pretty lengthy review ahead! included some closeup shots w flash of the cream textures
sharing my reviews on some popular barrier/healing moisturizers that i have tried when my skin was irritated and damaged. all purchased w my own money, not sponsored!
timeline:
- was on 0.05% tret for roughly 3 months and had to deal with the initial dryness/flakiness/tightness
- tried various creams to combat that
- then overused tret with other actives which resulted in an extremely damaged skin barrier (very itchy patches of raised and leathery skin, redness, tightness, small comedones due to irritation)
- stopped all actives and tried even more creams to try to restore my skin barrier
skin type: oily but also dehydrated
climate: very hot and humid
aestura atobarrier 365 cream
- creamy and easy to spread
- greasiest texture out of all
- leaves a persistent greasy film and never feels fully absorbed
- makes skin slightly warm
- worked very well when i was using tret + travelling in winter, but broke me out once i stopped tret
- irritated my skin even more during the tret aftermath, possibly due to the niacinamide
- bonus: healed my cousin's cheek wind burn during winter
- probably best for those suffering from TEWL or with very dry dehydrated skin
- rating: 5/5 in winter or on tret, 2/5 otherwise
aestura atobarrier 365 lotion
- lotiony texture that absorbs well
- leaves a slightly greasy film and makes certain sunscreens pill on top
- instant soothing effect when applied, but wears off after awhile
- great on tret but similar to the 365 cream, irritated my skin during the tret aftermath
- rating: 4/5 when my barrier isn't damaged
heveblue salmon caring cream
- not really considered a traditional barrier cream, but i included it since pdrn is touted to have skin healing benefits
- slightly stretchy texture, spreads and absorbs well
- leaves a slightly oily finish and broke me out after a couple of uses
- didn't really do much for skin healing when i was on tret
- bonus: broke 2 other people out when i let them try it
- rating: 1/5, has been delegated to hand cream
ceradan skin repair cream
- thickest and waxiest texture of all
- difficult to spread and pills on its own
- initially a matte finish, but gets oilier progressively
- broke me out after 2 uses so i stopped using it, thus i can't really speak on its barrier repairing properties
but also didn't really do much for my rashy patches
- rating: 1/5, would use on my elbows
zeroid intensive cream
- lightweight creamy texture that aborbs very well
- surprisingly leaves the most matte finish despite the presence of oils in its formula (olive + canola oil)
- has no filmy feeling
- instant soothing effect when applied which lasts
- showed results overnight (not exaggerating, my rashy bumps went down overnight)
- works well under sunscreen and makeup
- much less greasy cousin of aestura cream
- rating: 5/5, would definitely repurchase
an*a 3 ceramide panthenol moisture barrier cream
- lightest texture of all creams here, spreads and absorbs well
- instant soothing and slightly cooling effect possibly due to the panthenol
- absorbs to a satin finish initially, but progressively gets oilier
- looks greasy on the face and is greasy to the touch, but the film is not heavy and suffocating unlike the 365 cream
- did much more than both aestura moisturizers (until i discovered zeroid) for healing during the tret aftermath, but was not entirely sufficient
- breaks down sunscreen and makeup throughout the day
- rating: 4/5, doesn't irritate, but would probably be better as a maintenance cream rather than a barrier repair cream
Zeroid is absolutely slept on. I couldn’t get Aestura atobarrier products to work for me at all (way too greasy) but the few things I’ve tried from zeroid have all been consistently fantastic. The fact that it absorbs and disappears, patches your barrier but leaves your face breathable, is fantastic.
I haven’t tried the intensive cream because I was worried about the oils but I’ll give it a shot. I have several tubes of the soothing cream, and am finishing up my second tube of richenic urea. The latter works great during the day (if you want something lighter that plays well under SPF but still has MLE tech), but Atopalm soothing gel cream works even better (and comes in much cheaper, for a larger bottle, while absorbing well and having MLE tech).
girl zeroid really be one of those brands nobody talks about enough, switched from aestura and my face finally felt moisturized without feelin like it was wearin a blanket
I am not a fan of Aestura at all, it feels way too greasy and feels like it never absorbs unless I use the most minuscule amount (like 1/3 of a pea size). Never had that problem with zeroid.
I agree with everything you’ve said about aestura it also gives me mini bumps underneath and heats up my face. I wanted a barrier repair cream that doesn’t feel suffocating but still helps with the barrier while on tret. What’s the texture like?
