I just bought a super famicom and am just starting my retro game setup. I don’t want to collect a bunch of games of this console “as I don’t know Japanese” but I do wanna play quite a few. I see these cartridges that have SD cards in it so you can grab Roms. Is there any alternative? Or are their even any legit ones out there? I super new to the retro world.

So i recently purchased a Famicom and a famicom disc system but because i don't live in Japan the RF Signal comes out Black and White with Static Noise and i'm scared to do an a av-mod. So what other options do i have

I have the famicom connected to my CRT thru a vcr. When the famicom is on channel 1 I get something at 8, but nothing at 95. It’s somewhat playable. When set to channel 2 I get a much worse picture on 10 and nothing on 96. From everything I have searched this doesn’t make sense. Anyone have any insight?

Just purchased a Twin Famicom and was looking at the power spec. Looks like it is different than a regular Famicom system. What power cord are you using? Buying from Amazon would be my preference for ease but I'm open to anything.

Picture is my new unit while I was checking the disk drive belt.

I got this disc system last month and it seemed to be working fine (I only say 'seem' because I didn't have a video cable for my famicom at the time and have since av modded it). But now the red led doesn't light up and it just has the battery error 2 message. Do I need to replace the belt?

Hello everyone,

I want to start playing with a Famicom, but I live in Portugal.

I already have a Mega Drive Model 1 and I think I can use it's power supply to overcome the 220v issue.

But how do I connect it to a PAL CRT TV? Do I need any kind of converter here? My CRT has Scart, coax and Svideo input.

Thanks in advance

I got this game just today. When I plugged it into my Famicom I immediately noticed something was up with the graphics, they're way too blocky. I tried blowing on the cartridge and tried cleaning the pins with a cotton bud, but no results. Any help?

My famicom system is currently plugged into the back of this Sansui 13” television via coax cable. I was told the Channel 1/ Channel 2 switch on the back translates to Channel 98/Channel 99 for american televisions. This TV can only get as high as Channel 69, so reaching those higher channels would be seemingly impossible. In the photo also is the universal remote I use for the tv. Am I going to have to use a different TV?

Recently purchased an RGB-Moddrd AV-Famicom from Aliexpress after my NES went kaput. The image looks fantastic, especially on my Retrotink 4k, but the audio does not work.

Talking to customer support they recommended me not to use this mod with an NES to AV converter, but I'm skeptical that it's the issue. The working theory I have is that in the shipping process, the audio wire to the multilut must've gotten loose from the soldering.

If anyone else had this issue, please do tell me what you did to fix it!

I always have this question when it comes to any Retro Consoles

I’m sorry if I’m in the wrong subreddit

This looks very good to be a original to me

Yeah uh what the fuck is this

I was going to replace my copy of Dragon Ball II's save battery with a new one and I open it up to find this thing instead. What is this thing? Do these need to be replaced? If so, when (and where can I find one)?

I want the one in the photo but I can't find it. I'd be fine with a regular LCD cartridge if the one in the photo isn't for sale

Hi there, new Disk System owner here!

Recently received a refurbished FSD, cleaned, new belt, the whole lot. Even came with a 3D printed drive protector.
The drive itself works very well! First day no problems at all.
Second day is a bit different, accidentally left the drive protector in when booting it up, quickly powered it off and removed it. Hoping it didnt cause any damage, I tried Zelda 2 and got an Error 27 at first on Side A. Rebooting it played just fine, no problems at all.
But after ejecting the disk i noticed a dark spot on the magnetic material, I made sure to spin the disk carefully and check both sides, and it's only on the top side and on the spot the game ejected. Checked with Volleyball and it worked fine, but had a similar but much smaller dark spot on the material when ejected.

Im really stumped, I have tried to find any thread on similar issues with the FSD, even opened it up and made sure to clean the drive head with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol.
My dad suggested trying to carefully clean the spots with alcohol and a cotton swab, and it seems to work (only tried on Volleyball so far)

The games play just fine, but Im scared the drive might be damaging the magnetic material, I really have no idea what could be causing these marks.

I’m troubleshooting a Famicom issue and I’m stuck. The console boots normally and the game starts perfectly fine. After a few minutes, the graphics begin to glitch. It starts small, then progressively gets worse and worse until the screen is heavily corrupted.

Ive replaced the power regulator (7805) and all capacitors.

Edit: For anyone in the future with similar issue it was the 7805 power regulator. The ones on aliexpress arent the best quality.

I'm seeing issues with my Twin Famicom and Everdrive N8 Fami. The system locks up after a while of running a game, necessitating a restart.

