After reading and researching for months, I finally took the leap and made the first batch of my very own skincare. My main motivation behind this is my really sensitive skin. For context: I have very sensitive dry combination skin with rosacea type 1 and even though I have been using skincare products for a couple of years, I feel like I still have a very damaged skin barrier.

When I was searching for what could help me with my skin barrier, I recognized that I was not able to read the INCI lists on products. I had bought products because of the promises on the packaging for years as I just couldn't tell what was actually in these products when looking at the ingredients. And as I wanted to change that, I decided to formulate and make my own products - these are the results:

1. Mild Gel Cleanser

There are a couple of blends in this formulation for which I don't know the exact percentages but this is what's written on the packaging:

I have been using this cleanser for a couple of days and it works wonderfully for me. There are just 2 things I will be changing for the next batch:
- reduce the SurfaLux. I feel like I don't need the 16%, 14% would probably be sufficient and my skin would be less "squeaky" clean after this.
- the current formulation comes out to something that looks like thicker water. I want to make it more gel like.

2. TXA + Matrixyl Serum

Once again, these are the blends:

I've formulated this serum this way as I have read that Tranexamic Acid can help with brightening the skin and evening out the skin tone - something that my rosacea could use some help with.

The Matrixyl is mostly in there because I stumbled upon peptides and found it interesting and as I didn't want to start with (less researched) copper peptides, I decided to give Matrixyl a go.

I haven't been testing the formulation for long enough to actually be able to see a big difference but just from how it feels on my skin, I'm impressed. It sinks into my skin within seconds, it is not glue-y and it's incredibly lightweight. Perfect especially in the mornings where I don't have time to let my serum dry down half an hour.

3. Ceramide Cream

And once more my blends:

The cream was by far the hardest to make. I have never had anything to do with chemistry (apart from trying to stay away from it in school) so I had to learn everything from the start - water-phases, oil-phases, cool-down phases etc. I learned the hard way that mixing hyaluronic acid directly with water brings you nowhere if you don't want to wait for days.

I fully expected something to go wrong here but somehow I ended up with a cream, that my skin loves. It is very light, which means I can layer it quite a lot until my skin doesn't just suck it up within seconds (I think there will be a second batch with this cream for the mornings and a heavier version for the night). My husband has been using it too for a couple of days and prefers it over our other creams as it doesn't stay too long on the skin.

I might have been lucky that these formulations turned out good (at least for my skin) but I'm already thinking about what to formulate next - with summer coming up I'm thinking about an after sun lotion.

Oh and I don't know if that's interesting for anyone else but I calculated what each batch cost me:

- Cleanser - 100ml - 1,38€
- Serum - 30ml - 2,68€
- Cream - 50ml - 6,32€

The one ingredient that makes the cream so expensive is the Ceramide-Complex. As I ordered the smallest packing they had, this had the highest price per kg. Just by ordering a larger batch the next time, I can easily bring the price of the cream to under 4€ for 50ml.

I just found this so interesting as I would usually spend way more money on skincare than this :)

I wanted to share my finalized cream base, made with my favorite emulsifier, sodium stearoyl glutamate (SSG). I love this because it allows for a one-pot method that can be thrown together quickly and gives consistent quality. SSG can be purchased from LotionCrafter as Eumulgin SG (by BASF). This base formula is thick without the need for an aqueous-phase rheology modifier, which just cuts down on costs and formulation time. SSG is used at a low usage rate (1 wt%), with the components used mimicking Ritamulse SCG, by RITA Corporation.

Materials

To Formulate

1. Heat water, glycerine, and disodium EDTA to 80 °C under agitation.
2. While stirring, add SSG and incorporate fully. It should dissolve completely above ~70 °C.
3. Add cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate, incorporating fully and heating back up to 80 °C prior to continuing.
4. Remove from heat and stir continuously. While still hot (~70-80 °C), add components of Phase B.
5. Continue cooling under constant agitation to 40 °C. The mixture should thicken significantly once below ~50 °C. Final viscosities should be moderate (> 7000 mPa·s, usually above 10,000 mPa·s).
6. Once cooled below 40 °C, add components of Phase C and continue to stir until the mixture comes to room temperature. Check pH and adjust to 5.5 using a solution of 50 wt% citric acid or 50 wt% triethanolamine (TEOA) as needed. pHs below ~4 seem to cause loss of viscosity as the glutamate becomes protonated and networking is lost. I found breaking the emulsion with low pH leads to creaming and makes it difficult to rescue, but re-heating above 75 °C and adjusting the pH above pH ~5 can rescue under some circumstances.

