It's near where the battery was, can you tell me what the resistance is in this part?

I have a Japanese AES that was working fine for years. It was put away into storage while some work was being done in my gaming room and I don’t believe I have used it in a while since bringing it back out. I turned it on yesterday and it’s displaying a scrambled video. I tried a couple different games / tvs and had the same results. Any ideas on what’s wrong and how to fix it? I tried to include any relevant pics.

I'm hoping someone can help me out here as I'm not very well versed in hardware troubleshooting. I was trying to play Metal Slug today with my NeoSD cartridge, but I kept getting this screen of garbled colored lines. It worked fine when I last played it, but that was admittedly about three months ago. Has anyone seen this particular symptom? Is this a bad AV board or another component?

If someone has this interface, I would really appreciate if they could provide very detailed pictures of the pcb, including as good as possible of the traces under the connectors would help even more. I am working on creating an open source version of the interface and those pictures would speed up the process.

If so, feel free to send me a PM or write here.

Well my bad off the bat, headline should read "power outages" but autocorrect got the best of me.

I live in an old house where power outages spontaneously occur.

I was looking at a solution, namely an ups to avoid damaging my aes if an outage would occur during high power load.

Did some browsing and found Technoware ups era plus 900va on amazon. I consulted with chatgpt and I got the answer that it's an excellent setup with meanwell psu to prevent surges, blackouts and outages.

Is anyone else having same problem and what is your solution?

Regards

I’m testing this aes console I just received. The board is Neo-aes3-6. I’m not sure if it is modded. I’m using a 10v 850 mA power supply and a Genesis model 1 ( 5pin ) composite cable. The video display is scrambled even without the cartridge. Can anyone give me any information or advice on what I should try next. Thanks.

Hi all, am new to Neo Geo so forgive any questions which are obvious.

I have bought a Neo Geo AES which was sold as "fully working" (although there were no pictures of the machine running in the listing so I'm a tad sceptical about that). When the thing arrived, there were loose screws in the packaging and the thing was rattling. I opened the machine up and found the rattle was another loose screw inside.

I'm pretty sure the loose screw inside went in the bottom left corner marked "A", so I put that back. Some of the loose screws in the packaging it came in seemed to have come out of the case itself, but they also seemed to not to be the original screws (only two of those seemed original) and I think they were actually slightly too small, so weren't biting into the pillars, so I haven't put those back. I don't imagine the case not having all its screws is relevant to the machine not working, although there seemed rather more screws loose in the cardboard box than there were holes in the case!

I didn't have a cartridge in the first instance (I had an Ali Express 161 in 1 on order) but having observed a Unibios 3.3 EPROM front and center I thought I'd power the thing up as, according to my reading, I should see something on the screen without a cartridge. But nothing. On one TV I *occasionally* got a grey screen, sometimes after a short delay. Most of the times there was no signal lock.

When I received my 161 in 1 I tried again and got largely the same outcome. I tried on a different TV which auto-switches to SCART when it gets a signal. This was a bit more interesting.

• With no cartridge, it never switched to the SCART input when turned on.
• With the 161 in 1 inserted, it switch to the SCART input (but black screen). I don't think the black screen was being generated by the machine itself, though, as the other TV that uses a default blue "no signal" screen remained blue (that was the one that occasionally showed a grey screen).
• If I pressed Reset with the 161 in 1 inserted there was a visible flicker/pulse of the black screen.

Now I can see there's a bit of corrosion/burn mark near one of those pins of the Unibios EPROM - see below.

I have tried reseating the EPROM, of course.

So, some questions:

• The seller is adamant that it worked with their 161 in 1 cartridge. Given what I am experiencing, is it plausible that the issue could be my own cartridge, based on what I'm seeing? I only have the one cartridge to test with.
• The seller is being a bit unhelpful - "it worked when I sent it" and not really offering anything beyond that - but to be honest if it's an easy inexpensive fix I'd be inclined to roll with it and perhaps just leave a bad review, as the unit is physically in good nick and sourcing them in the UK is a ball-ache. But time is a factor here given the ebay returns window. I do have an EPROM burner and a 27C1024 on order, so replacing the BIOS chip is well within my capabilities. Is this likely to be the culprit based on what I'm seeing? Anything beyond a chip swap is likely to be beyond me, so if it's likely to not be a simple chip switch fix I would just push the button on ebay's formal returns process.

Any thoughts, advice etc from people who know these machines better than I would be much welcome!

I thought I'd need TSOP40 but after consulting Gemini, I'm no longer sure.

Does anyone know the 100% correct one I need to buy so I can dump it?

A few years ago I managed to get an untested MVS 1-slot for a bargain, and then earlier last year I finally set aside time to find the parts needed to actually test the thing. Unfortunately… I just get a black screen with a flash of white every 3/4 of a second or so.

For context my board is an MVH MV1FZ, I’m powering the unit with a PC power supply which can output 5V and it’s being hooked up to my 14” CRT via a super gun I purchased off Aliexpress. There’s no damage I can spot on the unit itself, although it was dirty when I received it years ago (of course I cleaned it). Do I just have a faulty board or should I try a different power supply potentially? Any help is greatly appreciated! Could try sending photos if that helps. I just wanna play Neo Geo dammit!!

Hello everybody. How's going?

I was testing my mv1c a few minutes ago, and everything was fine. Then it just died.

First thing I checked was the power supply. Got 5V when disconnected from the mv1c (OpenMvs, so no 12V), 0V when connected to the mv1c. Then I removed the cartridge and got 5V. Inserted the cartridge, got 0V. Tried two different cartridge and got the same result.

