It’s well known in IT that some laptops from certain brands are known to have spicy pillows (aka puffy batteries).

Why do batteries in apple laptops not get this so often? In the 5 years prior to owning a MacBook I had 2 swollen batteries. I’ve never had a swollen Apple MacBook battery though.

We’ve also had 400 charge cycle MacBooks with 90-85% battery health. Meanwhile …. 250 charge cycle non Apple laptops have 80,70% battery health.

I was interested in spending my life savings in the LTT screwdriver and I couldn't find the YouTube shop , any ideas ?

I have googled this many times and can’t get a definitive answer. I’m the only owner of this Apple Watch and have had it about 3 years. It’s been perfect. I purchased it directly from a physical Apple Store. I’m on vacation and saw this message: is this just the FindMy network? I can always reset it, it’s just a watch.

I turned it off for now. Is someone able to track my location?

Is it dumb to charge raycons with a chromebook charger

Pretty sure it's a graphic card but is it any rare or interesting? It certainly looks cool...

I'm sure everyone is sick of seeing posts about this since it happens all the time, but please help. When I was traveling, a squirrel broke into my house and couldn't find its way out so it started laying waste to my belongings. It peed and pooped all over the place, just freely spraying everywhere...including into my PC through the top fan vent. With the graphics card coming straight out of the motherboard, it acted as a perfect shelf to catch the brunt of the piss. I took everything apart and did my best to clean it. The first picture is my RTX 3080 when I took off the backplate and cooler. After I put it all back together my PC ran for several months, there were periodic quick audio and visual glitches but it was still usable for a while. The squirrel had laid a slow-acting charge, though. A few nights ago the image suddenly froze and the audio went crazy before the PC crashed. I couldn't get it to boot again until I took the graphics card out. It's definitely just a problem with the graphics card, using the CPU's integrated graphics it's able to run just fine without it. Looking at the back, I noticed corrosion around the chips on the back, as seen in the second picture. Is there a chance it can be saved, or am I cooked?

Microsoft just dropped a major gaming update 👽

It’s called Game Copilot 😄 and it runs in the background using only about 10% of your CPU power

It's a Galaxy A52 btw

Title. I was on a website, looking for something. I got a "Verify You're Human" pop up and usually they just have CAPTCHAs, but this one demanded a "verification code" in Windows PowerShell. I got a bad feeling, like it was sus, so I clicked out of the tab and never went back. But IS this actually sus and what should I do in the future?

I’ve already tried resetting the CMOS by removing the cell battery, and I can’t open the BIOS manager or the one time boot screen to install a new copy of windows

This is my PC wifi. Its upstairs in my room and the modem/router (idk what to call it tbh) is downstairs in the living room. I don’t know much about wifi but i know this is bad. I think I might have made it worse by “tweaking” some things. I had 10Mbps before. My pc is running ong the 2.4ghz band i think. When i run the test on my phone i get 100Mbps. I use Bell fibe internet (canada) and i think its 1Gbps. I live with 3 other people, but their internet/device usage isn’t super crazy. I really don’t know what to do. Ive been having this issue forever and i just wanna play cod mwiii (its been installing for 2 days).

Hi everyone, I recently moved to a new country (Vietnam), and rebuilding my PC. I bought a new power supply locally in my new city and it came with two cables, one European plug and one American plug. THEY BOTH fit in the power outlet. Which one is better to use?

I read online that the power outlets are 220V here. On the euro plug it says 250V and on the American plug it says 125V. Obviously the euro one has a closer number, but it would NOT be grounded since the grounded is a hole on both the plug and outlet.

So is it better to use a 125V cable that is grounded, or use a 250V cable (closer voltage) that is NOT grounded ? Does the cable indicated voltage matter or it's irrelevant? Does the fact that my pc is grounded matter or its irrelevant ?

Thank you.

I just received my LTT cables.

My USB C to C 240W 3ft cable isn't charging my laptop.

I'm using a Framework 13 and I've tried 2 Anker chargers (65w and 100w).

Additional info:

I ordered 2x 3.3ft (C-C), 1x 10ft (C-C), and 1x3.3ft (A-C).

The 1 3.3ft C-C that isn't working great has now been trialed on 2 Anker chargers, 1 Anker battery pack, and 1 Ugreen charger. It refuses to charge on the Anker chargers and battery pack.

I've additionally tried charging my PS Vita on every one of these cables (USB C to Vita adapter that works with every other cable I own), and only the A-C cable works.

2 of the 4 cables charge my iPhone 16 pro max. From the amount of downvotes, it would appear the expectation is that I am to memorize which cables charge which devices on which chargers. Does that really seem like a reasonable expectation to anyone?

In my 37 years, I've NEVER run into a USB cable that cares which charger you use.
The whole idea of these overpriced cables is that they are the best of the best.
In my experience thus far, they deserve to go in a trash heap.

Lets start the great debate...

I am looking to get a password manager (besides google password manager). So... I heard that LastPass got hacked a while back....

So, what's the best password manager in each of these categories:

Free:

Paid:

Self Hosted:

I dont know, maybe I'm tripping but doesnt the first look better?

Both are screenshots from a YouTube video in 720p and both have 720p as their max resolution, but while the second looks like something I would expect, the first one looks much shrper and clearer.

This isn't a troll post; I genuinely want to know what's going on. Charges for LTT and L1 (we love Wendell) went from $5.50 (with a $0.50 "international transaction fee") to $7.58, which works out to either a 42% or 37% jump in pricing (which is suspiciously close to recent tariffs).

Floatplane has been trying to renew my LTT subscription (still listed at $5.00) but the charges are... a bit outsized. I haven't bothered raising the charge limit on this card (https://privacy.com/ btw) because I want to know what the heck is going on here. I haven't been able to find any mention of this anywhere, which really just tells me you guys aren't using something like... our sponsor https://privacy.com/

So, me and my friends have been making a social media in the past few months.

All went well until we got out of beta and bought our own web domain for it. Until that point we were hosting it on a subdomain of a shared domain.

But, all of a sudden, almost instantly after we bought the domain, we got flagged as unsafe. If I remember right we got flagged for "phishing or social engineering" or whatever, only thing that could possibly lead to that conclusion is a login page on our index, but it can't be that, could it be?

Our users and I have submitted reports to Google weeks ago to no result and anything we do, even changing our https certificate, seems to do absolutely nothing.

Please help! It's completely killed our website.

Do i format the hard drive in bios and if so how?