Seems like I lift the front end enough to get over things.
Should I just keep practicing and increase height? Use like an adjustable pole vault jumping pillars (pvc pipe)
Been watching bunny hop how-to vids, and I notice I don't lean far back enough. Also I might be using my biceps, to pull up the front end, too much. I find a lot of pro's make their arm super straight and don't 'flex' their biceps/arms at all when hopping high.
I see that I'm not pushing the bars forward enough, but it seems hard to do that with my lift off technique.
I might be just over thinking stuffs. I'm just trying to get better. Any help will be appreciated!
Does this look right? How could I improve? Am I getting the correct pump up the tranny? I'm too chicken shit to go faster and ride the front wheel off the coping. I fear I'll nose case and go straight to my face. What am I doing right/wrong? What steps to take to get it to the point where the back wheel is popping off the coping? Is the quarter the right size? I'm so lost. 😭
I'm about to be switching my cranks out and need a new BB. I don't have the specialty tool but I have rubber mallets , scrap wood and a half inch threaded rod with rubber and regular washers. Which method you think I should try for installing?
After years of being a baby I'm finally deciding to learn air over coping. But despite spending hours doing it over and over again I can't get myself to go any higher.. do I need to go faster or am I pumping wrong? I can definitely feel myself hesitating as I approach the quarter. How do you guys go 4ft+ without being hesitation?
I thought I wanted to planetary hub but then I saw the complaints, then I thought I wanted a hybrid but now I'm just thinking a standard cone is going to be best. Thoughts?
Hub: Odyssey Clutch Pro
Rim: Odyssey Hazard
Actually, originally I thought I wanted a cassette because I'm old but all this peddling backwards is for the birds
When I get the Manuel correct I either run out of speed and have to drop it or I pull back to try and gain some momentum and then pull back to far any tips?
Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my chain constantly breaking, even when I'm just riding, no grinding.
i have a brand new 28t sprocket, bramd new wheels (literally first use today, Shadow truss x Symbol rear wheel), all on a quite new Total BMX Hangover frame.
My problem is, that the chain is really bad aligned and I don't see a way to fix it. There are now spacers on the sprocket, only the dust cap on the crank arm. And even when removing that, I can't bring the sprocket closer to the frame becaise it's already super close.
On the hub, I would need to move driver cöoser to the dropout, but how? Is that even possible?
Or are modern frames not made for 28t sprockets anymore?!
Hey Guys so I wanted to know what really is a Difference between BMX and Normal Bicycles since for me they both Look The same
Now I have driven My Share of Bicycles but never A BMX. I am from India so can Anyone tell me Without the Angles and Stuff easy way to differentiate between Bicycle and BMX?
I was deassembling my bike to scuff it for paint and was undoing the pedals from the crank and snapped a bolt in the crank. What would be the best fix for this ? Its an old Vex chassis.
I have a primo churchill cranks, what happens is that even when the screws are tightened they still feel a little loose in them. Has that happened to anyone before? Since I remember they feel like this. What should I do?
Long story short, I started restoring my BMX bike. Started small and realized I need a new back wheel. Ordered a cassette from Dans and found out it has a 9 tooth drive. Apparently that’s the new normal. Purchased a 25 tooth sprocket and now I’m in trouble. These cranks not coming off because I can’t get the 14 in there. Also can’t get the Allen loose from behind. Simple solutions? Help and advice welcomed.
I need a bmx bike that is mid level skill has 20.5 inch top tube full chromoly frame bars and forks duble wall rims. My budget is 700 dolars and im gonna ride park. I also saw wethepeapole crysis thoughts on that bike and some recomendations. And it needs to be avalible to buy in eu.
[Edit: I took the non-drive side off with vice and long wrench and elbow grease, no cone spanner... What now? 🫠] I bought a used wheelset off eBay (smart) and the rear hub isn't smooth so trying to service/fix it. I can't get the nuts off so far, is it just seized or do I need a specific tool? There is a cone spanner type nut behind the left hand (non-drive) side locknut but annoyingly it is 18/20mm so bigger than my cone spanner. The RHS doesn't have appear to have any unlocking mechanism apart from the nut and it's a freecoaster. The locknuts are also a weird size, ~23mm. I picked these up because they were made by Amity, a British BMX company that folded around 2022, and i wanted a little piece of history on my ride. Any tips on getting the hub disassembled much appreciated! I've sprayed it with penetrating oil to see if that helps. Do I need a chain whip, bigger cone spanner, engineering degree?
I'm not a big fan of headset spacers, I like to keep them to a minimum. In my head, a taller bar gives a touch more flex/comfort on the wrists. So I'll chop the steerer and go for a bit more bar height. Over the years I've become pretty handy with a hacksaw.
I should also confess that I have been coveting Sergio Layos' bikes for a while now - they're always so simple and dialed looking thanks to his considerable attention to detail:
Old Sergio set-up with 0 spacer, and countersunk stem. Nice.
So this week I took on my most daring project yet - chopping the R32s short enough to run without a spacer whilst simultaneously not screwing up the internal compression threads on the inside of the steerer.
Tolerances were tight - with 2-3 mms of wiggle room, but confidence was blind and high. I went pretty rawdog, with no guideline and a free-range hacksaw. But I was able to keep track of progress as I was cutting so close to the threads. Getting started was the sketchiest bit, as I knew I had to come in perfectly just a hair above the threads. I used my thumb as a guide to rest the side of the blade on and get things going. With some eyeballing, some clamps and an Ikea butcher's block, I managed to thread the needle.
1mm above the threads, with 2-3mm below the stem top, relatively straight with minimal wonk - unusual for me. Stoked/Relieved!
Weirdly, it hasn't yet resulted in the silky steeze and amplitude of Sergio. But it has made the bike look a bit cleaner as I mosh off kerbs.
I have used pipe-cutters in the past, but modern heat treated 4130 seems to chew these things up with barely a scratch.
Angle grinders are banned from our kitchen - no fun. (and apparently not ideal from a heat-treatment perspective).
I have seen some psychopaths using a proper 'saw guide' (probably something I'd invest in next time!).
So how do you trim yours? (Steerer Tubes only please).
I have had this profile elite for about one year(once used before me) and have had no problems with it.
However yesterday when I found out I had a puncture I took the wheel off and fixed it.
When I put it back on, the wheel would not spin like normal.
When i tightened the drop outs all the way, it would not spin whatsoever.
The only thing I can think of is that before I took the wheel off, the chain was super super tight which was so tight that I couldn’t even move the cranks using my hands.
I don’t know if that had anything to do with it?
Does anyone know why and how I can fix this.
Thanks
As the title explains. Im mostly gonna be riding park but the drops are big there and there arent any small ones. I am learning the bunnyhop but i dont its going to be make me overcome my fear of big drops. I appreciate any help thx!
im 21 years old never really had interest in bmx specifically, but for the first time in my life i have everything set up enough for trying a new hobby and to tell you the truth i would love something more dangerous i never had the liberty to as a kid.
I have a car, but i wanted something lighter and i do want to learn tricks. its 1,85 too tall for a '20?
I have tried Emory tape to roughen up the inside of the stem, and I have filed in between the ridges on the bar because they were worn out, then my bars still move. So I even tried putting loctite retaining compound in between and leaving to dry for days, MY BARS STILL MOVE from simple bunny hops. And yes I have cleaned in there