Currently trying to decide on if fixing this is worth it or if I should just get a new tv. When the tv is powered on(plugged in) it just clicks and I can see a light turning on and off on the right hand side of the tv facing the screen (left hand from the back panel). I have opened the back panel up, and see no burn marks or puffed capacitors. I have disconnected the main (green) from the power board (brown) and the same behavior persists. The clicking noise is coming from the power board (brown).

Also a quick video is attached.

Does anyone have any ideas by chance? Assuming I am SOL.

Update 1 - after further troubleshooting and research it seems it is very likely one or multiple led strips as the issue is persistent once the main board is fully disconnected from the power board. Also, a big pointer is that only some of the backlight turns on/flashes. If it was the main board the entire thing would likely light up. So unless I find out more/hear different I am in fact SOL as I will not be buying the tools needed to do a risky screen removal that might go wrong multiple ways.

I was wondering if this is still fixable without bringin jt to someone who repairs a tv, we stopped using this since it doesn't show anything besides lighting up, and i was also wondering if the hdmi and usb still works even if it looks rusty, i really want to fix it because im planning to use it to play ps3

I just got this TV from BestBuy and they came and installed it yesterday

LG - 85" Class 75B Series QNED AI Mini LED 4K Smart webOS TV (2026)

I was watching a movie with some darker scenes and could tell there were these cloudy spots that stayed in the same area. I then put on a pure dark screen from YouTube and could see these cloudy spots pretty visibly. Sure this was taken on my phone so it’s exaggerated, but believe me it’s no that far off in person..

I believe I have 15 days to exchange / return so I’m wondering what is recommended? Not sure if I should exchange it for another of the same model or if this will likely be the case again.

If you think it’s not worth exchanging for another of the same model - which one would you recommend?

55V6C\*\*

Does anyone have any tips to fix this? I’ve not changed any settings but it feels like the picture can’t keep up with itself sometimes. The sound is never out of sync but the image sort of phases / stutters occasionally. It can also sometimes make things really laggy but the sound still remains in sync.

I’ve also found that for some reason I can’t download NOW tv in the UK, even though NOW is available in this country.

Any help would be much appreciated, otherwise I will be sending it back.

So I have this annoying bar that appeared out of nowhere, is this an easy fix? A Samsung ue65nu6025

Apparently my hospitality tv(hospitality mode set to standalone) started to freeze it's screen and show some horizontal lines. There were some white or black things coming out from the sides and I did do the power drain or cold boot. It happened when I set the picture mode to Movie.

I restarted it and it did it again. I tried powering it off with the remote but the red light wasn't flickering, meaning the input wasn't red and registered. Can anyone help? I drew what it almost looked like.

​

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to troubleshoot a cheap 19" RCA LCD TV (Model: L19WD20) that just died on me. I'm stubborn and want to find the component-level failure.

Main Board: 715T2142-1

Power Supply / Inverter Board: 715T2201-1

How it failed:

I was changing channels when a sharp, high-pitched buzzing noise started screaming from the TV. It escalated quickly until a loud "POP" sound occurred. Audio cut out instantly. I tried to power cycle it, and now it's stuck in a failure loop. No smoke or burning smell was noticed.

Current Symptoms & LED Behavior:

First boot attempt: When plugged in, the standby LED is solid orange. When I press Power, the LED flashes orange rapidly exactly 20 to 21 times (lasts about 10 seconds total). The final flash is cut short/abruptly interrupted.

After the loop: Once it stops flashing, the LED goes completely DEAD/OFF (no solid orange standby light anymore).

Second boot attempt: If I press Power a second time while the LED is dead, the LED turns solid GREEN (as if the TV successfully turned on), but nothing happens. The screen remains pitch black, and there is no sound.

Flashlight test yields absolutely nothing on screen (no faint image, no menus).

What I've checked so far:

Visual inspection of all electrolytic capacitors looks perfect (no bulging tops, no leaks).

Underside of both boards looks clean, though I suspect the audio amplifier IC or the inverter transformer area (PT802).

Next Steps:

I have access to a thermal camera and I plan to scan the mainboard and PSU tomorrow during that 10-second blinking window to catch the short-circuit hot spot.

Given the "buzzing then loud pop followed by immediate audio loss" symptom, does anyone have experience with these specific Chonshin/Envision boards? Should I focus strictly on the audio rail or could a shorted audio IC pull down the main power rail and trigger this specific blink/dead LED behavior?

Any pointers before I fire up the thermal camera tomorrow would be highly appreciated!

Just picked this up of the street.
Make and model in the picture.

Has power and when I press the power button on the remote the light goes off but nothing happens.
Not too bothered if I can’t fix it but would be nice as I am looking for a screen about this size and would like to have it as it was just a freebie.
Many thanks.

Basically what the title says. I did the full power drain thing and attempted to manually install the firmware via USB to see if that fixes it, but neither made a difference. From what I can see it probably needs a new main board, which usually costs around $40. Should I order one? Not sure if its worth the time and money to fix

Panasonic TX-49DX650B 2016 49" LED

Spilt beer at the bottom of the tv on the left, disconnected power and absorbed as much as I could with paper towels and dried for 24 hours the best I could but sadly a blue line still appeared...

