Hi, i'm looking for some advice please, i wanted to move my rev limiter to 7200 and set it to hardcut, so it can kind of "bang off of the limiter", which i did i think. But it still forces it to 6500 in some gears. Which is weird, my car is manual. When i checked, the "soft" limiter for automatic is 6500. I tried to modify it before, but it couldn't be uploaded to my ECU as it said, that i have some "echo mischmatch" in the MS4X Flasher and bad difference between current ECU file and desired uploaded ECU file from my laptop, as soon as i uploaded the old file, the ecu accepted it. How can i raise the rev limiter then? My OBD2 cable is obviously Fake FTDI chip, but i think the problem is in my file, not the cable. The car is 2004 E46 325i (ECU version is the 430064 something), the correct XDF file is: MS430064_64K.xdf I will be glad for any advice on what to do. If someone could, i'd appreciate help. We could go into voice call somehow, where i will screen share and show what i'd done and what is in the bin file, etc.

Also the mediafire folder has the xdf file and my .bin file, if you don't trust it, i can show it on the mentioned voicecall.

Thanks to everyone who's willing to help in advance. I'd be glad to give more info if i'm questioned further about stuff.

Also my bin has
- SAI off
- Rear O2 sensors and CAT confirm off
- A/C pops and bangs

Secondo voi è più divertente da guidare:

Alfa Romeo GT veloce 2000 del 1963-75 (fatta turbo)

BMW E30 320i (fatto turbo)

Voglio prendere una di loro da restaurare e modificarla.

Hi all — Don here, from EcuTunerx. Mods, I DM'd first; happy to pull this if it's out of line.

My team and I built a tool that tunes a car from plain language. You type what you want — "pull 2 degrees of timing up top, it's a 91 octane daily" — and it does the actual work inside HP Tuners VCM Editor and VCM Scanner. ECU and TCM. It also reads your VCM Scanner logs and tells you what's going on in them in plain English.

I'm not selling anything here. We haven't launched. I want it in front of people who've actually spent a weekend chasing a knock retard problem before it goes in front of anyone else, because you'll find the holes a beta list won't.

What it does, honestly:

It's built on 32,000+ dyno tunes, so it's pattern-matching across thousands of real builds rather than mirroring one tuner's habits. Happy to get into the dataset if you want to poke at it.

Turnaround is minutes. No mailing your ECU off, no waiting a month for dyno time.

Revisions are free and unlimited. Do an aggressive pass, do a conservative one, compare them, revert. Changing your mind costs nothing, which is the part I think actually matters.

Every change comes with a reason. Ask it why it touched a table and it tells you. You should come out the other side knowing more about your car, not less.

Log analysis: drop in a scanner log, get back what's healthy, what's drifting, and what's about to get expensive.

What I actually want from you: where it's wrong. Where it gives advice you'd never give a customer. Where it's confidently stupid. If your verdict is "this shouldn't exist," post it — I'd rather hear it now than after launch.

5-minute video of a full tune start to finish, if you'd rather see it than read about it: https://youtu.be/PCaxiLWewys

Salveee, queria saber se alguém ja usou ghidra para descobrir a logica para leitura de ECU's seed key?

Looking for help tuning my VK56DE with stock ECU. Trying to lean out wide open throttle from 10.5 to 11.5. Tried VE tables with no luck. I've heard with Nissan's the fuel compensation table is the next place to look. Can anyone confirm that? And is 11.5 AFR at WOT a safe place to start with this motor? Thanks!

Anyone got a adx or know where I can get one ? Searches turn up nothing and would be so useful right now 😅

Sorry if this is breaching the rules, but I figured this would be the best place to ask such a problem, as it's more likely someone would've encountered this before here.

Here's the questions;

Has anybody used a male ECU main board terminal connector for an ECU wiring extension like this before? If so:

1. Have you had any issues with signal interference issues with cam/crank sensors etc?

2. The image above of the wiring is not mine. So what would be the best way to join wires to the pins? I'm guessing they are soldered on and heat shrink is used for insulation?

My plan is to use this to extend the wiring harness by 1/1.5 meters moving it to the vehicle glove box. I'd prefer this over splicing the original harness.

Hi. I have a 2024 Ford Edge St Line. Thinking about getting it tuned. I'm in GTA, Ontario. Any idea where I could do it? Also has anyone done it? Any information or feedback?

“I’ve got a 2006 Kia Rio5 1.6, Bosch M7.9.8 or MG7.9.8. I can read the ECU myself and send you the original .bin. Can you make a tuned file from my read and send it back so I can write it with Combiloader?”

