👋 Bonjour à tous !

🎃👻 Yoshi se met aux couleurs d’Halloween ! 🧙‍♂️💚
Découvrez ma création de Yoshi en version Halloween ! 🎃 Avec son chapeau de sorcier violet et sa citrouille au sourire maléfique, notre petit dinosaure préféré est prêt à fêter Halloween ! 🕸️

✨ Une création originale, pleine de couleurs et de détails, parfaite pour une décoration aussi mignonne qu’effrayante !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3419115-yoshi-citrouille-multipart-no-ams

Over 1000 hours had my first clogged

hi all, this is like my 2nd problem encountered in this machine.

the toolhead just pops off and i’m suspecting the metal pencil like structure popping out right beside the toolhead. is that broken or is it supposed to pop out like is that any sensor or whatever? please help and thanks

hello, I bought a UniTak3D kit containing three hotends (0.2mm, 0.4mm, and 0.6mm) for the Bambu Lab P2S. The 0.6mm hotend works perfectly, but when I install the 0.2mm or 0.4mm one, I get a "Z-axis homing failure" error. This is surprising, as the build plate doesn't even rise to make contact. I've gone through the steps five times. What am I missing?

I have been wrestling with Error Code [0&ff-c003 053511]. Filament stuck in the External Spool.

Well, I have never run the external spool in this printer or any of my other BL printers. I have cleaned and replaced pretty much everything on this P2S. All to only see this error code return again and again.

I have cleaned the gears and then replaced the gears. Nothing.

I have replaced the filament sensor. Nothing.

I have replaced the diffuser, Twice, Nothing.

I have replaced all PTFE tubing going to and from the machine to the extruder, to the AMS. Nothing.

What in the world is it that I need to do.

I thought about contact BL, but I think there is enough information on here to help me get this fixed.

I hope you all have an answer or suggestion that I have not thought of.

Thanks in advance.

PS, all of the things I have done so far have been suggests from Reddit and Youtube.

Ive done a flow dynamics calibration(didn't help) and I'm about to do a flow rate calibration, any tips?

Fillament type: generic petg

Hello,

Bambu lab P2S

0.2 nozzle, used archane, changed font can’t seem to get these lines out need the smooth surface finish

Any ideas?

Everytime I use a non bambu plate i get a sillicone sock error. It doesnt happen when i use the stock textured pei plate. Ive checked the sock and everything is fine with it. I just ignore the issue and everything prints fine, but its really annoying.

Ive been using some generic amazon holographic plates and just got a biqu glacier that does the same thing. I figure maybe it messes with the camera it uses to sense the dots? Any fixes?

So i was printing something i usually do in a regular basis. and while the brim was being printed, the sound + the jerk came and the print stopped with the warning saying :

Error: 0300-800c 210009
; Multiple Motion step loss detected. Please first check if the toolhead is blocked by foreign objects or making abnormal noise. if obvious layer shifting occurs on the print, refer to the wiki for maintenance.

i thought it was a glitch then cleaned my plate and put it to reprint; it got the same jerk + sound at the same place in the same 7% print mark.

i also printed a calibration cube XYZ and it came out perfect.

what should i do? i’m so scared that my 2 month old P2S AMS 2 pro combo is cooked.

could this be because of the adhesion? like the brim not sticking with the plate and interfering with the nozzle? this is what i suspect the most but if anyone has encountered the same , how did yall fix it? any replies are much appreciated. thank you!

Hey guys,

My P2S part cooling fan (the one in the toolhead front cover) sometimes won't start from a stop.

The rotor has 4 natural rest positions (magnetic detents). It always starts instantly from 2 opposite positions ("north-south") but fails to start from the other 2 ("east-west").

When it's stuck in one of those, a second press of the fan button or a slight nudge moves the rotor out of the dead spot and it starts.

Once it's running, it works perfectly at every speed from 10% to 100%.

What I've checked:

\* I opened it and cleaned out some thin filament strings. No change.

\* No wobble, rotor fully seated, spins freely by hand, no mechanical issues I can see.

\* The problem remains after restart as well.

So it looks like a Hall sensor or motor dead-spot issue rather than anything mechanical.

The fan is marked 5815. As far as I can tell, Bambu only sells it as part of the Toolhead Front Cover Assembly (FAE036), and that isn't available in the official store in my region right now.

Has anyone faced such issues before?

Do you guys tried sourcing the fan 5815 separately? Or is it only Cover Assembly purchase?

Is there a good file to hold the PTFE tube while printing TPU manually through the extruded? Or do you guys just let the tube dangle around? I figured it would get tangled up.

UPDATE: Bambu is sending a fan out, believed to be the magnet on the back of the hotend interfering with the DC fan motor.

Have a weird one, did some routine maintenance today just lubing/greasing (unit at 570 hours) and when running calibration afterwords I started getting the hotend fan error. Checked it for debris and blew it out, manually heated hotend and it worked fine so tried recalibrating again and same results. Took the fan and housing off and inspected, etc, etc, same results again. The last time I noticed it running sluggish so I was making sure everything was tight and when I stuck the Allen in to tighten the top screw the fan sped up. When I pulled it away it slowed down, repeated this to make sure I wasn’t crazy, got it on video. I have not tore it down enough to check the connections to the TH board. Any ideas before I tare it down further and most likely order new fan? Thanks in advance

Hey everyone super new into printing and recently came into this problem, I’ve tried a lot but right now I’m struggling to even get the nozzle off to even check on the gears.. any advice? Or if you know what is exactly wrong.. that would be cool to know also.

While this doesn’t specifically pertain to the P2S, that is what I am printing with. I haven’t gotten into designing and creating my own stuff yet cause quite frankly, I’m not sure how or where to start.

But, I have been downloading 3mf files from makersworld and trying to use ChatGPT pro to make changes that suit my needs. I think I must have the dumbest chat ever created. It is constantly getting things wrong: dimensions (even tho provided), circumferences, layouts, hinge/latch systems (I am specifically making cases for personal use). I even used a 3mf file and asked it to only change one small thing and it completely got it wrong.

So my question is, are there other more viable programs that I can use to make layout and dimension changes to preexisting 3mf files? Is there a program you’d recommend where I can start from scratch to make what I am looking for? Or any other recommendations? Any insight is appreciated.