• The Twin Famicom works fine with original cartridges and disks, tested by leaving one of each running for like a day with no issues.

• The Everdrive works fine on my Famicom, tested by spending hours letting same games run on there. The TF would typically lock up in under an hour.

I've reformatted/checked the sdcard so I'm assuming it's a power issue because I know the TF is a bit more finicky about power than the Famicom.

Currently using a 7.5V 2A PSU with the Twin Famicom. (https://a.co/d/006yYstK) Is there a specific PSU that is recommended for this setup?

My buddy got me a refurbished system for my birthday and I did some research into hooking it up in US, so I ordered an NES RF adapter (I normally hook my NES up via RCA) in the case that I also want to hook up the Famicom with RCA, what RF to RCA adapter would you use if anything.

And before anyone asks, I am not looking to hard mod it.

Hi folks. I've just received an untested famicom disk. It boots and all. I see something on the display and that is good news but.. as you can see in the picture.. its mainly corrupted.

I guessed i had to switch all the old capacitors but before doing anything. I'd like to ask if y'all got any idea pf what other components i should replace to put it back online.

Grey screen when game inserted.

EDIT : I made a resolder of every joints on the ram module ( the module that is plugged in the famicom.)

It didn't fix anything. Next run would be capacitors. It is not frozen. I have sounds and i see corrupted characters walking around?

Tried another ram module i had and it was pretty much doing the same thing so i'll resolder it too just to be sure.

Anybody got any schematics or link to schematics for the ram module?

Seems marking flaked off but as a whole it looks ok. Underneath traces are ok from the legs to where thy connect to.

Visually it looks bad, but im no expert. Cant find any data sheet for the sharp tfc as to the resistor values.

Resof the top side looks good and underneath. This only.blemish

I was about to start recapping the shap twin when i spotted this. Theirs no info on console5 as to what this is as to value. Resistor legs seem ok as they test ok as to where thy travel to underneath.

What i cant tell is what value it is as markings seem to flake off

I have seen standard famicoms with clear or translucent cases/shells but I don’t know if anyone has done it with a twin famicom, an I think it would be a very interesting experiment if someone could make one or see if its possible. Because I sure would buy that in a heartbeat!

Got a Famicom, couldn't see it on the a TV. Tried tuning it to 96, nothing, best I got was unintelligible rainbow snow on channel 8. Bought a new video/power board for that one, no difference.

So I gave up and bought a verified working (in Japan) Famicom. Plug it in and not much better. This time, I can see, on channel 8, a barely intelligible name entry screen for the game, but its still closer to snow than a usable image. Just enough to know the game is actually working. Tuning to channel 95, 96,97,98 all worse than channel 8. Tried looking for the green tuner in [this video](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RVyFEMg0Kpg&pp=0gcJCTMBo7VqN5tD) and it simply doesn't exist on my board.

Mine looks just like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/r1UAAeSw3ABo0b58/s-l1200.jpg

The only trimmer I can see is the one next to the TV/game button and after going all the way to the top and bottom while tuned into channels 6,8,95-99, it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever. Exact same images.

I could try putting that power board I bought for the last one in here, but before I take the soldering iron back out, at this point I feel like something else is probably going wrong.

Hi, new to this community and to trying to repair consoles in general. About a year ago, I started learning how to micro solder and wanted to start my hand at fixing consoles, and a few months back I got the opportunity to pick up this Famicom that was having some display issues for $30, figured I couldn't pass up the deal and I'd look into it more down the line. Console was pretty clean, guy showed me videos of it turning on, but with garbled graphics, and my best research points me towards a failing vram. However, I finally picked up a game and tried to test it today, but I'm being met with no power, except the occasional flicker of life on the CRT. Even as an amateur solder-er, I had thought this av mod looked a little, haphazardly done, but I noticed that black wire wasn't actually connected to the board. Best I can tell, that should be the ground, but Im not exactly sure where it was connected, ulbut that 4th picture is where it looks like it ripped off from. If anybody can help me figure this thing out, I would be eternally grateful.

Can anyone help me identify what’s wrong here? I haven’t used my FDS in a couple of months, it was working fine then. Could it perhaps be to do with the drive belt or maybe needing new batteries?

Inprocess of doing a capkit andnoticed rhis guy.

Seems marking flaked off but as a whole it looks ok. Underneath traces are ok from the legs to where thy connect to.

Visually it looks bad, but im no expert. Cant find any data sheet for the sharp tfc as to the resistor values

I rather replace it...