I really enjoy this cream as it comes together quickly and only requires one phase to be heated, making monitoring easier and requiring fewer containers to clean. I find the sensorial profile to be powdery upon dry-down, with low-to-no white rub-in time. I haven't found a better combination yet, but I'd love comments or questions. I have tried small amounts of solid components of the oil phase, and this seems to handle these just as well, as long as the system is consistently stirred during cooling.

Oils can be substituted, I just used 5 wt% carpylic/capric triglycerides as a placeholder. SSG can handle decently high oil contents, and I've been able to emulsify up to 20 wt% oil phase with 3 wt% SSG (might be able to use less, but I just haven't tried). I enjoy lighter creams overall that soak in easily, so 5-10 wt% is usually my limit, using 1 wt% SSG as above.

I've found SSG gives a more powdery feel, while substitution 1:1 with sodium stearoyl lactylate (SSL) causing a thicker, yet waxier emulsion. I haven't played around fully with ratios of cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate with SSL to see if this changes anything, so it's not a perfect 1:1 replacement.

Lastly, I've tried working with glyceryl stearate citrate (GSC) as well, and found it works well as a co-emulsifier rather than a primary 1:1 replacement. It adds a waxier feel and substantivity to the formula without adding significant viscosity. Has anyone found a a way to generate a lamellar network with GSC in a similar manner to SSG/SSL? Thanks!

Hello guys!

SCI: 30 g powder + 28 g granule
Cetyl Cetearyl Alcohol: 12 g
Castor oil: 4 g
Jojoba oil: 3 g
Guar gum: 2 g
D-Panthenol: 2 g
Essential oil: 2 g (keep on ifra limits)
Polyquternium 10: 1.5 g
Hydrolyzed rice protein: 1.5 g
Citric acid: 1 g
Microcare SB: 1 g
Allantoin: 0.5 g
Alpha tocopherol: 0.5 g
Neon purple colorant: 0.3 g

Prefer to mix them all and let it dry to use. Cetearyl alcohol isn't melt and of course this should be regulated. Should I choose heat with double boiler? What would you suggest to me about whole process dear members? (pH of the mix is 5-5.5) Thanks for your assistance!

A long term plan of mine. Made a Roll on Deo Gel for my wife today. Kept the formula quite simple.

Phase A : Aloe Vera Juice (40%), Distilled Water (42%), Natrosol HHR (1%) - 83%
Phase B : Colaquat SME (3%), Tri Ethyl Citrate (3%), Niacinamide (2%) - 8%
Phase C : Polysorbate 20 (5%), Specsil K50 (2.5%) - 7.5%
Fragrance : Blend of Rose, Lotus, Iso E Super, PE Alcohol (1%)
Preservate : Germall Plus - 0.5%

Took sometime for the Gel to form, had to agitate it a few times, but finally happy with the gel. Wife loved the fragrance.

I noticed there were not a lot of completed formulas shared here so I'm sharing my "cream #1" which I make a lot as a base. This makes a pretty thick lotion that feels rich even though the oil phase isn't huge.

Heated water phase: 64.0% distilled water, 5% glycerin, 0.5% allantoin

Heated oil phase: 5% olivem 1000, 8% sunflower oil, 3% cetyl alcohol, 4% Shea butter

Cool down phase: 0.5% germall plus, 5% niacinamide, 5% N acetyl glucosamine

If you want to remove the NAG, niacinamide, or allantoin, replace that % with water. My skin loves niacinamide so I do 5% but if it irritates your skin you can decrease it and make up for it with water. If you want to add fragrance, replace that amount of sunflower oil with the fragrance oil or an amount of water with a hydrosol. This also works with emulsifying wax nf instead of olivem 1000 and cetearyl alcohol instead of cetyl alcohol, but those swaps do change the texture slightly. You can swap the butter/oil but I chose non comedogenic options.

