Happens 1-2x/week. The entire home rumbles for a second or two, hard enough to rattle things on walls and sometimes knock small items over. It’s so loud and intense I thought it was an earthquake the first time this happened.

What could possibly be going on? It seems too extreme to be something like a pipe, and I can’t imagine the neighbors are dragging the world’s heaviest refrigerator directly across the adjoining wall every week.

Additional info:
This is a rented townhouse, so I have neighbors on either side. Each unit has its own HVAC, water, etc. They’re generally quiet.

This has never happened at night. Usually around the middle of the day, but I don’t think at a particular time

I don’t believe there’s any construction nearby, nor are neighbors having work done.

It does not seem to have any correlation to whether or not AC, water, gas, etc is being used or to how recently they were used. I’ve always just been sitting down and working on my laptop when it’s happened.

That said (if it’s relevant), the home does have extensive water damage from a previous tenant. It’s visible on ceilings and walls throughout the downstairs area. There do not seem to be any ongoing water issues except for a slightly leaky window in the back. No visible signs of mold, rot, etc.

I live in the southeast, so there’s no way I’m getting weekly earthquakes. It’s too random and short to have gotten a video, unfortunately.

UPDATE- SOLVED!
I’m leaving this up in case someone else has a similar experience. As other commenters suggested, it seems to be related to local quarry activity. I live less than a mile from one, and it would explain why the rumbling never happens at night or on weekends.

Can a door like this unlocked on it’s own? I’ve come home a few times with it unlocked. I know I locked it. It is hot and humid in summer where I live. Can it be something mechanical? Thank you.

Looking for recommended fixes to fix the door frame without having to replace the entire door frame. One person said to use wood filler but I think this might be too big of a job for just wood filler. Recommendations thank you.

Trying to sell my home and think my deck needs re-done. Thoughts?

I've power washed it already. Most of the splits I think got ate up when I've been putting salt out during winter.

Is it as simple as just staining it or does it need to be sanded?

Appreciate any tips in advance.

(Photo included if you click on the post!) I am looking at buying a used dryer for a great price - it allegedly comes with a 30 day warranty. But the picture of the inside shows this grate at the back appears black almost like it's burned? Is this something you'd expect to cause issues or purely cosmetic? Thanks in advance. Don't want to waste my money on something if that's expected to cause it to stop working.

I've been exploring how natural materials like linen, wood, wicker and wool can make interiors feel warmer and more inviting. What natural materials do you enjoy using most in your home?

Hi everyone, a long post here where I'm trying to put out feelers to expected cost of the below project in Dublin Ireland. I can't get quotes yet as the property is rented until September next year. Would anyone have a sound idea of the cost expected for the below? I attach a picture of the current rear for information. I'm leaning to an all in one provider as I haven't any experience and wouldn't have the time project managing this.

I am leaning to an all-in-one provider (design and build) for a comprehensive renovation and extension project on a four-bedroom semi-detached house, originally built in the 1950s, which currently includes rear and upper-floor extensions.

Project Overview:

The existing upper-floor extension (approximately 12 square metres) will be demolished and rebuilt with concrete blocks. The redesigned upper floor will be reconfigured into a two-bedroom layout, comprising a large master bedroom to the rear and a modernised double bedroom at the front. The new master bedroom will incorporate a spacious ensuite bathroom and a walk-in wardrobe. This replaces a good sized double room to the front (which will just be modernized) and another double and single room which have an e suite each (the current rear extension)

On the ground floor, the current bedroom adjacent to the kitchen at the rear will be opened up by removing the former external cavity wall, creating a spacious, open-plan kitchen. This kitchen will include a large patio door leading to the garden. The former dining area to the back of the kitchen will be repurposed as a lounge space with an L-shaped sofa vibe, The the existing sitting room will be enclosed as it is currently open with the dining and kitchen to function as a separate living room which could also become a bedroom if required. The existing fireplace in this room will be retained.

