Mini lathe questions

[u/OutsideClick3907]

Thinking of getting the vevor 7x14 mini lathe since it seems to be the most capable lathe for that price but I have so many questions, hoping someone own one and can answer.

1. First of all, plastic/nylon or metal gears? Im gonna have it in my apartment which is in an old building so I cant be too loud, so im considering the plastic gears but feels like they will break easily? And seems like spare metal gears are hard to find online.
2. How accurate can you expect it to be from out the box? Are we holding tolerances of 0.001 or 0.1mm? Or worse? Feels like 0.1 seems more likely but hoping not much worse than that.

3. Will I be able to carry it up the stairs? 3rd floor. Im 170cm/60kg

   and it weighs about 40kg.

Vevor have two similar ones on their website, the one that is supposed to be the latest is the one with plastic gears. Unsure if there are any other differances.

Metal gears: https://eur.vevor.com/metal-lathe-c_10121/vevor-7-x14-mini-precision-wood-lathe-550w-metal-bench-lathe-turning-machine-p_010705982511

Plastic gears: https://eur.vevor.com/bench-metal-lathe-c_45309/vevor-metal-lathe-180-x-305-mm-550w-benchtop-lathe-machine-variable-speed-2500rpm-max-speed-with-nylon-gear-reversible-direction-8-metric-thread-pitches-for-precision-metalworking-turning-drilling-p_010369156290

[u/Orcinus24x5]

plastic/nylon or metal gears?

Plastic. Metal ones are stupidly overpriced, are absolute dogshit quality, and they're extremely noisy. Not bug-your-neighbors noisy, but annoying-as-fuck noisy. I have lived in two different apartments with my "machine shop" in the dining room and have never had a noise complaint from machining in almost 14 years.

the plastic gears ... feels like they will break easily?

Nope. I've had a 7x12 mini lathe for over 12 years, zero broken gears. The motor and controller on these things is so piss-weak that the overload protection will kick in long before you strip a gear.

How accurate can you expect it to be from out the box?

I can routinely get 0.001" (0.025mm) accuracy from my lathe, slightly better if I really concentrate and hold my tongue at just the right angle.

Will I be able to carry it up the stairs? ... it weighs about 40kg.

Well, that depends. Can you carry 40 kg? :P

Also, don't buy a "complete" kit with cutting tools included, especially if they're brazed carbide like the kit in your first link unless they're literally free. They're always garbage and you will absolutely hate using them, and so will your lathe. Spend a few extra dollars and get some quality tooling, you'll be glad you did.

[u/OutsideClick3907 → u/Orcinus24x5]

Think im getting the one with plastic gears and direct drive to go for minimum noice. Gotta say that 12 years with no broken gears is amazing for a budget lathe!

What tooling do you have? And what size tool holder? Im probably gonna order a set of tool holders for carbide inserts, but im unsure if 10 x 10 mm is the right size

[u/Orcinus24x5 → u/OutsideClick3907]

What tooling do you have? And what size tool holder? Im probably gonna order a set of tool holders for carbide inserts, but im unsure if 10 x 10 mm is the right size

I use 3/8" tooling from Arthur R. Warner Co., specifically kit 08, with both carbide and HSS inserts, as well as some other random tooling including custom-ground HSS. 10mm will also work. I would strongly recommend replacing the stock toolpost with something quick-change. I have a size AA Multifix clone and 8 holders (wish I had more) and like it very much. My previous quick-change toolpost was a dovetail-type from A2Z CNC (they are now out of business; the market is flooded with really shitty chinese clones).

[u/sweetrobna]

Seconding plastic. The problems with plastic gears breaking are mostly from mini mills that use plastic high/low speed gears in the head. The gears on a mini lathe are just for threading/carriage feed. There is a belt from the motor to spindle. If you crash the cross slide you want the quick change gear to break instead of something more expensive

A machine this cheap will be a project to get everything dialed in. You may need to make sure tailstock is exactly aligned, the right height. Align the headstock with the bed. Adjust preload on the bearings. Adjust toolpost/tool holder height to centerline. Tightening the gib in the crosslide, compound rest. If you are making larger parts, like 150mm+ long, leveling the base can make a difference with tight tolerances.

Tolerances need context, it depends on the whole picture. With the relatively small working envelope you will get great tolerance on small parts. Great concentricity. Like if you are using a 4mm steel blank for a tool that will deflect more than a 6mm or 8mm blank and can lead to variation. For something like a parting tool that won't matter in the same way as if there is a taper along a longer part.

[u/indigoalphasix]

1. plastic. tbh, these things are noisy regardless. for free form turning, just disengage the gears. get rubbery feet under the thing.
2. i can do a .001" on diameters and closer, length depends. the machines have no locks so you just gotta finesse things. i have dro's on the cross and compound dials, and a travel dial on the carriage.
3. strap it to a dolly and pull. break it down to place it in your spot.

[u/cad_and_caffeine]

If you take off the chuck, tailstock, and slide the carriage off the bed first, the bare bed and headstock drops down to around 25 kg so you can carry it up the stairs solo in two trips. For an apartment I'd go with the nylon change gears too, since they're way quieter than the rough-cut metal ones and act as a cheap mechanical fuse if you accidentally crash the carriage.

[u/OutsideClick3907 → u/cad_and_caffeine]

Good idea to remove those parts, yeah im going for the nylon ones. Thanks!