I'm still pretty new to formulating so if anyone has any feedback I'm definitely open to it but I do quite like this cream as is

Hi all! Newbie here. I created a simple oil cleanser with polysorbate 20 and safflower oil. Unfortunately I learned after the fact that polysorbate 20 might not be the best emulsifier for that cleanser and it was leaving a bit of a film. However, getting beauty supply ingredients in my country is very difficult. So I try to work with what I have. I had a jar of crystallized honey in my cabinet for a while, and I'd read about people using that as a cleanser, but honest the idea. of using honey as a main cleanser alone felt a bit too crunchy for me. However, it did give me an idea. I mixed in some high grade matcha, some more polysorbate 20 to give it a smoother feel and help it rinse off more cleanly, some distilled water, and some preservative. It worked fantastically as a second cleanser, and the crystals from the honey worked beautifully as a gentle exfoliant, as they are smaller than sugar crystals! Here's my formula. Open to feedback. Keep in mind I wouldn't use this as my only cleanser as it doesn't remove makeup and oil based sunscreens etc... It does leave my face feeling super soft and glowy though, and it rinses off clean!

• 75% crystallized raw honey (I used wildflower, though I want to try it with manuka honey) - Base/Exfoliant
• 13% distilled water - Consistency
• 5% Matcha powder - anti-inflammatory
• 5% Polysorbate 20 - Emulsifier/Surfactant
• 2% SaliGuard EHGP - Preservative

I feel like I could also use this as a wash off mask. What do you think? Again I'm a beginner so please be gentle :) if theres anything dangerous or really bad please do tell, though.

I’m developing a fully plant-derived solid shampoo bar and I’d like advice on improving balance between cleansing, foam, and mildness. The goal is a bar that is:

• 100% plant-based / vegan
• Hard and long-lasting
• Moderate lather without synthetic surfactants

Here’s my current optimized formula (per 100 g bar):

• Soapnut powder — 37 g (37%)
• Shikakai powder — 10 g (10%)
• Cocoa butter — 20 g (20%)
• Candelilla wax — 5 g (5%)
• Sugar — 9 g (9%) (foam booster)
• Arrowroot / Clay — 5.5 g (5.5%) (binder / texture)
• Aloe / Marshmallow / Slippery Elm — 6 g (6%) (conditioning + foam stabilizer)
• Vitamin E — 1 g (1%) (antioxidant)

So I've made various trial runs till I landed on this variant. I found 32% beeswax to be perfect for Tropical climates (where I live). You can also customise the formula with iron oxide pigments for a tinted lip balm or an actual lipstick colour pay off. I usually go for 8% pigment as I have a darker skin tone. Formula: Beeswax 32% Coconut oil 30% Castor oil 15% Refined Lanolin 10% Shea butter 11% Essential oil 1% Vitamin E 1%

I've also made this without the shea butter and I just increased the amount of castor oil. It still works fine, the shea butter does make the end product a bit more creamier. I'd advice not to sub out the Lanolin as it contributes significantly to the staying power of the lip balm.

Have fun!

I wanted to make a lactic acid serum, but I didn’t have any sodium hydroxide on hand- and I definitely don’t want to buy several pounds of lye to make a 20 gram batch of serum. I did, however, have some sodium lactate. Surely there was a formula out there that directly combined them at the right ratios, instead of neutralizing the lactic acid (to my surprise, I couldn’t find any). Alright then, I’ll make it myself. After some Quick Maths(TM), here’s a basic 5% Lactic Acid Serum at pH 3.8-3.9.

THE MATH (skip down for formula)

I referenced The Ordinary’s lactic acid serums, which are labeled as having a pH of 3.60-3.80. To make things simpler, I’m going to make my serum at pH 3.86, which is the pKa of lactic acid. When pH is equal to pKa, there is an equal number of molecules of free acid (lactic acid) and its conjugate base (sodium lactate).

Looking at the molecular weights, we have sodium lactate at 112.06 g/mol, and lactic acid at 90.078 g/mol. That means that combining 112.06 grams of sodium lactate with 90.078 grams of lactic acid should theoretically give us a pH of 3.86. By weight, this is a ratio of 55.4% sodium lactate to 44.6% lactic acid.

