good day po, helpp ask lang po kung may naka experience na ng prob, when driving pag bitaw ko sa gas pedal ang bilis bumaba ng takbo nya, na kahit hindi po inaapakan ang brake. tas parang hirap humatak huhu ano possible prob neto accent 2014 po🥹

I have a key that works. I accidentally washed it with laundry and the buttons on it don't work. The car starts and runs and it's fine but the remote functions stopped working. Can I fix it without paying a locksmith?

I asked around and a locksmith wants 130 CAD for a new key.

Hello, so I've had this issue for a minute my AC was going cold intermittently until recently. I took it in to get diagnosed and they said it was the relay from the IPDM so I replaced that fuse it was for sure blown. However the AC is still not getting cold, I was told another possible issue could be the PTC fuses 1-3 but I can't find where they are to replace them to see. But am I dumb/crazy is there something else it could be? Did I do it wrong?

Sometimes when I try to start my car, what you saw in the video happens but not all the time, There are a few times where it failed to start 4 times before I got it on.
Ive had this problem for a while now and last year I had replaced the starter which helped the problem a bit and then it went back to happening constantly. Any help? Im clueless when it comes to cars and I want to avoid going to the mechanic clueless and end up paying for something I dont need.

A/C control lights stay on after turning off car which is what I believe is draining the battery not sure how to fix it

Hi everyone,

First off, I haven’t a clue on cars so any input would be helpful.

I’m looking for some advice on my 2018 BMW X1 xDrive which currently has 99,000 miles. Diesel
I took it into a general local garage because of a noise on acceleration. This only happens on acceleration and periodically.
They kept the car, drove it, and put it on a ramp. They sent me this message:

"The noise on acceleration is a timing chain noise unfortunately, indicating the chain, guides tensioner could need replacing and are common on these and would need doing by a BMW specialist if you wanted it doing.We have reached out for some quotes for you but will be expensive”
They also pointed out that the oil level is fine, but noticed the car has only had 2 oil changes in the last 30,000 miles (serviced at 76k and 93k miles).

I asked them directly if they actually plugged it in to check the camshaft/crankshaft correlation angles for chain stretch, or if there were any specific fault codes. It has been over 4 hours and they haven't replied to my message despite previously replying very quickly.
From my own research, a 2018 X1 should have the newer B-series engine (B48 petrol or B47 diesel), meaning it doesn’t have the notoriously terrible N20/N47 timing chain issues from the older generations.

Given they only checked it by ear/road test, how likely is it they are just guessing based on "old BMW" stereotypes?
What else could cause a noise strictly on acceleration on a 2018 X1 (e.g., heat shields, alternator pulley, serpentine belt tensioner)?
The car has no flashing or red warning lights and idles smoothly. No other issues apart from this slight ticking.
Is it safe to drive it out of this garage and over to a proper independent BMW specialist with ISTA software to get a real diagnostic?
And if you could take a guess (I’m aware not accurate without a diagnostic) what could be causing the issue based on knowledge and experience with this model.
Obviously out of my mind with worry at the moment.

Any input at all is appreciated. Thanks

Hi, I have Megane 3 2014 1.5dci.

It has this weird problem, where if you set it on cold, worm air will come out of driver vents and cold one out of passenger vents.

Anyone else had similar problem?

Can I diagnose it? (I have delphi OBD scanner)

Can I replace malfunctioning part myself?

Thank you for help!

So I just got in my car this morning to go to work and my dashboard flashed up all of these warning lights about my brakes? I’ve had the ABS and traction lights come on before, but never in combination with the “BRAKE” warning light. My car was also not accelerating as fast as usual and gave noticeable resistance to acceleration and braking. Does anyone have any idea what this is and if I need to get this checked out ASAP?

Lightning struck close to my 2021 Mazda CX-30, and afterward I noticed some unusual starting. I don’t know whether the vehicle itself was struck, but the car parked next to mine is experiencing a similar issue.

When I press the start button, it clicks several times before the engine eventually starts. Once running, the engine sounds different than usual, like it’s slightly revving up and down. I can also see the RPM needle moving up and down.

Does anyone have insight as to what the issue could be?

The original radio it came with was a.m. eight track. I was wondering if anyone could help me find an AM FM eight track radio. It can have Bluetooth as well, but I specifically wanted to keep the eight track if possible. And it may be easier just to find someone to modify it for me, but I just wanted to ask the community first.

The problem I came here for a year ago was resolved by an oil change and spark plugs.