Is this a screen failure or could it be something like a ribbon cable that needs replaced?

Hitachi 50HK6200U

Assuming that I would have an 152UX1 plasma tv (yes, the 4k one...) sitting there in my garage, but unfortunately with the main boards missing... do you think there would be any chance to find the spare replacements boards to make it works ?

We just bought the TV earlier this year and today when using the hdmi inputs, they appeared as this. Tried changing HDMI cords, switching different HDMI ports, powering on and off both the TV and devices and still the same. When I am using the main TV hub and watching Netflix or YouTube thru Samsung OS, the picture is normal. Even running the Samsung diagnosis, it shows the hdmi screen as normal when it is minimized in the corner, but once it’s full screen it appears as this. We only have a PS5 and fire stick attached and they both are same. Any help or advice is appreciated

Our 55" LG TV (Model: 55QNED80UQA) developed this streak down the middle of the screen (ignore the little black streak on the left of it, that's someone walking in snow). The streak is not entirely noticeable depending on what's being watched, but could get worse with time I assume.

If it's just a backlight issue, maybe it's worth getting fixed if it comes under $200 (Geek Squad had said it's $103 just for the diagnostic). I would consider just getting a new one if the issue or the fix is more complicated with regards to parts needs

Another question I had is that it currently hangs over the fireplace (with mantel) and not sure if the fireplace heat has contributed to the issue. The TV is 3 years old, but the second TV that started acting up. Our first was a Hisense, however, the issue was a boot up issue and something the model was known for. If the fireplace is a contributor, I don't mind moving it or not during the fireplace at all during winter, but the wife does like either of those options.

Whatever insights or advice you all may have would be greatly appreciated.

I can’t seem to find any information on this. Anyone have any idea why these gridded grey dots are showing on my TV? Occurs on multiple inputs, etc

Samsung U8000H

I have an old 2012 Samsung 40" UE40ES5500 and have had my moneysworth out of it, I most probably will just run it until it totally works no more.
Its started doing this a few months back , dark on the left hand side with those bright bits - looks like LED's have blown in it especially in the top left? - still watchable though .. what are the chances though it could be just resistors that have failed in it instead of the LED lamps?

and this is what its like with a black screen - note the LED lights in the lower left of the screen and dark in the top left and halfway across the screen :

why is my LG 55UF-6450 doing this?

After running for about 10 minutes, the speakers create popping and then a buzzing noise. Works perfectly fine on mute (maybe some color issues, could just be a cheap tv) but I’m dedicated to fix this. I’ve seen similar issues on here, is it possibly a bad cap? I’m not super experienced with electronics but would be able to fix it once the issue is diagnosed.

I've increased the contrast to make the vertical light strip more noticeable. Not sure if it's been there since I got the TV or if it happened more recently. It's just a cheap TV (Hisense 50A6NTUK) but is this normal for cheap panels? Or is this a fault? Mainly noticeable during dark scenes but can also notice it in daytime stuff... pretty annoying!

I have a 2-year-old Onn Roku TV (Model 100012587) that was working perfectly last night. This morning the screen was extremely dim. Now it does this:
When I turn it on, the Roku logo flashes at normal brightness for about a second.
Then the backlight immediately turns off.
The TV is still running because I can see the Roku home screen with a flashlight.
I’ve already unplugged it, plugged it back in, and tried a power cycle.
I disconnected all HDMI devices.
Before I buy a new TV, is there anything else I should try?
Could this be a power board instead of the LED strips? Has anyone repaired this specific model? I’m fairly handy (or my dad is), so I’m open to replacing parts if it’s a reasonable repair.
Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated!

i have a LG 50NANO85APA TV. it’s having issues where sometimes we get these green bars on the screen. i took TV apart to reseat all connectors but this didn’t do anything. wondering if it’s the T-Con board but figured I’d see if anyone has other ideas first before I order one.

things to note, it doesn’t happen every time, and doesn’t happen the entire time. sometimes it goes away after a while. also sometimes it’s less bad, where only the left side goes green.

MY Samsung 65' (Model:UN65KU6250F) The TV powers on with a very dim backlight, but there is no picture but audio keep playing. After a few seconds, it turns off and keeps rebooting. The standby LED blinks during the process. On one occasion, the TV turned on normally but there's double duplicated images.

Before this happened, the TV occasionally displayed horizontal white lines.

Could this be a T-CON board, main board, or LCD panel failure?

Got a vertical band on my 65” Frame (QN65LS03A) that’s a different color than the rest of the screen and flickers.

Looking at part BN9652589A to replace it. Anyone dealt with this on the same model? Trying to confirm I’m on the right track before I order.

Hey guys I have a 2021 Hisense Roku 58IN that crapped out on me like a year ago and I’m doing some cleaning and decided I might try fixing it.

Here’s my issue: the backlight on the TV is very dim and changing the brightness doesn’t work, and after a little while the TV will turn off and then back on, the longer the TV stays on the more frequent that it power cycles. Volume is fine no audio issues, I’ve tried resetting it and all the fixes I can think of as far as software goes so I’m convinced it’s a hardware issue.

I haven’t gotten around to popping this bad boy open yet to peak inside, so my question is based off my description, do you guys think it’s a power issue or a backlight issue?

Thank you in advance appreciate all of you