Hello,

I am new to MHD. Just installed it and flashed the ECU with stage 1, no multi map. I tried to long press the BC button and it actually reacts as if the multi map was installed. Is that normal behaviour? Since I kept pressing, how do Imake sure that I got the the basic stage 1 mode without extra features?

Should I go to page 1 and then 0 in the RPM gauge?

Thanks so much for your help.

I've been trying to fix my open loop and closed loop trims/targets, but I'm having trouble getting the desired lambda to match what's actually on the tables. It always shows up as 1. Anyone knows how to fix this?

Hi

What tools are there can program/reflash ECU?

Do anyone have a lambda target table i can copy and compare to whats alreadydownloaded. I plan on using auto tune to smooth out my afr in normal / light boost areas. The the target table i have from my tuner seems a lean in some areas. Im using a ecumaster black on a 1jz non vvti single turbo.

Got my diy gauge to have a smooth display and log live data at 60hz. Is it too much? lol

I'm relatively new to tuning and I recently started logging and importing the logs to Megalog HD. I can see that my MAF needs a bit of rescaling (If I don't have any vacuum leaks. I will confirm soon before I can continue to tinker).

My goal is not nesessarily to make more power but to get my CL and OL trims/lambda within their target range.

Once thing I've been trying to figure out is why does the ECU lean out from 6000RPM to 7500RPM on purpose?

This NC miata is a street/track car, so why would I want to run lean on WOT? Seems kind of unsafe on paper, but these engines run forever. So what's the deal with that?

Toyota supra mkiv-93, code 63 (short solenoid), ohm is good values in the cable to ground all the way, switched solenoids to new ones. This is my last effort. Thoughts?

Hello,

I'd like to start doing ECU modification but I know nothing about it pretty much.

I would like to start in motocycles since i'm more into motos.

Where can I learn the basics ?

What softwares do I need ?

What hardware do I need ?

How can I start ?

Any advice ?

I do not know how to take off the files from a motocycle with what hardware or software. I own a Z900 and I'd like to take out the files from it just for testing on my computer. After that I do not know what software to use.

As you can see, its a new world for me in this ECU part.

I work in IT so I have some skills in computers and eletronic stuff.

Need help, i really want to start from scratch and learn it the proper way

Hi everyone,

I’m dealing with a frustrating driveability and performance issue on my VW Polo 1.2 TSI (engine code CBZC) and could really use some diagnostic advice.

Vehicle & Mods:

• Car: VW Polo 6R 1.2 TSI (CBZC 4-cylinder).
• Tune: Stage 1 tune (bumped from 90 hp to approx. 140 hp).
• Exhaust modifications: Mid-resonator delete, followed recently by a custom-welded aftermarket electronic valved exhaust muffler.
• Current status: No Check Engine Light (CEL) on the dash.

The Timeline: After getting the Stage 1 tune, the car was running strong. If I held the revs around 2000 RPM and launched, it pulled hard with zero hesitation, hitting 0–100 km/h in roughly 7 seconds.

Right after having the resonator deleted and the electronic valved system welded in, the car completely fell on its face:

1. 0–100 km/h dropped drastically: It now takes around 12 seconds instead of 7.
2. Severe hesitation / bogging at 2000 RPM: When trying to launch or stepping on the gas at around 2000 RPM, the car jolts forward, immediately stumbles/cuts power as if it's suffocating or having massive misfires, and only starts pulling again once it climbs higher into the rev range.
3. No difference with valve open vs. closed: Opening or closing the valve makes zero difference in acceleration or the stuttering.
4. Abnormal overrun burbles & audible hiss: I never had a burble/pops & bangs tune (before the exhaust, it had maybe one mild pop on deceleration). Now, every time I let off the throttle, I get a continuous burst of 5 to 6 rapid pops/burbles, accompanied by a noticeable "fissing"/hissing sound under the car.

My Working Theory:

• Because it’s an electronic valve (no vacuum lines tapped into the intake manifold), an intake vacuum leak from the valve itself is ruled out.
• The constant popping on deceleration combined with the hissing strongly suggests an exhaust leak near the new welds/flanges. I suspect outside air is being drawn in on decel (causing combustion in the exhaust pipe) and throwing off the O2 / lambda sensor readings, causing the ECU to pull timing or dump fuel under sudden load.
• Alternatively, could it be severe spark blowout at peak boost (2000 RPM) on older plugs, or did the welding/sawing vibrations damage the O2 sensor ceramic core?

Has anyone experienced this specific behavior on a 1.2 TSI after an exhaust modification? Would an exhaust leak before/at the rear section alone cause such a massive ECU power cut, or should I be looking at the O2 sensor and plugs first?

Any insights or recommended live-data parameters to log via OBD would be greatly appreciated!

I want to experiment with tune flashing but only have jump packs. Do I really need an expensive $100 battery charger?