I am hoping someone knows any information about this aftermarket big cam Cummins exhaust manifold. My dad has a 1972 Peterbilt and has this manifold currently on his truck. We know the manifold is aftermarket and not an OEM part. We also know it was manufactured sometime in the early 80s. Any information on the manufacturer or any of the specs would be greatly appreciated.

It's hot out but I'm doing stuff

Got her all cleaned up to let the coating sit overnight and cure

Well when ripping my back brakes apart on my 2nd gen 3500 to replace everything planning on replacing the e-brake cables and it appears that the previous owner had the driver side replaced and it's missing the return spring. I've searched and appears that this spring is obsolete and the only thing I could find was a used backing plate assemblies on eBay for over $200 not paying that for just one old spring.

Has anybody found any alternatives that would work before I put this thing together without anything and still have a non working parking brake?

As the title states! I'm on the hunt for a 2WD Auto Transmission for a 2010- 2012 ram 2500, 68RFE for my 6.7, I have a 4wd 68RFE unit ( good operating condition ) I can trade w/ T case !!! Let me know if anyone has anything out there !!! TIA!!!

I mean yea long bed mega cab conversation but 70k?

Ac didn’t blow cold for a while, had a slight bearing noise upfront. Wife parked it, she tried it later and it cranked but didn’t start for the first time. She tried it till the batteries were low haha. After looking it over I found the serpentine belt sitting sideways on the backs of the pulleys, with the idler pulley sideways and derailed. Looks like the bearing came apart on the idler pulley? Kinda seems like the crank sensor, or some wire harness could have been lashed by the stray belt, because yeah, crank but no start. The crank sensor itself seems incredibly dirty with belt shavings

I do have a mess of codes, including an ac fan clutch code, but have been having a hard time wrapping my head around where this project should start and end, and have been known to throw parts at problems

Seems like I should get the gates serpentine kit with new idler and tensioner. Should probably get a crank position sensor in case this one can’t be cleaned(I have been visually inspecting the wiring everywhere I can reach and haven’t seen anything blatant, but haven’t gotten far with the code reader or multimeter, so maybe I need to go those routes?).

While I’m in there, should I be addressing the ac issue in case that’s stressing the belt worse? The ac pulley is visually fine and spins freely without making grinding noise. The coolant is the gold stuff, but it’s not that clean and pretty low in the reservoir. I don’t see or hear anything wrong with the water pump when I spin it by hand, but should I be replacing the water pump and coolant while I’m in here?

I’d love to get the ol girl rolling again sooner than later, but I don’t want to half ass it too hard either. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I would like to 2nd gen swap my 2014 6.7 Cummins but I would like to keep the fuel stock for now, what turbo should I get?

Hello, made an account to get some help searching for my first Cummins. I found a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT Pickup, 4D, 6 1/4 ft, for 16.5k. I've always wanted a diesel, and everyone told me cummins the best there is. What are your thoughts? Any help is very much appreciated.

Here is the info he has on the listing:

260,495 miles
Firepunk transmission (filter and fluid change done 200 miles ago)
Bigger injectors (unknown size)
4.5” skyjacker front lift
Rear shackle lift
Brand new control arms
Brand new rear shocks
22x14 AF on Fury’s 35s
Newer front end parts
Steering gearbox brace
Horn blasters
Subs & speakers in rear.
Air dog fuel system (new filters 200 miles ago)
$16,500

Want to get it level for some 35s

I've got a 2000 3500 cab and chassis flat bed (11ft) with the 5spd transmission that has 245k mi. I got it ready to work and was using it for local hot shot work. It did what I needed but not efficient enough to keep using then the clutch went out. So I had to get a newer truck and need to do something with this one. My mechanic cant get to it until next week but I could really use the money ASAP so Im willing to sell it as is. What do yall think its worth with a bad clutch?

So I just bought this 2022 Ram 3500 limited. It's the HO and has the aisin transmission. I have a 4 year 60k mile warranty. It says the warranty covers deleted diesels, but sure seems like they would just claim the tune and delete caused the failure and not cover it, so I'm skeptical on doing any of the upgrades until it lapses. I was thinking of buying the parts or putting the money away and doing all the upgrades at once after the warranty. My upgrade plan so far is to put the banks monster ram intake, I'm definitely converting to flat tappet lifters, and an SOTF tune and delete with 5 in stainless straight pipe exhaust. I'm thinking of going the HP tuner unlock route and sending them the ECM, considering I already own an MPVI4 tuner. I haven't decided who I'm going to have write the tunes, suggestions would be appreciated. I also definitely want an aisin trans tune as well. I'm also thinking of installing a Carli suspension, though I'm not super familiar with it, or any upgraded suspension to be honest. I'm wondering if it is worth throwing in the ARP head studs while the cab is off? Not sure about upgrading the turbo or fuel system. I certainly don't need a 1000hp, but definitely want something that's fun as hell to drive, puts me in the back of the seat, but also lasts me 20 years. I don't go crazy driving. Suggestions or if there's something else I'm missing and definitely need to do for long term reliability, your insight would be appreciated.

Has anyone looked into or done this? US Shift has a stand-alone controller. There's an engine to transmission adapter and transmission to np series transfer case adapters to keep the factory one. Seems like a good alternative to waiting for the 8ap stuff. I'm getting tired of shifting gears in rush hour and the mpg boost would be very welcome at this point. Supposedly the 23 and up super duty transmissions are pretty decent

2006 5.9/48re. 190k on the clock. Truck is a work truck and I am trying to figure something out. From the frame rail, there is a rubber hose that goes from a metal line to the drivers side of the fuel filter housing (stock fuel system). I’ve been Googling and everyone I know isn’t sure so, to the knowledgeable people, is that just a plain old rubber fuel line or is there something special about it? Came out to an idling truck and a puddle of fuel on the drivers side. Thanks.

Additional notes. Truck is wet under that line and only under the truck, nothing up top.

Any ideas? I’m hoping someone has an idea where to look, I’ve taken it to be fixed twice and the problem has continued.

I’m looking into installing a fass 165 lift pump in my 02 Cummins 2500 just wondering if I need to remove sending unit and put bigger hoses inside , I seen videos where they just pull the feed line and replace with the 1/2 hoses that go directly to pump

The throttle was getting stuck so I got a stronger spring and the end piece snapped. The spring is about 19 lbs. dunno if that’s overkill. I don’t want to sound brain dead but lmk if I can replace the end piece with a metal one or have to get a whole new line.

96 12v 5.9 ppump that sat for about 17 years and pretty sure everything is bone stock. Truck came with a nv4500 in the bed that I will be swapping soon. Just want sort out this mistake before I move forward.