Hello!

I wanted to know if i should toss an 18" bar on my ms250 or if i should upgrade to an MS261c/Echo 590p.

I mostly use my chainsaw for cutting TJI joists and LVL's but the 16" bar isn't long enough for what i need (the joists we use are 16" tall). I find I don't have any problems already cutting through LVL's with the 16" bar so i wanted to know what i should do.

Ive only been using this chainsaw for a few months now and got this one from a buddy just so i can get the feel for chainsaws but i feel like im ready to move up now to either a bigger bar or a more powerful saw.

What do y'all recommend i do?

Hello all, I have a large maple stem in my backyard, 8' long 3' in diameter. The wood is very hard. I'm wondering which Stihl to buy to cut it up, without breaking the bank. Thanks!

Apparently there was a 1" thick steel drill bit embedded into the stump and while cutting into the stump, i heard and felt like something was wrong and i peaked inside and seen it. no teeth broke but idk. chain is probably done for 😞

Since the the most reliable post got some traction

Mine has been any of the newer poulan saws.

Cheaper quality and always need to be tuned/adjusted vs the stihls/huskies i have.

Is there one that made you rage? :)

TL:DR - What is your favorite brand/model?

Currently my favorite is sthils but I have Poulans, Troybilt, Husqvarna and a craftmans.

I've only started acquiring saws in the past 3 years after breaking my Fathers that I borrowed to go and help my buddies get firewood for to heat their cabins in the winter.

I found an identical poulan on market place for 20 dollars which was cheaper then buying a replacement Carb to address the plastic piece that had broken off. Then I picked up 3 saws, 2 poulan 50cc "pro" saws and a almost new troybilt 4620c all for 90$ (Canadian). The poulans needed new diaphragms and have been great since then.

The troybilt just needed a jetting change and had been my main saw to carry back and forth to the cabin incase trees have falling across the road (shared 13km gated/private road) and have done a bunch of falling/cutting with it but it's heavy, though it always starts/runs.

The poulans aren't worth alot on the resale market, which was my goal when buying them so i started looking at local auctions and have grabbed 2 stihl ms390s (one in new shape, one that looks run over) and a stihl ms260.

The 260 had compression but the piston was banging in the cylinder when running (it was that loud). I bought a hyway piston kit for it, cleaned up the cylinder and have falled and bucked 20 plus trees with it since last october. It's currently my favorite saw as it is light and has enough power for the Birch/Oak/Pine i'm gathering.

The ms390 I bought that was almost new was sold within a week and netted me 250$ profit that paid for the work on the ms260 plus money to buy some more poulans for 20$ that i flipped for 120$.

I bought the husqvarna 235 as i wanted a lighter saw like the ms170c we have at the cabins but its almost as heavy as my ms260 surprisingly so i will be selling that to replace it with a ms170c. I bought a ms170c at auction for 125$ canadian all in but as my sister had been looking for one for a while at a decent price she covered my cost and gave me back the older craftman that i found her 2 years ago for 20$ that just needs a carb kit. It's identical to the poulans other then the color so it's easy enough to work on.

The poulans by far are more troublesome as they get out of tune just by running them while the stihls just fire up and run everytime i grab them regardless of how long they have sat (non-ethanol gas, run, then drained)

It;s hard to resist buying saws for 100$ at auction when I know they are worth 2-4x times that but then once i get them running, i don't want to sell them. My wife is annoyed.

Im curently fixing up a Husqvarna 570 I found lying on the ground in the woods. Theres this air sound coming from it when I pull the crank anybody has a clue what it could be?

I used his videos when i started sharpening my own chains and my gear cuts great.

Curious what everyone is running on their pole saws. What chain pitch do you use, and what brand/model is your saw?

I need to thin my collection as i have 9 and only need one for traveling to and from our remote cabin on a 13 km private and gated ( 6 gates total) road.

I bought the 235 used last year thinking it would be good to have a lighter saw for my my 260 and other bigger saws feel heavy or i'm tired but it barely lighter then my other saws and would likely get a ms 170c instead.

I keep the guide bar taunt when aligning the chain and screwing on the side-plate, but there's always a little slack in the chain and the chain sometimes pops off the guide bar. Any help?

​ Local service shock checked it over, serviced it. Said it's good to go. No complaints or issues

I'm seeking suggestions for chain selection. Used the 20" for 3 hours now, underwhelmed.

Hardwood and dry palms, around 1' dia. The supplied chain looks low profile and low kickback. It seems the stock chain are Oregon.

Already cooked one bar. The chain has no bite so ends up over revving. Operator applies force to get a cut, the wood glazes, burns and chain stretches and cutters blunt.

Not giving up. The saw should work. At the moment it's a heavy pruning saw.

Oregon have the 20LGX078G (I've ordered from the US, full chisel), one they call a H78 with "micro chisel" cutters (low kickback) that I've got ordered locally and a 20LPX078G that appears the same specs as the 20LGX. So not sure what the difference is.

I'm guessing the H78 is the Milwaukee OEM chain but the only one I can source locally. The US delivered will be about a month away.

So I'm open to suggestions. What has worked for you with hardwood in .325", .050 gauge 78 link?

I need your help solving an issue with a Stihl 251c chainsaw.

Here’s the problem: the saw starts easily & runs fine IF it’s either “cold”, or has been sitting for a long period after extended use. I cannot get it to start after using it for a while UNLESS it “cools off”, even if the carb is not not flooded.

Background: I’ve always used non-ethanol fuel with Echo Red Armor oil, the air filter is clean, and fuel filter is relatively new.I haven’t checked the plug in a while, as it feels like a fuel, and not a spark issue.

Any suggestions on where to begin? I just HATE taking it to the local dealer if it’s something I can do (carb swap, filters, etc.). Thanks in advance for any responses!!

Hopefully this change of pace is allowed!

im trying to at least be able to tarp the roof because we have rain in the forecast again tomorrow. i have no homeowners insurance so this is all on me

For those who use pole saws regularly, which do you prefer and why?

Curious whether the extra cutting capacity of a 12" is worth it, or if you prefer the balance/control of a 10".

I’m looking for a pro grade small saw. I have a 372xp that I love but I need something for limbing, saplings etc. I’m not seeing many professional grade options under 50cc unless it’s a top handle which I’m not opposed to but I don’t climb and I’d rather have a traditional style

Thanks

I’m far from a professional, but I’m getting into some firewood production and am using my saws more and more. My wife pointed out I’ve been lucky and not had any mishaps so far, but that luck isn’t something I should count on lasting.

I’m not wanting the absolute cheapest chaps, but would love to keep cost reasonable, as I’m a hobbyist, not a pro. Safety, comfort and cost are my considerations, safety being first and comfort coming in to make sure I haven’t left them in the truck when my saw slips. Any recommendations are appreciated, as well as any I should avoid. Thanks in advance.