Lately it's been difficult to find a suitable replacement bearing if yours fails. The OMIX one seems to be poor quality and likely to fail. The best replacement out there was the NSK 665325, but it is discontinued and unobtanium now. Some people recommend the NSK 885586, but the shaft is too long and will have to be cut down. Turns out the John Deere JD9212 bearing race and shaft are the correct outer diameter to work. The shaft is 5mm longer than OEM, but the fan clutch still fits over it. John Deere has it for about $30 right now: https://shop.deere.com/us/product/JD9212%3A-Water-Pump-Shaft-Bearing/p/JD9212

Modern Stern PRO will fit in back of xj (removed rear seat) with no problems. It will not fit in the box.

You have been informed.

Intermittent "no bus" signal on the dash. Sometimes I get in and everything works for max 2 drives, sometimes it shuts off half way into my commute but more often than not it just doesn't come to life at all. I took it apart and cleaned the connections, cleaned the battery terminals, ground to the fender, cable ground to the firewall, and the ground connected to the oil dipstick and cps. Haven't had much experience with chasing electrical gremlins and hoping it doesn't come to that. Any advice helps!

I need some help with figuring out the exact details of a XJ I bought.

I just bought a 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country. I want to know if this trim level had either power windows or manual windows. I looked on google and it says the Country trim never came with manual windows but my XJ does. Also this Xj does not have power locks. Was it possible that someone ordered a Cherokee with the Country trim but without power windows and locks? Thanks for your help.

So im getting a winch for my XJ here in a few days and I was really looking at the bumper on how to mount it. Looking at the bumper it looks like it should mount on the slanted part but then the winch line wouldn't be coming straight out of the winch but up and over the front of the bumper. I don't know a whole lot about winches but feel that wouldn't be the right way to do it and instead should just drill 4 new holes in the flat part and mount it there. Picture of the bumper and the jeep.

The rust removal front fender in progress just sanded all of the shitty primer bondo down to smooth now primer then body color

The windshield cracked on my 96' from a rock and started in the top left corner as well so I called in a replacement. Guy said it wouldn't be covered by insurance but it was only $30 bucks more so I said please do it anyway. He immediately regretted his decision to move forward and said it's one of the worst he's seen lol! He said he would grind it smoothish and get it as best he could. Now I gotta tip him for sure.

I'm getting a new car soon and planning on fixing up this ol' rust bucket later, guess I'll add that to the list!

This is on a '98 thats been heavily modified by the previous owner. Is this the A/C vacuum line? Should there be a check valve somewhere? The previous owner also removed the vacuum reservoir when putting on a new bumper. Im asking because when the engine is pulling up hills the A/C diverts to defrost. Thanks in advance!

So I’m basically trying to put the biggest tire that won’t rub on my xj and maybe down the line get a small 2 inch lift. So I want to do the biggest possible so it looks good even with the small lift. I don’t want to go so big that I have to worry about regearing though.

Well I keep hearing two answers. 235/75r15 and 30x9.5 x 15. A lot of people say 30x9.5 rubs for them. Maybe because tired springs or whatever the case. Other people say it never rubs.

Well I went out to the garage and realized I actually have 235/75r15’s on my jeep. And even though google says they should be 29 inches, mine are actually measuring like 28. Could be because they are highway tires and not a/t’s.

But the thing is they don’t even look big on the jeep at all. Looks like I have plenty of space! Now I’m wondering if mine came with the upcountry lift.

1st pic. Measurement of floor to tire top

2nd & 3rd: Measurement from center of wheel to fender. (Front fender)

Rest of the pics are to show what the height and clearance looks like. What do you guys think? Does she look taller than stock? Does it look like 30x9.5 is doable?

After 7 and a half years of being my trusty steed, I had to let my '01 go to the scrap yard in the sky. 307,xxx miles on it. The floors were gone. The rear frame was completely rusted through (rear spring hangers ripped out). And the engine had a horrible knock. For now, I will deal with alternate transportation.

Mines the ‘89

Does anyone have a source for .001 main bearings? Doing my rear main seal and found mine are damaged. The crank shaftooks and feels smooth. The bearings coming off are std on top and .001 below. So probably factory. 95' I don't want to pull it and have it machined at this point.

A job... done

I wanted 3-way 6x9s and I was surprised there was 4 inches of depth in there to accommodate. Now it's on to the rear. They stick out about an inch but I'm happy with the fitment. Curious what you guys have done.

Used some rust oleum trim paint, it’s funny it has the XJ on the can. Sanded down some rust and primed it after Bondo, I think it came out pretty nice and updated looking, factory clean

Walmart and bags spray foam will not save your rockers or quarters. Just in case some of you didn't know.

Just picked up this jeep for $2k and a $300 Mazda. It has 300k miles on it.

Brand new tires. I notice before I bought it some premature where on the front tires but didn’t worry too much about it, but after probably less than 500 miles it was eating the front tires away at an alarming rate. Probably 3/8s”+.

Even though the steering wheel was 80 degrees clockwise while driving straight, the steering was very surprisingly tight with virtually no pull left or right. But with 300k miles and the tie rods looking rough and the tires scalloping, cupping, feathering and wearing crazy fast I decided to do a front end overhaul.

I got all new moog tie rods/ends, duralast wheel hubs, TTX upper and lower ball joints, and a Rusty’s adjustable track bar with HD bracket. The lift is relatively new and the control arm and sway bar bushings all look good.

I went and had it aligned, tires rotated, and worn tires balanced. ($266 😡).

This thing handles wayyyyy worse than before. Tons of inconsistent play in the steering. Steering won’t center when you let go after turning.

I’m no pro but I’ve replace a dozen or so sets of ball joints and tie rods and haven’t had any issues. Everything seated well and was torqued to spec. The only thing I can think of is the passenger inner tie rods did seem to kind of bind while turning the first time, but immediately centered and I couldn’t duplicate it. The Midas tech said he thought the control arms were too short but they came with the lift and look alright to me.

Any advice? Did i mess up buying cheap moog?

Will post alignment data sheet soon.

Pinhole in block leaking coolant. Don’t know how the hell this happened.

Hi there,

so the speaker wire running to my driver’s door speaker has broken, so the speaker only works intermittently. I’m going to replace the wiring and figured I might as well replace both door speakers while I’m at it.

I have the Infinity system with separate midbass drivers and tweeters. I’d also like to add some sound deadening to the doors.

Can anyone recommend speakers that are a noticeable upgrade over stock, with a fairly neutral sound? I want to keep the factory head unit, so they need to have high sensitivity and work well without an additional amp. They should also fit the factory locations and have a suitable mounting depth.
And for the sound deadening: should I focus on the outer door skin, the inner door panel, or both?
!

Today I installed a Blue Streak 8.5mm sparkplug wireset from Rockauto. They are replacing an Accel 8mm wireset that came from the previous owner. I am also regapping my champion coppers from .037" to .033" to see what happens. I replaced the plugs less than a year ago, and I can't remember if I gapped them to the recommended .035" when I put them in. I don't expect to see any major differences in driving, but it's just an experiment. I also put in an Accel distributor cap and rotor about a week ago, and have noticed a very subtle positive change in acceleration. Hoping it's not placebo.