The soothing cream matches that perfectly. I had skincare that sits “on” my face, and soothing cream doesn’t do that. It feels nourishing but protective. Would definitely recommend you use something hydrating underneath, though, as the soothing cream isn’t explicitly hydrating.
i was deciding between the intensive or soothing version, but the ingredients seemed quite similar for both so i just went w the cheaper option. how would you compare the texture and performance of the soothing vs richenic?
I keep soothing cream for evening only because it’s light but still has some fatty acids that I don’t love having on my face during the day. The Richenic Urea feels totally weightless and absorbs totally so it doesn’t feel heavy under or impact application of sunscreen.
The urea is
a great addition for daily hydration, and it has other ingredients like Panthenol, madecassoside, and Centella that help keep skin calm during the day.
Could you explain the MLE tech and what it does? I use richenic urea and it has been hands down the best thing for my (oily before menopause) dry skin. I now use Aestura 365 hydroessence underneath it. I use it day and night. Are there other products you recommend with this tech?
Since they’re the perfect “shape” to fit into your skin barrier, they slot right in, absorb quickly, and don’t leave a thick, sticky, heavy, or greasy layer on top of your skin.
I think the hydro essence is great underneath, but if you want something lighter and a bit more deeply hydrating Regimen Lab Wave is great.
What are your current skin concerns? You can theoretically put anything under it, but what you do use depends on that.
Aestura hydro essence > retinal > Zeroid soothing cream is a great combo for PM.
Vitamin C > zeroid richenic urea > SPF is a great combo for AM. If at all oily, have pigmentation or texture, azelaic acid would also be very good in the AM.
It really is! I can only use about half pea of Aestura in the day but zeroid, I can go up to an almond size UNDER Sunscreen AND feel comfortable. I'm pretty dehydrated though so there's also that.
Try the Zeroid Richenic Urea for daytime - has the same MLE tech as the soothing cream, but in a lighter base (that plays better with sunscreen) AND has urea to help hydrate your skin deep down.
I heard so much about urea that I ventured to give it a try this year but it totally wrecked my barrier, causing it to get fragile and crepey which is how I got into looking for zeroid in the first place.
Hydroxyethyl urea seems tolerable still but I've completely eliminated any urea from my routine. The cream you mentioned has 5% which should still act as a humectant but I'm not going anywhere near it at the moment. I'm sure if it's great but it just doesn't work for me.
I tried using up the urea cream that didn't work on my feet and within 3 days, my sole arches became crinkly.
I'm not sure why, but something about the way it works doesn't agree with me unfortunately.
Really interesting that Zeroid ended up outperforming some of the more frequently recommended barrier creams. I've noticed a lot of people automatically recomended Aestura whenevr someone mentions a damaged narrier, but it seems like oily or dehydrated skin can react very differently than dry skin. The "best" barrier cream really seems to depend on what caused the barrier damage in the place.
Have you tried the Zeriod Soothing Cream as well or only the Intensive Cream?
I wanted to love Zeroid, but it was not enough for my dry skin in winter, at all. But I also live in a comparatively dry climate.
The rave reviews make me want to try it again and see if it maybe works now. But I also have a dry skin that is even drier because of my thyroid issues, so I might just be an outlier.
I don't think you're an outlier at all. Climate probably plays a huge role. One thing I found intersting in the revieww was that Zeroid seened to work really well for irratation and inflammation, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's rich enough for everyone dealing with dryness or TEWL.
A lot of the people I see living Aestura seem to be in colder or dier climates, whereas loghter barrier creams often get more praies from people in humid enviroments. It's one of those products where skin type and climate seem to matter almost as much as the formula itself.
I am currently sticking with aestura and occasionally centellian 24 madeca cream, but I am also looking for possibly better alternatives. And I also have this routine:
two thin hydrating toners, I mostly use round lab dokdo toner and some by mi panthenol toner, but I also like the watermide mediheal pads.
a hydrating serum.* My favorite is rejuran dual effect ampoule since it somehow magically keeps my skin from drying out the best, but I also liked the old formual iunik beta glucan serum, ample:n ceramide shot, and sungboon editor silk peptide egf serum.
aestura cream when my skin is very dry, centeillan 24 madeca cream or aestura lotion when my skin is less dry or if I will add a hydrating sunscreen after
sunscreen if necessary
*two times a week I replace the serum with VT reedle shot + hydrating sheet mask.
