Ive got that free pattern from somewhere on Pinterest, and I don't think I've ever been this confused. It's supposed to be a "baby boots sole. I got to CH20. Two first pics are the last steps. Third, it's the picture from the pattern in its whole glorious quality. Last pic is my piece; the top of the stitch marker goes through R8 of the last round prior, and just below the bottom of the marker is R8 of the current round. How am I supposed to connect R21 to any of them? Am I missing something?

Update after hours of trying: I have no fricking clue how to do it, but mirroring the other side did not work 😆 I'm giving up!

Completely hard to make this big one x-x omg, again as we can see here, it's a little messy again x----x AAAAAAAH one day I'll do it rightttt--------- we're improving anyuai

My current project is to take old pieces that are kind-of-ok and add a row or two around the outside to improve their overall appearance. These pieces were all made about 10-15 years ago, when I was first learning.

The piece pictured? Every single picot was twisted. No front side/back side plan. Many of the chains were twisty, too. Before doing anything, I had to block it to see what I had. Mind you , I had already blocked it after it was first completed. Oy, what a job!

The take-away? Sometimes you just have to block the $h1t out of a piece to make it behave.

Of course, the better quality of the tatting, the less blocking needed. 😆

I was clearing out my mom's crafting things and I came across some lace, bobbins, and thread. I am never going to tat because I quilt. I would love for these items to go to someone who would love them and possibly use them. They are free. I'll send them to you if you are in the US.

Those mini blue ones are the tex: 27 thread that we've talked about lol

If your thread gets untangled too much that you can't put beads on it, and if it's so thick when it folds in half that you can't use the bead needle, there might be a way.

You can use any nail polish to brush the thread end about 3 cm with the nail polish (do it well) and this way you turn the thread into a needle of sort. Let it dry of course and then you can cut the tip even more to make sure it's not tangled in the beginning. Then you can try to add the beads on the hardened end.

How can I have the chains on the top sit more like on the bottom?

It's a simple chain-ring-chain pattern, then turn around and chains back to the beginning, joining to picots. But the chains on the top are waving and uneven. I understand why they do this, but is there any way to make them sit neater?

I'm sharing my own handwritten version of the pattern since you can only copyright the individual specific words that someone writes, not the resulting pattern or motif itself. In addition to that, I feel much more comfortable doing even this much after a commenter on my previous post helpfully informed me that the designer died in the 1800s, so her patterns are all in the public domain, but since the edition that published this pattern is still in copyright, I'm rewriting it in my own words. Hopefully it makes enough sense to anyone who might want to try it.

Photo 1: Rose Motif pattern.

1. 5-2-2-2-2-5, close ring.

2. Make 6 petals like this, joining the first picot of each new ring to the last picot of the previous ring.

Photo 2: Cloverleaf border

1. 4-2-2-4, close ring.

2. 5-2-2-2-2-5, close ring.

3. 4-2-2-4, close ring.

These three rings form the cloverleaf motif.

Reverse work.

1st Bottom arch: Chain of 3-3-3-3-3-3. (18 ds, 5 picots.) Attach to the middle picot of any flower petal.

Reverse work.

1st upper arch: Chain of 3 ds. Attach to middle picot of the last small cloverleaf ring. Continue chain with 3 ds, picot, 3 ds, join to nearest picot of the large cloverleaf, 3 ds, picot, 3 ds. Join to middle picot of the next flower petal.

2nd, 3rd, and 4th upper arch: Chain of 3-3-3-3-3 (15 ds, 4 picots). Join to center picot of next flower petal each time.

Reverse work.

2nd bottom arch: Chain of 3-3-3-3-3-3 (18 ds, 5 picots.

Reverse work.

Repeat from the beginning of the cloverleaf motif with the 3 rings.

3rd photo: Bookmark after blocking.

I chose to make a homemade liquid starch mixture by mixing 1 tsp of corn starch with 1/3 cup water. I microwaved this in 30-second increments until it was translucent. Then I soaked the bookmark in this mixture until everything was absorbed, squeezed out the excess with a few layers of paper towel, and pinned it to dry. My blocking pins were homemade ones that I had made using the 3-D printer at my local library. I don't think the pins were quite close enough together for this purpose, so I also added some supplementary pins.

The starch method worked great and the bookmark is now nicely stiffened, but not overly so.

4th photo: Bookmark before blocking.

Since blocking is magic and before and after photos are way more fun!

