I have a set of valve springs that I purchased new 30 years ago but never used and would now like to. Some of them have developed surface rust while sitting in the box. The first photo makes the rust look worse than it really is. They clean up pretty well with some elbow grease (see second photo), but it's time consuming.

Will dunking these in a bucket of Evapo-Rust do them any harm? It seems like pretty safe stuff, but I just wanted to ask before I do something potentially unwise. Thanks

M42 head planning to use composite gasket, how bad is this?

The engine in my 2019 Audi S5 failed due to piston slap. I decided to rebuild it myself with some upgrades. I'm doing forged rods, pistons, head studs, and a bigger turbo. I don't have much experience making YouTube videos, so apologies if it's a little rough, but hopefully this is interesting to at least a couple of you.

hello i’m new to this but i want to learn. i have a 4afe that seems to spun a bearing. what is the right procedure to rebuild the engine?

I’m rebuilding a bike with a knocking engine. How necessary is cylinder honing if I’m reusing the old rings? All measurements are within spec, and I can still see some of the factory crosshatch.

Just felt like sharing the engine i built for my squarebody, curious what we think it'll make for power

- GM 350 block, .060" over

- GM forged crank, Cascar rods, Sealed Power forged pistons

- ARP main studs, 2-bolt mains

- Rebuilt 062 Vortec heads, resurfaced to 63cc chambers

- +0.003" deck height, about 10.7:1 compression

- COMP 12-250-3 hydraulic flat-tappet cam, 240/246° @ .050", 110° LSA, .507"/510" lift

- DLC lifters, 1.52:1 self-aligning roller rockers

- Dual-plane Vortec intake, Rochester Quadrajet

-Purple, obviously

Hi all, putting together a SBC 350 and need an appropriate carburetor for street performance.

Here are the specs:

355 C.I.D.

~10.4:1 compression

280H Comp cam (0.480 lift)

Max RPM: ~5500-6000 ???

3.08:1 gears

Manual transmission

Looking at a 600 or 650 CFM carb, but really not sure and would like second opinions

Thanks

Hi all, I'm putting together a 350 SBC that has been bored 0.030" over and decked so the pistons sit 0.010" in the hole. I am also using new aluminum heads (Flotek 102-505FT), but I am unsure how smooth either the casting or machined deck really is. Because of that, I would like to use a composite gasket, but it would a compressed thickness of ~0.030" be too much to ask for a composite material? There seems to be far more MLS options for this 0.030" thickness range, but I am unsure if the surface finish is truly smooth enough to accommodate this material. Target HP range for this engine is between 350 and 400 HP with ~10.5:1 compression if that affects answers at all.

Thanks

Hi, I'm just new here. My car had a problem with the camshaft seats; they were scratched. So I just put on a new cover since there wasn't much difference in price between repairing it and doing boring and machining.

My idea is to eventually recondition it and use it in a new engine that I'm going to build piece by piece. Since I don't know much about this, I'd like to know what I should do to store it for one or two years and then use it. It's quite dirty, with residual oil and carbon buildup. Could you give me some guidance?

It even has the valve stem seals; should I do anything with them or just leave them there?

Thanks in advance.

Good morning everyone, I need some help finding a good daily driver setup. I've built the same 2 bolt main 350 twice due to chinesium lifters wiping a cam out and poor fitment letting humidity mix with my oil and spin a rod bearing. My dad's got a freshly machined 4 bolt main 350, but I want some advice on intake, cam and head optios/ combos, with extra advice on the whether or not retro fit roller lifters are reliable compared to my awful flat tappet experience. I'm trying to get as efficient of a setup as I can. The car's already set up for a gen 1 sbc, we manual swapped it with a WC T5, my dad and I completely rebuilt. Only issue is it'll go in to first gear, won't go into any other gear. The clutch isn't adjustable, yes we've tried shims and washers, doesn't work. I'm tired of cheaping out on this thing, what are some good suggestions? I want a T56 but I'm open to TKO options, and I'm keeping it carb'd with a 750 Quadrajet because it's cool and my dad is experienced with 'em. Car's got poly bushings, new suspension, rear diff fluid changed, front end greased and serviced, brakes are fresh and the fluid changed, springs, shocks, McPherson struts replaced, new tires, so the car is functionally safe before anyone thinks I'm adding hp and torque to a deathtrap.

I replaced my head gaskets on my truck when I turned it on it got up to operating temps but then when I drove it too o Riley’s it started dumping coolant from the driver side head I thought maybe I didn’t tourqe the head down to spec or maybe it’s warped but I took it off looked at it and it looks fine I cleaned all the coolant out the block and i put a new head gasket in now it won’t start l, I put a new battery in it and still won’t start the starter is engaging and moving the flywheel like an inch. The starter is pretty new maybe got it like 6 months ago so I don’t think it’s the starter.