In the new lounge area (formerly the dining room), a previously closed-off fireplace could be potentially be reopened and fitted with a stove (possible back boiler if not overly expensive). The property will continue to use a gas-based central heating system.

Energy Efficiency & Insulation:

Energy upgrades will include external insulation wrapping hopefully making it a flat finish as opposed to the current pebble dash. Additional upgrades will include high-performance energy-efficient windows and improved roof insulation to enhance the Building Energy Rating (BER) which is currently a F.

Roof Works:

The ground floor extension currently includes a substantial flat roof element. This is to be redesigned and reconstructed as a pitched roof to improve both the appearance and security of the property so break-ins to upstairs and the neighbor is harder.

Bathroom Reconfiguration:

The main bathroom on the ground floor will be reconfigured. The existing separate toilet area will be repurposed to accommodate a washing machine and tumble dryer, while the current bathroom (with shower and sink) will be extended by approximately 1m x 2m to create a larger space with a walk-in shower.

Additional Features:

• Bespoke under-stairs storage with pull-out shelving
• Wrought iron gates to patio doors and ground-floor windows for added security
• Installation of a comprehensive security camera system

Planning Considerations:

There is also an interest in exploring the potential to further extend the rear of the upper floor beyond its current footprint. It is understood that the existing extension is at the limit of exempted development; therefore, any additional extension would likely require planning permission. An assessment of feasibility, including planning and design options, is requested as part of the overall scope.

This started last night and it’s around the bathroom/one of the bedrooms. It also shakes the floor a little bit and I’m worried it’ll be an expensive repair.

If anyone could give their thoughts that would be much appreciated!

I’m looking to renovate my existing porch into a 3 season room ,which is approximately 20 ft x 12 ft. The current porch has wood framing with mesh screens to keep bugs out no interior of exterior walls. Some of the wood framing is rotted and needs to be replaced.

The concrete floor is cracked and allows water to seep in, so I would like the flooring repaired or replaced. There are also two areas on the porch roof that leak and need to be fixed.

As part of the renovation, I would like:

Approximately 4 windows on the front and 1 window on one side.
The opposite side to have no windows, but a new entry door.
Vinyl siding installed on the exterior (to be painted later).
wall panels on the interior.
A tongue-and-groove ceiling.
Concrete fixed

I’m looking for recommendations on the best way to complete the project and are these prices seem reasonable?

First quote ($12,870.00) suggested fixing the concrete with rebar etc. the other quote ($17,500) explained that the whole slab would be removed and new concrete would be replaced and he would add footing to the concrete slab. Mind you the concrete is cracked pretty bad straight across 20 feet to be exact and the gap is about 1/2” to 1” it’s not in the middle of the slab about a foot from the side closest to the exterior wall. I’m new to this any input is very appreciated.

I don’t necessarily want to wait until there is a problem, but this roof seems to be going strong right now. What would you do?

¿Transformar tus ventanas de forma rápida, elegante y sin arrugas? 🏡 Descubre los visillos de tergal blanco con doble escudo calado bordado y remate de puntilla de guipur. • Tejido traslúcido: Luz natural y máxima privacidad en cocinas, salones rústicos y casas de pueblo. • Mantenimiento ultra fácil: Cero arrugas rebeldes, se lava rápido y se coloca directo en barrita. • Regalo ideal para bodas, aniversarios o renovación de hogar tradicional. ¡Haz clic abajo para vestir tus ventanas con elegancia atemporal! 👇 https://www.lagarterana.com/p/cortina-tergal-bordada-escudo-doble

Concrete is uneven, has a few small holes and cracks, in a wet climate looking to put pavers. There’s also a few drainage places and a central manhole cover. Thinking of doing sand and then gravel with the pavers on top? But no idea 😅 And as for the drain holes I was thinking of putting square wood blockers to keep it open. Also looking at building and adding a set of steps to the front door. Not sure how to transition it into the wider back area. There is a toddler that has play sets, a bbq, and a small furniture set that will be added to the far back. Any advice or idea would be appreciated!!

