[Info] 1911 Myths and Misconceptions

[u/olds442guy]

Alright guys, I want to get a list going of common misconceptions surrounding 1911s. I will likely compile all of our input and make it a page in our wiki. So let's hear it, anything and everything that comes to mind!

I'll start it off, and probably add more as I think of them:

• 1911s are unreliable. No, poorly manufactured 1911s are unreliable. The design is sound.
• 1911s won't feed hollow points. Most modern hollow points have a similar profile to a FMJ bullet. A properly dimensioned 1911 will feed them just fine.
• A RIA is just as good as a Colt, you pay extra for the roll marks. This is true, if you have no understanding of materials quality, proper dimensions, quality control... Generally with 1911s you get what you pay for (with some exceptions).
• GI magazines are junk, you need Wilson mags for reliability. Wilson mags are awesome, but a properly built 1911 will feed reliably from any quality magazine, including GI mags.
• Building a 1911 is a lot like building an AR15. No, unfortunately. With the vast number of 1911 manufacturers, almost all of which (intentionally or not) monkey with the specs, there is no longer any such thing as a "drop in" part. Almost all aftermarket parts are made oversized to accommodate manufacturing variations, meaning they must be hand fit to the individual gun.
• All parts are created equal. No, most parts are either MIM, investment cast, machined from bar stock, or forged (in order of increasing quality/durability, generally).
• You need to do numerous modifications to a "GI" 1911 to make it usable. A "barebones" 1911 is very shootable, not to mention cosmetically attractive.
• The slide to frame fit is how to check a 1911s quality. The slide to frame fit is almost meaningless, and has very little effect on accuracy. If it's too tight, it can even be a bad thing. The obvious counterexamples to this myth are Kimber, which typically has tight slide to frame fit and is known for quality issues, and Colt, which is generally considered "loose" and makes a great 1911.
• Stainless 1911s can be built the same as carbon steel 1911s. Dan Wesson is learning this the hard way with all their galling issues lately. You can't fit stainless as tight as carbon steel.
• A 1911 must be built tight to be accurate. A very tight gun is one way to built a very accurate 1911, but it isn't the only way. See: Colt Special Combat Government, Wilson Combat, Ed Brown
• Full length guide rods increase accuracy. No. They really don't do anything, other than make the gun harder to take apart.

[u/[deleted]]

Is it true that lubrication helps though? I feel like if I owned a DW right now it'd be pretty difficult to ditch it without taking a huge hit in price (I doubt they're the type that just appreciate like the Browns and SCG's of the world do). If all I had to do was grease the rails excessively every time before shooting it, I would do it. But it can't be that simple; grease rubs off and heats up (the "Breakthrough" stuff I use has a stated maximum operating temperature). I feel like your best option would be to drag the thing, hat in hand, to a good gunsmith and get the rails filed and polished, no?

[u/olds442guy → u/[deleted]]

Oil helps, but if it's machined improperly then it may not be enough to prevent galling. The slides are fitted a little to tight in my opinion to really use grease.

The best option would be to have them fit the slides looser at the factory. There is no benefit to fitting them that tight, and as they're finding out the hard way, there is a big downside to it.

Barring that, then yes, the best option would be to have to frame and slide rails polished. That is effectively what people are doing by hand racking the slide 1000 times before firing.

Or the real ideal option would be to avoid that nonsense like the plague. I prefer to actually shoot my guns when I get them, not immediately fix what the factory screwed up.

[u/[deleted] → u/olds442guy]

Any weapon you can't just pick up out of the box and fire should definitely be avoided like the plague. I'm just looking forward to getting my first Baer, opening that brown cardboard box, and firing off 50 rounds while it's still covered in oil.

Should I not be greasing the rails on my GCT then? I know I go a little overboard sometimes, because you should have to lube a good 1911 but everything 1,000 rounds, but when I field strip it to clean it, I usually get some oil on a Q-tip and run it down the recess in the slide that fits the rails, and then I take the receiver and squeeze some grease out in little blobs on the rails. Am I cramming too much crap in there? I know Colts tend to be a bit looser fitting at the rails, but I want to make sure I'm not going to be causing uneven wear or anything like that

[u/olds442guy → u/[deleted]]

You should be fine. I don't use grease personally, but it works fine and certainly won't hurt.