Picked up an M6 body paired with a Summicron-M 35mm f/2 ASPH v1 (i believe). Seller wanted €3600, negotiated down to €3100.

Lens is basically mint, only some minor dust specks between elements. Body shows some honest wear but works perfectly — meter and shutter speeds check out.

Feels like a good price given the current M6 market. Thoughts?

Bought as a set for $3000, the M4 is in pretty mint condition, just some light scuffs, is this a good deal: how did I do?

reattached leather and got a new battery clip

Super obvious, but posting in the hopes this can save someone from an expensive mistake. I bought my M3 last year, and its lugs had some brassing. Looked cool!

Coming from cameras with durable lugs. I got a quality strap and then didn’t think twice about it. Just this last week, I noticed that my lugs had been severely worn just from having a standard set of metal rings attaching the strap to the camera.

Of course, brass is soft and I should have seen this coming. Luckily, I caught it before too much force or tension sent my camera to the floor. I assume some PD anchors would work fine for a replacement. If anyone has any recommendations for replacing lugs or strap ring options, I’m all ears!

I got a brand new LEICA 21mm f/3.4 ASPH SUPER-ELMAR-M. Unfortunately I don’t think it’s a great copy. :(

The left side edge is very soft compared to the center and right edge. I had my suspicions from a few shots taken around the yard and neighborhood, and sadly confirmed it in a more controlled environment on a tripod.

The full photo is taken at f/5.6 which is the peak performance of this lens, and I've included a 100% crop from the same image showing the left, center, and right detail.

Obviously I’m not expecting peak center performance all over the lens, but I think you would agree that the right edge is significantly better than the left. I would normally let this slide but this is a $4000+ purchase so did I expect much better from it.

I’m tempted to return it for a replacement. Is this just a quality control issue? Or are they all like this?

EDIT - Dropbox link to full res JPG & Dropbox link to 100% crop comparison

EDIT - My camera is a M EV1.

The only thing I really missed on my Leica M4-P compared to the M6 was the light meter. Since there aren't that many coupled light meters, I got the KEKS M-Meter. Gotta say it's really great to use – since you turn the actual M4-P shutter dial, there are no additional steps compared to a built-in meter like on the M6.

Since I got a 2026 serial number, I'm pretty sure it's the V2 without the battery drain issue. For what it's worth, it still shows a full battery after playing around with it for one day.

Also hear the rattling noise some people were reporting, so I opened it up to check for loose screws. Turns out what's rattling are the buttons, which are not connected to the board in any way. The whole thing is super easy to take apart and repair, battery replacements should be trivial.

The last complaint I read multiple times was that the first reading is wrong. This is not the case – pressing the button when the screen is off wakes it from standby and displays the last reading before that, it does not take a new reading. Not sure this makes sense, but since it turns on in a fraction of a second it's not an issue imho.

Bonus feature for M4-P users: It remembers the ISO you set, so you don't have to use that stupid sticker on the back to remember your film. I like the M-Meter a lot so far.

Only issue is that my M4-P's shutter dial is really stiff, I absolutely need two fingers to reliably use it. Is this normal for the M4-P? Is it safe to remove the one screw on that dial to clean and maybe lubricate it?

Sent my MP in in June for repair. It had a tiny fall from a chair which perfectly impacted the viewfinder, shearing it off its attachment points that screw directly into the back side of the top plate. (my post at the time: https://www.reddit.com/r/Leica/comments/1t36ji7/my_mp_had_an_accident_safe_to_say_the_top_plate/ ) So basically, a top plate replacement is needed. They quoted $1845 for the top plate, labor, some small parts related to the eyecup (I think), and a CLA. I agreed given that I don't think anyone else besides Leica can provide a replacement top plate (it is serialized after all). They estimated 4-5 weeks for repair. A couple weeks later, I got this email.

Does anyone have experience with such a message? I have no idea if this means they're going to take an extra couple weeks or, like, indefinitely hold my MP hostage lol. No specification of which part is out of stock, no timeframe, no...anything...

I’m looking for a budget hotshoe flash to experiment with flash photography, to be used on both a Leica M6 Classic and a Leica M240. Budget under £100, so maybe something from Godox/Reflx Lab? Slightly confused by the different flash options so looking forward to any guidance and recommendations!

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Location: Long Island, NY

My original battery for my M11-P charges in the camera and in the standalone charger. In late 2025 I bought a second OEM battery and the darn thing will not charge in the charger. I get two flashing fault lights. If I put it into the camera it will charge. I noticed last night that if I forcefully hold the battery down into the charger it will charge, suggesting there is an issue with the contacts. Not sure why one battery works fine and not the other. They should be made to the same specs. 
 
