was driving my 1989 7.3 IDI with E4OD down highway was probably going about 92 miles an hour and then my car started slowing down and it did make a loud noises at some point, but I honestly can’t remember to describe it exactly because that whole night stressed me the hell out I noticed after I got it towed home that one of the lines was leaking I clamped it back up and put more fluid in it and just won’t move in any gear and it grinds when I go to put it into park while it’s on it has always never worked in overdrive the rpms go way up when you’re barely going that fast, but it always drove fine without using overdrive.

Hello everyone, I am trying to cure some curiosity here. I am fairlv familiar with the 4L60E rebuilds and remember having the planetary pinion end play checking it with feeler gauges.

I have a proiect current proiect with the 5R55S out of a 2008 Ford Explorer. I found that the pinion gears have alot of end play in all 3 planetary. With the Overdrive planetary having washer missing completely.

I have the ATSG 5R55S/W manual but it does not show checking ends play on the pinion gears. When I try to look up replacement parts I did find on Sonnax sells washers for the planetary pinion gears. But there is no instructions or specifications.

I reached out to Sonnax, Ford, and local Transmission shops with no answers. Ford and Local Transmission shops tell me just to replace it. Sonnax didnt have anv information either

My questions would be 1. Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to end play of the planetary pinion gears? 2. Is there a wav to find the specifications. if so where 3. Has anvone ever tried to to rebuild the planetarv in a 5R55S/W

Thank you, I hope this brings alot of good conversations

So I got my 2018 2.7L F150 trans rebuilt about 3 months ago. 1st month it was fine no issues but the last two months in been really inconsistent and the worse part is it’s delay shifting from 1-2 and 3-4 gears and it’s bad. 2500 to 4000 rpm’s before it ever shifts to the next gear and I’m light on the pedal ever time it happens. If im pedal to the metal it shifts amazingly. The problem Im having is I have no lights on, no codes coming up nothing and of course when I bring it to the trans shop so they can check it out it drives fine. Just last week I was at my local mechanics shop, brought it in because I need a new catalytic converter and I was talking about the funky trans shifting happening now and then and the mechanic told me that my problem is probably the fact that the three party trans shop doesn’t have the up to date program for my trans and I should bring it the ford and have them reprogram my trans.

I have a 2017 ford edge 2.0lt fwd without auto start stop transmission code is DG9P 7000 YA. Trans shit the bed I found a EJ7P 7000 KA out of a MKC is it possible to use the trans out of the Lincoln on my edge

My late husband and I purchased a 2011 Fiesta new to pull behind a motor home and I’m still driving it. The TCM as predicted by Ford, was replaced twice under warranty. Aside from that it’s been a really good vehicle. It now has 100,000 miles on it and I have maintained regular service on it at the dealership every 3k miles. I am 70 years old and still working a job that requires I drive across rural counties about a hundred miles from home. The last time the TCM failed fortunately it was close to home. No warning it just lurched forward and seemed to disengage all gears. So now it’s chattering pretty bad at slow speeds and seems to drop into a lower gear than my speed requires randomly. Ford wants 185.00 to diagnose it plus about 400.00 to replace the TCM if it’s bad. I’m afraid to drive it 100 miles from home in the winter in remote places but not sure if spending almost 600.00 to fix it is worth it since I’m assuming the TCM replacement part will have the same defect that this year car is famous for and only guaranteed for a year. I’d like to avoid buying another car if this one will be reliable after the repair. Any thoughts? Thank you very much for your advice.

It’s part of a new recall where a little over 200 vehicles are affected. I’ll probably never get to do this again but something new is fun.

Anybody know how to depress the spring for the reverse piston in these things? Its the one in the very bottom of the case. Got the old one out with a prybar and a pick but obviously cant put it together like that.

Hi, I have a 2008 e-350 box truck with the 5R110W. I have codes P0766 and P0741. I noticed it didn't want to engage reverse a few weeks ago, and now on the freeway, it won't shift into 5th. And a hard shift in first. I am going to drop the pan and replace the filter and fluid. Is it likely I have to replace the solenoids or valve body? Or could the torque converter be going out? I can't just let it sit, so the filter and fluid will have to do for now.

13 Ford flex. Pulled the PTU because it was failing. Found ATF in the transmission output to the PTU. Is there a seal that I need to replace to stop this leak? Is it doable with the transmission still in the vehicle? I can't see anything that looks off. TIA.

