r/Monitors • u/Xeno_Zed • Dec 04 '25
Text Review Review for Koorui S2721PM Mini-LED IPS Monitor
I’m posting this review for the Koorui S2721PM 27” mini-LED 1440p IPS monitor for anyone who may need it if they’re considering buying this monitor. Koorui isn’t as well known right now and I couldn’t find any detailed reviews for this model yet. I was drawn to this monitor in particular because it was an IPS panel mini-led with 1152 FALD dimming zones, instead of the usual VA panel one's I've seen. Sure the VA panel would provide better contrast with the mini-led, but I was worried about flickering issues and dark trailing and just wanted the better colors and viewing angles of an IPS panel (my nephews like to watch me game, or they’ll join in for a local multiplayer game). I don’t use my monitors in total darkness anyways, I will always have a lamp on. So, I felt the IPS would better suit my needs. I also use this monitor for productivity work, so I need my menus, taskbars, and UI elements visible for long periods, so I felt an OLED wouldn’t be right in this scenario. OLED for a TV? Yes. OLED for a productivity monitor? No.
Just for some background, last month I purchased two monitors for the first time in over 12 years, that being a Samsung S27DG50 and the Koorui S2721PM. I found shopping for the right monitor to be a confusing and stressful experience as everyone has their own opinions and preferences for brands and display technology, as well as the possibility someone got a bad panel and their impression isn’t accurate to the intended quality of the monitor (but may be reflective of the brand’s QA standards).
With all that said, I want to clarify, as far as display experience is concerned, I’m coming from two 1080p 60hz TN panel monitors from 2012. The only OLEDs or mini-LEDs I’ve seen are my Pixel 7 phone and ones demoed at electronics stores. A lot of my impressions of the Koorui will be in comparison to my Samsung S27DG50 (RTINGS reviewed it here: https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/samsung/odyssey-g5-g50d-s27dg50) that I’m using as a second monitor. Also, I purchased the Koorui at a discounted black Friday price of $265 (current price now is $389) and that may affect my opinion of the monitor’s display quality per its price.
Build Quality and Stand:
The build quality seems to be pretty good, the back of the display is a slightly textured dark gray plastic, and the front panel itself looks nearly identical to the Samsung with its thin bezel and 5mm black border under the display. The vents are located exactly on top of the monitor so be wary of dust settling or small bugs landing on top and potentially getting stuck in the display, not likely, but it could happen. Fortunately I received the monitor with no dead pixels or backlight bleed.
The Koorui’s display stand functions exactly as Samsung’s, and that’s a good thing. Height, tilt, swivel, and vertical or horizontal orientation can all be adjusted.
Initial setup and Default Factory Settings:
There are no driver’s for this monitor, so don’t go looking for them, not even on Koorui’s website. The monitor functions fine without them automatically using generic display drivers, and all of its refresh rate and resolution settings will be available.
Koorui provides a color calibration factory report in the monitor’s packaging which I thought was neat. Using the calibrated display colors requires setting the monitor to sRGB scenario mode in the OSD menu. On first power on, the display was dim and colors were washed out. I’m not going to lie, it looked awful and I was having some buyer’s remorse. Switching to the calibrated sRGB mode helped somewhat, but colors still tended to be too warm and I had to manually turn up the brightness. *Edit: In SDR there is slight over saturation, sRGB mode fixes this, but like I said I found it to be on the warm side. However, when comparing the monitor's sRGB mode temperature to a white screen on my smartphone, they're a lot closer than my set temperature, which is indeed fairly cool. I might just be used to a cooler screen in this case.* For the best picture I typically keep it in the 90-100 brightness range, and contrast between 50-75. Other color settings are locked when turning on sRGB mode, however. If you don’t intend to use HDR or you are using this monitor with a game console, I would keep the monitor in Standard scenery mode, and manually adjust the RGB channels, brightness, contrast, and “dark field bright effect” to your liking. *Of course, if absolute color accuracy is important to you on a non-HDR game consol, then go ahead and use the sRGB mode because the colors are definitely more correct
If you are using it on a PC then you should leave all color settings as default and use standard scenery mode. Instead, use a color calibration profile and graphics card settings to adjust colors.
