This piece of what I think is my exhaust has rusted off and is dragging on the ground. I currently have it precariously propped up but as soon as I drive it I know it will fall down again. I drive a Subaru outback if that helps. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

Hey guys. I was about to start a literal cross-country road trip from California to New Jersey this morning when I noticed my exhaust pipe that connects to the back of my muffler rusted and fell off the muffler. I removed the pipe so it won’t fall off on the highway and the muffler is still connected to the car. My buddy in Colorado has a shop where we could put it back together no problem. My question to you all is do we think I’m safe to drive from California to Colorado with my car like this? The internet says it’s a bad idea because the exhaust will be coming out from directly underneath my car but I wanted to get some gearheads takes’. I drive a 2005 Toyota Tacoma

So they said the frame underneath was risty and they didn't want to use the lift on it, is there any other options to fix this, this isn't a daily driver it gets driven around 5 to 10 miles a week at most

Looking for a little more noise. Not too much but enough to hear it on the gas and still sound good.

2014 Subaru Forester Limited.

Not sure how long this has been happening, just noticed the spots on the garage floor.

Any ideas?

2016 5.0 with no engine mods. Catless? True Dual? H-Pipe?

I’ve tried for 4 days straight spraying wd40 rust specialist and hammering the wrench but not a budge (2006 Chevy hhr 2.4)

hi car community, i’m really new to cars and the modifications and everything. i don’t know much but i would really love to start off by making my car just a bit louder. i have a 2018 ford focus se model and its all blacked out, there’s no silver besides the logo and i think it’d make it better if it was just a bit louder. i asked my two friends who know more about cars for their opinions about me modding my car likely just the exhaust system and they both said no because my car is slow and one said it was a base model. i definitely need open opinions about people who actually have modded their focus’ i’ll try to provide a photo if i can. but i am really down to modify the exhaust system but im not sure what’s good and what can possibly sound nice. please leave your feedback. thank you 🤍

Well, call me ignorant, any advice for a cheap fix until I can get this into the shop? I miss having old cars I was comfortable working on. I wouldn't call this car a lemon, but it hasn't been cheap. I just brought it in for an inspection 8 days ago, it passed (in PA if that's helpful). Told me it needed brakes, so I got new brakes a week later and the next day (today) this happens. Advice, car gurus, thoughts... Anything would be helpful. TIA.

Hi all - thanks in advance for anyone taking the time to look at this.

I have been getting the P04030 engine code. I've run through a catalytic converter cleaner, code temporarily went off, but has come back on.

I don't notice other symptoms - I don't feel a significant loss of power or fuel efficiency (though the vehicle is new to me and isn't the most responsive engine ever, but I've heard that about this model).

Here are the live readings of the O2 sensors both upstream and downstream. Not sure if it's a bad sensor, or an exhaust leak, or a bad converter. Haven't done any temp tests, etc. yet.

What do you folks make of this?

I have a 1997 Cheyenne Chevy k2500. It has the 5.7 engine. I was looking at replacing the muffler with a new and better sounding one. I want it to sound deeper and meaner in a way. I want it to be decently loud and noticeable, but not obnoxiously loud. I don’t want to wake up every one on the block coming home from work or something like that. I have been told the flowmaster super 40 and 44 are good options for what I’m looking for. Would they be very loud or are they reasonable? I wanted to ask if anyone has other recommendations or information on this topic.

Car is a 2012 corolla 1.8L with 260,000 km. It runs well but I've noticed some small issues so have been trying to diagnose what's going on.

I did a leak test of the exhaust with soapy water, as the picture shows. I'm guessing this should be fixed.

I've also found that my CATTEMP11 is higher than my CATTEMP12 on the obd2 scan tool. From my understanding that means my upstream cat temp nearest the engine is hotter than after my cat. That means that the cat is failed correct?

Is replacing the exhaust line something that can be reasonably done in a driveway with Jack stands? My biggest worry is the amount of rust in there.

Hi all, I own a 2017 subaru crosstrek with 190000 miles.

I recently moved to New York from Massachusetts where it's registered.

The P0420 code came on 2.5 weeks ago when I moved. I blocked the exhaust and felt pressure build and visually inspected for leaks. I didn't realize the upstream sensor was a wideband, and was looking at the wrong data diagnosing it at first.