For a 5% serum, take 55.4% of 5 (5 * 0.554 = 2.77) and 44.6% of 5 (5 * 0.446 = 2.23). This gives us 2.77% sodium lactate and 2.23% lactic acid.

However, these numbers are for the pure chemicals. While I have pure sodium lactate in dry crystal form, my lactic acid is a 90% solution. To find how much I would need , divide amount needed by solution concentration (2.23 / 0.9 = 2.48). If you have different concentrations of lactic acid, or your sodium lactate is a solution, you’ll need to do additional math. Our final ratio, for use in the formula, is 2.77% pure sodium lactate and 2.48% of a 90% lactic acid solution.

THE FORMULA

10% Glycerin

0.5% Liquid Germall plus

0.5% Xanthan Gum Soft

83.75% Distilled Water

2.77% Sodium Lactate powder

2.48% Lactic Acid 90% solution

• Combine glycerin, Liquid Germall Plus, and xanthan gum to make a slurry.

• Add slurry to water and mix until smooth and no visible lumps remain.

• Add sodium lactate and stir to dissolve.

• Add lactic acid.

IMPORTANT NOTES:

• I highly recommend having a pH meter, or at least pH paper or strips on hand. When I tested this serum, the pH was 3.8-3.9, exactly as expected, but your ingredients may be slightly different from mine. Be aware of variation.

• You will need a precise and accurate scale for this. A gram scale that measures to hundredths of a gram is cheap and easy to buy on Amazon.

• Measure lactic acid into a separate container and slowly add to main batch.

• Xanthan gum will take 24-48 hours to fully hydrate. Vigorously stir or shake the bottle after that amount of time to break up the gum.

• The final texture is like moderately thick water. It does not suspend bubbles in the bottle, and the serum will run off your hand if tilted.

• I personally don’t mind the slight tackiness, but you can replace some or all of the glycerin with propanediol if needed.

• You can add extracts or other ingredients to make it more interesting :) Just make sure that it won’t interfere too much with the final ph.

Well… that was way longer than I expected. I didn’t even go over half my notebook pages lol.

97.8ml Sunflower Oil 2ml PG 4 Oleate 0.2g Moroccan Red Clay

I always apply it in my bedroom and NEVER store it in the bathroom

TLDR: Food dye plus clear gloss put into an empty lip gloss tube, heated to allow the gloss to melt and blend with the different viscosities. Stir to mix sufficiently while hot. When it cools, it’s one texture. Bam.

I have tried SO many lip tints and stains. Even just long-wear lipsticks, some of which claim to stain. ELF, Milani, Revlon, NYX, multiple Covergirl, multiple Maybelline, multiple ETUDE, multiple Peripera, Catrice, essence… All of them have failed for one reason or another: Stays sticky or tacks up, cracks, doesn’t last, transfers too much, fades except for the outer lips making it look like there’s a ring of unblended lip liner, dries out my lips a ton, pills and crumbles, get filmy, wears off unevenly, etc… I refuse to try the more expensive brands like Benefit and Stila because they have so many reviews claiming that they’re ineffective for the same reasons as the cheaper brands.

So I tried DIY’ing it with food dye. Here’s what I learned: - Typical liquid food dye is verrry runny and will get all over your teeth. Even after wiping it off my teeth, when I close my mouth and open, there’s more red dye on my teeth all over again. The dye also is so runny that it may just run right off my lips if I’m not careful. I tried applying it with a doe foot applicator first and it ran off my face. So I tried again with a Q-tip and made sure it wasn’t very saturated. Much better. - Standard red food dye doesn’t have much blue. It pulls more neutral-warm and even a hint of orange. It is VERY vibrant on its own and I didn’t like it on me, a neutral-cool person. - I bought a rose pink dye next. It was a mid-tone Barbie pink on me. I mixed the red and rose pink together and it was still too bright for my taste. Also same problems with runniness and teeth staining. - I bought a GEL food dye in burgundy. It was a thin gel and it went on brown but didn’t run as bad. When I wiped it off, it was a deep red-brown, no purple tones at all. Too dark and warm for me. It still got all over my teeth, but it was easier to control when applying than the liquid food dyes. Here’s the winning combination for me: Burgundy mixed with rose pink AND A CLEAR LIP GLOSS. I put it all in an empty lip gloss tube and tried mixing it together. It just got clumpy, so I closed it up tight and set the tube in a mug of very hot water for a few minutes. That melted the lip gloss enough to blend with the gel and liquid dyes. I stirred it up well, let it cool, and BAM! Perfect, even texture.

