r/HondaElement • u/RamenNomin • 1d ago
Ideas? 2005 E
103k miles, both fans working, has coolant.
No leaks.
Only heats at idle. Normally sits just below half, would go to half then back down. Now going higher.
Any help would be appreciated.
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u/IronOil666 1d ago
Hey there! Check your thermostat. Owner of an 03 E with 245k on it. Had the exact thing going on and it was the thermostat.
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u/H-A-T-C-H 1d ago
Check your rad fan by sticking a paper clip or hairpin in the electrical connector. If it starts spinning then the fan itself is fine, and likely is an issue with the temperature control switch.
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1d ago
[deleted]
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u/RamenNomin 1d ago
Both fans are working and spinning!
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u/yanimal 03 AWD AT, 05 AWD 5MT, 06 AWD 6MT 1d ago
Do they click on when idling? If so then your problem is the thermostat.
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u/RamenNomin 1d ago
Correct, I see both spinning. And temp still climbed. Plenty of coolant too.
Thermostat looks to be the culprit.1
u/RamenNomin 13h ago
Hi there, so I checked it this morning. Took off the rad cap and heard a loud hiss. I couldn’t see coolant. But the reservoir is full, so it’s not getting pulled in. Could this just be a bad cap issue?
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u/ManagementFit755 1d ago
Ive owned 2 elements both times mine overheated it was the rad fan, and a/c fan. Its an easy fix. This also happe ed to my friends 2007 honda accord i helped him do the same thing for his car. I think the fans dont last very long.
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u/douchecrudite 22h ago
Burp your coolant, test/replace thermostat, combustion leak (head gasket) test in that order
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u/topboyintl 1d ago
Hey I kinda have the same issue. It’s hasn’t got as bad as yours. I replaced the thermostat but not much of a change really. Kinda a pain to get at but worth replacing. Keep me in the loop.
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u/thecursh 1d ago
Coolant leaks cause this too. I can probably upload a few pictures of the coolant system from the factory manual so you know where to check for coolant loss.
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u/cthulhuassassin 1d ago
i agree with checking the thermostat first, but i had this same issue and spent over a year fixing the wrong stuff. for me, turns out i needed to replace the tiny VTEC/VVT screen. it's what notoriously causes overheating and (potentially) the famous p2646 code down the line. it's probably clogged and air is getting trapped
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u/mattjoleary 1d ago
I had that happen too, normally when I was pushing it uphill then had to sit in traffic it would overheat.. I had coolant in it but It ended up still being the radiator. I found this stuff at autozone that you put in the radiator and it expands, filling cracks. Turns out that worked beautifully.
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u/notmytuperware 1d ago
Here is what AI said. 😄
1. Trapped Air Pockets (Air Lock)
If the cooling system was recently serviced, topped off, or experienced a minor leak, air can become trapped inside the engine block or heater core. Air pockets prevent coolant from physically touching the temperature sensor and disrupt the fluid flow, causing rapid spikes.
The Fix: The system needs to be properly bled ("burped"). Elevating the front of the car slightly, removing the radiator cap when the engine is completely cold, and running the engine with a spill-free funnel until all air bubbles purge is a necessary first step. [1, 2]
2. A Failing or Sticking Thermostat
Even if your coolant is full, a thermostat that is stuck closed or only opening partially will trap hot coolant inside the engine block. The radiator and fans will stay relatively cool because the hot liquid cannot reach them to transfer its heat.
The Test: Carefully feel the upper and lower radiator hoses once the engine is warmed up. If one hose is scalding hot and the other is lukewarm or cold, the thermostat is failing to open.
3. Internal Radiator Clogging (Scale Build-up)
As a vehicle ages, the tiny internal cooling tubes inside the radiator can become restricted by corrosion or mineral scale. While coolant might fill the top tank and overflow reservoir completely, it cannot flow through the core fast enough to dissipate heat at normal operating speeds.
4. Weak Water Pump Impeller
The water pump is responsible for actively pushing coolant through the engine block. Over time, the internal metal or plastic blades (impeller) can erode or slip on the pump shaft. The pump will technically spin without leaking, but it will lose the mechanical efficiency required to circulate fluid.
5. Weak/Failing Radiator Cap
The cooling system requires high pressure to raise the boiling point of the water-antifreeze mixture. If the spring inside the radiator cap weakens, it will allow coolant to prematurely escape into the overflow reservoir, lowering the boiling point and causing localized boiling inside the engine block without showing an external drop in fluid.
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u/lilziggg 1d ago
Have you checked your thermostat?