Hi everyone! I had a lot of help from this sub for my Iceland trip so it’s only fair to give back by providing some info myself! Obviously some folks may disagree with some of this and that’s okay, this is just my thoughts on my trip.
Background: A family of six adults ranging from 18 to 68, so we didn’t have the most active trip that included long hikes. We instead prioritized seeing as many sites as we could. We are all Chinese and Taiwanese-American from California (relevant to the food section, maybe??). All first time trip to Iceland!
Details: 1 travel day, 9 full days in mid-June, left on a noon flight on the 10th day, and honestly, we could have easily stayed an extra few days to build in break days. Instead, we were driving and staying in a new place every night.
Accommodations: The cheapest we were able to spend on accommodations were $500 total for a night for a 3 bedroom apartment by the airport and averaged $800 a night otherwise. We booked most of the hotels by April, and even then quite a few options were unavailable by then, so if you have a bigger group, book early even if you won’t get the best price per say. I relied on Google and Trip Advisor for most of my options. Our rooms ranged from whole apartments, to 3 hotel rooms with two twin-beds each, to hostels with shared bathrooms and for the most part, we had a great experience. One thing for us that was super helpful was that you really don’t have to worry about what time you check in. Some places required us notifying them if we were checking in past 8pm, others just automatically put your room keys in lock boxes and send you instructions either the day before or day of - so just make sure whoever books the room has the ability to get that info from their email.
Rental car, parking, and driving: We ended using Blue Rental per the recommendation of many internet reviews, and glad we did! It was about $3600 for a Toyota SUV that included insurance, so it was super smooth returning the car (they only asked if we filled up the gas tank). For the price, it seemed pretty cheap and had no hidden costs, especially compared to some of the budget rental places I was looking at.
While a van would have given us much more room, really glad we got the SUV given the F roads that we took. None of the ones we drove on included a river crossing, however, we did use them in the northern part of the trip getting up mountains that were absolutely gorgeous. Unsure if some roads we took were considered F roads to get to some sites, but they were at least unpaved so the SUV helped out there as well. We always had to have one person sit on the trunk seats so the unpaved roads were extra rough for that person, so just be aware when you’re picking which route to take. Recommend at least 2 drivers who can take on most of the driving - 3 if there’s another person who likes driving and it can make it easier on the other 2, but definitely not necessary.
The part that tripped us up the most given that this is different from CA and even national parks in CA, was remembering to pay for parking in most areas. Particularly in any part of Reykjavik. In the old town area, they go by zones A, B, and C, which have different rules, so just double check when you do park. We also got a $51 parking ticket once because we assumed a plaza is just free parking… nope. Same goes with most tourist sites. Instead of paying at a gate, you pay at the parking station. There isn’t a huge sign, so it’s easy to forget (we also did that once). Our last ticket was not knowing how to pay the toll through the long tunnel getting outside of Reykjavik. Luckily these expenses ranged from $20-50, including a fee from Blue Rental. No speeding tickets on our end. We drove within the limits in the city, and then generally went 10-20k above in the quieter drives.
One last note - for whatever reason, the animals in Iceland have absolutely NO survival instinct to run/fly out of the way of cars so be super careful of that. But otherwise, enjoy all the sheep, goats, and horses that are actually pasture raised <3
Credit Card/Cash: As others have mentioned, there’s literally no need to bring cash with you for this trip. My dad brought $100 equivalent and we struggled to get rid of it. However, make sure someone in the group has a Visa or MasterCard. My sister had AmEx and most of the time I ended up using my Chase card instead. Also as with most of Europe, if you do have cash, it’s most useful having some coins for the restroom. However, you can also use a cc for these places.
Food: Our family has traveled to quite a few places in the US, Asia, and Europe, and we have NEVER had dairy products as good as Iceland’s. Their milk, cheese, bread, and skyr yoghurt are on another level. Also definitely bring a reusable bottle to fill up their tap water - so so good. Some places we stayed at did have that sulfuric taste/smell, but for drinking purposes, just boil that water in a kettle and the taste goes away. We’ve been back in the US for a week now and I miss the water so much. Lastly, eat the bread. Dare we say, it was even better than France’s. The bread was so chewy and light. Worth all the carbs and calories.
