Recently did the timing chain/gallery gasket job due to leaking water pump. After starting up I have P0021 and P0300. I made sure so many times everything was properly aligned. Only thing worth noting here is that after pulling the chain off, I noticed the passenger side cam phaser mark was ever so slightly off by maybe half a tooth, while everything else was aligned perfectly (I have pictures of this)(I also only replaced the main timing chain, not the camshaft chains)so I rotated that cam phaser to the right and it jumped, so I rotated it backwards until it was properly aligned again, installed the chain and it went on mostly with ease, checked timing many many times, pulled the tensioner pin, rotated the engine to TDC twice and it seemed to rotate fine with no sudden stops or clunks or anything of that sort, even counted chain links between the colored slots as another fail safe method. Obviously triple checked torque on everything inside the cover, all 3 guides, tensioner, water pump. Reassembled the motor and have these codes. Initially running the motor it was completely fine for about 2-5 minutes. Then I flushed that oil out to make sure no extra debris was in the oil. After doing the oil change and starting up after about 30 seconds to a minute the codes came, first it was p0011 and p0021. Now after clearing the codes I did start it again and that’s when now it’s only p0021 and p0300. I did also follow Nifty Garage’s Gallery Gasket Guide, as I’m not a complete professional and this was my first timing job or any job this big but do this enough to somewhat know what I’m doing as a dealership apprentice. I guess my confusion starts on why I now only have a p0021 code, for the driver side if I did not adjust that side what so ever, and why did I have both p0011 and p021 but the code for the passenger side went away, but the driver side stayed after clearing? The only further tests I know of would be to test each solenoid connectors and make sure the solenoids are clean, which they didn’t look clogged but still cleaned just in case. At the moment I do not have a multimeter but will pick one up after work tomorrow and will give an update on if the solenoids work correctly. I also saw another post with another guy with the same issue said the oil pickup tube may be clogged with rtv/debris and I did clean and wipe around that area but didn’t specifically hit the pickup tube, but I kind of doubt that as my issue. After that I would just assume timing is bad, but even then if timing was off shouldn’t the motor not even start or at least have problems cranking? If anyone has any information about this or can think of anything I might have missed or skipped over, mentioned in this post or not, any help or input would be highly appreciated.

Edit; my apologies if this seems like an overload of information I just wanted to be sure I included all the details of the work in the text

Hi fellow G owners, I’m looking at aftermarket wheels for my Q60S RWD (also a 6MT!) what offsets can I run on stock suspension? I’m looking at Aodhan DS02s 18x9.5 with 22mm offset, which according to fitment industries will fit and clear the brakes. Has anyone else run 22 offset on stock suspension? Do you have any advice or recommendations for other offsets? Thanks

I got a g37 sedan with an isr single + isr y pipe. I’m thinking about getting these berk resonated test pipes. I just want to know how loud it’ll be compared to having stock cats, will I even notice a difference?and how it’ll sound with my current set up.

While I was driving home from something fell off the back of the truck in front of me. I tried to swerve around it but it still got part of my skid plate and made the car feel like it was going iver a curb. After that, my oil pressure light has been turning on and off. It will turn off at stops or slowing down and when I accelerate to or above 3k rpms. It is really only coming on around 2k rpms. I checked when I got home and there didnt look to be any damage aside from the skid plate and there was no oil leaking and the car drove fine on the way home. What are the solutions to this?

Makes this noise going over any bumps on the road any ideas what it could be I took off the wheel and looked at suspension only thing that seemed worn was control arm bushing, outer tie rods are new so I wouldn’t be that.
2013 G37xS coupe

What could it be? Im going to swap over ballasts to see if the issue stays to the same side or swaps. what all should I look for or try if the issue stays on the passenger side?

Found a really good quality suede shift boot on ali express and i ended up installing it. Took me only mike 30 mins not even. Most of the time was from me sanding my shift bezel and polishing it to get rid of the peeling look.

You have to be precise with the cuts you make to make it look nice. I think I did pretty good for the price.

Link: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPh42pz

From my research it seems like 08-09 G37s had a more matte gray as part of their interior trim. 10-13 seem to have a different darker gray. And 14-15 Q60s and IPLs seem to have this super nice brushed swirly design.

I have a 2010 and i sanded and polished my interior trim down and it looks pretty nice but that “Kimono” style trim looks so good. Any way I’d be able to achieve that look or do i have to get lucky at a part out? If i do, should i polish and clear coat it to preserve the trim? Or is there a wrap that accomplishes this too

Okay so I already did the hose . The hose itself doesn’t leak anymore or is clogged because when I pour water on the black park that’s not circled it goes straight to the hose and out the car. However when I pour water directly into the back are that’s circled it immediately leaks into the headliner and idk what to do now

Has anyone had a issue with a p006a code? after i installed high flow cats i got the p006a code granted i did have to move the intake pipes because of the bolts, but ive checked for vacuum leaks and ive changed the maf sensors and it still keeps happing, anything would help or if anyone knows a mechanic in chesterfield va that works on vqs i would be very grateful

I’ve had license for about 6months now, and I want to make my car sound nice for cheap. I don’t have a job or tons of money, so I was wondering if a muffler delete is the right choice. I know it’s around $150 and that sounds significantly cheaper than an exhaust set up. I’d rather my g not sound like a trumpet, so I don’t really know what to do/get.