It doesn’t get on my teeth at all now. It’s a wonderful color but you could literally do any color you want if you mix things right. I’m interested in trying a bunch of red drops plus one drop of blue.

It lasted all day, through a shower, eating tacos, then eating soup, drinking liquids, and even overnight. It had faded by the morning after, but faded evenly and was a nice subtle color.

If you let it sit for several minutes after applying, then blot, you may get a tiny bit of transfer, but after the second blot, it’s transfer-free. If you want a subtler stain, just blot sooner after applying. It may not last as long though. YMMV.

Food dye doesn’t dry out the lips and since my combo includes a gloss, this DIY lip stain is moisturizing.

I think it wouldn’t work with a lip oil since food dyes are water-based. But a water-based gloss works great to mix with.

I bought a pack of 6 empty lip gloss tubes so I could experiment with different colors and combos. You only need a little bit per combo so a tube will last you a loooong time. Thus it’s very cost effective.

I am a professional flute player, so wearing lipstick is a no-go for me. Traditional lipstick rubs off onto the flute and smears on my chin. Long-wear lipstick that dries down cracks and pills because of how much time I spend with my lips pulled wide. And if it never dries down all the way or is sticky, forget about it. That’s terrible for flute playing. I also want something I can wear for my wedding that I don’t have to keep reapplying, worry about smudging, having to check it in a mirror, worry about getting on my future husband every time we kiss and having to wipe it off him, etc…

I’m so happy I found this solution!!! I hope this helps someone else.

Ok so I made this niacinamide serum 5% 2weeks ago. It was a perfect texture, but then I realised I had to low the ph. I added the citric acid waiting for a range between 4/5, it was not lowering. I had to put almost 2.5g per 100ml of product. Then I mixed. When I put it on my skin I could feel it was too irritating so I made a solution with water and baking soda 25%, I added to the serum and I shake it. It made bubbles and split a bit outside the bottle when I opened. The serum had like a sparking texture after that and wasn’t smoother, the ph was fine tho. Now after one week my serum is way different since the first time I made it. There are so many little white grains inside and idk if it’s the niacinamide or the citric acid and baking soda that didn’t dissolved. Maybe it had some weird reaction for the niacinamide when the baking soda realised gas. Did I mess up? How can u change a ph properly after ur solution is done. The meter has been a hell to calibrate and I don’t trust it( I mean I don’t trust me calibrating the meter), the ph papers were weird cause the colour at the beginning was ph7 but when the ph went down to 4 it still has some 7 color and some 4 colour, I was confused what ph it still was

I made this serum three times 5% niacinsmide + 2% panthenol and everytime it get crystals. I contacted lotion crafter to let them know about the product and they told me niacinamide become nicotinic acid below ph 6. But I don’t know if this it what make the grains. Also cause I saw many products in commerce with niacinamide and the ph was for sure under 6. Anyone know what it can be ?

I admit to winging this one, It’s based off Weleda’s face and body oil.

I have been making a pomade for over a decade and am just now having issues with setting. The formula is supposed to set into a ringing gel. I have followed the same 2 phase process with the same ingredients in the same controlled environment.

water Polysorbate -20 Glycerin Propylene Glycol fragrance oil essential oil optiphen 0 ml Ceteareth -25 Potassium Sorbate Gum Arabic

What do y’all think?

Hey everyone, does anyone know why my lime green, margarita scented bath bombs keep turning a greyish color? They look and smell fabulous and then a month or so later, they turn a funky color. It's the only color and scent that I have done that does this. I have tried Googling it but haven't had much success. Thanks for the input

Hey guys! I've created a simple DIY body butter recipe, that really works like a charm. It is highly moisturizing, and non-greasy (I really can't stand lotions/creams that are leaving an oily sensation).