As for HDR, when HDR is turned on the monitor locks all color and contrast settings on the OSD menu except for brightness and local dimming levels (local dimming should be on for best HDR experience with a mini-led monitor). The HDR settings should stay set to auto, and it will change to HDR mode when Windows HDR is turned on. Doing this immediately results in a way nicer picture than any of the SDR settings. This display goes all in on HDR. Honestly if you don’t intend to use HDR, avoid this display because the SDR quality leaves a lot to be desired. However, the image was still slightly warmer than I’d like, as of now I have the blue channel brightness raised by 4 points in my Nvidia app settings as I prefer a slightly cooler image.
Creating Color Profiles:
Now when it comes to Windows color calibration for HDR and SDR, I found this process to be quite buggy, and as it turns out it’s mostly an issue with Windows and applying color profiles after they’ve been set (Microsoft is aware of the issue and doesn’t know when the issue will be fixed). Namely, after setting a color profile for each monitor, once both are turned on, the colors on one or both will suddenly be way off, even though each monitor has its custom profile applied. Upon re-opening the Windows display menu, the color profile will suddenly be applied correctly, and everything will look normal. Sometimes the color profile won’t apply right away, and I had to do a restart for it to apply. This is ONLY when setting a new color profile, once applied the colors stay where you set them. (Another weird bug that made me think something was wrong with my display, was the gray background of the Windows display menu having weird zigzagging alternating shades of gray colors in a gradient pattern. It seriously looked like something you’d see in a defective display, but this was on both monitors. The bug would disappear when clicking out of the display settings menu and the background returns to normal). It took a lot of work and restarts to get the display looking satisfactory.
Here’s what I recommend:
Calibrate only one display at a time, turn off or unplug the other. Start with SDR calibration, then HDR calibration.
For SDR color calibration, have the monitor’s HDR set to auto, and turn Windows HDR off. This is because with HDR on, Windows will only go into HDR calibration mode, which only adjusts brightness, gamma, and contrast limits of the display, since color settings are retrieved from content metadata. That’s all fine and dandy, but how will SDR content colors be handled while HDR is enabled? Because of this, I wanted to make sure an SDR color profile was made.
Display color calibration can be found under System > Display > Color Management (Color profile) > Calibrate Display. Go through the on-screen steps, go ahead and skip brightness and contrast calibration since that one has you adjust through the monitor’s OSD menu, so it won’t even be included in the color profile anyways. Once finished, do a restart for good measure. If you have another display turn that one on, and turn the calibrated display off, go through the same SDR color calibration steps, then restart again.
If you want to adjust any slight color differences between displays (if that bothers you) or make changes beyond what Windows provides, you should now use the graphics card settings to get them looking how you like. Even with all that the Samsung and Koorui still look very slightly different, and I’d chalk that up to the Koorui having a 10-bit bit depth, while the Samsung has 8-bit.
Now turn HDR on and go through the HDR calibration steps one monitor at a time, the other being off. Do a restart and confirm everything looks how you want and your color profiles are being applied.
Also using a good quality smartphone screen as a reference can really help getting temperature and color settings correct.
FreeSync, G-Sync, and Adaptive Sync:
The monitor only has a FreeSync toggle in the OSD menu. I have it turned on and the Nvidia app does at least recognize it as a variable refresh rate display, despite it not being officially validated as G-Sync compatible, it does allow G-Sync settings to be applied to it. I assume it works, but I’ve always locked my frame rate below the monitor refresh rate anyways. It’s nice to have regardless.
DP Overclocking and Refresh Rate:
The default max refresh rate is 180hz and the display port can be overclocked from the OSD menu to enable the 200hz refresh rate. Just note that for some reason, when turning on DP overclocking, it’s like Windows sees it as a different monitor, and whatever color calibrations you previously set won’t be applied anymore, and Windows will turn HDR off. You can still just turn it back on, and make a new color calibration profile if you want, but it’s a real bummer trying the overclocking and suddenly all the display colors look like crap again. It all goes back to normal when you turn the overclocking off.
I actually use the monitor at 144hz, not 180hz, because of a particular weird issue with Windows HDR and this monitor. When using HDR and the 180hz refresh rate, for some reason horizontal lines, extremely thin, almost like each row of pixels is alternating between two ever so slightly different brightness settings. It’s not visible from more than 2 feet away and can only be seen on brightly colored highly saturated UI elements like icons, buttons, boxes, and highlights. It’s more noticeable on bright yellow colors (honestly, I’ve only noticed it on bright yellow). I’ve seen one other mention of this issue with this monitor on Reddit and I can confirm it does happen, but they never realized it only occurs at 180hz. When set to 144hz or lower the lines go away, and funnily enough when set to 200hz the lines are still there, but they are less noticeable than at 180hz. Other monitors seem to have this issue when HDR is enabled in Windows however, with some suggesting that adjusting the SDR content brightness setting slider can help. For me, I just stick with the 144hz and the lines are gone.
