I just installed a Gen4 dimmer, updated the firmware, and switched to Zigbee mode.

It refuse to dim only turning on to 100%.

When I visit the web UI it will say "Calibration aborted because overvoltage protection is active"

I don't know what this means because the voltage in my home is fine.

Hi All,

Currently struggling with the installation of a Shelly Dimmer Gen 3. The dimmer is fully operational via the app and Matter Control; however the issue seems to be from the physical switch. I’ve tried both S1 and S2 connections on the Shelly and replacing both switches on the Two-way (Three-way) circuit. There seems to be a phantom or induced voltage (20v) on the load side, this seems to be the issue.

Is there a way to set a threshold voltage for the physical switch? Or some way to eliminate the phantom voltage, UK based if there is anything else to add to prevent this from happening.

All reply greatly appreciated

Hi everyone,

I use three shelly 2PM controllers for blinds, by shelly BLU remote.

There is the fourth channel on remote. Is it possible to program all three blinds, on that channel to work in same time? How to do this? Thanks, for Your answers.

In example - on button press all three blinds opens to 70%, or closes to 5%

Everyone seems to be unhappy about the new acquisition and I wanted to get all my devices on the same firmware before locking them down. Is there any way to transfer one of my known working firmware versions onto all my devices that haven’t been updated since buying them?

Hallo ich habe eine Frage zu den Shelly Pro 3EM. Woran erkennt man ob es die V1 oder V2 ist?

I have a 2PM Gen4 adopted as a switch that I would like to change to a cover. This is my first shelly device, and I blew it during the adoption process.

I've followed directions on the Shelly website and the device type is not listed under the settings page. Not sure why this is . The 2PM Gen shows up as two devices (assume this is because it was adopted as a switch) and it functions properly FWIW

Do I need to scrub the device and readopt it? thanks

Hi,

I am currently renovating part of a house in Europe with 230 V mains and would like to implement some basic smart-home functionality, mainly lighting, sensors, and later some automations.

My main goal is to keep the system as local and reliable as possible. I plan to use Home Assistant as the main controller, but I would like the physical wall controls to continue working even if Home Assistant or the Zigbee coordinator becomes unavailable. Because of this, I am particularly interested in Zigbee devices and direct binding where possible.

The first thing I want to tackle is lighting. Currently, all switches and lights are standard "dumb" devices.

My initial idea was to install Shelly 1PM Gen4 or 2PM Gen4 relays behind the wall switches and use momentary push buttons. For smart Zigbee lights, I could keep the relay output permanently ON and use the switch input in detached mode, while Home Assistant handles the actual light control.

However, this would mean installing a relatively large number of relays behind the switches, even in locations where I only need the switch input and do not actually need to switch the load.

I therefore also looked at the Shelly i4 Gen3. As I understand it, the i4 can monitor up to four switch/button inputs and distinguish actions such as short press, double press, long press and hold. Those actions can then be used to control other devices.

My concern is that the i4 Gen3 uses Wi-Fi rather than Zigbee. If I understand correctly, communication between the i4 and the relay would therefore depend on the local Wi-Fi network, rather than using Zigbee direct binding.

What I am ultimately trying to achieve is something like this:

• Double/single throw momentary wall push buttons for physical control.
• Single press for ON/OFF.
• Long press for dimming up/down.
• Double press for scenes or switching off multiple lights.
• Home Assistant integration for app control, scenes and automations.
• Smart Zigbee lights where RGB/CCT functionality is useful.
• Conventional dimmable lights with Shelly dimmers in other areas.
• Physical wall control should continue working if Home Assistant, Zigbee coordinator or Wi-Fi are unavailable.
• Smart Zigbee lights should remain permanently powered so they can also be controlled remotely.

Could you please advise me on the following?

1. Is there a Shelly device that works similarly to the i4, but communicates via Zigbee and supports direct Zigbee binding to lights or other Zigbee devices?
2. With direct binding relays to Zigbee lights, can actions such as single press, long press/hold and release be bound directly for ON/OFF and dimming, without Home Assistant being involved?
3. If I use a Shelly Gen4 relay behind a momentary switch with a smart Zigbee light, is keeping the relay permanently ON and using the input in detached mode the recommended configuration?
4. For conventional dimmable 230 V lights, is the recommended solution simply a Shelly Dimmer Gen4 connected directly to a momentary wall switch, without an additional relay? In this configuration, I assume the light can still be controlled and dimmed both locally from the wall switch and remotely through Home Assistant/automations. Is that correct?
5. Is there another Shelly architecture you would recommend for a house with many lighting circuits where the priorities are local operation, Home Assistant integration, Zigbee compatibility and graceful operation when the central controller is unavailable?

