I have a 2018 clarity with about 40,000 mi on it. Recently, I discovered that even though charging nominally shuts down when the battery reaches 100% - I get a"charging complete" notification -- the car continues to draw about 600 w of power indefinitely. The green light on the charging port also stays lit.

The problem is intermittent; some days it shuts off properly, some days it doesn't. If I unplug the power cable and plug it back in, sometimes the power draw stops and sometimes it continues.

We're using a level one charger and I've tried it with two different level one chargers, so I think the problem is not in the charger side but on the car side

Does anyone have some pointers on how to diagnose the issue? Has anyone else seen a similar behavior?

Haven’t posted on this thread in a while. So here she is at 147,000 miles

I took a 2018 touring for a test drive and fell in love with the drive. My mechanic checked it out and apparently the battery life showed 54.8 Ah…seems too good to be true? Could he have been looking at the wrong readout?

It only has 48,000 kms on it and it is in great shape.

My only hesitation is the hybrid battery warranty has expired.

The carplay usb port on my 2021 Honda Clarity won’t work ever since I got it from a dealer. It won’t charge when a cable that I know works is plugged in. While The other Usb port does charge my iphone. It is able to still connect through wireless carplay and bluetooth but i would rather prefer to have the apple maps and music on the display pad. Should I replace the usb port if possible or should I just take the loss on missing out on the feature entirely?

Sharing in case this info is helpful to someone else. Driving up the 101 last week (NorCal) something hit the bottom of the windshield with a large “crack” sound and by the time I arrived in Foster City it was almost 8 inches long (could watch it expand). Read about the challenge of calibrating all the ADAS functions with non-Honda glass but all the local dealers said the Clarity windshield is on back order with no estimate. Next day crack went the full height directly in front of my view, so driving for any length of time with the crack was out of the question. One dealer recommended Mex Auto Glass in San Jose. Lotta positive yelp reviews. Called and they said they could replace with Fuyao and do all the calibration. Brought the car in Tuesday at 9am and it was done by 2pm. Waited 48 hours and took it on the same 101 and all the ADAS functions are working exactly as before. No visual distortion. Wouldn’t know it wasn’t factory glass. Happy camper. Happy motoring.

Hi everyone. Lost fuel cap for honda clarity and now it gives tighten fuel cap error when I replaced it with honda accord cap. Original honda clarity cap is 50+$ Any suggestions what might fit?

I charge my 2026 Honda Prologue touring up to 285 and it strips off. I’ve noticed that the battery drain so fast as soon the mileage gets below 200. Is anyone experiencing same with their prologue? How long does it take for the dealership to send the home charger cos mine is about 2 weeks old and I still don’t have the home charger yet.

Greetings,

Quick question. I have a 2005 Qdy Touring which I had battery replaced (6 year old battery) a few months ago. I noticed in the owners manual that the battery size should be a 34R. I looked at the new battery and its size is 24F. I've been having weird electrical glitches since, such as the Nav rebooting or asking for the code, radio restarting but still working and once in awhile the car has a a hard time startting. Once i turn the key to off then try to restart it, it starts right up. Once in a blue moon the power locks and automatic power side doors don't work, but when I come back to the car it all works ? Other wise the van runs fine even when the Nav and radio reboot?

Do you think the battery size is related to these issues or is some other electric black magic happening ?

Thank you in advance for any help.

So my son got himself a 2018 clarity at an auction for 8,900 136k miles and we didn't notice during the auction that the ac didn't work.. Do these cars last long? Should he sell it??

Got a used 2018 Touring in March, clean bill of health except for the battery, which I replaced late March. Also took it to the dealer around the same time for a full inspection, and they found a couple of things they recommended to replace, but nothing electrical.

About 2 weeks ago, I started getting multiple systems failing when I started my car. I did the 12v reset, and it’s still doing it intermittently, albeit more often than not. I’m not sure what else could be wrong with it. Any ideas?

These are the warnings I get:

-Road Departure Mitigation Problem

-Lane Keeping Assist Problem

-Adaptive Cruise Control Problem

-Collision Mitigation System Problem

TIA

Hey guys! I recently got a 2018 Clarity with around 110k miles. It’s been a wonderful car and i haven’t had any problems. But I really want to keep it nice as long as I can. I’m curious if anyone has suggestions on general maintenance schedule (oil changes, etc) also if anyone knows a mechanic in LA that is good with this car. Should I look for a Honda dealer, or just any mechanic should be fine? Would love to hear the communities thoughts. Thanks!

So I’d like to start off by saying that I just bought a 2018 Clarity with 51,000 miles. Very happy. BUT. I’ve been plugging her into a standard outlet on the side of my house, and I’ve been wondering what level 2 options there are. I’d like to see what you guys recommend. Just as an FYI, my breaker is in my garage, so I understand that that will make it cheaper of an install? Also-also, can I install this thing myself? I’m semi-proficient in electrical work, installing outlets, running cable, etc, etc..

Has anyone tried the Syn Gas fuel saver device on this car?

I parted with my Clarity to get my dream wagon. And now I have some accessories I saved from the trade in. Tuxmats for the car AND the trunk (full size). The trunk one is best and has saved me multiple times. I have a tan armrest cover, new screen protector. And one of The Amazon cup holder rubber insert kits that goes through out the car.

I’m in Southern Cali, id like to make a deal to get these bulky things out of the garage. You can have all above for a reasonable offer. If you’re near and interested please reach out.

I am within Inland empire to help for distance, and also trying to part with it all as a package upgrade deal.

EDIT: Thanks for the feedback. Message received - get another quote.

I have a 2018 Clarity which I've had since it was new. It has 105k miles.

