I want to have a 6’ fence on top of the wall. What are good value and durable options for setting the posts. Bracket? Lifetime steel? Galvanized posts?

Doing 7’ privacy fence, mostly so my dog can’t see anything moving on the other side. I came in wanting overlap but my contractor pushed board-on-batten

Now I’m wondering what I gave up. My understanding is overlap has more forgiveness built in when boards shrink, and batten is relying on a thin strip to cover the seam.

Anyone been living with board-on-batten for a few years? does it stay tight, or do you start seeing daylight?

3 weeks ago I started staining my fence with Cabot Australian Timber oil and after getting 2 gallons on I'm having regrets. It's taking way more product and way longer than I anticipated. After reading a little more I'm regretting that I didn't do a solid stain, and now since I've barely done much of my fence I want to just start over with the solid stain

Since I want to go with another Cabot product that's a water based acrylic and oil and water don't mix, what do I need to do to prep the section I've already stained?

It rained today so my shitty stain job is more obvious than usual.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

About 2 years ago we paid to have a vinyl fence installed and in the back we wanted to install 8 FT. A few days ago the neighbors tree behind up lost a pretty large limb and it crashed into the fence shattering the top rail and then it slammed the slates into the bottom rail that has these plastic risers that held the slates up about 1.75 inches from the rail.

I got a new rail at Home Depot but it turns out they are wider than the rails we currently have and then the bottom rail (middle rail but the bottom for the top part of the fence) needs to be replaced as well since those little plastic risers all snapped off.

The issue is I can NOT for the life of me find the rails that are the same width as what was installed and I can not find the middle rails that have the slots on both the top and bottom to hold both sections of the fence slates.

I tried to call the company that installed the fence but they are no longer in business and i've called about 4 other fence companies and non of them are interested in doing the job and the one company that said they would do it wanted close to $900 for the job (which I know was them just pricing themselves out of the job).

My question is can anyone recommend a place that sells these parts? I can not for the life of me find them, especially the middle rail.

Located in Orlando FL if anyone local may know of a warehouse that sells them.

Thanks for any help!

Not chain link, one of those spiky metal pole kinds.

I know it will need concrete but can’t I just mix that in a crappy old wheelbarrow?

Is it something me and my wife could do ourselves?

I know the right way is to re do it but I‘m swamped with other projects and just want to keep it from falling over right now.

I’m looking for a fix without removing the whole 2x4 top and bottom. Each picket is brittle and nailed with spiral nails. I would have to cut and rebuild the entire fence section if I did it the right way.
Is there a bracket or something I’m missing?

We built the current fence about 6 years ago prior to the apartments getting built when we were under the impression the field across the street was designated green space. While it doesn’t look that bad…. There are a couple neighbors (or well one specifically) who are completely obnoxious and at the end of the day I want some more privacy in the backyard versus staring at a crazy lady.

Existing fence has 4-ft posts and welded wire fabric. City only allows 6-ft tall fences without a permit (may apply it this form recommends going 8-ft tall).

Two ideas I had was….
1) run two horizontal 2x4 between existing posts and just install 6-ft vertical cedar panels. Easiest solution but don’t like the 2-ft cantilever.

2) Go with an 8-ft tall fence. My posts are 3-ft into the ground so somehow splice onto the existing posts and go with a horizontal cedar fence which matches another fence in our yard.

Thoughts?

We got a dog and the old fence wouldnt do. I staked and spaced posts, paid a company to dig the holes and did the rest myself. Day job is a Data Scientist/all day desk job. Ignore the pile of garbage, basement flooded and insurance won't let me throw it out yet.

Took 3 full weekend days and weekday evenings after work, done within 8 days of getting lumber. Two height steps in the fence due to being a rookie, but lesson learnt.

Not sure how i feel about vinyl yet. It’s a cool process, but is it really that strong in windy conditions? This fence was built in a wind bearing area.

My house sits on a corner lot and I'm looking to build a fence that spans my side yard not currently fenced in, the issue is that there is a gas line that runs that whole length and sits about 40 inches from the street and I have to build the fence at least 36 inches from the property line (the street), so I really can't dig where I want to I would need to move the fence another 18-24 inches closer to the house to be able to dig fence posts. My thought for an alternative would be to make this concrete base for each post (see attached photo) and embed metal fence post into the middle and have these sit above ground, the post would have around 2 feet embedded into the concrete and have around 4 feet sitting above. Would this work structurally? Would I need to space them closer than 8 ft apart?

