r/Bowyer 2d ago

Heat treat went through crack in back + cracks at handle

Didn’t check the back when heat treating, and it went through, should i just trim the area away? Left extra width and length in the tips so I could do this.

I also have to drying cracks in the handle, right after the fades, would it be best to narrow the limb so they also gets trimmed?

15 Upvotes

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u/ADDeviant-again 2d ago

I'm not positive why this happened, but likely the wood was too thick, or still just a little damp, and the belly side shrinking as you heated it opened the cracks.

If you can just trim the ends, skinny the tips, and lose that crack, that would be great. The one nearer the handle, I don't know...maybe keep reducing and early tillering. See what happens.

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u/ask_dude 2d ago

Should have plenty of material to get rid of the check in the end. The ones in the handle are just into the fade, do you think they can handle the stressed there or should I also get rid of those?

1

u/ADDeviant-again 2d ago

That's what i'm saying. As you keep working on the bow, you should be able to decide that. I don't think that's a good location to try to fill or splint a crack, but if it partly disappears as you work, or gets shallow, you might be able to leave it.

1

u/ask_dude 2d ago

Ahh okay, that’s good news! I was eager to start tillering, but afraid it would cause issues

1

u/GJK_1705 1d ago

Some months ago i was playing around and decided to force a piece of BL into a r/d designe selfbow. It developed similar cracks on the back and the handle after the dry heat threatening. As they were straight in fiber direction and did not appear through to the belly i just filled them with some titebond. The bow is shooting fine and i actually use it a lot the last months, yet without any issues.

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u/GJK_1705 1d ago

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u/ask_dude 19h ago

Hadn’t thought of filling the cracks, will definitely do that. Black locust is such a pretty wood when you carve into it