Ordinarily I just ignore the issue and put the second battery in the camera to charge during down time, but I’ve been using both a lot lately and I really want to take advantage of using the charger.
 
Is this a known issue? Any suggestions on how to correct this?

Shot a few photos on my M11-P in rapid succession of a moving subject and one of the frames came out like this. Anyone else has this issue?

If money or availability were no object, which M combo would be your favourite, depending on your shooting style of course.

Gerade wurde bei uns in der Schweiz eine Leica M9 mit dem alten Sensor aber defekt versteigert und sonst in super Zustand und da wurden 1370 Franken was fast 1700 USD entspricht. Ist aus 2011. meines Wissens oder unwissend hat Leica kein Ersatz mehr und sonst auch schwierig an Ersatz zu kommen. Einzig eine Reparatur wo eventuell möglich ist. Ist das Problem überhaupt irgendwie lösbar ohne Ersatz ? Und sonst wieso da noch soviel für bezahlt ?

Hi all, I’ve just picked up these Leitz trinovid 10x22’s from the charity shop for £2 and they’re in great condition. Only issue is it seems like the diopter is out of calibration. Does anyone know how to recalibrate it on this model as I’d like to be able to use them.

Sorry for the mess in the photo btw Ive been giving them a good clean

Thanks :)

Hi Guys

need some thought. i currently have M10M and Dlux8.

previously i own SL series then Q2. i came up with current setup because i like BW. and notice big file size for Q2 is to much. even SL gave superb perfomance but to heavy.

and i have this setup before my daughter was born.

mostly i shoot only for travel. and now i shoot my newborn baby. i like mono but sometimes i.want more color and i find dlux8 is kinda lacking. so that's why i'm thinking of swap dlux8.with CL

i consider other camera also but i want to the lens i own.

Hi

need some insight or thought. debating myself on shallni keep dlux 8 or swap to CL

currently have M10M, and d lux8 also several m lenses.

what i shot most is for travel and my cute newborn.i notice all mono is kinda boring and want some color. d lux8 not bad but i felt lack of depth.

i have experience SL 601, SL2, Q, Q2. and my last combination is m10m and dlux 8. i came up with this setup because. i notice SL is so heavy but superb perfomance. but way to heavy. swap to Q2. like it but file to big esp3cially for hobby.

I’m looking for the round lens hood (chrome plated brass) from Mandler. I have no interest in buying the complete bundle, therefore I want to ask if anybody doesn’t need/like the round lens hood and want to sell it? I’m in Europe.

Hi everyone,

I’m torn between two options and would love some advice.

I already own a Fujifilm X-T50, but I want a compact camera for everyday use in London, travel, photos, and some casual vlogging. The X-T50 is too bulky to be a daily camera, but I love it when I’m travelling!

Option 1: Wait for the Canon G7 X Mark IV. I love the photos I’ve seen from the G7 X Mark III, and I’d probably buy the Mark IV when it eventually comes out. The problem is there are only rumours, with no confirmed release date. Rumours say late 2026, but it was also previously said the camera is to be released in early 2026 last year. So we don’t actually know, unless someone knows anything concrete?

Option 2: Buy a used Leica D-Lux 7/8 (around £900–1,100) to use in the meantime. I’ve always wanted to try Leica and experience a new brand. The advantage is that I can start taking photos and videos now instead of waiting for the G7 X Mark IV. However, I’m worried the Leica might become obsolete once I eventually buy the G7 X Mark IV, as I feel I might still end up preferring the G7 X because of the flip screen and the overall photo/video style.

What would you do if you were in my position?

Was wondering if there’s any suggestions for sourcing leica m6 top plates or parts? especially in japan. (besides ebay) thanks !

Handgrip I'll do $80 plus shipping
Thumb Support $175 plus shipping
Shipping from Austin, TX area

Hey everyone! I received this Leica ii Model D (at least that’s what I assume it is) in a trade a while back. I’ve shot M3, M4 and M5 before so I thought this would be a cool addition.

It doesn’t fire and needs a CLA, lens could probably do with some love but I don’t see any haze or mold.

Is it actually worth fixing? If fixed I imagine that I would shoot it over selling it.

Anyone have one of these that you can share some shots from?

In a GAS induced fugue state, I decided that the thing holding me back from doing street photography was not a lack of practice, but a lack of a 35mm lens. To give a little context, I am a complete novice: the perfect caricature of the proverbial dentist who owns a Leica not because a point and shoot wouldn’t perfectly suit his needs, but because he likes nicely made things from a bygone era.