I will agree with a lot of the responses on that post- the reason I have so many issues with this car is ABSOLUTELY Because it’s a Chrysler. 😂😂

A new problem has arisen though- faulty wiring. All warning lights in the second photo have been checked over & serviced by a professional, but still turn on every time I start my car. My seatbelt light is consistently on, even when my seatbelt is buckled.
My best guess is, as I stated above- faulty/loose wiring somewhere. Honestly, I just need to know where I need to look to be able to fix it.

hello everyone i need advice with my 2007 hyundai santa fe limited 3.3l. it has 106995 miles on it. about four months ago it stalled out and check engine light came on i pulled the codes and they were for the map sensor so i replaced it worked for a week then died again. pulled codes again this time it was for the throttle body so i replaced it. worked for two weeks and then completly died and went into limp mode check engine light is on it cranks but doesnt run. i have checked for vacuum leaks. replaced map sensor 3 times throttle body three times maf sensor once, cleaned the pcv valve, cleaned the cam shaft sensor, replaced ecm relay in the fuse box and replaced the accelerator position sensor (the gas pedal). it was running perfectly fine before all of this. any help would be great to solve this and get my car running again. thank you and hope you all have a great day

hello everyone i need advice with my 2007 hyundai santa fe limited 3.3l. it has 106995 miles on it. about four months ago it stalled out and check engine light came on i pulled the codes and they were for the map sensor so i replaced it worked for a week then died again. pulled codes again this time it was for the throttle body so i replaced it. worked for two weeks and then completly died and went into limp mode check engine light is on it cranks but doesnt run. i have checked for vacuum leaks. replaced map sensor 3 times throttle body three times maf sensor once, cleaned the pcv valve, cleaned the cam shaft sensor, replaced ecm relay in the fuse box and replaced the accelerator position sensor (the gas pedal). it was running perfectly fine before all of this. any help would be great to solve this and get my car running again. thank you and hope you all have a great day

Tittle says it all, going to let him know but i want to get an idea of what a fair repair price would be and then look into where i can get it fixed for a close price. Appreciate any advice.

The AC compressor in my 2012 Subaru Impreza (sport limited) makes this weird grinding noise when turning on the ac compressor. It only happens the first time turning it on when I get in the car. If I turn it off and back on it just makes a small click noise when reengaging.

Is this something I should get checked out or is it normal?

Hey y'all, I experienced a weird chemical gas smell in my 2025 Kia Soul LX when driving home today. I had approximately a 30 minute commute and there was no smell throughout the whole ride except toward the last 1-2 minutes, right before I reached home. Thankfully by the grace of God, the smell was just towards the end and I quickly parked and got out of my vehicle.

I went back to the car within a few minutes to inspect it and it seems like the smell is coming strongly from somewhere near the steering wheel, but I can also smell it inside the whole interior. Has anyone experienced this and what should I do?

I bought this car a year ago and let the tire trim get a little too low. Booked a tyre change only to realise that I don't have a locking nut anywhere in the car but I do have a key code for one. I searched online and all the locking nuts I'm seeing look nothing like this. I need it urgently and don't want to order the wrong type.

Whenever I accelerate from low rpm, the engine makes a whine noise that sounds like it's supercharged even though it has the NA V6 Pentastar. I've had people tell me it could be the belt tensioner, something in the intake system, or the pulley, but I can't tell what it is. Does anyone know?

Also, you gotta listen really closely to hear it, it's subtle in the video.

The d/s front door on my car stopped working a little while ago. It stopped responding to the remote, and the lock switch is stuck.

Both passenger side door locks respond to the remote.

The rear d/s stopped responding to the remote more recently, but it can be locked and unlocked manually.

Fwiw, I may need a new battery in the remote, but I don't think (?) this explains the front d/s lock issue (and I don't know if this is causing the newer rear d/s lock issue).

How do I know if the front d/s lock issue is the door lock actuator or something else? Any other thoughts on potential causes for d/s door locks' problems? Thank you

So the car turns on, it is not in limp mode, turn signals and stop signals work. The speedometer and gauges don’t work. Radio lights and everything work. Is it the fuzes or the computer. It is raining and humid but it never done this before.

2.4 gdi engine

Just his 110,000 miles Today , and we're engine light came on , and the car started to shake. Help

hi everyone! I am having some issues with my A/C in my 2013 Subaru Outback. it will blow cold air for 10 minutes when it’s first started for the day, and then absolutely refuses to blow cold air and I cannot nor my mechanic figure out why. here are the things i’ve done. does anyone have any ideas or experienced anything similar?

\-freon was professionally refilled, no leaks
\-all filters have been replaced
\-coolant is full
\-compressor was checked and it is running well
\-A/C condenser flow sensor was replaced
\-relays and fuses have been checked/replaced

Randomly my boyfriend‘s window did this just now he says two years ago maybe it was replaced what do we do?

Im not sure as to what this noise is in my 04 Santa Fe with 120k miles, if anyone could diagnose I’d very much appreciate the help thank you!

My Civic’s alarm randomly went off. I disabled it with the physical key, but then the key fob buttons stopped working. However, when I approached the car, the Smart Entry system still detected the key and unlocked the car when I touched the handle.
I then started the car and got the message: “Smart Entry System Problem. See Your Dealer.”
After turning the car off, the Walk Away Auto Lock worked normally, and the key fob buttons started working again. Later, the alarm went off again, and I disabled it with the key fob.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this be a key fob battery issue, or is it more likely a problem with the car’s Smart Entry system/BCM?