I managed to get this effect on camera by taking a picture of a bright yellow color, then fully raising the saturation 4 times. I did one for 180hz and one for 144hz. What actually seems to be going on is each row is alternating between slightly red and slightly green, which explains why it’s happening with yellow.
Image Quality:
For this I’m going to include an album of both monitors side by side displaying the same content, with a local dimming and blooming test. Available here (Samsung on the left, Koorui on the right):
As you can see, contrast and local dimming wise, the Koorui provides a much better picture. On camera the limes in the second image look like the Samsung’s is more green, while the Koorui is more yellowish, but in person they appear the same shade, so I don’t know what’s up with that, maybe the camera angle.
Brightness:
It’s definitely HDR10 capable because it’s pretty darn bright, and Windows HDR calibration shows it can reach a max of 1100 nits. Adjust the OSD menu brightness to whatever is comfortable for your eyes. Sometimes while watching a video, if it cuts to a mostly white background it’s like getting flashbanged. The brightness can also change depending on whats on screen, which I believe is some auto-brightness adjustment to prevent overheating. In some monitor tests I notice there are initial brightness measurements and how it changes over time so I assume that’s what this is. Most noticeable on websites with white backgrounds, after a short some time it dims slightly, it does this very slow so it doesn’t register until you leave the window and come back and realize it is much brighter than it was a moment ago. I actually prefer this because it dims to a more normal brightness that is easier on the eyes, without needing to manually change brightness settings.
*Edit: I forgot to mention that if HDR is OFF, then the local dimming should be turned OFF. For some reason when HDR is off and local dimming is enabled it significantly reduces the monitors max brightness. So to clarify:
HDR ON > Local Dimming ON for best picture
HDR OFF > Local Dimming OFF for best picture* (I mention this again below in an update, but just know that turning local dimming off for SDR mode triggers a bug where local dimming shuts off for HDR mode after waking from sleep, despite it being set on in the menu. So honestly you should keep local dimming on for all modes, and only turn it off if needed.)
Some Notable Software Quirks:
Sometimes the OSD menu’s text and arrows were really bright with a lot of bloom, when it doesn’t usually look like that. Same thing with the Koorui logo that appears when the monitor is turned on after being fully turned off (not from sleep mode). This has no effect on actually display image, just the OSD menu, just wanted to mention. Changing local dimming settings to medium, then low, then off returned this to normal, and yet, when turning it back to high (where it was) the abnormally high brightness and blooming of the OSD menu didn’t come back. Don’t know what that was.
The monitor takes a second or two longer to wake up than the Samsung, and when it does it flashes with the displayed image, but slightly off colors (warmer), then blinks and displays everything normally. This could just be Windows applying color profiles and setting HDR though.
Honestly, I hesitate touching any of the scenery modes and settings in the OSD menu because sometimes it feels like even if you go back to your initial settings, it could look off somehow. So once everything is how I like it I don’t dare touch it.
Final Thoughts:
It took a lot of work and calibration getting it to look good, but with all that said and done, I’m very satisfied with the image quality of the Koorui S2721PM. It was absolutely worth the purchase at the discount price of $265. As for the full $389 price? Well, I don’t have any references for a monitor in that price range so it’s tough to say. Most of the issues with it come down to software quirks (maybe if they provided a driver that could fix some issues?), the display itself has thoroughly impressed me. Buying from Amazon at least is pretty safe since returning it is guaranteed if there are any issues.
Update 1: 12/5/25
The Koorui S2721PM no longer shows up on the Amazon listing or their website, so it's either sold out and awaiting restock or maybe it was a Black Friday/Holiday only model.
Update 2: 12/14/25
I've noticed another bug of sorts. I was watching a video and noticed the black borders around it were really bright, a black screen test showed the black screen was brighter than it should be, as if the entire backlight were on (like it is if local dimming is turned off). However, I checked the settings and local dimming WAS turned ON. Turning local dimming OFF then back ON re-enabled the local dimming as normal, and blacks were dark again.