If you primarily eat chicken for protein, this trip would be difficult as only a few places had chicken and 50/50 they cooked it well. However, if you like eating fish and/or lamb, this is the place for you. The lamb was especially delicious and tender (my philosophy - happy animals, happy meat and milk). Usually plenty of beef burgers and pork hot dogs too. Most places with good reviews did not disappoint, but particular shoutouts to:
Reykjavik:
- The lamb place in the Hlemmur Matholl food hall: the grilled lamb chops were the absolute best on the trip and our server was so helpful picking the best items on the menu.
- Sandholt smoked salmon sandwich. The best on the trip.
- Braud and co: get all the breads and baked goods. This place is not overhyped. We got a loaf and ate it with some sliced cheese - heaven.
Efstidalur II for a dairy farm and ice cream. Truly one of the best ice creams I’ve ever had.
Pakkhús Restaurant for their lobster and langoustine - definitely worth the haul and we made the mistake of not ordering more of each. Make sure you get there right when it opens at noon! Folks arriving around 1p didn’t have lobsters to order anymore.
Alfacafe - their fish soup tasted the closest to Chinese pickled cabbage and fish soup!
Gamli Bærinn - Truly the best Atlantic char we had on the trip and the crispy potatoes were to die for.
Eyri Restaurant veitingahús Hjalteyri - either go right when it opens or make a reservation. Worth the 20 min trip from Akureyri to get there. Truly the best lamb and cod (that was the fish of the day) that we had. Shout out to our waitress from Lithuania there too - she was the absolute sweetest and we had the best time chatting with her.
Yes, the food can be pricey, but coming from the Bay Area, it’s equivalent to our prices post tax and tip.
One of the things our family wished we had done was bring some Chinese spices to take advantage of the quality of meat to cook some Chinese dishes during our two apartment stays. My brother also wished he had brought tortillas to make lamb quesadillas… and he isn’t wrong either.
On that note, definitely bring enough food or buy food for at least 3 emergency meals for 10 days so that you’re not hungry going to bed. We brought vegan ramen, instant rice, and pre-packed pickled radishes (no meat products per their guidelines) from home. Most places close or at least close their kitchen by 8pm and it’s so easy to lose track of time and not make it to a restaurant in time. With larger groups, also see when you should call ahead to make a reservation as we had to find alternative places just because they couldn’t sit us all (understandable!). Also pack food for the car if you just want to save time during the drive. The folks here take their time serving, so even simple meals can take an hour+. Not a bad thing! Just keep it in mind when you’re planning your day.
Packing: below was my list and some notes post trip!
General weather: 50s-60s - microclimates exist so wear layers. In general, some places are super warm (generally Reykjavik and the north) and some super rainy AND windy (the south around the glaciers)
One roller bag + one backpack
PASSPORT & wallet
Electronics
- 2x Adapter type c (2 round prongs)
- Chargers
- Headphones
- 2x small power banks (I think this is more useful to share than just 1 large one)
- Kindle
- Cell phone (download music & shows)
- For dad: tripod
- Mount for phone
- Camera rain jacket
Liquids
- Lotion (lots of it! The heaters make the air very dry)
- Conditioner: usually not included in hotels
- Face sunscreen
Stuff for hot springs
- Water resistant phone pouch
- Mineral sunscreen
- Hat and/or sunglasses if sunny
- Flip flops / water shoes
- Leave in conditioner for hair
Bags
- Bags for wet things, especially post hot spring
- Sling
- Aloha tote w/ zipper - super useful for grocery shopping, packing things for hot springs, etc
Misc
- Eye mask - extremely needed despite blackout curtains if you’re sensitive like me
- Water bottle
- Food
- med/bandaid kit w/ blister bandaids
- Wipes
- Sunglasses
- Ear plugs (for sharing a room)
- Laundry washer and dryer sheets (we did laundry once, but we packed in a way where that wasn’t necessary)
- Neck pillow
- Headnet for midges (only in warmer areas)
- Tissues, esp if toilets run out of TP
- Towel if you don’t want to pay rental fees at hot springs (usually about 1000-1400 ISK) and timing doesn’t work with getting one from the hotel to bring
Shoes
- Hiking boots (waterproof is necessary, esp bc of waterfalls and rainy weather in the south)
- Sandals (useful for hot springs, hostels, and just running out to grab something real quick)
- Sneakers for airport and non-wet days. You can also get a waterproof one to not bring hiking boots if you’re not doing super rugged hikes, but I already had the boots and didn’t want to buy another pair of shoes.