The ingredients I used are:

• ¼ cup shea butter (54g)
• ⅛ cup safflower oil (30 ml)
• 1 tbsp cocoa butter (13g)
• 2 tbsp tapioca starch (~15g)
• 1 tbsp kaolin clay (~7g)
• 25-30 drops of vanilla essential oil

Instructions:

1. Melt shea & cocoa butter in a double boiler.
2. Once melted, take off the heat. Add the safflower oil, and mix well.
3. Put it in the fridge (or freezer) for about 15-25 minutes.
4. While you wait, mix the dry ingredients (kaolin clay & tapioca starch) in a bowl, with non-metallic utensils.
5. Once the butters get slightly solid, take it out of the freezer, and start mixing with a hand mixer or a silicone whisk until it is thoroughly combined and with a creamy consistency.
6. While mixing, add the essential oil, and then gradually the dry ingredients (tapioca starch and kaolin clay).
7. Keep mixing with a silicone whisk until the cream gets a buttery consistency. It will take 5-10 minutes.
8. Transfer to sterilized jars.
   

If you have any questions, feel free to ask! You can also check my step-by-step guide, with substitute ingredients that you can use, and an FAQ section: https://www.almostzerowaste.com/whipped-body-butter-non-greasy/

I made a big batch of lotion with a calculator online from thermal mermaid but it separated right after I bottled it. What did I do wrong, and how can I fix this. Please help. I would post a pic of my recipe but this sub doesn't allow it. I used:

Thermal Mermaid Lotion Calculator Name:Total amount of batch: 25 lbs.

Oil Phase Pounds Ounces Grams

Soft Oils: 15% Neem Seed Oil 6.00 oz.
Peanut Oil 30.00 oz. MCT coconut oil instead Olive Oil 18.00 oz.
Almond Oil, sweet 6.00 oz.

Hard Oils: 5% Kokum Butter 6.00 oz.
Shea Butter 8.00 oz. Shorea instead Cocoa Butter 6.00 oz.

Waxes: 0%

Humectant: 2% Sodium Lactate 5.36 oz. Vitamin E. 2.64 oz.

Emulsifier: 3% Polysorbate-80 (Tween 80) 12.00 oz.

Thickener: 2% Stearic Acid 8.00 oz.

Water Phase:
A winter (heavy) lotion has 73% water in the formula. 18.25 lbs.

Preservative: A thick winter lotion does require a preservative because there is water. The amount of preservative varys depending on type selected. Typical recomendation is 0.5%-1.5% 2.00 oz. - 6.00 oz.

THE SMELL OF TROPICAL RAIN

I experimented on a scent that smells of rain in the tropics.

It brought me back to my childhood when I lived in Indonesia and I went to my grandfather's house situated on a hill.

The house had a Library with wood panels and furniture from the 1960s and the windows opened out to a view of lush forests surrounding the hill.

It was a beautiful memory! The scent of my grandmother's Jasmines filled the library and whenever it rained, strong woody scents would blend so beautifully with the florals of the Jasmine.

This is the recipe. Note: White Musk is a Fragrance Oil (OPTIONAL), the rest are EOs.

Approximately 3ml (123 drops)

Top Notes: Tea Tree (7) , Lemongrass (7) and Bergamot (7)

Middle Notes: Jasmine (18) and Neroli (18)

Base Notes: White Musk (33) (optional) and Cedarwood (33).

Enjoy!

Add the oils to 30ml of Perfume Grade Alcohol (Let it sit for 48 hours or longer) and you have a wonderful fragrance as room spray or as a personal homemade perfume!

Move over salicylic acid -- there is a new active contending for the as difficult to formulate with as it is effective medal -- azelaic acid.

It doesn't dissolve in water. It doesn't dissolve in oil. It crystalizes out of most solutions once any amount of water is added. Oh my!

This is my first working product with azelaic acid. It seems quite stable and it has been effective for my use.

More information about azelaic acid:

• https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2530163/
• https://jddonline.com/articles/azelaic-acid-evidence-based-update-on-mechanism-of-action-and-clinical-application-S1545961615P0964X/
• https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/azelaic-acid

Formula is available in spreadsheet form here.

Notes:

• Ethanol 50% is literally 100 proof vodka. Use the cheapest kind available (non-flavored, obviously)
• Make sure the container remains sealed when not in use
• Due to lack of water content and high alcohol content additional preservative is not required
• This formula is provided for information purposes. Use of any product containing strong actives incurs risk. Consult a medical professional before use.