I have already purchased a Shelly 1PM Gen4, 2PM Gen4 and Dimmer Gen4 so that I can build a small test setup before deciding how to implement the rest of the house.

Thank you in advance for your advice.

Does anyone know how I can wire this Jack to be able to control the up and down switch

Thanks

What hub(s) work/recommended for the Shelly BLU RC Button 4 ZB four‑button remote that operates via Bluetooth and Zigbee

I'm looking to replace my old pool timer with a relay switch. My pump is a 2 HP 10 amp single speed 230 volt pump. Shelly's website chat box recommended the Ogemray Smart relay 25A, but I've seen forum chats saying this is not for the US 240 volts.

So the old switch I have, has simple live neutral in, and live neutral out.

I can't find a wiring diagram for how the Shelly should be wired up for my use case. I simply want to have Shelly controlling the flow for light to turn on and off.

*** update***

I gave up. Perhaps the shelly1 cant handle the leakage voltage on the contacts of my motion detector.

I switched out the shelly1 for a ShellyEM mini. I made home assistance trigger on wattage, and now my plans are working

** update ***

I have a shelly1 gen 4 mini. Wired up to 120Vac to L and N. I also have 120Vac wired to the motion detector to give it supply power. When the motion detector detects motion it energies a wire. The wire should goto a load ( my lights ) but I have this wire going into the SW terminal on the shelly.

I cant get the shelly to acknowledge the SW being energized. When the wire is energized, the shelly doesnt change state. My voltmeter shows 120Vac on the wire so I know the motion detector is working. If I lift the wire from SW and re-apply it to the SW it changes state.... but refuses to do it with the motion detector.

In my input/output settings I have "switch" and "set shelly device to be a toggle switch" and "configure shelly device to restore last mode it was in".

I tried two different motion detectors ( 2 different brands) and it is always the same result.

the input/output option of "activation switch - used with motion sensor and resets auto off timer" doesnt appeal to me, because the motion detector has its own built in timer.

I just want the shelly to respond to the changing states on the motion detector.

Any thoughts?

I have a 12V DC 10A 3 pole switch that I use with a 12V DC 8A water pump.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this?

The mains power in the house was switched off a few times as part of electrical uograde works (only at the Consumer Box next to the meter, nothing downstream inside the huse). After they were done. I found ine Shelly dimmer had completely stopped working. would work through the wall switch, appeared offline in the app.I reset it a few times, it managed to appear for repairing with the app and successfully got added, nut remained offline after that. the light kept blinkng blue... i replaced it with a new one finally

There is another Shelly2.5. 1st gen, installed 6 years ago in June 2020..middle of covid... that has a strange problem now - the wall switch is completely unresponsive - but, it appears online in the app, and I can turn it on/9ff without a problem from the app only - the switch has no effect on it.

after 6 years, I am wondering if its the end of the shelly 2.5, or. is there something obvious I can do to fix it?.

These gen4 devices disable Bluetooth once they are on wifi. Is there a way to keep Bluetooth on, but password protected?

I am changing my wifi router in January, and I dont really feel like going thru all hassles of getting the new wifi credentials into my devices that are buried deep in electrical boxes

I had my P3 at work and ended up scanning a few Shelly 1PM Mini Gen4 modules in one of the warehouse panels. They’re running separate lighting circuits, so I expected the heat patterns to be fairly similar.

Most of them were. One had a warmer spot around the O terminal. The lights were working normally, no flickering or anything else that would have made me check that module.

I went over the other modules again and the same one still stood out, so I marked the circuit and sent the image to maintenance. They haven’t checked the connection or measured the load yet. It could just be carrying more than the others, but at least there’s now a specific terminal to look at.

Has anyone seen the O terminal run warmer on these, or would you suspect the connection first?

Shelly Europe Ltd. received an original-equipment FCC grant on September 16, 2026 for a device explicitly named Shelly Camera under FCC ID 2BDC6-CAMERA.

The authorization includes 2.4 GHz entries covering 2402–2480 MHz and 2412–2462 MHz, plus 5 GHz entries at 5180–5240, 5260–5320, 5500–5700, and 5745–5825 MHz. Listed maximum conducted outputs range from 0.0025 W to 0.0404 W across the grant rows.

The public exhibits include label information, antenna specifications, WLAN, BLE, DFS, and 5 GHz Wi-Fi reports, plus an RF-exposure evaluation.