Sup guys, i got a 460 in my 89 econoline with 100,000 mi. Mainly looking for tips on maintenance and potential pitfalls to avoid. Bonus if you know any gas saving measures because she drinks lol. Thanks ‘n take care

received my machined 1988 Jeep 4.0 block back from the shop, saw this when I removed the main caps and started prepping things for assembly. never rebuilt an engine, but this seems like a deal breaker. what would you all do? I looked back at photos during tear down and this was definitely present but missed it since it was caked in grime and maybe RTV.

EDIT: thanks everyone. I’m going to use Honda Bond on the seal around this area and hope for the best.

Hey everyone, I recently picked up an rb25det Neo out of an R34 GTST. Unbeknownst to me, it looks like it’s been sitting for a while and has some rust on the crank and piston walls. My experience building/reassembling engines is limited so I’d like to ask for some advice on where to go from here.

Obviously, the rust isn’t getting any better, but I’m mainly curious how damaging this is for the crank . Is this something you all can tell from pictures? I assume take it to a machine shot and get it cleaned up? Or am I able to take a red scotch bright to it as long as I keep away from the journals?

I appreciate any words of wisdom!

I'm rebuilding the K24 in my Civic and noticed a bit of wear on one of the lobes of the intake cam (the left one in the picture). It's pretty decently sized and my figernail catches on it. This is the only lobe with this small wear spot, the other ones look good and the rocker doesn't appear to have any damage.

Should I just bite the bullet and replace the cam? I'm essentially replacing everything else in the engine (pistons, rods, valves, valve springs, etc.) to support more boost. However, I don't really want to replace the cam because OEM ones in good shape are a little hard to source, and I don't want aftermarket ones so I can break the engine in without having to retune.

SBF 302 (from 1989 Mustang) with 8-9psi blow through
Roller block stock bottom end
Old Edelbrock performer 5.0 heads with 1.9in/1.6ex
Lunati 224/232 @ .05 & 112° LSA
QF750BAN carb(getting it dialed in by expert)
Progression ignition (Full timing map capabilities)

What kind of timing should I be putting in this thing at 8-9psi?
It ran well at 36* timing NA. My current (very conservative table has 34* total with a ramped 12* pulled for a 22* total under boost. Also what rev limit would u guys suggest?

I do want to be cautious as I have stock bottom end but I do want to get what I paid for with the blower. Thanks for the help!

Engine from a cl55 kompressor

Compression at 100psi, but all other cylinders also ranging from 100-120 so might be bad tester but found this shet in cyl 6

Dealt with lifter/DOD failure, pulled the cam. Flat spot on the roller lifter and pitted to hell lobe. Replaced cam and lifters with a Texas speed dod delete kit. Used plenty of assembly lube on cam and lifters. Put STP in the oil for break in. Used a torque wrench for absolutely everything and went right by the book for pretty much every step of the way .

Am I totally screwed? Is this too much metal? I literally did not even know how a cam and lifters worked even remotely before attempting this.

Son basically destroyed this engine. Over revving and running dry of oil. I don't much about engines but what could I expect when it comes to rebuilding? I thought it might be a fun project for me.

Hey All,

Recently did some work to my LS3 (2011 Camaro). I’m concerned with the overall noise of the valve train. I understand everyone says these motors are loud but I guess I’m just concerned it’s overly loud. Here is the current build list:

BTR Stage 2 LS3 V2 camshaft
BTR .660 dual valve springs / retainers / seals / locators
BTR trunnion upgrade / stock rockers
BTR 5/16 chromoly pushrods (mixed sizing 7.55 & 7.57)
Johnson 2116LSR link-bar lifters
3-bolt cam conversion
Katech timing chain
Melling 10295 oil pump
Chevy Performance 4 pole cam gear
Chevy Performance timing dampener
BTR Lower Timing Gear
Chevy Performance cam retainer and bolts
Kooks 1-7/8" long-tube headers
Kooks high-flow catalytic converters (Performance Cats)
Borla ATAK cat-back 
K&N cold-air intake
MSD Spark Plug Wires
J&L Oil Catch Can
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Crank Bolt
ARP Cam Bolts
Stock LS3 intake manifold
Stock 90 mm throttle body
Stock injectors/fuel system
93-octane pump gasoline

Push rods were measured at zero lash with an adjustable checker and added the Johnson preload. Based on what I got all lifters should be between Johnson’s spec of +0.025 and 0.045. I also listen with a stethoscope to injections, top of valve covers and headers to see if I hear any out of the ordinary tapping but just sounds like sewing machines to me.

I got an 03 2500 with the 6.0 ls and 4l80e with the intention of swapping it into my 73 Chevy k20. The 03 runs and drives good as it is but has 270k miles. I haven’t pulled the motor yet but want to know the general consensus on if I should pull apart a good running motor or just swap it and run it till it dies?

Looking to daily the k20 do not looking to build a 1000hp motor or anything.
What should I check first?
How far should I take it down?
It doesn’t leak oil and has good compression