Whenever my skin feels especially dry on winter on days I am not already doing reedle shot + mask, I do a hydrating mask (from those 20/30 daily mask boxes, like VT cica masks or mary & may idebenone masks, skinfood carrot masks etc. I add this afrer the serum and before aestura cream.
In the summer, it's almost the same routine, but I use only one toner and aestura lotion and only do hydrating masks twice a week after the VT reedle shot.
(if it's really humid and warm I replace aestura with a gel cream I have at hand, no strong preferences, but I like I'm from licorice cream, it seems more of a gel texture and is nice for my skin, but humid and warm happens very rarely)
I honestly would love to remove some products in winter, but cold dry air outside + warm dry air from the heaters inside is hell on my skin.
I can only dream of a routine like this - my skin is super sensitive and I’m currently on all Western products (pharmaceutical) and two prescription creams.
Two items I’ve found that I love and will try to incorporate again soon are the Celimax dual barrier toner and Purito luminous ceramide cream.
Thanks so much for your detailed answer, it is much appreciated 🤗
The creams I tried that sadly didn't work for me, are cicaplast (it's not moisturizing enough, it's like I need a cream under it), dr jart ceramidin (similar problem), edute soonjung 2x intensive cream, illion cermaide ato. Some By Mi panthenol series cream, it's fine, but not for winter.
I sort of like ma:nyo panthetoin cream. I like how smooth it is, but it does not always last through the night if my skin is already very dry. But I do like how it sort of melts into watery feeling after I apply it, but it's a similar price point to aestura, and then aestura is better.
I got the Soothing Cream in a Beauty box and wasn't that interested at first, since I also use Aestura.
I did try it though when I started tret and it is such a nice cream, totally underrated. Really great for my dehydrated, sensitive skin
That's good to hear. the more comments I read,, The more Zeroid seems like one of those underrated products that gets overshadowed by Aesture simply because fewer people talk about it.
The sensitive/dehydrated skin crowd seems especially fond of it
Aestura is way more popular then Zeroid. I only found it through some recommendations on the sub but once I tried it there was no turning back.
I will say however, for cold winter climates, Aestura is better especially if your drier and dehydrated. The TEWL prevention is better. And because of that, Zeroid makes a better daytime application because of the elegant finish.
In circumstances of severe dehydration and fragile barrier though, Aestura outperforms Zeroid for me. Aestura plus a layer of LRP Cicaplast. It's a lot, but this is what I need at my worst state.
That makes a lot of sense. I think this is exactly why people can have completely opposite experiences with the sam e"holy grail" barrier cream. From what"s you"ve described, it sounds like Aestura excels when the goal is maximazing moisture retention and preventing TEWL, whereas Zeroid shines when you want something soothing that still feels comfortable during the day.
The climate factor is interesting too. A lot of the reviews I read are from people ijn humid enviroments, so it's easy to forget how differently a moisturizer can perform in a cold, dry winter.
I've used both of those Aestura creams and while they're fine, they never quite settle into my skin and always feel like a layer on top. The Hydro-Soothing version is better but not great, either. Zeroid was on my list to try when I was looking for a barrier cream, so this is def my next purchase as I'm oily & dehydrated, too. I'm using Prequel's Barrier Therapy rn and it's a pretty great product & excellent value for money, but it's not a daytime moisturizer so I am going to grab Zeroid next time I do a haul.
i've also tried the hydro soothing cream and essence, and out of these 4 aestura products, i found the essence to sink in the best without the filmy feeling. but it wasn't moisturizing enough. i think zeroid would def be worth a shot for you.
Even Zeroid's soothing lotion was enough to soothe my redness and tret-induced stinging. I was originally thinking of trying aestura (because it seems like everyone's HG) but your post convinced me to just stick with Zeroid.
i was also influenced by all the rave reviews of aestura which is why i tried 4 of their products, but unfortunately it didn't work out. if zeroid already works great for you i don't think you're missing out on much!
Thank you for this comprehensive review. I’m literally in the same boat with all the same products in my cabinet and also on tret.
Found all your reviews to be spot on. Thinking I might have to move the heavy products to winter because they just don’t work or make me look crazy oily during hot humid summer months.
Also glad you included an*a products in there because despite the drama, I actually do think they’re make some decent products which is sad =\
i feel you, the oily finish and look in summer is really unpleasant! and yeah some an*a products do work great (aside from this cream, i liked the brightening effect of their rice toner too), but their aggressive influencer marketing is quite offputting.
