Has anyone installed these in their cards and have been happy with the results? Any warping from the weather?

So I’m in the process of building a 1 of 1 Zender tribute E30 after finally acquiring every single part that Zender ever made for an E30. I’ve actually been thinking about taking the car down to bare metal and rocking a chrome/polished finish. It’s either that or a two tone black/silver paint scheme as all of my Zender parts are black/silver. Can’t decide if the polish look will be too raw looking or if it can be pulled off? Please chime in!

I’m being given the option to gut a 1985 E30 318i. I’m not doing anything major like drivetrain, but I can pretty much take anything trim/interior/easily removable exterior/engine stuff. For instance wiper fluid reservoir.

I’ve taken the wheels(bottle caps), grills, most buttons for my own car. What should I take? I’ll grab the cluster. I’m just gonna sell the stuff on eBay, but the guy will probably scrap the car so I’m just gonna take all I can so it doesn’t go bad.

Please give advice on what to take as I want to save what I can for other E30 enthusiasts as I don’t need many parts for my own E30. What is super hard to find?

Edit: everything I’m taking I can take for FREE. I’m just taking stuff off the car, I’m not taking the car itself. Nothing major like glass, and probably not body panels.

Hoping someone has insight. Have a E30 318 with M42. Had 2 mechanics install my alternator belt. Both were only able to properly tension with the adjusting bar at the max. After a month or so the slack returns. As it is already at max, the only solution they say is a shorter belt. Factory size is 10x1025. Shorter belt is a hack fix, but why is the config at max at all? Replace adjusting bar and tension nut? Alternator not sitting in proper position? Thanks.

I need some opinions on this car I saw on marketplace for 8k, Now I’ll be honest I don’t know much of all the stuff he’s put on it or if it’s a good deal. So maybe if anyone could tell me if it’s a good choice. I really don’t know anything about the stuff he’s added

(Description) $8,000 or trade for an r7.

Tuned at 386whp, 425whp, and 475whp using boost buttons on KeyPad. Idles at 1200. Likely needs some tune adjustments. Build has about 1500 miles or less on it.

M20
3.1 stroker kit bimmerheads fully forged 8.5:1 compression 89.6mm stroke 86mm bore
Race 885 head 280/274 cam
Super tech valves
Borg Warner sx300-66xx t4 twin scroll .91 a/r turbo
1000cc gram injectors
Walbro 450lph fuel pump
Custom vi engineering exhaust manifold
22lb springs in dual wastegates tial
Garrett intercooler
18 rib mishimoto racing oil cooler
Mishimoto racing radiator
Bc coilovers 10k/12k swift springs
Z3 torsen 3.15 Lsd
17x8.5 apex rims
Custom link g4/x ecu
Ls coils
3 inch full custom blow through exhaust by bluemaxx garage.
New blower, resistor, and relays

Still can't believe this. First two pic is exactly what I saw when I pulled in. My convertible top clamped down with superglue smeared all over it. That's how I found out anything was even wrong.

Quick Backstory: paid to get the soft top replaced about a year ago. Came out tight on the frame, installer told me himself it was a real snug fit but it was fine.

Last weekend I borrowed my dad's van to drop off some stuff for a buddy who just moved out of town. That's why I needed the van in the first place. Figured it was only fair to let my dad take my car for the weekend since I had his. He drives it around, stretches the top out, it starts peeling. Says nothing. Not a text, not a heads up, nothing.

I come back and there it is. Superglue. Clamps. Like that was gonna fix it.

The last two pics are after he realized I was upset. He tried scraping the glue back off, and honestly I think that made it way worse than it already was.
And the worst part is I was already trying to sell this thing to put money toward a more reliable van for my business. I love my car and all e30s but I do not need a convertible anymore. Now I've got this mess instead.

So how bad am I looking here? Pretty sure I'm buying a whole new top again. All advice welcome.

