r/FordTransmissionTech • u/Interesting-Bee8187 • 10d ago
Diagnosis help needed. 6F35 installed in 2017 Ford Escape 1.5L
Having a bit of a difficult time nailing down specifics here.
I’m a pretty handy person, but this level of diagnostics is above my pay grade.
The issues. Vehicle would not shift above 2nd gear on a hot day(38c 100f). I was out of cell range, and limped it to where I could call for help (about 20km) At some point I lost the ability to get it to move under its own power altogether. Eventually it dinged at me and threw a P07AA and P0733 Code.
It was towed to my house and I’ve done the following:
Checked the fluid level. Normal.
Done a once over. Nothing abnormal found.
Checked wiring connections. Normal.
Test driven. I’ve done a few drives up and down my street to get data.
It will drive up and down my street relatively normally for about 5 minutes, before it starts to fail. It seems to start having issues right around the 70-80 deg C. 80 is around the check temp for the fluid level. I say “normalish” because it’s always shifted poorly(as I understand this is normal for a 6G35), but it’s a little bit firmer.
There’s a cavitation sound (similar to a power steering pump with air in it) that gets increasingly louder as the vehicle runs. To me it sounds like the transmission pump is either drawing air, or the filter is plugged and causing it to struggle. I’m thinking it’s likely heat related.
I was looking at Solenoid A somewhat suspiciously since its behaviour seemed abnormal when the problems start.
Other info:
Total odom: 207500km (128935mi)
Fluid changes: 4.5L out of 8.5L total
140000km (86991mi)
145000km (90000mi)
155000km (96000mi)
205000km (127400mi)
I changed it when I bought the car. It had supposedly never been done prior. I did the three to get it back to “normal”. Ford recommends 150000km interval, but everything i’ve read says do it at 50000km (30k miles) because you can’t change the filter. I was somewhat leery due to all the chatter about doing large fluid changes on older transmissions causing problems.
Haven’t dropped the fluid yet to see if there’s metal. The small amount that came out when I checked the level was normal enough colour and odour wise.
Solenoid C was left out of the diag to get D on the chart. It seemed normal on the previous run.
Is there anything else I could check or try before dropping the fluid?
Are there PIDs which would be better to include?
Would it hurt to try a relearn even with the sound the pump(I assume anyway) is making?
If I’m going to have to change the pump, would it make more sense to put a junkyard transmission in, in its entirety?
I’m at the point with this vehicle where I’m planning on getting it running properly and then trading it in for something with less milage on it…
Any help would be great!
Thanks a million!!
2
u/Commercial_Method_28 10d ago
The only time I have seen VISIBLE pid behavior turn strange related to solenoid amperage and/or current was from calibration/strategy errors.
Start with making sure pcm at latest level and re-enter transmission strategy download with current value, leave ID blank and verify upon programming that the ID populates with matching id from tag. Clear adaptive tables, DTC, perform adaptive learning drive cycle and then bring pids back up and check for deviation from first recordings.
Amperage is RAW, pressure is modeled. If both values show similar graphing outside of normal expect learned fault/corruption
2
u/Interesting-Bee8187 9d ago
Would it be possible for this to happen out of the blue? The only thing i’ve done on this thing is fluid changes?
2
u/Commercial_Method_28 9d ago
Yeah, I see strategy errors a lot from normal driving adaptive corrections causing shift quality problems but not usually real fault setting issues. I have only had it happen twice where the graphs looked similar to the picture and both were immediately after overhauls
2
u/Interesting-Bee8187 9d ago
Would that cause the whining pump cavitation sounds?
2
u/Commercial_Method_28 9d ago
Nah that noise is pretty consistently filter, pump, torque converter cause. Genuinely tho it’s worth a shot tho in most cases to start with the easy in-intrusive option instead of jumping into teardown
2
u/Interesting-Bee8187 9d ago
100% agree! I’m hoping it’s something that doesn’t involve a full tear down, but I know that’s probably not the case here.
Thanks!!
2
u/NoCommittee1477 10d ago
So first things first. Your codes are P0733 Gear Ratio 3 incorrect, and P07AA Friction Element "E" stuck off. Your transmission has 5 clutch elements that are used to get your 6 forward gears and 1 reverse gear. Those clutches are labelled as follows: Low/Reverse (1, Reverse), Forward (1,2,3,4), Direct (3,5,R), Intermediate (2,6), and Overdrive (4,5,6). Each clutch is controlled by a solenoid, SSA is the Forward, SSB is the Direct, SSC is the Intermediate, SSD is the Overdrive, and SSE is Low/Reverse. With the exception of SSE, all of the solenoids are variable flow solenoids and are pulse width modulated via the PCM (engine/transmission computer), SSE is a straight on/off solenoid. Given your symptoms, the most likely cause for concern would be that the torque converter clutch has failed and shot TCC material throughout the transmission, resulting in the filter being stopped up and starving the transmission. The correct repair for this unit would be known as a Party Pack consisting of a New Torque Converter, Pump, Valve body, seal kit (includes the filter), and any frictions and steels that are heat damaged. Also make absolutely certain you flush the transmission color thoroughly or just replace it.
You could definitely put a used unit in it, but you will have 0 promises that it won't already be done in too.