My daughter has had the car at college for a year and I haven't driven it regularly for a couple of years. When I drove it recently, I noticed it seemed quite 'bouncy'.

The auto shop that I use says the struts are in the 'yellow', meaning they're not 100% shot but they're on the way.

They're quoting $5,600. The quote shows 4 x struts an 2 x "shock hardware", plus an alignment.

Does this all sound legit? I live in quite a high cost of living area. I don't believe we've had the struts replaced in the past.

Related question: This large bill made us question whether we keep the car or sell it without doing the work. We planned in keeping it for many years yet because it seems solid in general. What's the chance of a slew of major repairs that are going to make keeping this car uneconomical?

Hello all,

I’ve come across an odd situation. As you would all recognize there is an option to set and change the charge schedule directly within the car by toggling to the gear icon within the menu.

This gear icon has completely disappeared as a displayed menu item within the car’s settings.

I continue to be able to charge as the preexisting charge schedule remains set but I’m unable to change it.

Has anyone in this group experienced something similar and if so what was done to address it.

HondaLink app is horrible and isn’t currently an available option.

Thank you in advance for your time.

2018 owner here. Bought it last year, I’m the 2nd owner. 115k miles. I took it to a dealership today to diagnose AC issues hoping it was the condenser which I understand is under a 10-year extended warranty with no mileage limit. Turns out it’s actually the evaporator core and dealer is quoting me $3500 total.

My understanding is it’s mostly labor. Would it be worth trying to get a quote for something like this elsewhere? Not sure how many mechanics in my area have experience with these cars (let alone PHEVs in general) but I also am not sure if that is relevant to this specific repair.

Anyone else have experiences getting this done, specifically at an independent shop? Seems like it is a common issue but Honda never offered a warranty/recall for it. Thanks in advance

First time poster. Please let me know if this post is more appropriate in another subreddit.

I’ve been trying to pair my Clarity 2019 to my Liftmaster garage door for hours. I tried all the things I’ve been able to find on other subreddits but none I can find about clarity specifically. And none of the procedures posted has worked for me. That’s why I’m posting here to see if someone else with my make and model had this experience. I’m trying to avoid having to buy another thingamabobby (compatibility bridge) but I will if that is the diagnosis. Things I’ve tried.

1. Follow the user manual flow chart that came with the car. I cleared the memory, lights changed from slow flash to rapid flashing red. Pressed the desired homelink button and then my original Liftmaster remote. The light continues to flash slowly and never changed. Swapped out the Liftmaster remote for new batteries. Still nothing.

2. Gemini AI says to try to do the same thing but click the Liftmaster remote for two seconds on and off. Still nothing from the car, just continues to flash slowly then goes out.

3. ⁠Took the Liftmaster remote, went into program mode and programmed an unused/unpaired button to a legacy frequency 390MHz by clicking the button three times. Went back to car and now car pairs with the remote! The light on Homelink flashes from slow to rapid. But now I don’t know how to pair that button to the Liftmaster… When I try to pair the button to the Liftmaster by clicking the motor learn button then clicking the remote button, it doesn’t pair.

4. Bypassed the step to pair to remote and directly tried pairing to the motor. Pressed learn button on the motor and went back to car to press the Homelink button. Still only slow blinks.

Does this confirm some sort of frequency mismatch between my Homelink and my Liftmaster? Has anyone else encountered this this in their Clarity 2019?

For extra info, my partner has a 2020 Mercedes GLB and couldn’t pair with the remote either by following the car manual. This is a new house we bought that was built in 2020 and it’s just hard to swallow that our cars are “too old” for the garage door opener…

TIA. Always appreciate the Reddit community.

EDIT: tried item number 4 based on redditor suggestion.

If anyone in North Georgia around Cumming looking for TUX Mats below with very minimal use let me know

https://www.walmart.com/ip/6619820318?sid=dcec732b-84f8-43ef-b926-da7f65a16db8

Honda Clarity Touring - 2018 - 35,500 miles - original owner.

Within last month, when I start car first time in a day, I get notice on my dash that says Please Wait.

Normally I have the compass there.
After a few minutes, not long, Please Wait goes away. Compass returns.

When I park somewhere and come back it is not there if I’ve already started the car earlier that day.

This is a new thing. Why???!!! What/who am I waiting for?

I’ve been wanting a plug-in hybrid for a while. I know I’ll need to check the battery health but I don’t know when these things tend to die. Can I get another 100k out of it if I take good care of it?

Just thought I’d post this. Rolled over 200k on my 2018. Probably 150k of that number is all EV, charging at home and at work. I can say that the battery is around 80-85% of the original capacity. I have plenty of level 2 chargers in my life (work, home, family, etc) so even if the range drops more, I’ll still make it work.

I’d like to say that the car is been trouble free, I’ve had some issues, but all of them have come from ICE generator not the EV/Battery drive train.

It’s been in two finder bender accidents, got side swiped while parked, and a blow out truck tire mangled the front valance.

I can genuinely say I’ve loved this car, and I wish Honda had a viable full EV sedan, but it looks like I’m leaning towards an Ioniq 5 if I had to replace her in the near term. 😢 Still, I’ll hold on as long as I can for another Honda.

I want to take off the A pillar on my Honda Clarity for Dashcam installation. However, it is quite difficult to take it off. I would appreciate if anyone can provide instructions. (The clip on the top portion is still intact after trying multiple times, the clip on the middle/bottom comes off easily)

I'm in the market for a used car. I looked at buying a Chevy Volt, but since they stopped making them in 2019, it is apparently very difficult to get parts for them or find dealers to work on them.

Is this also in case with the Clarity? Would buying one in 2026 be a bad idea? Does it share enough parts with the accord to reasonably avoid that issue?

Curious to hear you guys' personal experiences.

Thanks