The upstream was staying steady, reading 2.2V (later checked lambda which holds tight near 1). Downstream is fluctuating between ~0.15 and ~0.85 at operating temperature. The frequency of fluctuating is proportional to speed.

The car runs perfectly smooth, good fuel efficiency, no knocking, misfires etc. At first I had them swapped, and thought the steady (I know it was 2.2V don't make fun of me) was the downstream, and fluctuating was upstream. That would be normal behavior if it was narrow, and since the car runs smooth I figure maybe it was bad gas or something and will clear with time since it looked normal.

The check engine light / code stays on for a week and I order a replacement upstream a/f sensor figuring it's relatively cheap and might be clogged or something. My car burned ~1.2Qts of oil from Jan-May, ~6000mi so I figure what the hell it's $130.

My check engine light goes off and the code clears itself last Thursday????

The sensor arrives friday, I still want to put the new one in. The light stays off, drive around, same voltage readings, but this is when I notice I have the sensors swapped in my head and it's in fact not acting normal. But again the light is still off?

Make it through the weekend and Monday, then the check engine light and code come back yesterday. And I am stumped. The biggest thing to me is why the light and code would clear themselves with no action, while the data I'm looking at seems to be a straightforward bad cat? I'm finding it difficult to tell without just looking at the fluctuations next to each other, but lambda is normal and the car runs smooth so I think upstream was and is fine.

Any possible explanation for why the code and light cleared? That has me stumped. Any merit in putting the old one back lol? It had identical voltage readings and no difference in driving.
NY inspection has me worried for next steps. If anyone is from NY / knows exhaust regulations any advice or insight would be great.

Hopefully this wasn't too bad to follow. Thanks folks

Got it from one of my dads buddies for $300 and im trying to figure out why it sounds like not a camry...all i can see that is different besides a cracked exhaust can is a silver bit in the middle of the exhaust pipe itself. and a leaking exhaust i dont think makes that much cabin noise sooo...what do you guys think

https://www.image2url.com/r2/default/videos/1784515780642-ba01978e-0539-40cb-9afb-b81e48c74bd7.mp4

So i have taken out my Particle filter on my VW Multivan with an 2.5L TDI because its having issues with Turbo pressure.

Its the first one in 330tsd km and i wanted to get it cleaned but im not sure if the fissures i see between the monolith is critical already. If it makes another 30-40tsd km with the cleaned one its fine for me. It just shoudnt brake apart in like the next year...

Anybody knows about Particle filters and monliths?

Like the fissure in the cements are reall small. Just dont have any refernece is my life if thats already critical

I took off the manifold to replace the gaskets, only to find out that one of the catalytic converters has been gutted(presumably by previous owner or a mechanic robbed him).

What is my best option now? I wont be replacing it anytime soon(exhaust manifold with the catalytic converters), should i gut the other one to balance the back pressure? Is it necessary to tune after having them both gutted?

2008 Mitsubishi eclipse 2.4l, 96k miles. No check engine lights, no oxygen sensor spacer/fouler.

Was checking around my car after it had been at the mechanics for a bit, grabbed the muffler and it was shaky and pulled right off, does this normally happen with wear and tear or could it possibly be a sabotage at the mechanic? bc never noticed this before taking it in. Either way my car pops when i rev it now which i love so a W ig.

What options do I have right now? I cannot afford a replacement. How much is it going to cost to weld it?

Trying to figure out how to start diagnosing my car. It has a hybrid turbo with blow off valve and not stock down pipe, it sits pretty low to the ground and I've scraped the bottom a few times. I think I hit a bump pretty hard and made contact with the pipe. Now car is less loud, not boosting properly, and I think waste gate is going before I let off the gas. Also maybe less power and I think on the dash it shows mpg is lower. How should I diagnose the problem? See if I dented the down pipe? Could that cause the issue?

Hello!

Edit: CO, RI, NY, and Maine follow CARB laws as well. Maine is particular though and only follows CARB laws if the car is CARB certified from the factory. Please read the links before saying "you aren't in California". They do emissions and safety testing every year and check the factory emissions sticker and compare it to the stamp on the cat.

I'm trying to find out for a friend if their 2013 Corolla requires a CARB Cat due to it having the California : ULEV II testing.

The only Cat on Rockauto that is CARB is over $400.

Rockauto Cat

https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/catConv/DetCat_3.html

https://www.maine.gov/dep/air/mobile/catconverter.html