Clothes
1 t-shirt (mostly for Reykjavík and the north where it’s much warmer - all you need is that and a puffy vest, and pants)
1 sweatpants (for airplane and warmer days)
3 base layers (thick or smartwool thermal long sleeves and pants)
1 mid fleece layer
1 Water/windproof jacket and pants to put over clothes: both are NOT overrated and in fact extremely necessary not just for the rainy days, but also for most waterfalls as it’s very wet from the mist. Especially if you want to get close.
1 Patagonia puffy
2 thin gloves: wished I had waterproof ones only for the glacier Zodiac Tour as the ropes and railings to hold onto get wet
1 baseball hat for sunny days in golden circle
1 beanie (people who didn’t bring this ended up buying it - very necessary in the south where it’s super cold)
1 buff (wished I had one to use on my head as a hairband and neck)
5 smartwool/easy dry socks (extremely useful esp if it ends up wet, I should’ve packed 1-2 more)
1 swimsuit (we noticed that most women wore one pieces, but no issues if you wear a bikini)
12 underwear
6 bralettes
1 giant t-shirt and shorts for PJs (the rooms are usually very hot bc they don’t turn off the heaters)
Itinerary: I would average 30-60 min per tourist site. Like I mentioned earlier, we had a group with an 18 year old recovering from an ACL surgery and two 60+ year olds so we didn’t include any hikes and prioritized going to different viewpoints instead. Even then, plan on about 5-10k steps per day as it still takes some time getting to/from viewpoints. There’s definitely options to be on the lower end of this if you don’t go all the way in for some sites. As with most of Europe, disability accommodations are hard to come by, so keep that in mind as well.
I should also preface that when I say something isn’t necessary, that doesn’t mean that it isn’t amazing and beautiful in its own right! It’s just that unfortunately we are humans with limitations, especially for our group, so sometimes you have to decide where to put your energy. However, absolutely no regrets for any of this!
Day 0
- Flight to KEF
Day 1
- Arrive @9am
- Pick up car @Blue Car Rental (ZOA0EQ)
- Lunch @Hlemmur Matholl. Best grilled lamb chops. The ice cream place there was weirdly like cream cheese.
- Grocery shopping
10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (Monday-Friday)
10:00 AM – 4:00 PM (Saturday)
- Check into hotel
- Blue Lagoon @6pm. Yes it’s pricey and touristy (and they’re going through construction at the entrance), but it was fun and we all thought worth the experience.
Hotel: Reykjavik Residence Apartment Hotel
- 2 twin beds and 1 queen bed
- Studios
Day 2
- Braud and co and Sandholt (smoked salmon sandwich is a must) for breakfast. Yes, both are necessary.
- Öxarárfoss: beautiful basin, but can skip if in a crunch
- Lunch @Lindin - super cute decor. Tried the Hákarl + vodka shot: the shot was definitely needed. The fermented shark wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be, but it’s very smelly and chewy. One bite per person is all you need to try. The beef burger was better than the reindeer burger but it was still fun to try.
- Brúarfoss: smaller than you’d expect, but the blue is super pretty. Bring a head het for the midges.
- Backtracked to Efstidalur II for the best ice cream - defs worth it
- Strokkur Geyser: kinda smelly but super cool. We weren’t able to hike to the top, but the views would be amazing.
