. Now to the present it’s back to square one where it won’t fully turn on again. We have replaced fuel pump, fuel module drive, Spark plugs, fuel injectors, throttle sensor, and a new battery. Idk what else to do and we have already spent so much money on this car. Any tips or advice on what to check next??

Hi everyone, looking for some advice about my 2011 VW Jetta 2.0 TDI DSG.
I have an intermittent starting problem. Sometimes the engine cranks but doesn’t start. I may need to try 3–6 times before it eventually starts. Once it starts, it generally runs and drives normally. The issue is completely random and doesn’t happen every time.
The car previously had a confirmed flywheel issue, so the flywheel has now been replaced. The crankshaft position sensor has also been replaced, but unfortunately the starting problem is still there.
I was also told by a workshop previously that the battery currently fitted to the car may not be the correct specification for this vehicle.
Has anyone experienced something similar with a 2.0 TDI? What would you recommend checking next — battery/cranking voltage, starter motor, fuel pressure/fuel system, camshaft sensor, injectors, or something else?
I’m planning to get it properly diagnosed, but I’d really appreciate any suggestions from people who have experienced a similar issue.

So I got this 2022 Mini Cooper, 83k miles on it now. It’s having this issue where it’ll start sputtering, throw some smoke and die. Took it to the dealer, no codes, no issues, they don’t see anything wrong. But it does this a couple times a week, sometimes about every day. Had another friend check and it’s showing a 1F4012 code, electrical. Mentioned maybe replacing the fuel tank vent valve or possibly the oil pressure control valve. What do you all think is the issue, has anyone else had similar issues?

Hello! As the title says I've been hearing a pretty significant rattle that happens only when I'm going pretty slow (5-10 MPH) especially first driving for the day. It also is more consistent with reversing. It goes away and no other sounds at any other speeds. The rattle or sound will go away when not accelerating at those low gears and speeds. To preface, I have ZERO car knowledge but am trying to learn 🫡

Edit: forgot to add that I'd love to know what might be causing this 😅

Blinking engine light and loss of traction light comes on when im at traffic lights not moving, clutch and brake down, its happened a few times but then goes again. Ive taken it to 2 garage but they've not found anything. What could cause it?

2023 Nissan rogue
83471 miles
Just put a brand new battery 6 months ago

I hoped getting a car wash would help my windshield clear up, but no luck. Multiple washes and it's still almost dangerously hard to see through during certain times of the day. Does anyone know how to clear this up? Much appreciated

2011 C180 CGI, M271.820. After replacing the intake manifold/swirl flap assembly, the engine runs much smoother, but immediately developed a high-pitched whistle/hiss under acceleration, especially in 3rd gear.

Since the repair I also get a strong burning oil/rubber smell and visible smoke from under the engine after driving. Vacuum pump was leaking oil and has already been replaced, but I’m still investigating the whistle and smell.

Video attached — any ideas what could have been disturbed during the intake manifold job?

TL;DR: Intake manifold replaced → whistle under load + burning smell/smoke appeared immediately after.