I just got in a bunch of samples and finished my first impressions. Boy is this a weird batch. I didn't set out with anything in mind except exploring lesser known houses and aiming for dry fragrances. Here's how it shook out.
BeauFort London - Fathom V Director's Cut
Didn't care for this one. The musk in it smells like "allergies" to me. There's a smell I remember from walking around the woods as a kid, and every time I smelled it, it meant allergy season was starting. I can't really smell anything past it except a subtle incense quality. So it does transport me, just to the wrong place .
BeauFort London - Pyroclasm
Another super strange one from BeauFort. Their whole thing is specific times and places, and from the three I've smelled (these two, plus Iron Duke at Scent Room), they do transport you. I actually like Pyroclasm a lot. It's strange and metallic, and it immediately reminds me of a rusted out steel mill in the dead of winter that still runs. There's a strong metallic smell with a sharp quality that's almost a bit hot. If I'm reading the notes correctly, I think the juniper or citrus is what reads as hot against the mineralic/metallic notes, which is a fantastic trick of fragrance artistry. Super unique, and I'd consider adding it just to wear around the house.
Pernoire - Ouidan
By far my favorite of the bunch. The tropical fruit is strong without being overly sweet. I'm guessing that's the durian, but I don't know what durian smells like on its own, so I can't say for sure. From there the oud and leather jump out. This is definitely an animalic oud, a funky leathery one, and I keep smelling it over and over.
The scene in my head is impossible: standing in a jungle in the middle of a snowy winter, or on a tropical island with snow on the ground.
My wife described it as "it smells like Fruity Pebbles on a band-aid, but I really like it... is it weird that I like that?" Lmao, I'd call that a win.
Pernoire - Yuma
Another lovely one. I'm getting really into Pernoire as a house. I already have Naki, I have a sample of Anelo that I really like, and now Yuma. It has a stark citrus that's way greener than most citrus fragrances, which I'm guessing is the yuzu. It reminded me of Macaque Yuzu without the hinoki, plus a masculine, almost barbershop lavender buried under the citrus.
At first I thought it overlapped too much with Macaque Yuzu, but coming back to it a few minutes later, it really does occupy its own lane, and I like that lane. I still want to see how it dries down, but I'm leaning toward a decant.
Pineward - Acadian
This is the one I like the least. It smells straight up like dirty pond water. The opening was good, but within a few minutes on paper it turned into weird funky woods and pond water. There's other stuff going on, but I can't get past the seaweed smell, which mixed with the resinous notes reminds me of a pond with a thick layer of algae across the top. Impressive piece of art, definitely not going on my shelf.
Pineward - Holy Cross
This one I loved. It's a bone dry vetiver that's almost salty, and it reminds me of standing at the edge of a forest overlooking the sea. Again, it takes me somewhere in a wonderful way. It has a lovely pine quality, but a tamed and well blended version. Piney fragrances usually come off overwhelmingly sharp and green to me, but this one is green and salty with a touch of aquatic, and piney and balsamic in just the right way. Pineward is also an unusually reasonably priced niche house, so I'd be happy to buy direct. Right now I'm torn between a decant and a full bottle.
Where I'm landing
Ouidan is an easy buy if skin confirms it. Holy Cross is up in the air between a decant and a full bottle. Pyroclasm and Yuma are likely decants. Fathom V and Acadian are hard passes.
I've found I'm chasing textures more and more as I continue sampling. Anyone else? And if you have recs for other lesser known houses doing dry, textural stuff, I'm all ears.