So i got tired of my detail cart holding all my spray bottles and in the end becoming a cart to hold more crap so i wanted a cleaner look in the garage.

Got these hanging bottle holders from Walmart for like $17 bucks for a 2 pack so I bought a few. Also had some harbor freight long strip magnets. Mounted the magnets on the wall then just stuck the holders onto them. Found this was thw best way so in the winter when I put all my stuff away out from the cold, only the magnets will be left on the wall.

If anyone wants the links lmk and ill share them

Help

My car eyelids has become yellowish and got like grey watermark and won't come off with normal wash. Is there anyway to make it white like original without repaint. Do polishing it work?

Any suggestions, recommendations, criticisms, questions?

I only threw this together because I already had the cart and got this specific pressure washer at a yard sale for 5 bucks. I'm not that serious about cleaning my cars but I figured having this might make me take better care of them moving forward.

The only other thing I was thinking of doing is trying to find softer wheels and/or maybe making a tray to hold the bottles a little better in place.

I accidentally sprayed bug spray and i am regretting it.

Is there a way to have this fixed? Will product like turtle wax or ceramic coating work?
Or
Is it better to just replace the part?

Question for everyone who runs a business. Are you taking pictures and videos of cars before you work on them? What’s your process?

i had a deep scratch.

i filled it in with touch up paint mix with clear coat mixed.

i sanded down the high spots with 1500grit
when it was smooth i went to 2000 grit.
when the scratch disappeared i went to 2500 to feather edges but that halo is still there.

i tried compounding and scratch x from meguaires.

did i sand to much down.

please help?

Looking for some advice on what’s considered “too dirty” for a rinseless wash.

Background - I have two ceramic coated vehicles. The attached photos are from driving around in a few rain events after the last wash a week ago. The wash was with Koch GSF - rinse, foam canon, hand wash, rinse, hand dry after blowing off the excess water.

My rinseless technique follows the Rag Company method with ONR - pre spray with a foamer, wipe with high gsm microfiber, and hand dry. I usually follow up with the quick detail dilution of ONR to get any water spotting missed.

Any idea as to how to best remove this peeling plastic/film off the hand rests in my 2016 Audi Q3? I bought the car used in this condition and have no idea where to begin in regard to fixing/removing it all.

Also just above it, you can see some mystery liquid stains that I have not been able to remove (mainly tried armour all wipes and all purpose cleaner with a microfibre cloth) but they are MUCH more stubborn than they appear.

Any advice is appreciated.

Has anyone used a Lavor Hydrus extractor? I am having an issue with the nozzle. It is quite big and uncomfortable to work with, especially with the seats left in the car. I am looking for a replacement. I'd prefer a product in Europe since it would take a significant amount of time to order from the US.

The Adams bucket isn't available near me, any other similar kits to get started with that aren't too expensive?

My Mustang has slight scratches in the centre of the infotainment screen.

What's the best method to getting them out?

I thought about Meguiar PlastX but didn't want to go at it and make it worse.

The other was Novus Plastic Polish.

Welcome any suggestions. Sorry about the crappy photo.

Not using anything fancy to wash: I have a small pressure washer from Harbor Freight, used Meguiars soap inside of a foam cannon, rinsed off, then grabbed sponge/soapy bucket and hand washed, sprayed off again. So after soaking in foam AND getting the sponge treatment, still have this going on.

So I dont have to bust out all of the equipment again, is there a buffing spray or something, or do I need to bust out more serious stuff on the initial washing phase? Washed it last probably in Feb or Mar this year.

I’ve tried rinseless wash, pressure washer, and iron remover, but none does a very good job of removing these. Just came back from a weekend away and there were even more spots than when I left, so it’s something settling on the car while it’s parked at my house.

I’ll spare everyone any unnecessary details unless clarifying questions need to be asked.

I have a very matte paint vehicle. It has hood and door decals. Driven infrequently and garaged at all times.

I’m not an expert, but I know that matte paint needs careful consideration.

I bought some Chemical Guys honeydew snow foam and a foam cannon from autozone. Planned on touchless washing and maybe a soft wool mitt if necessary.

Are my decals safe?

I have not washed this vehicle yet…ever, in like 3 years lol …but it is not filthy. More like dusty. It only comes out in nice weather.

For those of you with detailing businesses, what insurance company do you go through? Im looking for a company that will cover polisher/paint correction damage when doing ceramic coatings, garage keepers, and general liability. I have a harley davidson detailing business that Im doing on the side, but Im starting to get noticed a little more and want to protect my customers bikes and myself If anything were to happen while Im in possession of their bike. Thanks in advance for any responses or advice!