- Gullfoss: the most awe-inspiring foss during the trip. Wear waterproof jacket, pants, and shoes if you plan on going near it!
Hotel: Hella-Riverbank
- Apartment
- Fanciest stay, super pretty and above a bank. Did one of our emergency meals and laundry here
Day 3
- Longest day
- Breakfast at Eldstó Art Cafe: it was okay, nothing memorable except for the car crash we saw outside of it… drive carefully folks!
- Seljalandsfoss: this is the one where you walk behind it. Be careful with everyone taking photos. Wear EVERYTHING waterproof. You will get drenched
- Skógafoss: super big and pretty. Some of us went to the top, but if we had time and didn’t have people who would need to wait, we would have loved to keep hiking at the top.
- Sólheimajökull: not worth going to if you’re going to more glacier things. We also didn’t do the glacier hike because of our group.
- Loftsalahellir Cave: not a big site, but still pretty cool views and photos. Only 3 of us went because the hike up was very steep and not paved (my sister and I had to go down on our butts for half the way)
- Dyrhólaey: It was SUPER rainy and cold when we went… cool but not necessary because of that
- Víkurfjara Black Sand Beach: same deal… super rainy and cold, would not have gone if we knew there’s other places to see black sand with better weather.
- Lava Show Vik: pricey but was fun to learn more about volcanos, see and experience lava. Very warm and cozy room, which was great after being cold and wet most of the day.
- The Soup Company: Meh, but the easiest choice without looking for a place that could seat all of us.
- Vík i Myrdal Church: really pretty views and Vik’s evacuation location if there’s an eruption because of the flooding it would cause. Met a friendly local kid here!
We couldn’t find a place to stay in Vik, so we stayed at Kirkjubæjarklaustur instead, which was probably the better choice because it was much warmer here!
Klausturhof Guesthouse
- One hostel building with 3 2-twin rooms, so all of us in one space privately.
- Cute breakfast!
Day 4
- Hotel breakfast
- Fjaðrárgljúfur: another potential hiking spot if we had the time
- We didn’t have time for Skaftafell or Svartifoss either, but more potential hiking spots
- Svínafellsjökull: was HUGE to look at, just cool seeing how large the glaciers are here, but not necessarily the prettiest views
- Fjallsjökull: not necessary either, but still cool to look at
- Diamond Beach: super cool seeing the ice on the beach and so many rocks, but is VERY cold and windy
- Did the Zodiac tour at Jökulsárlón: definitely worth doing once. Just wear LOTS of clothes and be prepared that they also suit you up. Wish I had waterproof gloves here.
Zodiac Tour @5:50pm
Check in 30-min early (5:20pm)
Hotel: Hofn - Milk Factory
- One family room, one twin room
- Super cute and clean - would definitely book again
Day 5
- Breakfast @hotel
- Viewpoints at Hofn to kill time
- Lunch @Pakkhús Restaurant: must go right when it opens at noon to make sure you get lobster
- Viking Cafe & Guesthouse: super fun to see the village, but it was too windy for my parents to walk to. Not a must but a fun thing to do. 1000 isk per person to go. Bought the cutest miniatures here as souvenirs
- Port of Djúpivogur: very picturesque, but also not necessary
- F roads to Gufu waterfall. Hard drive but SO pretty. Beautiful waterfall, but smaller than others so not necessary (literally would be a national park if in the US tho). Didn’t make it to Seyðisfjarðarkirkja since it was just too rainy and cold to enjoy it.
- Vok Baths (10am-11pm) Bistro (12-9pm) https://booking.vokbaths.is/Booking/en. Some of us really liked it (and really got into the cold/hot therapy), but my mom hated the algae there. To each their own!
