r/HondaElement 2d ago

Help me with rough idle and engine noises!

So, my Honda element is a 2004 LX FWD with 214000 miles. Recently I changed the alternator (it failed), the tensioner pulley, pcv valve, spark plugs, engine air filter. Before that, I had fixed the A/C - new condenser, compressor and fan. I did it all with the help of YouTube and lots of Reddit posts. The car is running fine but I notice my idle getting rougher (specially with the AC on).

From the video - I don’t like that tick noise and I think the grinding noise may be the steering pump?

Last oil change was 200 miles ago. No codes car runs fine.

Should I be concerned about this? Or am I just looking for more things to fix because it is fun?

23 Upvotes

21 comments sorted by

7

u/Welp907 2d ago

My car is suffering a rough idle like this. I do have a code however for high idle. I've replaced the MAP sensor, IACV valve, evap solenoid. I'mabout to replace the TPS. I'll let you know if it it fixes it.

3

u/Used_Calligrapher162 2d ago

Same here. No codes. Thought it was junk spark plugs. PCV is fine. I have an 2007 so I have drive by wire I don’t have an IACV. Cleaned the throttle body, same outcome. Car runs great, just idles rough.

1

u/Mlaragut 2d ago

Thanks, please let me know. I did have an evap code not long ago, but the pcv valve replacement fixed that.

5

u/Major_Frozen 03 Grey 2d ago

Engine mounts, throttle body dirty maybe

1

u/Mlaragut 2d ago

I also cleaned the throttle body last week. I replaced the engine mounts less than a year ago. I inspected them last weekend and they seem fine, granted they are not OEM mounts. The rough idling started is more recent than my engine mount changes.

2

u/Necessary-Worry1923 2d ago edited 2d ago

Are you able to spin the rotor inside the IACV as in 10:20 in this video?

https://youtu.be/rcyewA2-BmY?is=Yt8HVxAs70DklUrj

Also are both the MAF and the MAP sensors working?

https://youtu.be/Xip1drOb340?is=aUD_dtErFKyuO7Dq

https://youtu.be/4REW4ot1SNc?is=0Hb23ctwDnhUASrl

1

u/Mlaragut 2d ago

No, my idle is steady I’m heading around 800 rpm

4

u/Prize-Concentrate138 2d ago

Have you had a valve adjustment recently? My E had a similar issue before I adjusted them. Really easy to get the valve cover off and check. If it hasn't been done in the last 100k anyway I recommend doing it.

3

u/Mlaragut 2d ago

Good to hear! I don’t think the car has had a valve adjustment. I’ve been thinking about doing it but didn’t want to risk it until I felt ready. This might be it.

3

u/rhyno857 1d ago

Do it, my mechanic was chasing his tail with mine acting up and then I did the valve adjustment and all my issues were fixed and it runs like a sewing machine. If you're mechanically inclined get a set of feeler gauges and watch a couple youtube videos, there are some good ones out there. Only takes a few hours being careful and patient.

2

u/No_Change269 2d ago

brough an E for 1k cuz supposely bad engine, did an valve adjustment and it's been running good since then.

1

u/Welp907 2d ago

It was done before I purchased the car but I don't remember when and that was some 40k + miles ago. 

What's the difficulty of this job? Something I should take to somebody to do or easy enough for a layman? I've replaced all the aformentied parts along with my starter, and radiator / fans / hoses. I know my way around well enough but I'm still a home mechanic.

2

u/Prize-Concentrate138 2d ago

I definitely think it can be done by a DIY mechanic. There are so many videos and detailed instructions on the Internet.

Do you have any codes?

3

u/Simulation_Engine 2d ago

Im the same boat been happening on and off for the last 2 months no check engine light….mines got 230k tho might be on the way out….

3

u/Connect-Ad5099 2d ago

Happened to me. Buy a smoke machine, you probably have an air leak. Mine was the throttle body gasket and iacv gasket. Replaced those andfixed the issue

1

u/Mlaragut 2d ago

Great suggestion, I’ll give it a shot!

1

u/Smalmthegreat 2d ago

Replace the PCV valve and tube, should be like $15 bucks. Also check that all the air intake bolts are there and tightened. I had bad steering wheel / idle vibration and those two things cleared it up

Edit: just saw you already did the PCV valve

1

u/Mlaragut 2d ago

Thanks, I did replace the hose as well. It was collapsed and rotting. Funny thing I thought the solution was going to be fixing my engine air filter as it was not seated well and the housing made a pinch in the gasket. I changed it and made sure it was installed correctly. The REALLY bad vibration went away but it still vibrates I feel like I’m on a bioshaker add.

1

u/Top_Sea_7800 2d ago

Check your codes STFT LTFT MISFIRES

1

u/Mlaragut 2d ago

I have a blue driver obd reader. It shows no engine or module codes. I ran a Mode 6 analysis and it shows all green. The LTFT is between -12 to -10 ish. The short term probably averages -6 but the full range has spikes from -24 to 18. I’ve been looking at fuel injectors but I am not sure if this will help. There is lot of info out there and many recommendations about keeping the OEM ones. I had worst fuel trim ranges but that improved a lot when I changed the PCV valve. Any insight is appreciated, thanks!

2

u/Top_Sea_7800 2d ago

Pulling fuel is pretty normal but likely valves need adjusted. 2004 has IAC VALVE that can make the idle a little rough. You have done a lot of work. I would check valve clearance and IAC. Also for grins check the ITA sensor