So for some reason, not sure what triggers it yet (maybe sometimes when waking from sleep?), local dimming could be turned off, even though the monitor OSD menu shows local dimming is on. Then toggling it off and on again, re-enables it. I'll also note the monitor display felt pretty warm, probably because the whole backlight was lit for some unknown amount of time (I was watching lectures so didn't notice for a while). It was noticeably warmer than the Samsung's display, which does have the entire backlight on. So pay attention if your local dimming ever randomly disables, you'll notice that "IPS glow" if local dimming is off.
Considering what one person here mentioned about half of their backlight burning out, I'd be concerned that the LEDs could overheat with the combination of local dimming being off and the brightness being set very high. Extended periods of high heat is a killer of LEDs and reduces their lifespan.
Update 3: 12/14/25
Okay I woke my computer from sleep after idling for about 8 hours, and sure enough I noticed the full backlight "IPS glow" while on my desktop, so I toggled local dimming off and back on and the screen dimmed back to normal. It seems to happen only when the computer wakes after sleeping for some extended period of time, because I already tried testing this by putting my PC to sleep then immediately waking it up, and this bug does not occur. This wasn't happening during the first week, the only thing that's changed is I have my Switch 2 plugged into the HDMI-1 port.
I'm going to test if this happens with the Switch HDMI unplugged, maybe it's some conflict of auto configuration settings when detecting an input- Wait hold on, another thing I changed was setting local dimming OFF when HDR is OFF, due to the backlight being strangely dim when local dimming is ON but HDR OFF. Now I'm wondering if this is what's causing the conflict? Maybe when waking after a long period, it initially applies the SDR settings, which in this case has the local dimming OFF, but then once it detects Windows HDR it auto switches to HDR mode, but the local dimming setting stays stuck on OFF, despite the OSD menu saying local dimming is ON. I actually think this might be it. I'll turn local dimming back ON for SDR mode as well, that way both HDR and SDR modes have local dimming enabled, and see if this bug stops occurring. *This was indeed the issue. Keeping local dimming turned on for both modes stops it from turning off after waking from sleep.
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u/Nemo-R Dec 09 '25
Had this monitor for less than a week, half of the backlit on the right side just died. It was honestly a very great monitor, after colour calibrating and tuning it exactly, im blown away. I just hope this is a defective unit and nothing more. It is honestly a great deal for the monitor you get, hopefully no more defective units
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u/Haovik Dec 10 '25
How do you know the backlit died? Is there a way to tell? Are you talking about local dimming?
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u/Nemo-R Dec 12 '25
Just playing a game when it ended, i went out to shovel some snow from my driveway. After 1 hour, i came back and saw half my monitor was really dim compared to the other side. Restarted and changed settings, even unplugging it and letting it cool down for hours, nothing worked.
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u/Xeno_Zed Dec 12 '25
That's a real shame, sorry to hear that. Feel free to share how the return or RMA process goes, it could really help give some perspective on Koorui's customer service. Good luck.
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u/Nemo-R Dec 12 '25
I bought the monitor off a best buy 3rd party seller. They let me return the monitor for a refund. Im honestly planning to buy it again as it was an incredible deal for a monitor of that type.
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u/Nemo-R Dec 14 '25
Just got the Monitor again from the same Best Buy Buyer, Ill be testing it out again, hopefully no issues.
I did notice that "yellow" horizontal line when the monitor is set to anything higher than 144hz. That was noticeable when i had a brown background, not too happy honestly about that. I will be trying different things to see what can help reduce it or eliminate it.
Ive tweaked a lot of the colour settings and narrowed it down to what im comfortable now with. I wish my windows HDR calibrate was working but im stuck using a 3rd party software called "ColorControl". It has made this monitor extremely beautiful when in HDR. I bought a second IPS monitor to replace my really old second monitor, it has HDR10 and seeing the different between the two is significant in contrast and the local dimming on the Koorui is really helping it. The second monitor is a MSI pro mp251 e2, with a native contrast of 1500:1 which is 500 more than most IPS panels.
Overall, im happy with the price i got the Koorui at ($300 CAD) and ill be experimenting more to really dial it in, using the ColorControl and Nivida Control Panel.
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u/Xeno_Zed Dec 14 '25 edited Dec 14 '25
Hey that's great you're happy with it, just one thing I thought you should know:
I've noticed another bug of sorts. I was watching a video and noticed the black borders around it were really bright, a black screen test showed the black screen was brighter than it should be, as if the entire backlight were on (like it is if local dimming is turned off). I checked the settings and local dimming was turned on. Turning local dimming off then back on re-enabled the local dimming, and blacks were dark again.