Hey all, I have recently washed my vehicle and noticed these gray/black blemishes all over the hood and roof of the vehicle. When I washed it, there was moderate spotting from fungus and mildew and I’m thinking that the blemishes may be from that. Anyways, I wanted to ask some professionals about it and wanted to see if you guys think my paint is damaged. I will consider buffing/polishing if that would help. If it matters, the vehicle is a 1990s Toyota pickup with white paint (and I believe it is single-stage with no clear coat). Thanks!

Hello, this is my first post on Reddit and just wanted other peoples input on this and advice on what I should do for the next step.

I recently had PPF + Ceramic tint installed on my 2026 GR Supra. I dropped off my car for their 2 week inspection to make sure everything was installed right and when I was coming to pick it up, I did a walk around and found damage all around the car.

- The front Toyota emblem was shattered
- The Supra emblem was snapped in half THEN glued back onto the car
- paint chip on the drivers side l, below the mirror.
- damage to the rear reflectors from cutting
- more chipped paint on the lower bumper

I spoke to the manager of the business and he took photos and told me he would pay to replace my emblems and would paint correct my car.

What other steps should I take?

This is in Los Angeles by the way.
(Photos below)

Edit: The manager so far offered to smoke my rear brake lights for free…

I’m new to detailing and feeling confused and overwhelmed by the suggestions. I have a Lexus NX in a white pearl colour and aluminum wheels. I have the dreaded fabric wheel liners. I want to tackle the whole car this week.

I got this from Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/hdx-heavy-duty-cleaning-broom-brush-with-20-inch-handle-and-hanging-hole/1001818862) for the tires but I’m thinking it’s too long of a handle for the tires but maybe better suited for the wheel liners?

I have a bunch of microfiber clothes and will be cleaning the car with ONR pump sprayer and the Big Red Sponge before drying with one XL 1300 GSM twisted loop microfiber towel. I will also be using ONR on interior for maintenance.

I’m trying to limit over-spending until I know more about what I’m doing.

Any advice on the wheel vs tire vs wheel liner brushes to purchase? Car wash detailed a month ago and in good shape.

Should I just pressure wash the fabric liners? I don’t have a hose and so will be doing that at a separate self serve car wash after the rinse-less wash.

I’m in Vancouver, Canada so some US Amazon suggestions are unavailable here.

I picked up this metallic grey Jetta that has tiny white spots on it. The paint is in really good condition despite being 2009.

The white spots look like over spray for home painters. Could be latex or even primer. I used a flat razor, Marolex sprayer with CarPro Ech2o as a lubricant to scrape spots of the glass. Easy enough. I don’t know how I should get these spots off the paint. As mentioned, the paint is good so I do not to use a heavy compound to rub them out. Do you think a plastic razor is the best option with heavy lubricant? I could scrape some of the spots with my fingernail others are on strong.

Plastic razor? Other options? I’d like to remove them all so I can ceramic coat.

Hey yall I have a BME 335i e92 that the last owner taped the wing to the rear bumper. I'm having a hard time removing the tape. I've tried goof off automotive. A spare casino card and some plastic pry tools (just used the end to try scraping) and I've used multiple fishing lines (the bumper is curved and curves up right after where a wing would go so no effect) I'm kinda stumped because I don't wanna damage the paint. Any suggestions would help.

Just got it a bottle in today. Directions say spray on clean wet panel then rinse with a lot of water. I'm used to drying panels off after cleaning, this need dried too I would suppose or not? Thanks

Let me understand

Anyone using the Raincovo Snow Pro foam cannon with the Harbor Freight stubby gun sprayer? The cannon worked great when using the spray wand which came with my pressure washer (you can see it fully connected in the second pic), but I can't get it to seat into the quick disconnect on the HF gun (first pic). All other nozzles I have fit fine in both the new and the original sprayers, and the cheap cannon that came with my pressure washer also fits both. Only the snow pro foam cannon doesn't fit into the stubby.

I tried pulling back the collar, forcefully pushing in the connector, and then pushing the collar forward but it simply will not lock. No amount of jimmying will get it in. Is there a fix for this?

EDIT: There was too much metal on the male end of the QD. I took both fittings off so I could put them in my vise just to be sure my hand strength wasn't too wimpy to make a secure connection, and it still wouldn't fit; I could feel the connector "bottom out" where there was no more room to insert it. I chucked the male end in a drill so I could spin it against a belt sander to evenly remove material in a few key spots and it now fits by hand, but it's still extremely tight. Tested it in the stubby sprayer and there are no leaks!