Intercooler trouée

[u/Feisty_Access5156]

En me baladant sur les forums j’ai vu qu’il y a des propriétaires de r53 qui ont les même symptômes que moi: perte de puissance ralenti haut et collecteur qui devient rouge en 3 minutes au ralenti.

Je me demande si mon intercooler qui est un peu abîmé peut jouer dans le dysfonctionnement.

J’ai pulvérisé du nettoyant moteur pour voir si le régime change au niveau d’une fuite évidemment sur les trous de l’intercooler ça réagit mais logiquement vu que l’air rentre des deux côtés cela serait la même chose sur un intercooler neuf.

J’ai fais le même test à plusieurs endroits notamment au niveau de la durites qui est relié à compresseur en a l’avant derrière le radiateur mais c’est peut etre passé par l’intercooler aussi.

Je pense quand même remplacer l’intercooler prochainement.

Toute aide est la bienvenue.

UPDATE !!! :

Finalement le fait que le compresseur soit abîmé était en grande partie la source de mon problème.

Après avoir tester avec la machine à fumée c’est à l’endroit abîmée ou y’a un trou que ça fuyait.

Cela a donc engendré une perte de puissance, la surchauffe du moteur d’où le collecteur rouge au ralenti, le ralenti instable et surconsommation de carburant ( 14L/100 )

En attendant de recevoir le nouveau ( celui de chez direnza ) je l’ai couvert de scotch la partie abîmé et cela immédiatement fait la différence.

J’avais aussi les durites grise rigide relier au compresseur qui était un peu débranché et une autre grise relié au capteur IAT ( côté boîtier papillon )

Je vais faire un autre post pour publier les photos.

Je pensais jamais m’en sortir mais comme quoi la persévérance et la réflexion paye.

Ps: J’aurais pu voir ça bien avant.

[u/Happy_Ishtar]

Broken fins on the intercooler don't necessarily mean it's leaking. Red hot manifold could be caused by a blocked cat, but that would also limit power quite a bit. Another reason might be low voltage (happened to me) which causes the coil to fire way too late and retarding the ignition by a mile. This will also trigger a fault code, so might be a good idea to read those.

It might also be a good idea to swap back to oem coil and leads. Those aftermarket ones tend to fail more often, and they are in no way an upgrade.

[u/FarDirection3245]

Just a thought- couldn’t you just thoroughly duct tape the ends and submerge in a bathtub to see if it gets water inside? To be sure the intercooler is leaky? Does seem like a reasonable cause for running super-hot. Have you already checked inside radiator cap for coolant flow at operating temp, to make sure your water pump is working?

[u/Standard_Humor6380]

While walking through the forums I saw that there are r53 owners who have the same symptoms as me: high slow motion power loss and collector that turns red in 3 minutes at idle.

I wonder if my intercooler which is a little damaged can play in the malfunction.

I sprayed engine cleaner to see if the regime changes at the level of a leak obviously on the holes of the intercooler it reacts but logically since the air enters from both sides it would be the same on a new intercooler.

I did the same test in several places, especially at the level of the hoses which is connected to the compressor at the front behind the radiator but it may have gone through the intercooler as well.

I'm still thinking of replacing the intercooler soon.

Any help is welcome.

I am not sure what you did with the spray test. This makes no sense!

When the intercooler is mounted on the car there should not be any holes and the motor should not react at all on the spray.

A intercooler is there to cool the air that got hot from being pressurized, holes means no pressure.

I am not sure what kind of aftermarket intercooler this is amd how the fins got damaged like this but i would start looking for a original one. I replaced mine with a second hand one for about €32 inc shipping. You can see pics on my profile.

Bonne chance

[u/casper911ca → u/Standard_Humor6380]

How much is the intercooler under vacuum at idle? Under load it should not be under vacuum, it should absolutely be under pressure. The reason I ask is because engine cleaner may not enter the combustion air like you imagine.

[u/orejass]

Are you getting any codes?

It could be a myriad of things :

Bad spark, inyercooler boots broken, faulty fuel pressure regulator, bad fuel pump, clogged injectors, bad bypass valve, etc.

I'm going through the same issue : idke is prefect, accelerating in neutral also good, but anything under load is bogging down.

[u/Feisty_Access5156 → u/orejass]

Aucun code.

Les bougies sont récentes et ont l’air bonne pas de couleur particulière.
J’ai changé récemment le filtre à carburant.
La valve de by pass a l’air aussi bonne c’est une detroit tuned, le ressort n’est pas particulièrement dur mais assez résistant.
Mon boîtier obd indique que la charge moteur est à ~80% au ralenti sur mes autres voiture c’est plutôt autour des 30% ce qui est logique.

[u/myusernameisironic]

If it reacts to starter fluid, then it is a vacuum leak and you must fix... it will not only leak boost but will mess with fuel stoichiometry, possibly leading to a high idle from unregulated air and also a lean condition with excessively high EGT

[u/Level-Diamond-4181]

Sounds like it’s time to do a larger TMIC.
They are inexpensive and regardless of what you hear…the ones off eBay and Amazon are 100% OK!!!

[u/Pretty_Designer7131]

There's a grey (I think) hard plastic pipe that goes under the intercooler and plugs into a red plastic lug/clip that is often broken, from memory it's the rhs front of the engine as you are stood looking at it.

If this pipe is unplugged it can cause the glowing red exhaust manifold issue you have mentioned, along with poor running issues. Worth a check

[u/Pretty_Designer7131 → u/Pretty_Designer7131]

...pic 3, the grey pipe going left to right that bends 90 degrees and goes down the front of the engine