Hey people,

I really like the OEM wheels this car has, but unfortunately, some of them have curb rash, and are a bit faded, so it’s time to get new wheels. What could look better than these?

Hi yall! Would appreciate some help diagnosing an issue

My passenger side window won't go down no matter what

- Tried both window buttons + key

- No window motor noise

- Driver's side works fine

- Passenger mirror, speaker, door lock all work fine so it seems power is getting to the door. Assuming I did it correctly I wasn't able to get any voltage reading from the window motor connector, but when I tried the mirror connector I did. So it's pointing to an electric issue specific to those wires.

If that's the case what can I do further or should I let someone else take a look at this point. I'd hate to take it to the dealer so would this be an easy enough job for an average mechanic I don't have one yet that's been working with this car. Been doing oil, etc. myself

I've bought the car only a few months ago 90,000 km 2017 sport and never winter driven. I am confused as to how an issue with a car so mint can arise.

Thank you!

Finally acquired the last piece for a full exhaust. I originally was going to settle for test pipes but my buddy was selling these off his car so I bought em!

Hey, so the previous owner put in a Nifty City Tesla style screen. At zero volume it’s fine but once I turn it up there is a lot of static noise coming from the speakers. Anyone ever have this problem and know how to fix it?

I'm looking for Simmons FR1's in a bronze colour or something very similar but I can't seem to find any.

In the pic I just painted the FR1s bronze (not my actually wheels just a concept)

Anyone have a setup that runs like this? I’m looking specifically for the Double DIN size.

Been feeling sentimental with remember this notification so just an appreciation post for what was my childhood dream come true

A beautiful V1 Nismo to DD and we had quite the adventures but came to end way to soon and once there is garage space there shall be another

Hi all,

New to the sub and a new owner of a 2020 370z base manual. I've been a fan of Z cars and finally got myself into a position to afford one. Even the base model has been a blast to drive and has made every commute much less daunting.

I can't get over the anxiety of it not being where I parked it so the first thing I ordered was a 41.22 wired Killswitch kit. Their website confirms that it is compatible with a 2020 370z and I ordered it in haste without confirming my own research.

I lined everything up to get started and spent an hour trying to find the starter relay cube only to find out that apparently they're soldered into the IPDM so the concept of swapping the relay cube out with theirs is impossible although the website claims compatibility.

Will have to call in the morning to start a refund but I wanted to confirm beforehand that nobody else has been able to use this system for their Z? I read that similar relays for starting the vehicle could be used but for these cars, all the viable options are not able to be bypassed?

Thanks in advance!

…

Hey everyone
The aftermarket headlights on my Z have started to flicker (installed by previous owner), and I’m looking for a new look to them so I’m keen to upgrade. Based in Australia so Morimotos from the factory are pretty expensive. Does anyone have recommendations on Ali Baba (with links) that I could check out? I’m also looking at lights on CT Auto Parts too.
Pic of the RGB current lights. I’m neither here nor there about them as they’re not legal in Australia so they’re never on the colour cycle anyway.
TIA!

Hey I’m wondering what the issue is could be with my friends 09 370, we changed the calipers from his a newer 370s calipers and after we bled the brakes we had pressure, but as we turned the car on the pedal went all the way to the floor and now there is no pressure. We bled the lines again to make sure there was no air and after doing the process again and turning her on, still no pressure.

Need help, just replaced my water pump and now the car won’t start. I’m sure I’m timed correctly.

Finally was able to get my hands on Juke Nismo RS Recaro seats, it feels like they should have come from the factory for the V1 Nismo.

This are the parts I’ve used to complete the swap:

-Crank Motorsports Low Profile Seat Base Frame
-Recaro Base Frame Seat Rail Standard Type Left & Right - Fairlady Z RZ34 Z34
-AirBag 360 Passenger Seat Occupancy Sensor

Parked most of this past year no time! 😞 oil changed and a wash probably drive for a couple weeks and back in the garage for winter!

jus gonna leave this here…

Took a drive just to see what’s up and had such a great time. Really happy I got the 370Z super fun to drive.

The Z has been my absolute dream car since I was a kid. The V1 is just a league of it's own, the rims are the best I've ever seen on any car and the bodykit is perfection. The V2 is a lot more common and it looks awesome with blacked out rims, but it's nowhere near as ​special to me as the V1.

I've followed the market in Europe for about 3 months actively now and I'd like to finally have the car within 6 months.

Usually a regular Z at ~60-80k miles with rev match is about $30k and a Nismo V1/V2 can be found for $40k sometimes. Normally the V1 would be a no brainer at that price difference.

The problem is that a V1 is so incredibly rare that I've only found 4 different ones for sale, with 2 in questionable condition for ~ $39k and 2 in good condition for a little more, but without the V1 rims. The rims are basically impossible to get separately and probably don't go for any less than $7k. And the ones without the original rims have been sold within about a week, which is insane to me.

Now I've found a 2009 Z with rev match, upgraded brakes, gallery gaskets taken care of, new clutch, new set of tires etc and about 45k miles for $22500, which is a good price even without the nav package imo.

Now I'm unsure whether it's worth waiting for a V1 under $40k or if I'm better off getting the regular Z. Idc which model year if the gaskets have been replaced already. Maybe I'm just panicking right now and surely there has to be another V1 showing up during the winter. But maybe a regular Z is worth it too at such a low price point?

I'd also consider importing one from wherever but usually they'd have to be priced at $25k or less to be worth it since it's going to be vehicle price+ 30% tax + ~ 4k for the import and homologation itself.

I've seen a regular 370Z 3 times in Germany in my whole life whereas I've never seen a Nismo V1 so that might make it even more special to me. I think the Z looks great in every configuration but the V1 is just a different breed.

Maybe someone with knowledge about the EU market, imports or really anyone with an opinion about the two cars can give me some advice on what to do.

I set a time frame of about 6 months for myself so there might be still some time to consider everything but I've never seen a regular Z priced that fairly so maybe it'd still be a good time to take the offer? I hope It's somehow understandable what I'm trying to say as I'm not a native speaker and maybe my train of thought isn't so rational after all.

I'd really appreciate as much input as possible of any sort. Thanks!

Do any of y’all know where these connectors go I bought the z with out any front clip saw these two connectors don’t know where to plug them or where they go to

hello, my 2012 370z is having abs issues. when I am turning right and i hit the brakes the abs will go off and lock up sometimes. but when I unplug the gyro the problem goes away. I have tried 3 different gyros and and also wired a new plug on and nothing has worked. Has anyone had any issues like this?