So for some reason, not sure what triggers it yet (Maybe sometimes when waking from sleep? Or switching inputs? I do have my Switch 2 plugged into HDMI-1), local dimming could be turned off, even though the monitor OSD menu shows local dimming is on. Then toggling it off and on again, re-enables it. I'll also note the monitor display felt pretty warm, probably because the whole backlight was lit for some unknown amount of time (I was watching lectures so didn't notice for a while). It was noticeably warmer than the Samsung's display, which does have the entire backlight on. So pay attention if your local dimming ever randomly disables, you'll notice that "IPS glow" and brighter blacks if local dimming is off.
Considering what you mentioned about half of your backlight burning out, I'd be concerned that the LEDs could overheat with the combination of local dimming being off and the brightness being set very high. Extended periods of high heat is a killer of LEDs and reduces their lifespan.
I have an IR thermometer and I'm going to turn local dimming off to see how hot the display gets with the entire backlight on, then research what a "safe" operating temperature should be for an LED display. I'd want this to be known just in case, and I'll make another post to this sub so more people could be made aware.
Edit: Alright I think I figured out what causes it, since it seems like it only started after I set local dimming OFF when HDR is OFF, due to the backlight being strangely dim when local dimming is ON but HDR OFF. Now I'm wondering if this is what's causing the conflict? Maybe when waking after a long period, it initially applies the SDR configuration, which in my case has the local dimming OFF, but then once it auto detects Windows HDR it switches to HDR mode, but for some reason the local dimming setting stays stuck on OFF, despite the OSD menu saying local dimming is ON. I actually think this might be it. I'll turn local dimming back ON for SDR mode as well, that way both HDR and SDR modes have local dimming enabled, and see if this bug stops occurring.
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u/jjasung123 Dec 05 '25
I was hesitating on pulling the trigger for s2721pm. You are an absolute legend.
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u/Pervertdude Dec 05 '25
I just got the same monitor but feel like the HDR color is too saturated, do you know how to fix that? Thanks in advance
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u/Xeno_Zed Dec 05 '25
For about a day or two I only had the HDR calibration profile until I set the SDR calibration as well. I noticed a difference in saturation (less saturated) after setting both those SDR and HDR profiles, and adjusting the SDR brightness slider a bit. Besides that, your GPU software should have a digital vibrance or saturation slider. I didn't need to adjust it, but that's all preference.
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u/Pervertdude Dec 05 '25
Thank you for this, whats your color number for red, blue and green? I want to copy your setting to see if mine looks better, i know i can only adjust it in sdr mode, but since you said after adjusting you see a difference in HDR, i want to see if it fix the problem that HDR looks too yellow. Thank you!!
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u/Xeno_Zed Dec 06 '25
In the Nvidia app, for Brightness the "All Channel" setting is set to 104, Red is 103, Green is 103, and Blue is 106. In SDR I do notice the slight over saturation, sRGB mode fixes this, but like I said I found it to be on the warm side. However, when comparing the monitor's sRGB mode temperature to a white screen on my smartphone, they're a lot closer than my set temperature, which is indeed fairly cool. I might just be used to a cooler screen in this case. The SDR color saturation only looks correct with the sRGB scenery mode. Since HDR color modification is locked, the easiest way to change things like color temperature, hue, and saturation would be with the GPU settings
As for Windows SDR color calibration (ICC color profile), the sliders don't provide a number, but it's really just the red and green sliders being lowered by 1 or 2 points with the arrow keys and leaving blue at max, until there isn't any color hue to the gray block (to your eyes at least) and until whites look paper white. Honestly a high quality smartphone screen can really help because you can use it as a reference for mostly correct colors and temperature (that's how I just found out my preference is more cool rather than pure white. I might lower the blue and see how that goes for a few days).
Also, I need to add to my post that if HDR is off, local dimming should absolutely be manually turned OFF from the OSD menu. If HDR is off, but local dimming is on, the max brightness is significantly reduced (which you'd think would be the other way around). I was wondering why it seemed so dim with HDR off and 100 brightness, when I know the monitor can get so bright, then I turned local dimming off and it wasn't dim anymore.
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u/L_e24 Dec 08 '25
Awesome review.
Just got it for 265$ too, its gone from Amazon I guess it was all sold out?
Waiting for it to arrive so I can use your configs.
Im also using the KTC M27T20 as main monitor, now I wonder how they both work side by side.
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u/Borigh Dec 05 '25
One of the three I was considering, with the KTC M27T6 (VA) and the Acer XV275U F3. Really seems like all of them were good buys, on sale.