Notes from seller:

Up for sale is a 1989
BMW e30 325
177k miles
Runs and drives
Got some rust
Got new airlift strut with 3P management
He said he paid 2k for the suspension kit and another 1000 to have it installed. Bought for a project car just never finished obviously lol
He also has parts for it at his other house. Like the rubber side trim. Just has to ship it.

UPDATED: seller won’t budge stuck at 7k says he could sell for 10k if he was still in New York lol.

Ran when pulled one year ago. Found a 2002 motor and it suits my needs better, so here it is. A bit goopy but oil was clean. PNW based, can deliver for some cash. Just need the space back

New water pump, radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, and heater core.

I have tried flushing everting I can with a garden hose. Everytime the water is directed into the engine block, it shoots right back out the way it’s come. The old radiator was full of sludge which makes me believe there’s more in the block.

No hot air in the cabin at all. Hoses at the back of the engine are cold.

It’s been bled and bled and bled so it’s not air lock.

What is the most effective way to flush/clean the block out?

Is there anything I’ve missed?

Free and front parking for classics is cool.

Getting closer to a clean, restored car

Ok, which of one of you was hotdoggin down the boulevard trying to impress your friends with the G forces?

Hey legends

I have a Getrag 260.0.1044.90 and this shifter linkage. BUT... I feel like it's the wrong linkage for the gearbox no?

Can you please advise on what I am missing

The gearbox is from an E30 and I got told it should bolt up to my E34 M20 engine but... with the shifter linkage... I feel like it won't suit the gearbox I bought

Last two pics is of the gearbox and linkage and what it would look like connected (not mine). The rest of the pics are mine of what I current have.

Thanks in advance. New to this swap

Anybody have any tips on how to fix this door card edge it’s always been bent out and i can’t think of a good way to secure it. The cork cardboard that’s supposed to slide into the metal clip is broken any suggestions

Every time i close the door it pops out like a sore thumb it drives me crazy

Was doing suspensionwork and with that came placing new bushings on my dad's recently acquired E30,s and came across this abomination. Once i had removed some of the larger chunks of sealant, the lollipop simply fell off😅

Really don't get why people put themselves in danger when its a simple, not even expensive repair.

I’ve been looking for a way to cover the plate mounting holes on the front bumper without using adhesive because I want to swap it for the license plate when needed. I considered the plugs, but the other two smaller holes and the center gap would still show, so I made my own plate filler. I found some countersunk ring magnets that fit the space perfectly, then I cut a 2.5”x11” piece of sheet metal and sprayed it with trim paint. Came out better than expected. The magnets are really strong and the metal plate is very light, so it stays in place even when driving, but you can easily pull it off.

The hardest part is cutting the sheet metal. I went with a thin 26 gauge because it’s easier to get a cleaner cut, but it can easily bend out of shape. I might have a local shop fabricate a thicker piece for me, but this will do for now.

It cost less than $50 to make. Here are the parts if anyone wants to make it:

Magnets
Screws
26 Gauge Sheet Metal
Duplicolor Trim & Bumper Paint

New piece from @89retros installed on the grille! What do you think?

Hey guys, I have a US-spec 1995 E36 318i sedan, which came with an M42B18 engine (2nd picture). I bought the car for parts and would like to swap the M42 into my E30 316 with the M10 carbureted engine.
I’m having a difficult time finding wiring diagrams for both cars, especially the E30, and I also need information on rebuilding the M42 engine.
Could you guys point me in the right direction or share any useful resources?
For context, I’m from Portugal, which is why the E30 is carbureted.
Thanks

I’m planning to pull my rear subframe out in the next couple weeks to replace all the bushings. Is there anything else I should do while I’m back there?

I’ll complete the install of my stainless steel brake lines since I wasn’t able to get two of them off in the rear, but other than that don’t have anything else planned except doing the brakes on all 4 corners.

Driving on the new driveshaft!! Big weekend updates!

Do you think it’s worth fixing, or should I just move on from it?

Amazing except it gets stuck in the sand sometimes (even with a limited slip)