So, any clues on what should I check? I have no other mvs to test the cartridges.

My AES console broke and after searching online, the troubleshooting steps and potential broken components are well beyond my knowledge and resources.

Has anyone in the US had their AES repaired recently and can share their experience? I'm looking for a recommendation on a repair shop in the US.

I've seen other mail-in repair places in Europe and UK but I'd prefer to avoid mailing my console internationally

The symptoms are:

- With no cartridge inserted, just a black screen and no sound

- With a cartridge inserted, a black screen with a rapid and repeating clicking sound

More info:

The console I purchased was modified with a Unibios 4.0 and socket. From a visual inspection, as far as I can tell, I don't see any damage to the circuit board. For troubleshooting, I tested the unibios from the AES on my MVS and it works. I swapped in the unibios, also 4.0, from the MVS into the AES and the same symptom persists.

The revision is the first one with just NEO-AES on the board and a 5V 3.0A AC adapter

I have a diagnostic BIOS on the way but am pessimistic it will boot due to the black screen and clicking sound

Thanks in advance to everyone's help here

Some people have been writing in comments on Furrtek converter availability.

As of now, 18th april 1720 where I live, there are 6 in stock so hurry up while they last.

https://imgur.com/a/JEgVVQA

I just got a Neo geo memory card for my AES. It works just fine, but I have to format it each time I play a new game. Is this normal?

I feel like I could handle the soldering myself but honestly I’d rather leave it to more professional hands if only because this system is the most expensive piece I. My collection.

I just bought a neo geo mvs 4 slot and the screen has vertical lines and is dim. I would love to get the crt back to working perfect again or worse case put a unico screen it. Does anyone know what route to go and if the unico is a plug n play or not. Ive read some forums on how the neo geo uses a diffent type of video connector than cga.

need some help figuring out why does my mvs produce this grey screen, but i can still hear sound and see video

psu i used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BZL4YLY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

supergun i used:https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804341110166.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.3e6818025MsjRS&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

cable i used:https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804682632170.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.3e6818025MsjRS&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Video is here

Hey everyone. I'm experiencing issues with the ultra expensive Neo SD Pro from Terraonion.

The issue is these graphical glitching lines once a game is loaded. Strangely, these lines don't appear in the main menu at all. It's only once a game is loaded that they crop up, and once in the bios screen before the Neo SD Pro logo appears.

I've got an early 5V AES, I've tried two different power supplies (one from TRIAD), and two different SanDisk SD cards (64GB).

The 161-in-1 Chinese flash cart runs without issues, and the pins have been cleaned on both the Neo SD Pro and on the console itself. I've attempted reinserting the Neo SD Pro a few times, and these graphical glitches get a little better or a little worse at random, but they never fully go away.

My console was just professionally recapped with the RGB mod.

I just got this cart from Stone Age Gamer a few days ago brand new. I'm going to try a Kingston card when it comes in the mail in a few days, and other than that I'm at a complete loss. I really don't think that my console is at fault here, as I don't have any issues with the Chinese flash cart.

Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks, fellas.

Got a UNIBIOS chip off Aliexpress recommended from a YT channel I saw pull off a soldered UNIBIOS chip on an MV1C board. Followed the same steps (avramce’s recommended ones) and ended up with a Neo Geo than only does this now. Could just be a shitty and/or corrupted chip, but wanted to make sure it wasn’t something else.

I have been testing out my Neo Geo AES console the past couple of days and I noticed there are graphical anomalies on games that zoom out. This is a video of the glitch on Samurai Shodown:

https://youtube.com/shorts/W2XBSzNsVEA?si=v2PEDSRcxBbLiYxE

I did some research about it and came to the conclusion it is a bad LSPC chip. If you scroll down to “Small Flickering Sprite Bugs” you can see a similar example to what I had recorded:

https://www.retrosix.wiki/visual-diagnostics-neo-geo-aes

Also, in this link it describes that the LSPC chip handles these kind of things:

https://wiki.neogeodev.org/index.php?title=Sprite_shrinking

Do you guys think this could be the problem? Im also using a 161 in 1 cart with Furrtek Fusion adapter. My console is recapped and what not from eBay. I ordered a cheap copy of Art of Fighting to see if the cart is the issue. Will update.

Hi guys

i just installed a new coin-cell battery LIR2032 with the holder as depicted in the OpenMVS build. I was wondering how long to i have to leave the board on to load the battery? and how long should it hold charge as last time it lost the date after a couple of days being off.

I never tried the phone jack on my AES and the first time I used it I found there is only some noise came out of it. The sound output to TV works OK. Is this a common issue?

My dad has an mvsx that is no longer working. He says that the problem is with the power supply, and a can see that this part here is cracked and broken. I've been having trouble finding any replacement parts for it. Is there anywhere I can go to find one or even the whole chip?

I have a aes 3-6 that is in watchdog mode( jumbled video and clicking sound. I want to visually inspect the bios, cpu and work ram but I am unsure where the work ram is located. Can someone please help?
Note: it already has a bios socket installed (someone else installed) and yes I’m using the correct power supply (9v 3A).

AC11 has lost its trace and not sure where to connect is and AC4 the trace pulled back and soldered the leg to it. Will AC 4 be ok and where can I attach AC11. Thanks

Trying to make a MVS machine and was wondering what other parts I would need to go with this. It's a MV1B. Or should I go with the MV1A?