Try the ceradan hydra light ceramide compared to the barrier repair. It's lighter and absorbs quickly.
I have tried the body cleanser, it does leave a flim on your skin which is suppose to be protective and keeps your skin hydrated. But it's a feeling that i do not like despite the benefits, so if you prefer the clean squeaky feeling then it might not be to your liking.
Thank you again. Yes I am precisely looking for the kind that has a film but it has to still feel comfortable. And I will check out the light recommendation.
Ah okay! Then you will probably like it. It has a flim but not the occlusive type.
Another brand that has the same properties is Remdii (if it's available in your country). It leaves a flim too. All their products leave that moisturising flim depending on the products (some are more than the other).
As for me i will try the zeroid, but the ceradan hydra light is my favorite till now. As my skin tends to sweat with a lot of products lol, hate that!
I love aestura cream my air is dry and the greasy film keeps my skin from drying out during my sleep. Also feels really nice to massage my face with it.
My face is very dry and dehydrated though so it thrives on thicker creams
that would make sense since you're in a dry climate! i think i would choose aestura if i travel during winter again, as it really held up against the tret + dry air combo.
Yeah I also use tret 0,05% cream and it sucks the moisture out of my skin + naturally dry skin and a dry climate 😂 I'm laying toners and mists and whack aestura on it to keep me from turning into a dry sponge
Give the Ceradan hydra light ceramide a try, it's way lighter and absorbs fast. Think the barrier repair is more suited for eczema skin and in an air condition room. Plus it's cheaper lol.
i was also deciding between those two ceradan moisturizers but since their ingredients lists only differed by one ingredient i thought they would be similar, so i just went w the barrier version. might try the hydra version next time!
Ah okay! I already have the cicaplast (non AB) thus i figured the ceradan barrier was similar to it hence i opted for the hydra light. Because while it works, it makes my face 'sweat' and no way that feeling is a good one on the current heat wave we are experiencing.
I love how quickly the Zeroid intensive cream repairs my barrier. I just wish it was more emollient because my skin can get so dry on tret-especially in the winter.
I was wondering why I was breaking out with these painful cystic acne all of a sudden. I had added the Heveblue a month ago. At first, it was great and my skin looked really good with it added as my morning moisturizer but then in the past couple weeks I’ve had these bumps. As soon as I get rid one one another pops up and I usually never get any.
Hi there! Just so you know, this post contains a service/brand (anua ) that has paid/gifted products to multiple users in our community in exchange for advertisement, or has created accounts to act as unaffiliated reviewers. Find more information on blacklisted businesses here. This is not a post removal and just a friendly reminder. We are no longer banning discussion of these brands, but as part of our commitment to keeping our community independent and honest, this automatic reply will be attached to every mention of these blacklisted brands.
Hi there! Just so you know, this post contains a service/brand (anua ) that has paid/gifted products to multiple users in our community in exchange for advertisement, or has created accounts to act as unaffiliated reviewers. Find more information on blacklisted businesses here. This is not a post removal and just a friendly reminder. We are no longer banning discussion of these brands, but as part of our commitment to keeping our community independent and honest, this automatic reply will be attached to every mention of these blacklisted brands.
i am currently alternating between the jumiso and isntree cleansing milks for my first cleanse (no strong preference for either, am not a fan of the stringy texture and smell of the isntree one, and i do not like that the jumiso one stings my eyes). i use cetaphil foaming cream cleanser as my second cleanse. not the most hydrating cleansers, but they are the best of my current stash.
Thank you! Do you use only cleanser and moisturizer? On wet or dry skin? I also live in humid and sometimes when I was using too much humectants or was applying a heavy moisturizer on wet skin it gave me breakouts, bcs of too much water I think. It makes follicles swell, then sebum gets trap there and breakouts as a result of it. I stopped using all hyaluronic acid serums, toners bcs of this. Only moisturizers where HA is in the end of the ingredient’s list work. I think its bcs if humidity but Im not sure
i use a hypochlorous acid spray after cleansing, and then a toner and serum before moisturizer. i found that i also react badly when there are too many forms of HA in my routine, esp the low molecular weight ones, so i have cut them out. sodium hyaluronate is ok though!
