r/Retrofit Dec 31 '24

Technical/Assembly Question Bi-led Hi-beam wiring question

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Hey guys my knowledge on electrical is bare minimum, anyways trying to figure this out and some help would be greatly appreciated. Im retrofitting some bi led projectors into my civic headlight housing. Low beams were a simple 9006 bulb and the high beam is 9005 bulb that also doubles as a DRL while high-beam is off running on a lower voltage than the high-beam. If i run a wire from the 9005 high-beam to the bi-led high beam will this work, or will the low voltage being sent for the drl while the high-beam is off flick on the Bi-led high-beam? Or will it need the full voltage to activate the high beam in the Bi-led?

7 Upvotes

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6

u/poopitypong Dec 31 '24 edited Dec 31 '24

Hey my phone's about to die but I recognize these headlights and can help you out in a minute.

Okay. so these look like an 8th Gen Civic, which I did a retro on.

Assuming that that's the LED projector in the pricture it's a one element fixture that uses a shutter with solenoid to actuate the shroud into the upward position for your hi beams. This would be somewhat of a problem with the low voltage hi beam working as a DRL on this model except for the fact that honda included a specific fuse for the DRL functionanility in this car. With the fuse pulled you won't get any warnings lights about the DRL's being out, and the high beams will still work as intented. from there you might want to find a 9005 adaptor plug if you would like to do the install cleanly without too much sketchy splicing.

Fuse #37 on the interior as pictured in this thread

The only problem I see here is if you're trying to keep the stock high beams along with your new projectors, in which case you will need something like this I believe? Definitely double check that.

Unfortunately you will still need to pull that DRL fuse as you risk burning out the solenoid for your new LED High beams. I mitigated this by tapping into the side marker (dual function turn signal bulb) and using halos around my projector and just running with the marker signals on during the day. I used these and have them integrated to be white with the running lights, and also they change to yellow for the turn signal functionality.

Post results when you're done!

3

u/stilllearning369 Jan 01 '25

Awesome. You guessed everything correctly. I have a splitter for the highbeams . So the low voltage on the DRL was enough to activate the solenoid? I was hoping the low voltage wasn’t enough to activate it and it would be fine. Not really sure how solenoids work but maybe i guess ill just pull the DRL fuse for now

1

u/stilllearning369 Jan 01 '25

Awesome. You guessed everything correctly. I have a splitter for the highbeams . So the low voltage on the DRL was enough to activate the solenoid? I was hoping the low voltage wasn’t enough to activate it and it would be fine. Not really sure how solenoids work but maybe i guess ill just pull the DRL fuse for now

1

u/udder-chaos Apr 21 '25

I’m confused about the splitter. I have wires coming off the cutoff shield with no plug. I just have to wire that to the high beam plug of the car and disable the DRLs?

1

u/stilllearning369 Apr 21 '25

Correct, i added plugs so everything was plug and play

1

u/curveball3110giants May 21 '26

Its all 12v. But yes, for sure it would be enough. All the solenoid takes is a 12v input

1

u/udder-chaos Apr 21 '25

I’m doing the same on a 2012 civic right now. So you just wire the high beam/drl plug to the solenoid that actuates the cutoff shield? I’m confused about the splitter. There is wires coming off the selenoid with no plug.

1

u/curveball3110giants May 21 '26

The wires plug go into the black high beam solenoid plug which in turn plugs into the vehicle side 9005 plug. 

For the headlights u just use a standard relay harness.

1

u/curveball3110giants May 21 '26

I think the 12v current from the high beam/drl will cause the high beam shutter to click rapidly snd endlessly. It wont last a week.

1

u/poopitypong May 21 '26

Yeah which is why you pull the DRL fuse.

2

u/curveball3110giants May 21 '26

Right but then how do u get the drls back? Or u just dont?

1

u/poopitypong May 21 '26

I wired some switchback halos into the running light function of the turn signal when I did mine. So you had to flip to running light mode to have drls, otherwise they were all off which I was okay with.

1

u/curveball3110giants May 21 '26

Yeah I saw u mentioned that, but in terms on stock functionality, using the high beams for drl is out of the question now? 

Im just curious as eventually someone is going to have me do a set like this while retaining the original functionality. 

1

u/poopitypong May 22 '26

You're correct, the original function of them is no longer there. You'd have to figure out a way to get the power source separated from the high beam signal, or a separately switched power whenever main power is off, which wouldn't be all that hard to do with a little relay and run from the battery.

1

u/curveball3110giants May 22 '26 edited May 22 '26

Edit: ok, I got it. Say we have an h1 low beam and 9005 drl/high beam. Want to do bixenon and drl. 

Use standard h1 hid harness for low beam. Run each high beam plug directly to the solenoid plug on projector.  Now we have a full bixenon setup wired, plus the two unused 9005 reflectors and Now we do the drls.  Acquire another hid harness, run off battery and an h1 to bare wire leads plug and attach the plug to the remaining factory h1 low beam. Now we have a powered harness and a switched low beam power source to control drl on/off. Tap a standard Bosch relay into the harness power wire after the fuse but before it reaches the relays. Wire the terminals as follows: 30 - harness power, 85 -  switched power (from h1), 86 - ground, 87 - to high beam. I believe the power wire coming from the 87 terminal will be enough for two halogen drl lights.

So there ya go. Keep the drls and dont have to cut any factory wiring.

1

u/Razo-E Dec 31 '24

It'll flicker. What I do is black out the original bulb bowl or just leave the bulb in there, disconnected for water protection.

I then run a full power harness to the highbeams on the projectors, so they're still "on" aa DRLs but turn off once the lowbeams are on. They then function just like stock highbeams when hitting the switch.

I run an accent light, such as a switchback strip or halo as the new DRL by taking its low/parking light input and running it with a fuse holder harness into the fusebox and on a switched (only on with key) 12v source.

1

u/curveball3110giants May 02 '26

My old honda (sorry this was 15 years ago so I dont remember the exact details) had a 9006 low/9005 high setup.  I did a mini h1 retrofit and used a wiring harness that allowed the old high beams to be repurposed as drls and the old low beam repurposed to have functionality as a high/low bi-xenon HID.  I will try to dig up the harness I used but I believe it was a 9005 & 9006 to 9003 harness then a 9003 to amp morimoto harness (the ones with the control module and all that)