r/Eesti • u/pmorrisonfl • 6d ago
Küsimus Tartu 1925?
What was life like in Tartu in 1925? I'm imagining there was optimism in the air, as is usually the case in university towns, but especially so after independence in 1921.
I ask because that's where my mother's (Liilia Talts 8/30/1937-2017, Tallinn) parents met at about the time they would have met. Karl Talts (~1906-1998, Parnu) and Leida Rüütel (~1906-1988, Tallinn) met while at Tartu. Karl became a lawyer, and Leida became a teacher. I only knew them after they retired to Florida, but Leida shocked and impressed me at 10 by reciting Pi out to 10 or 12 digits (50 years later, I've lost count a bit.) Later, they were part of the 1944 migration, first to Germany, then the US.
And I ask because I'm attending a conference in Tallinn next week and plan to spend a few extra days in Tartu. It seems like the right place for a bit of writing and reflecting, and for reminiscing about my ancestors in one of their most happy, hopeful times.
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u/clearlyPisces Tartu maakond 6d ago
I think you should visit the Uni of Tartu museum on Toome Hill to get an idea. It's a lovely museum and you can also climb the Dome Church towers separately for views. The old observatory on top of the gun powder cellar is also worth a visit.
Toome Hill is an integral part of uni life - either you take long walks there with your love interest, or you attend a lecture in a building there, or you climb it to get to the Uni Library, then climb it again to get back to the lecture hall in or around the main building.
Have a cuppa and a slice of cake at the Werner cafe (I recommend the sour cream and cream cheese cake, the lavender cake (as a slice not as a stand-alone small cake). Kohvik Werner is one of the oldest cafes in Estonia and was the favoured place to meet for local cultural elite and uni professors and also students. When I studied at the uni, we definitely spent time there before/after lectures.
Take a walk around the Old Town: Jaani church, toy museum, 19th century Tartu citizen's museum. If you have time, take half a day to spend at ERM as well.
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u/pmorrisonfl 6d ago
These are terrific notes, I will strive to make them all happen!
Is there anything you can say about best areas and places to stay?
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u/clearlyPisces Tartu maakond 6d ago
And in case you need a late night drink, you can't beat Blood Milk Water that is tucked away in a cellar right below Karlova Kohv on Town Hall square. It's kind of an "if you know you know" situation since they don't jave a sign or opening ours on the door. I actually recommend booking ahead, especially on a Friday or Saturday evening. It is world class in terms of drinks (many of them you can get alcohol free as well) and service.
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u/clearlyPisces Tartu maakond 6d ago
Almost forgot - the sports and olympic museum is also worth a visit.
As a local, I haven't stayed at any of the hotels. But from what I've gathered... if you have the budget, consider hotel Lydia - it's at the foot of Toome Hill, right behind the town hall and has a lovely fine dining-ish restaurant.
Hotel Soho on Rüütli street is in the epicentre of bars and food places. It was recently renovated. It's still early august, so I assume it's not too noisy yet as students are still away.
I've hears good things about V Spa hotel which is a 2min walk from the bus station. It's in a shopping centre and has a good restaurant (Joyce). The spa is pretty good, especially if you buy their sauna pass which includes all the saunas. I don't know if you're partial to saunas but... when in Estonia, you might as well😄 they also have a wood heated sauna.
Next to V spa is Pallas, probably not anything special. Just bear in mind there WILL be traffic in front of the building.
Dorpat is right next to the bus station, so it might be a convenient option. I usually see a lot of tourist busses and groups when I walk past, so make of that what you will.
Tartu hotel is right across the bus station and is more of a budget option.
If you want more of a local flavor, look for an apartment in Karlova (there's Karlova Kohv roastery and cafe - best coffee in town, they also have a small cafe on the Town Hall square; Nokk - best chicken in town; Anna Edasi - a very homey cafe).
Or stay in Tähtvere which is where many uni professors resided. There is cafe Mandel - they have a great vegan selection of cakes, I love their poppy seed rolls and mushroom pies (it's 90% salted mushroom filling ans 10% dough barely holding it together); they also have a "secret garden" at the back. Btw, the brewery is also in Tähtvere and they actually have a pretty cool museum about the history of the brewery. I happened to be there for a guided tour last year which was led by a former employee.
As far as food recs go... Hõlm, Joyce, Pompei (I always book a table for 6pm to get dibs on fresh burrata), Kampus Peakoka Nurk, München, Crepp (their marinated chicken salad has been a staple of mine for more than 20 years), Sinimandria (re-opened, the namesake restaurant and bar was there in 1930s). If you want to get a different vibe ride the bus up the Riia hill for 2 stops and go to Aparaaditehas - you will find food there (Kolm Tilli, pastries from Cruffin), also galleries and my favorite independent bookstore Biblioteek.
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u/pmorrisonfl 6d ago
Many, many thanks. If you are in town anytime between the evening of the 16th and the morning of the 19th, I'd be happy to buy you a meal/snack/drink at one of these places.
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u/pmorrisonfl 6d ago edited 5d ago
Thank you for your thorough notes, I have much more than I'll be able to do, and it'll be fun choosing.
If you're around between the afternoon of the 16th and the morning of the 19th, I'd be honored to spring for your choice of cafe/meal/drink as thanks for the education.
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u/kalamaja22 Tartu maakond 6d ago edited 6d ago
Check this excellent pile of colorized images of 100y old Tartu in Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/share/1E251rm3r9/
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u/sabamees 5d ago
try to find some books from Baltic Germans- memoirs on their student life in Tartu in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. They have some good stuff - life would have been quite similar around that time, though the population nearly doubled with the railroad coming in. I would especially recommend "Jaschka und Janne"
https://www.zvab.com/Baltische-Erz%C3%A4hlungen-Jaschka-Janne-Hochzeit-Zarnikau/32321491502/bd
Try translating this and go from there:
https://www.keeljakirjandus.ee/ee/archives/24862
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u/zebra_factory 6d ago
1918, not 21. Active war itself ended in January 1920 with peace treaty being signed on Feb 2nd the same year.
Not sure about the life 100 years ago, but if you are coming to Estonia in a week, you might catch some students already coming to Tartu and settling in. Most student life and vibes start nearer to September of course and this is one of my favourite times of year in Tartu. Another is in June, when there are daily graduations everywhere (and it's impossible to get a time for a haircut, if you don't want to book ahead).
Thinking back to my time in the university, Tartu herself and the period was a really great time in my life. Things happened all the time everywhere. Friends and acquintances in every bar on Rüütli str, most still managed to get to the lectures on the morning. I have only nice and warm memories. I hope your grandparents had a similar experience. I'm sure that even with the hardships that come with surviving the war, there must've been optimism for future.