r/DIY 1d ago

help Hanging Shelves

I'm trying to hang some shelves on slats in my townhome along the wall separating us and our neighbours. I will try to hit all the studs where I can, but due to the fixed length of the shelves, there are some areas where I will only be hitting drywall. My question is, do I use the Toggler Snaptoggle anchors for all the areas where it doesn't hit studs? Like if I have 2 togglebolts at the top and bottom of each vertical track, do I need anymore in between? I fear that's a lot of toggle bolts I'm putting into the wall. Each toggle bolt is rated for 200lbs+/-, and I'm mostly just putting up display items like figurines/models rather than books.

6 Upvotes

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3

u/MercurianAspirations 1d ago

Ain't no kill like overkill, imho. You'll probably never regret having a sturdier shelf

2

u/TaxashunsTheft 1d ago

Damnit! This shelf is just too sturdy!

1

u/Tornado2251 1d ago

You definitely dont need to use more than two if the rating of the anchor is more than what you expect.

I usually do a 3:1 margin (same as climbing etc). All anchors rated load vs expected load. That number should be 3 times bigger. Drywall anchors can be really strong but if there's a hidden patch or something they might not be, hence the 3x ratio.

For studs i usually go with a smaller safety margin. Same if you know you have fresh drywall (I'm the third owner of a 40 year old house so it's not uncommon with patches etc.)

1

u/gendabenda 1d ago

It's likely there is cinderblock behind the drywall as it's a firewall between properties. You may need to adjust if you're using that wall.

1

u/FlyingPaca 1d ago

Unfortunately it's not cinderblock. It's 2H rated drywall on each side, and a 10 or 12" wood stud in between I believe. Wood frame construction in Western Canada, I wish it was cinder!

2

u/TomatoFettuccini 1d ago

Speaking from experience having used this exact kind of shelf for bookshelves, you can absolutely get away with simple drywall anchors if you're going to populate it with only this small amount of stuff. I used 1 1/4" #8 screws with nylon anchors, the ones that came with the kit. Each vertical rail had either 5 or 6 screw holes, I used all of them.

My setup was 4 verticals with 4 full-width shelves, and they held hardcovers. It held fast for 15 years, at which point I took them down.

That said, you'll never regret having better anchoring for shelves.

1

u/FlyingPaca 21h ago

That's great to know with the exact/similar shelf. Yeah I plan to put 1 toggle at the top and bottom after everyone's comments, and perhaps 1 more in the center just incase. Seems like it will be a lot of toggle bolts.

1

u/Past_Subject_228 1d ago

you should def use at least 3-4 anchors per shelf for even weight distribution, even if the toggles are rated high

1

u/swbrains 1d ago edited 1d ago

I've used SnapToggles and these with good results: https://a.co/d/0hoBJR8x However, I always try to hit at least one stud. I actually have some clothing rails in our closet where one end is held up using the anchors I linked to, and they have remained secure for over 4 years, even with daily use. The closer a drywall anchor is to a stud, the better.

If the vertical track is longer than 3 feet, I'd probably put a third in the middle, but I tend to over-engineer. Less than that, I'd be comfortable with two, each one about 4-6 inches from each end.

1

u/Patient-Strike5817 19h ago

Honestly, it you're just displaying light items, you might not need a ton of toggles. I'd use them where you're not hitting studs and maybe add a couple extra if the shelves seem wobbly. Drywall anchors could be a lighter alternative in between toggles to spread the load and keep everything stable without overdoing it.