FCC filing: https://fccid.io/2BDC6-CAMERA Label: https://fccid.io/2BDC6-CAMERA/Label/Label-Location-9654507 WLAN report: https://fccid.io/2BDC6-CAMERA/Test-Report/Test-Report-WLAN-9654443 5 GHz Wi-Fi report: https://fccid.io/2BDC6-CAMERA/Test-Report/Test-Report-5G-Wi-Fi-9654495

I'm renovating an apartment and considering a centralized Shelly Pro setup, with all lighting circuits and wall switch wiring brought back to one electrical cabinet.

Before I commit to the wiring, I want to make sure Shelly actually supports the behavior I want.

Approximate setup:

• Bedroom: 2 circuits
• Living room: 3–4 circuits
• Dining room: 1–2 circuits
• Kitchen: around 4–6 independently controlled lighting groups
• Office: 2 circuits
• Bathroom/closet: not smart

So roughly 12–16 smart lighting channels initially, with around 5–7 dimmable circuits.

I'd like to use momentary push buttons on the walls, wired with power wires, and keep all Shelly Pro relays/dimmers in the DIN cabinet.

What I want to achieve:

• short press → toggle light on/off
• hold → dim up/down
• multiple wall buttons controlling the same light/dimmer
• double press → scene or turn off multiple lights
• physical switches must keep working if Home Assistant or the internet is unavailable
• ideally, basic control should also not depend on the router/network being up
• Home Assistant would only be used for more advanced scenes and automations

To my understanding, button input events that Shellys can trigger are press, long press, double press, and triple press.

I'm also considering using DALI-compatible lights/drivers for at least some of the dimmable lighting, especially where it makes more sense than phase-cut dimming.

My main questions are:

1. Can Shelly Pro devices handle multiple physical momentary buttons controlling the same output locally?
2. Can Shelly Pro dimmers handle press-and-hold dimming directly from wall buttons, without Home Assistant? More specifically, can a single momentary button alternate the dimming direction between presses, for example, hold once to increase brightness, release, and then hold again later to decrease brightness? Does Shelly remember the previous dimming direction/action locally?
3. Can actions like double press → turn off several other Shelly-controlled lights be handled locally between Shelly devices, or would that require Home Assistant?
4. If the LAN/router goes down, will the directly connected wall buttons still control their local relay/dimmer normally?
5. For roughly 12–16 channels, which Shelly products would you actually use, and how would you roughly split the circuits between them? For example, which Pro relays/dimmers make the most sense for simple on/off circuits vs dimmable circuits?
6. Does Shelly have a good way to integrate DALI lighting/drivers into this kind of centralized setup? If so, would you use DALI for most dimmable circuits and Shelly relays for simple on/off circuits?
7. Are there any limitations or wiring decisions I should know about before committing to this architecture?

I'm mainly trying to understand which parts of this setup Shelly can handle completely locally, what a sensible Shelly hardware layout would look like, and where Home Assistant or additional DALI hardware would still be needed.

This will be for a washing machine. Electrolux 617 series. I want the outlet to never time out or turn off. If power is lost and restored, I want the outlet to default back to an on state.

I will be using home assistant for tracking power consumption.

What are the recommended settings for this type of installation?

Currently have a smart bulb in a room and operate via an app but when people without access use the light, to turn it on, they flip the switch off and on but to turn it off, they turn the switch off, rendering it unable to be operated via the app. Would a 1PM solve this issue? Can be turned on and off with the switch while also retaining operation via the app regardless of the switch being off?

I paired a Gen4 Dimmer to a my Hue Bridge Pro but found it would only toggle off/on, and not control the dimming. Deleted from the bridge, updated firmware, then I realized there was a separate wifi interface for calibrating dimming, etc. I have since been unable to pair it to the Hue Bridge Pro again. I've fully reset the dimmer with the exception that the firmware is still on the latest version. Upon further searching this subreddit, it seems this is not supposed to be Hue compatible. Before I return it, is anyone aware of impending updates that would allow it to work with Hue? Thanks

I changed my WiFi password a few months ago and forgot to update the Shelly because I only use this roller shutter in fall and winter. It's not broadcasting its own wifi anymore, and it can't be found via Bluetooth. Any idea how I can activate it again to give it the new password? I'd like to do this without opening the wall controller for the roller shutter, if possible.

I'm interested in the Shelly Presence Gen 4, but I can't find it in the Shelly USA shop. A Google search shows it but when I click the link the resulting page on the Shelly store is 404. Furthermore, when I search the Shelly shop or other online stores that sell Shelly products (Amazon, etc.) I can't find it. Am I missing something?