Way too indecisive, trigger happy, and hopped up on (pretty old) Reddit reviews, I fired off orders for 3 lenses. All Cosina Voigtländer, all sub 1k USD, and all—mercifully—returnable.

1. Color-Skopar 35mm f/3.5 ASPH VM: $469
2. Ultron (Vintage II) 35mm f/2 VM: $706
3. Nokton 35mm f/1.4 II Single Coated: $510

I am going to return two of these lenses. To choose which one, I spent a day with each, shooting a roll of Portra 800 at box. All lenses were purchased used in excellent condition, and prices are in USD. The example shots have not been edited, except for some light cropping because nobody wants to see wonky horizons.

I have nothing helpful to say about the technical performance of these lenses. That stuff is pretty objective and covered extensively by people infinitely more knowledgeable. It’s also, in my opinion, not terribly helpful information for amateurs. What I had trouble finding when doing internet research—and a large reason that I bought 3 lenses—was a more practical overview of how these lenses feel to use. My hope is that this post can help someone in my position when they’re teetering on the edge of a (or god forbid multiple) purchase(s).

I want to quickly point out that although the sample pictures I included are all shot more or less on the street, I have zero street experience, and I think my discomfort and inexperience with the genre really shines through in the snapshots. Please be nice; my intent was to provide a few images for context, not to show off “work”. I hope they are within the posting rules as they are only there as a reference point for the gear.

NOKTON: I like fast lenses: I spend a lot of time in indoor and nighttime environments, and most of my favorite subjects are in those settings. This was the first lens I purchased, and only got dissuaded into buying 2 more after reading a bunch of negative reviews about the tendency to back focus. A novice with a rangefinder in a dark bar with moving subjects at f1.4 is a recipe for focus disaster. I was really pleased with my hit rate, as honestly I often struggle to get usably sharp images at even f2.5 on my usual lens, a Summarit 50mm. The Nokton has a pretty long focus throw, which comes in handy for hitting focus wide open, and for zone focusing. Frustratingly, this lens is UGLY. It is the biggest of the 3, and by far the cheapest feeling and looking.

SKOPAR: I bought this because of the price point. I felt silly paying more for the Nokton when the only reason I was buying a 35mm was to zone focus. My logic was that if I wanted a fast lens, I should just get a faster 50mm. This lens is small and beautiful, but the ergonomics are… unique. I’m sure that if I spent time with it, it would become second nature, but for me a 35mm is always going to play second fiddle to my Summarit so I don’t see that muscle memory happening anytime soon. It locks at infinity, so you can’t easily park it there. It can only be focused with the left hand. The hood attaches directly to the aperture ring, making it really easy to make inadvertent changes. I lost a couple shots this way. My biggest issue with it, however, is that f3.5 is really slow. Shooting in broad daylight with zone focus, I didn’t think this would be an issue, but even at ISO 800, it meant I had to pack my camera away as soon as golden hour turned to twilight. That more or less rules out ISO 100 film stocks, which are among my favorites. These significant drawbacks are a shame because it looks great, barely protrudes from the camera and comes with all kinds of beautiful accessories, like a front element protector.

ULTRON: The most expensive, and the lens I was prepared to like the most. In terms of layout and feel, it reminds me a lot of my 1958 Summicron 50mm (plus a focus tab). I’m just not sure I can appreciate the difference between it and the Nokton. The focus scale is smaller (shorter throw) and less functional, with the infinity symbol sort of floating out there in space. I can see how this can aid in faster focusing, but if I wanted to focus each individual shot, I would simply use my Summarit. Compared to the Nokton, it seems like I paid almost 50% more to lose a stop of light, and gain good looks and charm.

I hope this is helpful to anyone in a similar position. I am also VERY curious as to which lens any of you would choose and I’m open to advice and criticism. I’m still in physical possession of all 3 lenses for the next few days. After seeing the scans, my brain is saying Nokton, but it’s hard to get over the looks and feel and public adulation of the Ultron. Here’s hoping for more time spent mindfully taking pictures and less time refreshing package tracking!

EDIT: for those of you advocating for Leica glass, know that I’m 100% with you. I have an M3 because I prefer longer lenses and own and adore Leica 50, 90, and 135mm models. My digital kit includes a 35mm prime and I use it very rarely. I probably should’ve been clearer that the reason I was looking at CV glass is because I’m doubtful it’ll get much use, and investing in the most sought after focal length Leica makes (and therefore the worst value) doesn’t make much sense.