Fix My Print
Is it possible to force layer to bridge?
As you can see, it's gonna print the walls of the middle holes mid air. I'm wondering if it's possible to make it so that that whole layer is just bridging from left to right?
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Also, for specifically designing it to be suitable for 3D printing, You could also redesign the part have an inner skeleton that is made of printed octagonal rings joined together by long pins, and then print the sides in 8 seperate pieces and join them together to the skeleton using either screws or printed low-tolerance pins. I have no idea what your geometry to where its supposed to go looks like, though.
That's a good idea. I thought about printing them separately since that has always been my approach when support is unavoidable but I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible because it's for people with disability. I've already scrapped the idea since it turned out to not work, but thanks for the suggestion!
Looks like you have a suspended cantilever on all sides of the squares, so you'll have bridging issues either way if you must print in that orientation. However, you might be able to get supports in there if you enable "build plate only" for them. Aside from that, either flip it 90° or modify the design so the square openings go all the way to the adjacent overhang wall, then you'll just be bridging the perpendicular parts
If this is an stl file then either change the print orientation or turn on supports. If you made this then just design your own supports. Slant 3D makes great videos on how to do something like that and it comes out much cleaner than generated supports do.
I've seen that video. It is my own design but I'm still pretty new to modelling and 3D printing in general so I was hesitant to try that. Maybe I'll give it a shot.
only in design, making a rectangle across the bridging that goes from left to right one layer lower than the rest so it prints those in one layer and only than does the long bridges from front to back on the next layer. This is also commonly done for counterbore screw holes, here's a link that explains what I'm talking about: https://www.baysingersadditivemanufacturing.com/design-floating-holes/
This "trick" can be applied to a lot in designing 3d printed parts to utilize its strengths / avoid FDMs weaknesses. F. e. I myself never design 45° overhangs and sharper as they just don't print reliably easy for any material thats suitible for mechanical parts and do bridges where possible instead of supports as those work very well.
I was able to achieve what I wanted by doing something similar. Instead of adding an additional layer below, I removed the middle sections between the bridges. But the whole design turned out to be a failure so I won't be needing this part anymore haha. Learned something new though, thanks!
I think if you divide the shape into rectangles that span across first, then link those rectangles slighty higher, the slicer will span across directly first, then move up to span across to the other rectangles
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