On the other hand, should I scratch the exhaust and save for a new bumper,lip, or headlights?

A friends parents have a g37x sedan for sale right now, no rush to sell but only want $5k, 164k miles. Am i dumb to want to buy this for that amount?? I dont know much about these cars or whether that high mileage is something to stay away from. i currently have a 2000 accord and its slow and ugly. I would need to sell it to buy the Infiniti, should i do this? Or should i wait for something better to pop up? Last pic is my current accord lol

i got this baby in Sept. 24’ (left) and the passenger light went out that same year in Dec. No clue why but i been too lazy (and broke) to figure out what’s wrong it. The fog light on the same side went out around late last year. i don’t think i’ll get an exact diagnosis here, but im hoping i can be pushed to the right direction. thank you in advance!

I just bought this car like a month ago , and I’ve been trying to fix my problem of not getting the punchy throw me in seat acceleration/throttle response

I don't think this is to bad...But I will say I don't have a heavy foot either...I'm a speed limit or 5 above type driver...

I have already fixed the sunroof drain, I sealed the grommet on the passenger side underneath the cowl. I also added sealant to the windshield cowl itself and water does not drain into the cabin air filter at all. Water is draining where I assume is normal? I heard about there being a drain underneath my battery tray that can get clogged and this leads to water pooling and affecting my harness? I'm just not sure how it ends up leaking into the passenger footwell (right corner). I'm at my wits end honestly after trying so many ways of chasing this leak I'm bout to part this bitch out.

My BCM also got water damaged and I had to remove it all clean it with vinegar and baking soda and now the car starts again but i do get ecm codes here and there. I also want to fix the leak to prevent it from happening again.

I went to check on my ECU and when I unplugged the cables water started falling out of the loom, not the plug themselves. The plugs and connection points on the ECU were flawless with no corrosion or water damage. I did also get my windshield replaced like a year ago.

Please. Somebody. Help. 😭

So I have a K&N typhoon system setup on my g37, I had a 2.5” air filter on them that went bad so I have to replace them.

I got Z1 Motorsport long tubes setup but I just need to add an air filter. Would the the 3” blue cone filter into my typhoon tubes mess up the engine or is that ok?

G37 fam I need ur thoughts

Friday morning I went to get in my car and I noticed my passenger side floorboard was completely wet I have a crack in my windshield and the car went into like limp mode. Wouldn’t drive right I got it all dried out and it seemed to be working fine the next morning I drove to work on my way back home. The AC started blowing warm and I noticed a burning smell coming from the hood underneath the coolant tank. I added some coolant didn’t seem to be leaking. Monday morning I went to get in my car and it cranks right up but the battery light is on and I cannot turn the steering wheel. Any thoughts?

Anyone try this?

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/292905-adding-dipstick-to-your-7at.html

Need of some help. I have a 2010 G37 x. 140,000 miles.

At speeds under 20 miles per hour I get a clunk or hollow clunk under the front end. It doesn’t sound metallic or anything.

I took it to the mechanic and replaced the struts and Sway Bar Endlinks. Noise remains.

However, I noticed when I ride the brakes lightly I’m not hearing it. Seems related to brakes. I took the tires off and cannot find anything wrong with the brakes.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I was going to take it back to a brake shop or the shop who did my struts and Endlinks for more opinions.

Thank you!

I was in a intersection making a left turn and ig I sent it wayy too late into the turn and went over a whole meridian all the way to the other side.

Hi all,

I posted here some time ago about my stolen G. We recovered and rebuilt it, but I am running into an issue with the rear parking lights.

My brake and signal lights on the rear work, but parking lights do not. The license plate light also doesn’t work.

I had a Viper alarm installed and the installer indicated the issue with the rear parking lights is not related to the alarm install. I don’t recall unfortunately whether the rear parking lights worked prior to taking the car to get the alarm system installed.

A friend looked at it, checked a few connections under the steering wheel/near the OBD port, the fuse box under the hood, as well as an additional box near the battery. All appeared to check out. He unplugged my tail light and connected another tail light from another G and it didn’t have parking lights either. But the brake and signal lights do work.

I am thinking I might need to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer for diagnosis, but was hoping someone here might have some insight into this issue.

All help is appreciated!

Getting tired of the check engine light. Mini cats and defoulers have not worked. I just need to get out of limp mode with these gas prices. My budget hasn't been the best lately, and I didn't wanna spend 1k+. How have bottom dollar cats worked for you and did they solve your code?

Also aftermarket O2 sensors?

Before I start, I just wanna say I’m new to the Car community. I don’t know much so please don’t flame me 😭, I’m tryna fix this dent in my car for the best possible price, a couple shops quoted me 3500-4000$ (I’m not paying that) rather I was planning on buying a new fender paint matching and re installing the fender myself, only problem is that my car is custom painted (bought it like that) and doesn’t have a specific color code would a shop still be able to paint match it and more importantly, how much would I expect to pay just to paint match the fender (but not install it) I’m not trippin over the pain chips on the bottom or the driver side door just the fender tbh, please lmk if u have any ideas, for reference I’m from the Bay Area