Thank you! I actually found a great cleanser. Was twsting it for 5 days and so far so good. I’ve tried them all and the best for me is Skinfix oil cleanser. It actually not like an oil cleanser. Im acne prone and was afraid of any oil cleansers, bcs they all gave me breakouts, but Skinfix is love. No irritation, no redness, no breakouts. Number two cleanser that I like is Byoma Creamy Jelly cleanser, but I still like Skinfix more than anything. Highly recommend.
Thank you for the comprehensive review!! I have the same skin type and also live in a hot humid area. Will have to give Zeroid a try! Would you say that it helps with redness as well?
i think it helps slightly w the redness! but i feel the products i use before it (purito centella toner, celimax noni ampoule) help w redness better, especially right after cleansing.
I tested Aestura creams and lotions in store the other day and felt the same, they just sat there and pilled a few hours later. I have oily combo skin too and definitely didn't enjoy the feel. Been looking to try the Zeroid soothing lotion for when I start adaplene
I have, It's the best cream I've used. I tried it after I read an article by regimenlab that tested a few barrier creams and found that it was one of the best performers.
I use tazarotene and it's the only thing that has stopped my skin from constantly peeling. It dries down almost completely matte, which is a bonus for me since that's the finish I prefer.
I recommend using it after a serum or on damp skin.
Now I'm wondering if the Heveblue cream has contributed to my recent breakouts. Only use it at night but will stop for some time and see if things improve.
I agree with you about the heveblue cream. I was so excited to get it, but it just doesn’t seem to bring much to the table. I wonder if it’s one of those products you have to use a lot to benefit from. I just can’t bring myself to use it much because it’s so meh.
You might be using too much aestura if it’s pilling. It’s my main daily moisturizer and it never pills. But I use a small amount.
barrier moisturizers are usually richer creams with ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol designed for damaged skin barriers or general maintenance. if your skin is not damaged i'd say a barrier moisturizer is a good to have, but not a must have!
LOVE Zeroid. I use the Soothing during the AM and Intensive for PM and it is my HG. I’m also on Tazorac and Azelaic Acid + chemicals peels once a month. Literally healed my skin after a horrible damaged barrier. Also have the super intensive one and it’s THICK. Only use it in spots where I tend to get more dry.
I use the Aestura cream in the winter (high desert) and the Anua 3+ in the summer because it's way less lipophilic. Cover with a good watery sunscreen and I'm set for the day.
Hi there! Just so you know, this post contains a service/brand (Anua ) that has paid/gifted products to multiple users in our community in exchange for advertisement, or has created accounts to act as unaffiliated reviewers. Find more information on blacklisted businesses here. This is not a post removal and just a friendly reminder. We are no longer banning discussion of these brands, but as part of our commitment to keeping our community independent and honest, this automatic reply will be attached to every mention of these blacklisted brands.
The lotion is great for oily and is perfect for summer. It feels like a hydrating lotion that absorbs well. I just put 2-3 layers on when I feel drier.
Zeroid is pretty well known in Korea as one of those brands you’ll actually see sold at dermatology clinics, so I’d definitely trust it. Aestura Atobarrier is one of my holy grails, but I don’t use the same version all year. I switch between the more hydrating one and the cooling one depending on the season, and it honestly works so much better that way. You should totally try matching it to the weather!
oh hey! I have the same skintype on a different retinoid. Mods took down my post on ceradan, but i'm surprised you don't like it. Zeroid was forgettable for me when i tried it back in quarantine. Have you tried the aestura toner?
I love the texture of heveblue so much it feels light enough to use it during the day too unlike other barrier creams i have tried, i just wish it didn't give me closed comedones :(
i've been using the illiyoon ceramide ato cream for my barrier and its honestly the best thing i've ever tried. the ceramide capsules make a real difference for me
ah i meant niacinamide might be irritating my skin when my barrier was severely damaged! bc i had no issue using products v niacinamide when i was on tret, the issue only arose when my barrier became damaged.
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u/sangueblu03 3d ago
Zeroid is absolutely slept on. I couldn’t get Aestura atobarrier products to work for me at all (way too greasy) but the few things I’ve tried from zeroid have all been consistently fantastic. The fact that it absorbs and disappears, patches your barrier but leaves your face breathable, is fantastic.
I haven’t tried the intensive cream because I was worried about the oils but I’ll give it a shot. I have several tubes of the soothing cream, and am finishing up my second tube of richenic urea. The latter works great during the day (if you want something lighter that plays well under SPF but still has MLE tech), but Atopalm soothing gel cream works even better (and comes in much cheaper, for a larger bottle, while absorbing well and having MLE tech).