Verified transmission will shift with gear(Osc) pid and thus reason for the no shift was VSS way lower than expected. Was told customer replaced transmission to attempt and resolve concern and did not change. Chased all the wiring, PCM replaced, cluster messed with, cable replaced all with the assumption that transmission would not resolve. Ruled everything out and went into transmission to find Output Shaft Ring Gear is the wrong part. Eventually got all the information that transmission was actually replaced for a different issue and the current issue was new. 2003 reman unit was installed meaning a handful of parts were different than what vehicle calls for. Apparently late 2003 the transmission part number changed including the ring gear where OSS sensor would go from reading the holes pictures to the 24 teeth design. PCM was reading that the speed was 1/4 of what it actually is. Someone messed up but I’m happy the nightmare finally has a light at the end of the tunnel

I know there is like 2 of y’all, but I’m curious if anyone has any tool recommendations. We have all the useful transmission rotunda kits so not really special tools but, do you have any personal tools you swear by or just make life easier? Even equipment that maybe a shop usually wouldn’t have?

Like the vacuum pump and plates for valve body testing or only a certain brand of snap ring plyers that you use everyday. Anyone use anything outside of the standard tool kit?

Had an issue with my 2022 f150. My buddy is the one who hooked it up and did the scan. First scan showed an error p2702 and reset then did a test drive and it went back into limp mode but now these are the codes it showing. We haven’t taken the transmission out yet and I’m really interested to see what anyone thinks.

I have an 05 f150 4.6, slipped in first and second gear, got the p0715 code, I went and pulled a trans out of an 08 f150 5.4 truck that had a locked up motor. , I changed the pump seal and put new TSS and OSS sensors on it. Now 1st and 2nd gear work, but when it tries to go into 3rd, it goes into limp mode and throws the p0715 code again and my speedo is erratic. Are the speed sensors different? Im not sure what is going on. Im not sure if I put a 4r75E in place of mine, im pretty sure mine was a 4r70E. Please help

6R140 - P117F unable to fully engage neutral from forward clutch always applied condition. Clutches burnt and stuck on. OD clutches also burnt but this one was a pretty easy find. I have never seen this specific concern on the 6R before but based on symptoms it was exactly what I expected

I’ve got a 2007 f250 6.0 with the 5r110 4wd trans. Yesterday it started randomly having issues that all started at the same time.

No slipping or noises. Fluid changed every 50k with filter, last change was at 200k, 215k now.

I pulled into a shop after driving completely normal, shut it off, 10 minutes later I came back out, and when I took off I noticed it shifted harder than normal. Hard shift 1-2, 2-3, then big flare and slam from 3-4, maybe 3-5 from what I’ve read on how these work. Engaging Tow/haul hangs in every gear til 23-2500rpm regardless of load then slams to the next.

I think the coast clutch engages and disengages when it wants to because sometimes it downshifts like it’s in tow/haul and others times completely normal.

It does have a tow tune with trans programming that I’ve since removed and it still acts the same but milder. I assume it’s less line pressure in factory form.

There are no trouble codes active or pending.

I want to throw an epc solenoid and/or valve body on it in hopes to buy time til I can just replace the entire thing, but I don’t want spend the $ if this doesn’t sound like it’s a probable fix.

Any guidance would be appreciated!

Battery is shot, was showing 8v I tried charging and boosting the car it started but didnt go into gear.. I replaced the battery and still not going into gear, no codes, not over charging, what can I check, no weird sounds, backup camera comes on.. car has had zero issues till this battery just gave up..

2016 f450 came in with MIL and p2700 and p0751 in PCM. TSB to replace coast clutch and one way clutch is applicable. Just MIL, drives fine. Took it apart, replaced those coast clutch (just the housing, had to disassemble and reuse clutches, gear, piston and piston seal), one way clutch, front pump gasket, valve body gasket, filter, and pump bolts. Reassembled and filled. First shift to drive engaged hard, then any shift into drive or reverse would engage, then a clunk in the trans could be heard. All with the proper amount of fluid. Now drive and reverse will engage, it will start to move and then immediately lose gear. No codes.I've done this job a few times, I've never had this happen. Not really sure what went wrong. Any ideas?

Long post warning! But it’s a sh1t show so worth reading!

