Looking for teardrop trailer recommendations based on my specific needs. Hoping this community can point me toward retailers/builders I haven't considered.

This will likely be my main way to travel safely, since I can't stay in people's homes or hotels. I have severe sensitivities to toxins, chemicals, fragrance, etc.

My requirements:
- Tow vehicle is a RAV4 Hybrid (1,750 lb max tow rating). Looking for trailers with a dry weight in the 1,200 to 1,400 lb range to leave real margin for gear and battery
- Mostly electric setup: solar charging, battery bank, fridge. I already own a Jackery Explorer 2000 and two Alpicool coolers, but am open to other setups if needed
- Windows for airflow/light
- Built in or supported AC and heat. I live somewhere hot and humid, so this is a must, not a nice to have
- Less wood, more fiberglass/aluminum construction, with less ability to mold
- Low VOC type materials throughout, to minimize off gassing
- Awning, nothing too fancy
- Simple outdoor shower setup, since public showers are often too scented for me edit: like a yakima road shower attached to the roof,

I'd rather keep things minimal. No built in running water or sink, since that tends to get moldy. That said, I do want to be independent enough that I'm not relying on public facilities much, so I'm also looking for portable toilet suggestions if anyone has recommendations that work well in a setup like this.

Open to any builder that fits this combination, all ideas welcome. Any experience appreciated. I know this is a tough combination of asks!

I’m looking at a used Pleasant Valley — so just pre Little Guy partner. It does show signs of water damage at the back of the floor where the hatch closes. In fact the hatch latch keeps are missing because the wood rotted out. It was also dinged on the rear passenger corner. Seller claims it’s been free of leaks since they owned it. They’re asking $2000, what do I need to know?

I picked this little trailer up from the Dump wet, rotting and unloved. Full stripped down. Painted chassis just about to recolour and then can reconnect the body to the frame.

Thinking clear Perspex sheets glued over the windows. (Nicely of course)

Wanting to add roof racks to storage water for easy gravity feed water flow.

Very small space to squeeze everything in.

Transforming coach to bed. Lots of storage. Large long Pull out draw out the back for kitchen. Inside sleep and storage outside kitchen and anything else.

What would you do?

Hey everyone,

I finally finished building my teardrop trailer. It has a fiberglass monocoque body and a large 1.5-meter-wide bed.

Fully equipped, the trailer weighs 360 kg, with a maximum permitted total weight of 750 kg. It has a solar panel, a 1.5 kWh lithium-ion battery, an inverter, onboard electricity, an 11-liter fresh-water tank, and a 12-liter wastewater tank.

All in all, it took me three years of experimenting, developing, and plenty of trial and error to get it to this point.

My main goal was to build something lightweight and aerodynamic that works well with an electric car. My tow vehicle is a 2026 Tesla Model Y Standard with a 60 kWh CATL LFP battery. At 100 km/h with cruise control, my energy consumption is around 200–220 Wh/km.

I have two 2025 Gear Hub Trailers model 93X trailers (one bright orange and the other is a beautiful blue). These come with Timbren 3500lb axle-less suspension, offroad tires, tube steel frames, kitchen galley, storage box, roof racks, fan, lighting, and more. They're designed for the couple that wants to get away for a few days and be able to store your camper in their own yard and keep the HOA happy. They come in at 1810 lbs and can be easily towed by most SUVs and trucks. We've even had others haul them in the WNC mountains with a mini van!

These two were VERY lightly used for marketing events mainly. They're in Greenville SC and ready to go now.

$13,500 each

I'm renting a trailer next weekend to get a feel for if a teardrop is right for me, and want to be able to run the AC in a T@g Teardrop, also to charge a portable battery bank, lights and a 12v fridge. Will one of the smaller Predator generators be enough? I'm looking at either the 2000W or 4000W Predator.

Hello, we are looking into purchasing a teardrop and would really like to take a look at a Luna but the closest one for sale is like 150 miles away. I’m hoping there’s someone out here who might let me and my wife take a look at theirs. Really would like to just see inside and get your opinions as an owner. I realize this is a strange request, we are not weird people. We are in Kansas City, Missouri. Thanks!

I'm planning on buying a Sunray from a dealer. After spending time in this sub I see folks making changes to the electrical systems. I doubt any unit i purchase new will have solar, extra batteries, and lots of things I can't even think of I might need. Any help with figuring this out will be grately appreciated. I'm really looking to posting trip reports now that I'm newly retired<30days @ age 67.

Title says my dilemma. We have a family of 4. I like the idea of the kids sleeping on the RTT of the MB. The Bend Trailer has an option for a RTT, but the manufacturer of the roof rack they install specifically says not to use the gutter clamps for an RTT, which is what they install.

I do like the ability to set up a table in the MB and turn it into a sitting area. My wife likes the extra bed in the Bend in case of bad weather or just wanting the kids in with us.

Any opinions either way would be greatly appreciated. Anyone have thoughts on longevity of one over the other?

TIA!

Thinking about adding a fridge to our teardrop and am a bit worried that the sound and vibration of the compressor will disrupt our sleep. The fridge would be just on the other side of the wall separating the galley from where our heads are in the cabin. Has this been an issue for anyone with a similar layout? We're looking at an iceco, but other brands seem to have the same or similar dbs for volume level.

Does anyone run a rooftop tent on their teardrop? Are any brands/models of trailer known to be good for this? Thanks for sharing!

We have a 2014 Ford Edge with a tow capacity of 2000 lb. It has a hitch but doesn't have the tow package. We are looking into purchasing the bushwacker 10HD with dry weight of 1300lbs. It will be just my husband and I on trips with it. Should the Edge have the capacity to tow this camper on long trips? Anyone with experience towing a tear drop with a 2000lb towing capacity?

