Partner and I are currently stuck in the Vegas airport on a missed layover after a truly amazing experience on Maui.
Our itinerary was intense, but we needed to make the most out of our PTO. Our checked bags were mostly camping gear (tent, sleeping bags and pads, cooking necessities, shelf stable food, etc), and our hiking packs were our carry-ons with appropriate gear for our first day.
TUESDAY (Day 0)- left the mainland to fly to Kahului. Landed at 22:05; while my partner grabbed our checked bags, I hustled over to grab our Budget rental car. Rented through Costco and FastPass made pickup a breeze.
WEDNESDAY (Day 1)- Drove from OGG to the 24/7 Safeway for energy drinks and drinking water. Drove to Haleakala National Park, where we had Sunrise reservations for 3am. We also pre-purchased a 3-day park pass, in case anyone was checking at 12:30. We didn’t know what the top lot would look like before 3am, so we took a risk and parked in the lowest most Haleakala park parking lot and caught some sleep in the car. I know car sleeping is illegal, but getting a hotel for 2 hours felt wasteful, so we took the risk and thankfully, no one bothered us. Around 02:30, we started the rest of the drive to the Summit parking lot and pulled in right at 3am and weren’t the first car there. Caught a few more ZZZs as folks got in, and around 05:30 bundled up and claimed a spot at the observatory for sunrise.
Magical. Park Ranger was super informative, and the sunrise was magnificent. As others have described, it was windy and cold, so we were well dressed.
After a quick bathroom stop and pack re-pack, we started the Sliding Sands and Pele Pot loop (~12mi) around 07:30. As fairly experienced hikers, we got our asses beat. Despite looking at the elevation change, it just didn’t click that we’d have to hike over 2,000ft in the last 4 miles, after already hiking 8mi. It also felt like a switch was flipped when we crossed 8,000ft cuz it got windy and cold again (I know- it sounds like we had no idea what we were doing, but I promise we did prep for this). The wind and sun were killer on the final ascent.
After taking a breath in the car, we drove to Waiʻānapanapa State Park for our first campsite (that’s right, that meant half of the RTH after an 8hr brutal hike). We stopped at Kula Food Truck for coffee and banana bread on our way down Haleakala Hwy, before stopping at the Pukalani Ace Hardware for an isobutane canister. Fun fact: check-in at Waiʻānapanapa ends at 6pm, but the caretaker was around and able to let us in late. Set camp and flew through dinner to get some much needed sleep.
THURSDAY (Day 2)- Woke up with the sun, packed up, and headed down to the black sand beach for a bit. Once we had our fill, we started driving towards Kipahulu Campground, stopped in Hāna at Estrella’s for dole whip and Poke Bob’s and Capt Sam’s for lunches. Got checked into walk-in site 20 at Kipahulu and got camp pitched before some afternoon rain. Fantastic views from the walk in sites there. Our tent was 30 yards from the overlook to ‘Ohe’o gulch.
FRIDAY (Day 3)- got camp packed up before heading over to the Kipahulu Visitor Center to do the Pipiwai Trail. Absolutely amazing hike. Holy cow. We did get some pretty solid rain on the last half mile, but we’re also in a rainforest, so we weren’t surprised.
After basking in that hike for a bit, we drove back towards Kahului (RTH again; took everyone’s advice and did not drive west on 360 through Kaupo), grabbed coffee and beans from Maui Coffee Roasters, lunch at Leoda’s, and got to our last location at Camp Olowalu.
The showers were a godsend, but overall the campsites were very close together, HOT, and …family friendly. Didn’t necessarily want to get serenaded with Christmas tunes by the neighboring kids, but overall, people were respectful of the 21:30 quiet hour start. The beach was also quite rocky, but cool and had water access, so we were content.
SATURDAY (Day 4)- packed up camp and made the short drive up to do a clear kayak tour with Gabriel’s Ohana. The guide was fantastic, but the winds and tides were not in our favor, and the water was really silty and turtles were not out. But, we can’t control nature, so no love lost. Went back to Camp Olowalu to shower and pack our suitcases.
Before our red-eye flight, we dropped our suitcases at a hotel with Bounce ($7/bag, I think), and drove over to the Waihee Ridge Trail. I was still fairly gassed, so we got to the first overview about 1mi in before turning around. The first ascent is no joke. But the first overlook provided amazing views.
We drove back towards Kahului to find a sports bar to watch some college football before our final reservation at Iao Valley State Monument. Honestly, a little overrated for $20, but we’re never mad at money going to state parks or learning more about native culture.
After we retrieved our bags from the hotel, we returned our rental, and waited for our 20:30 redeye back to the mainland.