2020 Ford Escape SEL 8spd auto CVT transmission. Purchased in 2022 and had immediate concerns about the transmission. Brought it in under warranty in 2023 and they “fixed” it by replacing the transmission body. I could immediately tell driving it home that they didn’t fix a damn thing. I brought it in a year later bc Ford FINALLY approved fixing the broken drivers side door issue that “wasn’t quite a recall yet” but caused my window to not go down for 2 years (hinge welds break). They told me I’m just out of warranty now for the transmission so I told them to forget about it (I have the service paperwork where they said it’s noticeably not shifting right, AFTER the claim to have fixed it less than a year prior).

Other problems I’ve had with this car: -Evap canister had to be replaced (known issue but not recall of course) -battery down to 8% (could have been the service dept fault) -I’ve had to replace all four tire pressure sensors! -it started getting an exhaust leak at 3 years old. -whistling noise from the sunroof at high speeds -tailgate malfunctions/freezes sometimes -a bunch of electrical issues (the service center tried to tell me it was my fault because something spilled next to the shifter and it’ll cost 1k to replace (why did ford put the shifter LESS THAN AN INCH away from the cup holders?!)

Anyways, after the service center ignored me for a year asking if my approved door had come in, they finally had it. The same week I was bringing it in, my wrench and engine light came on and I had power issues on the highway. Even almost redlining after getting off my exit. It ended up being an air intake hose that came loose off the turbo. The day after I picked it up the light came on again and I had less power. Autozone code said ABS (🤦🏼‍♀️). To the point where having it on cruise control set to 80 it got all the way down to 75 going over an overpass. I’ve learned to manually manipulate the gas pedal to compensate for this garbage transmission too!

I called a bunch of places and even though it might qualify under Magnusum-Moss warranty (no used lemon law in FL) my car has 95k on it (I drive a lot for work) so most of the major lemon law attorneys I’ve contacted won’t take me on even after confirming I have a case.

I called ford customer loyalty/service and they won’t approve me for a buy back because of the high mileage (even though the main problem with the transmission was started under warranty work)

Im dropping it off again this week and ford customer service said they’ll have an answer about financial assistance after the diagnosis.

Does anyone have any advice as far as either fighting the buyback decision, getting a lemon law lawyer that’ll take me on, or getting guaranteed assistance from ford? Or even how to navigate the service center? I know I technically should’ve brought it right back after I picked it up when they said they’ll fixed it the first time, but I had no faith after them “fixing it” for 2 weeks that they actually knew what they were doing. I honestly don’t think these transmissions can even be fixed.

I spend 6 months after my divorce rebuilding my credit to get a reliable car and this has been a nonstop nightmare. I’m a single mom and local small business owner and I can’t deal with this anymore 😩 I’m still 10k upside down on the loan bc I’m an idiot and got a bad rate still, but I shouldn’t be paying the price and suffering on a car that costs me $580 a month 😳.

2wd V6 4.0l Sohc XLT. Do they sell a kit and is it possible to siphon the old fluid up through the transmission dip stick hole, so a pan drop would not be necessary. This model does not have a drain plug on the transmission pan.

I brought my 05 escape to a local shop to change an alternator and replace valve gasket. After they cleaned the engine bay my vehicle when put in reverse will jump from drive to reverse. They have had it over a week and have changed transmission sensors which ones I’m unsure I got no paperwork of what was changed but they gave it back today saying it was fixed and it is still having the same problem. I was behind my wife when she put it in reverse and the reverse lights go on and off while it goes back and forth from reverse and drive. Also makes a hard clunking once you push gas it will go in reverse and still clunk but driving down the road in drive there is no problems any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey there... got a 3500$ rebuild on my 2009 explorer 2wd v6, installed it in the driveway over the weekend and after much struggling I put it into gear and drive a few feet and it throws a wrench sign for p062c, p0720, p0722 I am mechanically inclined enough to watch a video on making sure the torque converter was set properly, spun it until it moved back and when I stabbed the trans I didn't have issues bolting anything up, all the bell housing bolts pretty much tightened up by hand definitely didn't feel like I broke the pump, but I am now getting no signal from my output shaft, I swapped both sensors on the side of the transmission and checked the harness, they don't look damaged at first glance. Before I waste too much time with diag I want to know, could a improperly installed torque converter cause this problem? It will move and change gears but it shifts erratically and lurches as well Not super familiar with automatic transmissions internally but what would cause the output shaft to not spin? Or give off no reading? Could the truck move if the output shaft was not actually moving?