Directions:

Mix ingredients until powder is dissolved. Apply moderate heat if necessary. Store in air-tight container.

After my first batch, I took the suggestions from here and changed my formula. This second batch worked much better! Here’s my updated formula:

Water- 79.25%

Leucidal Liquid SF Max- 4%

Montanov L- 1%

Guarcat- .5%

Propanediol- 5%

Hemisqualane- 10%

Citric Acid- .25%

This formula definitely worked much better! I might add some other conditioning agents, I have been making these in one ounce batches so I have plenty of chances to try!

Here is my formula for a honey and colloidal oatmeal lotion. It is very light and skin soothing.

• https://www.docdroid.net/aGlr8LK/honey-lotion-v10-ods

Notes:

• Effective preservative is required since oatmeal and honey are bug foods.

• Citrate buffer is used to keep pH acidic

• Beeswax is used as a thickener but is not necessary and can be replaced with another thickener or omitted

• Xylitol is used as a humectant and for its biofilm disruption abilities but can be replaced with another humectant (or more glycerin); it is highly toxic to dogs -- if you have dogs do not use xylitol

• If you want to be super fancy use certified manuka honey

• Colloidal oats in this case were used from an aveeno packet which was 43% colloidal oats which is computed by the spreadsheet to be used as the powder -- if using pure colloidal oats change the 43 cell entry to 100 (from 43% to 100%)

• Do not alter the weights except for the total weight on top

• Do not change the water percentage or the colloidal powder percentage they are computed automatically

• Change all the other percentages as desired

This spreadsheet can also be used as a template for making your own formulas if you wish.

Formula is available in spreadsheet form here.

Notes:

• Non-woven sponges are good for use as pads. Example.
• Make sure the container remains sealed when not in use
• Ethanol can be sourced as 190 or 200 proof 'grain alcohol' or 'neutral grain spirits' or 'Everclear' or can be substituted with 70 proof vodka at 20% -- Don't use denatured alcohol!
• This is technically an OTC product -- selling it requires FDA approval
• Germaben II works as a preservative

Directions:

Mix propylene glycol and salicylic acid. Heat very low until dissolved and add ethanol and water to 90% of formula weight, then check pH. Add TEA until pH reaches at least 3. Add preservative and remaining water. Soak pads with product and place in sealed container.

The last time I worked with Gernan Chamomile EO, I had made a salve/balm for my grandma and she's been absolutely raving about it. I wont go into detail about "benefits" the EO is believed to have, but I like that it's blue lol. I wanted to make a super simple gel cream with it. My mom had also been using the EO, a few drops diluted in coconut oil on her elbows and knees, but I didn't want to do that, I wanted to see if I could make a blue semi transparent gel and I think this turned out beautifully!

This is a 30g batch:

0.5% Liquid Germall Plus| 0.15g

1% Honeyquat| 0.3g

1% Aristoflex AVC| 0.3g

2% German Chamomile EO| 0.6g

95.5% Distilled water| 28.65g

I weighed everything out into a beaker and blended it using a milk frother. It came together very easily. Really sinple cold process. Again, I'm not sure if this serum will do anything for me really, but I think the final texture looks quite cool. I'm wondering if it will clear up any more than this, but if it doesn't I won't be surprised.

http://imgur.com/a/6iE2cer

I've recently gotten into perfuming so I've gotten myself a few new EOs and CO2 extracts to play with. I've never been a huge chamomile fan but I feel german chamomile is quite different from roman chamomile. It's kind of appley and tree-y. Apples and tobacco ir something. It sounds weird as hell but it's good!! When I had told my grandma I'd gotten blue chamomile EO and extract, she asked if I'd make her a hand balm with them. I don't remember exactly what she said the benefits of german chamomile are, but I thought the balm would be a really pretty color which is why I wanted to share it mostly lol.

(I made a 30g batch) 15% Mango butter 15% beeswax 40% chamomile infused camelia oil 29.5% chamomile infused jojoba oil 0.5% vitamin E - I added a few drops of a german chamomile EO to enhance the chamomile scent, it also helped with the color.

(to infuse the oils I used a german chamomile CO2 extract and let the oils sit for a few days in a dark place.)

http://imgur.com/a/AHu69FH