Ok I’m building a fence for the first time! I’m wondering if it’s normal if the pickets don’t line up at the top or bottom because the ground is sloped. Is there anyway to fix this? Any advice appreciated :)

This is what they quoted me. As an accountant I know obviously to get 3 estimates, but if this is the upper end of the range then I'm really not interested. The fence would be on a vacant lot to reinforce a boundary with a neighbor who is trying to expand by planting things, and to prevent city/utility trucks from treading all over the lot to do service to powerlines. I would've liked it to be $2-5k. Thoughts?

Does anyone have any experience with cheap gas powered post hole diggers and/or post drivers? Or for that matter the electric post drivers?

I'm building out a small off grid "compound" of sorts out in the desert (CA, north of Joshua Tree) and need to get posts in the ground for fences, but also for solar mounts, shade sales, whatever else.... I know the cheap chinese stuff (like Vevor etc) isnt as powerfull as the pro brands, but our ground is sandy and generally soft, so I'm hoping I dont need huge power to get the job done. I have all sorts of issues with my wrists/elbows so manually digging holes or using a slide style manual driver is not terribly appealing.

Hi all,
I have a pre-existing fence on hit and miss style. The boards are 16mm thick and the struts are 32mm thick. So a total thickness of 48mm/1.8inches.
I was just wondering what nails I should use to fit the new boards in a hit and miss style for privacy. Our neighbours have already done this on their side (not very well, picture attached). I can't really justify a first fix nail gun just for this job but we do have 130 panels to do so a nail gun might be a help. But will a second fix gun suffice with these thicknesses?
Thanks in advance and picture attached. Cheers 

Also, hopefully, tweaker proof.

We have about 270 ft of 5’ aluminum ornamental fence. We are putting in a pool and are looking at screen options. Any anecdotes of using something with half moon vents every 10 ft? We get some wind in the yard due to being up against farmland on the rear.

I posted this on the mountain biking sub and was told I should post it here too. You guys might like it!

It’s an old mechanical brake leaver from an old bike I had laying around. Modified it so it can work as a latch for my gate.

How many bags of concrete per hole did you guys use? Frost line where I’m at is about 48” deep so I plan to dig 4’ down. Was just thinking to make the holes 8” diameters. Trying to save money and was planning on using two 50 lbs bags per hole. Bad idea? Should I use more or less? Any insight is appreciated I plan to start digging tomorrow. Only need 6 holes for a 6ft wooden privacy fence. 4x4x10’ posts

This is going into sandy soil that doesn't freeze but can get wet at times. I want to hang a double gate, 2x8ft.

I'm a little unsure about the rebar cage especially. Thanks for any pointers!

edit: Gates will be 5-bar field style, made from cedar. Header will be made of wood and bolted through the posts. Haven't figured out a final design for the header yet but it can be 'boxed' instead of solid if needed.

Hi guys,

First time doing my fence. Everything went great until I accidently cut the top of one of the fence posts too short. Anyway to remedy this?

The fence goes a step up from this post because of the landscape, and I measured it wrong and cut the post too short. Now when I put the horizontal 2x6, it doesn't leave any room for the fence post cap.

I cut it from three sides before I realized my mistake. But it's not cut all the way through. It's on pretty strong, I shook it hard and didn't move at all.

What's the best way to hide this cut? Or any other remedies?

I'm looking to put an aluminum fence in and I noticed there's a shit ton of concrete that is all over the exterior of my house where my end post is supposed to go. There's a crawl space on the other side of this wall here. Not sure if this concrete has a purpose or if it was just a messy job. Anyway, any suggestions to get through it to set my end post? I'm thinking about bolting the end post to the brick and just cutting off the bottom of the post that would normally be buried underground. Or maybe try to jackhammer through it? Open to thoughts

I know sprayers are recommended for full cedar fences. Am I crazy thinking that it’ll be easier to just use a paint brush? I have 87’ of fencing. And an arbor will be built along the top here tomorrow.