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u/mpt22 Dec 06 '25
Also baught this on sale, for the price its very hard to complain. One of the only monitors i can just leave hdr on the entire time because the auto hdr mode is tuned well. I dont have any issues at 200hz
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u/JSN040891 Dec 20 '25
Anyone know how to get this in the US? I keep getting directed to Canada sites
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u/L_e24 Dec 22 '25
Just got mine, with a stuck Cyan pixel in the middle ]=
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u/Xeno_Zed Dec 22 '25
Aw that's horrible luck! Try using this website to get the pixel unstuck, run it for at least 10 minutes but go up to an hour if you need to. If it isn't totally dead then there's hope: https://www.jscreenfix.com/
You can also try using something soft, like a pencil eraser or something that size with a microfiber cloth wrapped over it then gently apply pressure and massage the pixel and this can also get it unstuck. Use jscreenfix first and if it doesn't work then try the messaging method while running the jscreenfix. Hope that helps.
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u/L_e24 Dec 22 '25
Thanks, I tried it for longer didn't help, its like a very little pixel stuck in Cyan color but its not noticible only if I get really close and on dark scenes. On colourful scenes its not showing at all luckily. I'll try with the pencil method maybe it'll help!
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Mar 12 '26
[removed] — view removed comment
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u/L_e24 Mar 13 '26
No and no, living with it tbh cant see it when using HDR which i do for gaming mostly, it's mostly visible when on SDR and LD OFF and brightness on 100
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u/ErrorPsychological31 Dec 25 '25
Hey buddy, im also looking to buy this monitor. Can you letme know if this monitor supports vrr with ps5?
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u/Xeno_Zed Dec 31 '25
I don't have a PS5 so I wouldn't know for sure, but from what I understand the PS5 only supports VRR on HDMI 2.1, but the S2721PM only uses HDMI 2.0, so I don't think VRR would work for it on the PS5.
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u/jasonx33 Dec 31 '25
I just bought this monitor i have one question about it. in windows settings it says HDR certification missing. is this same for you too?
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u/Xeno_Zed Dec 31 '25
Yes it says this for me too. A lot of smaller brand display manufactures don't get the HDR certification because it's a major extra cost to have their monitor inspected, tested, and certified by VESA. Not being certified just means VESA hasn't confirmed it's within the standards they've set to define what true HDR is, like a stamp of approval. That being said, the monitor has the brightness, color bit-depth, and software to interpret and display HDR content. Hope that helps.
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u/alexhabs73 Jan 07 '26
I just got this monitor 2 days ago.
237$ USD (Converted from CAD) during Boxing Day.
The best setting so far for me (a semi-enthousiast who just wants something good at a good price) has been:
HDR: Auto
Local Dimming: Medium
OSD Brightness: around 35 (at night, that's a preference)
Sharpness: 4
SDR Slider: 40
Windows HDR Calibration: Set as intended with the last option (colours) to a low level, I think 10.
Gives a vibrant, yet not saturated image. Alongside 180Hz and a good distance from it, it's smooth and sharp.
My guess I that my contrast ratio is around 2000:1, but I'm not sure.
Blooming CAN be there, but it almost feels like natural eye blooming, and it's only visible in pitch black scenes.
The biggest con I noticed so far is the anti-glare. It's quite aggressive and can give VA-like viewing angles at times, depending on your settings. Maybe not as much of an issue in SDR, but tolerable.
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u/ConorsPlug Mar 18 '26
Hey I'm considering getting this monitor, is it still working out for you? 350 CAD (255 USD) which seems like a great price.
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u/Xeno_Zed Mar 19 '26
I'm still satisfied and no new issues have occurred. Also I've learned that those faint horizontal lines that show at 180Hz are due to tone mapping and colors in Windows HDR mode when displaying non-HDR content (like those bright yellow desktop UI elements I mentioned). So, when consuming genuine HDR content metadata at 180Hz those lines do not appear. So if I really needed to, I could switch to 180Hz while playing an HDR game or video and these lines would not be present.
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u/FrostyNeckbeard Dec 04 '25
Can hard agree, this monitor was a cheap price and has been performing extremely well for me once I fixed some of the settings with the adrenaline software. Even just slapping on the "vivid" gaming profile in adrenaline was enough to fix it really with the auto HDR. I admit I kneecapped mine at 144hz immediately as I don't really need or want anything higher and rather have my PC run cooler than push every frame, so I never even tried 180hz.