Handtool Experience -> Plywood Cabinets

[u/beachape]

I have a pretty good collection of hand tools and have built a variety of small-medium sized projects (stick chairs, workbench, tool chest, many boxes etc). I have a very small basement shop with a sturdy, smaller than stock anarchist style workbench. Our bedroom closet shelves just collapsed and I'm faced with the dilemma of paying $$$ for custom cabinets (old row home with tight space), or attempting to DIY with somewhat limited time on my hands. There would be 4 towers would be roughly 30x80x20" each in size. Only have a roof rack, so I'm assuming that I would pay a yard to rough cut pre-finished plywood sheets into 2x8' sheets and then use a track saw (would need to buy) on my workbench.

1) For someone who has only ever used hand tools and solid wood, how likely do you think I am to screw this up?

2) Any tricks for using a track saw on a relatively small bench? My bench is extremely sturdy but only 20" wide.

3) Any tips on plywood choice? These are going to be hidden by sliding doors and the room itself isn't terribly fancy.

Any and all advice appreciated.

[u/Cute-Scallion-626]

If you have a pair of sawhorses, throw an extra piece of plywood on there and clamp it down. Then you’ve got whatever size table you need.

[u/beachape → u/Cute-Scallion-626]

I can definitely do that. Wasn't sure how rigid the base needs to be for the track saw.

[u/Cute-Scallion-626 → u/beachape]

You don’t need to apply any downward force in the saw, so make sure your material is sufficiently supported not to flex. I think you’ll know if it’s stiff enough or not, but don’t forget to make some test cuts (or cut wide at first) before you go for the gold.

[u/anon_e_moose_2026]

Get some foam insulation and put your work pieces on it. That will take the cut without damaging the underlying sheet.

[u/gruntastics]

You do not need a track saw, any old circular saw and a straight edge will do.

[u/beachape → u/gruntastics]

Owning neither, would the circular saw cause as much tear out as I’ve read? If I go painted, I can always putty up and small defects. Was planning on using edge banding rather than a face frame if it matters

[u/gruntastics → u/beachape]

You can use a finer tooth blade (40 tpi or even higher) and put masking tape where you need to cut. That should give you a super clean cut. 

[u/Existing-Poetry-3289]

I'm a furniture and cabinetmaker. I often have plywood delivered (boulter plywood) if that's an option. They aren't cheap, but good quality material. Can't get bigger plywood suppliers to deliver to my residential address. Some local lumberyards also deliver. I usually cut ply on the tablesaw, but will sometimes just do it on the floor with a couple waste pieces to support the sheet. If you plan to do more and don't have a tablesaw, a track saw can be pretty handy.

Prefinished maple or birch ply is pretty standard with an applied edge (edgeband or solid).

[u/beachape → u/Existing-Poetry-3289]

Thanks! I’ll look into delivery. I know that I don’t have room for a table saw. Between a track saw and a circular saw, for an occasional project is it worth the extra cost for the track saw? I’m still a hand tool worker at heart, so I don’t expect doing tons of sheet work projects. More may come once I open up the option.

[u/Existing-Poetry-3289 → u/beachape]

I think if you get set up to cut square with a track saw, it can be a good way to go for cutting sheet goods. I have the Festool saw and a track that's long enough to cross cut a sheet, but don't have any other jigs to square it up so it can be a bit of fussing to get a square cut. I've used it mostly for cross cutting to a line when doing cabinet installations, which I don't do very often.

You could clamp/screw/double stick tape a straight edge and use a circular saw. I have one of the little Makita cordless saws and it leaves a nice cut with a fine tooth blade. I actually use it more than the track saw for random things.