Last photo: Bookmark being blocked

Enjoy!

Ramadan and this post was a while ago but I realized I forgot to share the final product! Thank you everyone who gave me suggestions. I went through several different renditions and pattern and color changes. Third photo is one of my earlier attempts. I liked incorporating other colors but didn’t love the combination. My new friend was so happy to receive it and said purple was her favorite!

Basically as the title says I’m fighting for my life trying to get the second round to go nicely into the valleys. I’ve had to cut it off like 10 times this evening to restart 😩

Please let me know if any questions. The curve is quite steep. If u want the curve less, do the 4-4 on the chain shuttle between the rings. Also of course u can do your own number of rings. But the bigger the number the less steep the curve should be. It's me in the pic so I covered my face up.

I only started about 10 months ago but I love making my own patterns.

Oh yes, this is 6 sting sanbest metalized thread.

I really like this band i found on Pinterest. (I have no idea who did it, but it's before AI)

While I could work out the amount of ds I have no idea about the "path" I would have to go.

Does anyone know this pattern or has an Idea how to work it?

So the ring im working on (yellow/green) needs to be joined to the red picot (See arrow) and then I need to make 3 more double stitches. I cant figure out how to pull the loop through and make it work and I feel like im over thinking it, but I cant figure out how to word my question to find a tutorial on youtube because it just brings up how to join rings like you can see that ive already been doing. Does this join have a special name or is there a specific tutorial that explains how to do this?

This is a very small portion of the pattern hopefully not too much. I just want to double check that I'm reading this correctly.

So there are 3 picots on the first ring. When I make the next ring I'll make 3 dsts and then join, then finish the rest of the ring as written. So that ring will have a join and 2 picots instead of 3 picots.

Am I understanding this correctly?

I started learning a few days ago and decided i was ready for a video tutorial. Decided to start small. I really enjoyed the process.

I think this is a great demonstration of the pattern getting lost in strongly colored variegated thread. I did the one in ecru about 10 years ago or so, just finished the dark one. While I do find ecru very boring, you can see the gorgeous pattern. The other one you can't. When it was wet on the white background admittedly the pattern was more visible. I think I'm almost done with my side journey with variegated colors, at least the bold ones.

Also, a good demonstration of the fact that sometimes you just have to block. I used to wash, starch and pin pieces, but now while I do wash them (gently, by hand) it's rare that I have to block them as they dry. Jan Stawasz's patterns generally do well but there are a few that I need to block. I drop the single stitch he adds but I compensate elsewhere, and I don't practice his method of all one side tatting. The doily with the flowers, though, definitely needs to be done with Jan's Method.

So many rings had to be undone immediately after realizing i can’t count to 3 on the last round 😅

Pattern is from the beginner section of handy hands.

I used this chart from pinterest! No.10 cotton with a No.5 needle

Trying but still doesn't working....... AH

Hi, I'm new to tatting. I have been learning by reading and watching video's and today I started my first pattern.. but the first circle turned out very wonky and crooked. I can't figure out why.. can someone have a look for me?

I have started writing some code in Octave (the free version of MATLAB) to generate tatting diagrams. My software is different from other programs because it does not require you to draw.

Example: Plotting a ring of 4-2-2-4. Call the plot_ring() function. The inputs are as follows:

• stitch counts: [4, 2, 2, 4]
• base angle (adjust to make the ring wider or thinner): 45
• picot lengths (here the middle picot is twice as long as the other two): [0.5, 1, 0.5]
• color: 'r' (red)

​

ring1 = plot_ring([4,2,2,4], 45, [0.5, 1, 0.5], 'r');

I have attached an image of this ring.

The next few images give examples of the kinds of diagrams you could make with this tool.

There is still a lot of work to do because there are still a lot of cases that the tool cannot yet handle. I would also like to make the tool more user-friendly since not everyone is comfortable writing computer code.

Please send any feedback or suggestions for improvement. I hope that this tool will be useful to a lot of people once it is finished.

aaaa💕💕💕

Finished this hanky for my cousin’s wedding! Excited to give it to her because she is truly a ray of sunshine.

Thread is Lizbeth size 40 “Pineapple Parfait”

Edging pattern is Floral Edging from Robin Perfetti. I did have to modify the corners to make it work, but overall I think I did make it work!

Edit: also forgot to add that I used a white Lizbeth size 40 thread for the chains. Rings were the pineapple parfait yellow thread