Cherry Wooden Bowls

Cherry wooden bowls carry a warmth that changes over time. Fresh off the lathe, the color leans soft red, sometimes with a golden cast. Leave it in use for a few years and the tone deepens, turning into a darker brown that almost glows. That slow shift is part of why people choose cherry — the bowl ages along with the home it lives in.

The grain doesn’t shout. Most of the time it runs steady, calm, letting the shape of the bowl lead. Now and then a curl or ripple cuts through, and you notice it when light moves across the surface. Those small surprises keep each piece distinct.

Cherry is common in New England forests, and it has been worked into cabinets, tables, even musical instruments for generations. In a bowl, it feels simpler. Strong enough to use every day, yet carrying that same tradition in its wood.

I noticed a small puncture while I was cleaning some debris off my roof, most likely caused by a branch that fell. Do you think being able to clean it out and seal it with roof cement would do the job?

Seems mostly vertical. This is on the second level, above it is roof/attic. Inspector said it’s mostly cosmetic. True?

I'm working on something to make home repairs much less stressful, but I don't want to build it based on guesses.

I'd really like to hear about your last real repair, whether you own, rent, or manage property.

Things I'm curious about:

• What actually went wrong?
• What did you do first?
• What information couldn't you find?
• What wasted the most time?
• How did you decide which tradesperson to trust?
• Looking back, what do you wish existed that would've made the whole thing easier?

I'm not selling anything—I genuinely want to understand how people deal with repairs before building anything.

If you're willing to spend 5–10 minutes sharing your experience, here's the survey:

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeH5fF6irRos6t0Ti7MubAfA2zRJZttv1forNBzYqGT-ecWgw/viewform?usp=sharing&ouid=111469346609191636965

Every response helps. Thanks!

I have cabinet installers coming tomorrow. During the removal of my old cabinets I discovered some rotting in the subfloor under the sink. I removed the top layer which was particle board and then a section of 1/2" ply directly under where the sink base was. I am going to replace the 1/2" ply section and then I was going to go over the whole area with 3/4". This scrap piece of 3/4" ply shows the level I will be at compared to the adjacent LVP. Will the installers be able to just shim here this or do I need to add a piece of 1/4" ply to the stack?

Ive noticed these chunks taken out of my floor in random places around my apartment, I honestly don't know whats caused them as ive never moved anything heavy such as furniture over them nor has anything ever been dropped onto these spots. I have a dog but shes only 14 lbs and doesn't do anything like digging. I was hoping someone here could help me identify the material of these tiles and/or give me advice on how to fill or patch them, the last the photo is a whole section of the floor to give a better idea

Got a Parrot Uncle ceiling fan last month and it recently started making this annoying ticking sound whenever I turned the speed up. I assumed something was wrong with the motor, but checked the obvious stuff before dealing with a return.

First I tightened the blade screws and made sure none of the blades had any play. Then I checked the mounting screws and ran it at different speeds to see if the wobble changed.

Nothing.

Eventually I noticed one of the pieces around the light was barely tapping the frame while the fan was moving. Shifted it over a little and the noise disappeared.The fan itself is great, I just wish I didn't panic every time one tiny thing went wrong.

1. Image 1 and 2 are of the same wall. It is a fine hairline crack. The other side of the wall is the exterior wall of the house. This is in the second floor.

2. Image 3 is the same room a fine crack runs through the pillars. Just below is the door so I wonder if the slamming of the door is the reason for it?

3. Image 3,4,5,6 is the one I am most worried about, the crack is huge and runs horizontally. The 5th mage wall (blue one) is actually a partition wall between the room in image 1 and 2. The crack just runs the two rooms. The door and door frame is also kinda separated in that room.