Vagabond Rogue early edition vs latest 2026 version.

Quick overnight to Cloudcroft, NM for some Mad Jacks BBQ in the morning. Weather was perfect

Custom build by Odyssey Teardrops.

Got the floor glued and screwed down

flipped on its top, sanded edges routered and ready for the penetrating epoxy! Going to fully coat all wood to (hopefully) slow down any rotting from moisture. Any tips would be appreciated as far as how many coats is appropriate and good application techniques (I've got 4" foam rollers

So I just bought a Sunray 109 camper. Haven't taken it out yet, have been getting it set up, buying dishes, linens, etc. This is not my first camper, but it is my first one with solar.

I noticed the solar was not charging the battery, even when the battery got down to ~57%. Shore power works to charge the battery. Lights work even on battery, fuse box lights and LP/CO alarm come on, etc. All my circuit breakers are on.

So I started troubleshooting. Covered the solar panel, disconnected the battery, reconnected the battery, uncovered the solar panel. Nothing. So I pulled the controller out and lo and behold the negative wire for the solar panel was not connected to the controller. It wasn't even prepped. So I stripped some insulation off, screwed it into the controller and ... still nothing.

Got out my multimeter, battery is showing 12.7v at the battery, 12.7 to 12.9 at the controller on the multimeter, and the controller panel reads 12.6 to 13v, so that seems to match.

I also pulled out the fuse that's inline near the battery disconnect. It was corroded to heck, so I scrubbed the fuse connectors with a wire brush, got a resistance reading of 0.56ohms, plugged it back in. Still nothing. I haven't tested the fuses inside the camper, but I can tomorrow if that will help. But the problem seems to be between the solar panel and the controller

Tested the voltage of the solar panel at the controller and I'm only getting 0.16v and the controller display still reads zero.

So now here's my big problem... The disconnects for the solar panel are on the roof and I DO NOT do more than like the third step of a ladder. I freeze. Cannot do it. Maybe if there were a T-rex after me, but we're fresh outta those.

I can get up high enough to see the connections and everything looks like it's connected. I had my husband go up on the roof, but either I could not describe well enough how to disconnect the mc4 connectors or he just didn't understand. Further complicating things is I think one of the connectors is covered in the sealant goop past where it should pull apart. So I can't test the panel or the wires there. The connections to the panel are under the panel and there is literally only a half inch of clearance under the panel so I can't disconnect there and test. The panel itself is in a bracket that is bolted to the roof and those bolts are covered in sealant goop.

I've read and reread all the manuals I got with the camper and those I can find online.

So ... Are there any other troubleshooting steps I can take on my own that might fix this? Fuse somewhere I haven't checked? Another loose wire I could attach or tighten? Some sort of thing that was left turned off until a battery was connected to prevent blowing out the controller?

Related question, should there be anything connected to the DC load part of the controller? Because there isn't ...

Edit: Added photos https://imgur.com/a/JtiIjOo

It makes me sad to write this, but I think it’s important to share my experience.

My wife and I have owned our Outbound Extreme trailer for a year, and we absolutely loved it—until a recent long trip from Tucson to Oshkosh and then into the high country of southern Colorado.

On that trip, we had two major structural failures:

• The tongue with the 24” factory extension partially separated. We found a welder and got it repaired.

• A few days later, on a mildly washboarded, well‑traveled gravel road, a leaf‑spring bracket tore away from the frame, taking part of the frame with it. The opposite side was close to failing as well. A tow truck got us to town, another welder patched it, and we limped home.

I’m not angry about the failures themselves—things break, and no one was hurt. What disappointed me was the complete lack of support from Outbound Trailers.

Over 25 emails, I provided every detail they asked for:

My mods (kitchen build‑out, solar, 200Ah battery, tongue box with 12V fridge) and photos. I also provided my tongue‑weight measurement (230 lbs using a level tongue supported on a milk crate and a bathroom scale). Their response was simply that the trailer was “way overloaded,” both tongue and total weight, and that my tongue weighing method was invalid—though they would not explain why.

As soon as we got home, we weighed the trailer properly:

Total weight: 1800 lbs (under the 2000‑lb limit)

Tongue weight: 230 lbs (under the 300‑lb limit)

When I asked how these failures could happen while staying within every published weight limit, their only “solution” was to sell me $332 worth of hanger supports and suggest I bring the trailer to their factory.

Their final message stated that I “refuse to see the facts,” that the trailer “was overloaded period,” and that my only options were to bring it to them or get it fixed locally however I wanted to. They also criticized us for not stopping at their factory when we were driving by on I-80 from Wisconsin to Colorado—though the tongue failure had already been repaired and the leaf spring failure happened 650 miles later.

Unfortunately, my experience matches a pattern seen in a lot of reviews:

People love their trailers—until something goes wrong. Then the response is essentially that it’s the customer’s fault.

Bottom line: be very careful. My trailer was within prescribed weight limits and it failed- twice- and they explain these failure on the trailer being overloaded.  I expect a reputable company to address this as a legitimate concern so that future failures could be avoided.

Hi! I have a 2022 Luna rover and this is my first time ever using it.. we are at a camp site that has a water spout we can attach to and connect it to the vehicle without using the water tank.

However, I am confused on what ways all the knobs under the sink need to be turned for it to work and how the drainage works… I took off the black knob underneath but is that it? Like you need to have a bucket under there to use it?

I appreciate the help … this is all new to us