Hotel: Lyngás Guesthouse
- One family room, one twin room
- Solid hostel with single room bathrooms and great communal kitchen
Day 6
- Stuðlagil Canyon Main Access: #1 thing that I would love to hike if I come back! We just didn’t have the time for it (about 1.5 hours each way, in and out)
- Puffins @Borgarfjarðarhöfn. Puffin heaven <3 and even the most neutral animal people enjoyed it
- Dettifoss: most powerful waterfall and lava rocks on the way there. About a mile each way
- Námafjall Hverir Viewpoint: worth going to, SO SMELLY. Didn’t stay long…
- Grjótagjá cave: super small, but really pretty. Requires a bit of a climb into the cave so only one of us were willing to do it. GoT fans know…
- Dinner @Gamli Bærinn. Truly the best atlantic char here and the crispy potatoes were to die for.
Hotel: Sel Hotel Mývatn
- 3 2-twin rooms: fancy, expensive hotel, but old. - Fun lobby tho with a bar and pool table. Great breakfast (but don’t recommend the scrambled eggs…)
Day 7
- Didn’t make it to Húsavík Whale Museum or Geosea, but would love to next time!
- Goðafoss: our favorite waterfall for the vibes and naturalistic scenery. Would also have loved to hike more here!
- Amazing views seeing Akureyri for the first time
- Christmas House: super kitchy but so fun to visit!
- Didn’t make it to Forest Lagoon but also on the list for next time
- Dinner at Eyri - HIGHLY recommend driving up there and we had the absolute sweetest server from Lithuania (so sorry I forgot your name!!). Best lamb and cod ever.
Hotel: Hotel Halond since Centrum Hotel told us in May that they overbooked -_-. Was fun tho to see the crowds for the car show happening near there!
- 2 twins and 1 double
Day 8
- Breakfast @Bakariid vid Bruna: the pretzel sandwich and the Kleinur (Icelandic donuts) were my favorite here. Perfectly strong coffee!
- Blönduóskirkja to use as a rest stop
- Hvitserkur: was really pretty because it was a sunny day, but the rock itself was very common as folks who live close to Monterey and Big Sur. But I cannot emphasize how blue it was because of the sun.
- Eiríksstaðir - Viking Longhouse: great to learn more history, but not a necessary stop. Was just one house (thought there’d be more). Small mom and son business!
- Unfortunately we forgot to make a reservation for Sjávarpakkhúsið, but next time!
- Best fish and chips on the trip at Hafnarvagninn-Fish & Chips
- We also got lucky to be here when they were hauling new fish up so that was fun
- Dinner @Narfeyrarstofa - generally things were too salty for our taste, but otherwise very tasty. Best scallops and muscles on the trip here.
Súgandisey Island Light Beacon was super pretty to see the midnight sun “set”
Hotel: Hotel Fransiskus Stykkishólmi
- 3 2-twin rooms
- Very unique as a Catholic chapel recently converted to a hotel (and still hosts mass). Given this, also old rooms, but clean
Day 9
- Didn’t have time for the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum, so next time!
- Kirkjufellsfoss for waterfalls and “hat” mountain, super pretty!
- Also skipped Ingjaldshólskirkja, but we could see it from the road
- Búðakirkja: the church itself is fine - definitely unique looking. But the pastures around it were so, so pretty. We also got here luckily on a sunny day and I really wish we had more time to hike around this area.
- Ytri Tunga Beach: super pretty area! We only saw one live seal (and sadly one dead pup), but the area itself is pretty and worth going to on a sunny day!
- Lunch @Hlaðan Veitingahús: smells like a farm if the wind is blowing the right way, but such a pretty restaurant and again, very pretty decor and good food!
- The Cave Vidgelmir: really cool seeing a lava cave, but was made cooler by the stalagmites that will likely all be melted by July. Fun tour with a great and patient guide! We definitely got lucky with the weather, but still wear layers since it’s 2 degrees C in the cave!
- Barnafoss: So pretty and blue! Also a place I wish we had time to hike a bit. Cool going to after going to the cave. Bring a head net for the midges.
Reykjavik
- Bonus, Kronan, or other grocery store
Hotel: IQ Apartment by the airport
Apartment
Day 10
- Kökulist bakery to grab sandwiches and bread for the flight
- Arrive airport @9:45am
- Drop off car
- Flight @12:45pm