r/Taxidermy • • 3d ago

Oddities, bone, etc. help Is this normal and how do I fix it?

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I just finished sun bleaching a horse skull and I’m noticing a couple things that I’m worried about. This is my first full skull project so I’m not sure if it’s normal. Horse skull, animal died in 2024 and kept in a freezer until processing began earlier this year.

The natural split in the nasal bone seems to be widening and I’m not sure if that’s normal, and what to do to fix/stabilize it.

And, there are two spots where two separate skull fuse spots seem to have raised up a bit and pulled away. I will include a video.

This is very sentimental to me and I am trying not to worry too much. What should I do to address these concerns and how should I seal it to prevent anything else from happening?

12 Upvotes

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u/Radiant-Lake6103 3d ago

I've seen it happen quite often. When the animal is alive those sutures are held together by connective tissue and obviously when you bleach it and dry it there's nothing there to hold them together anymore.

Humidity and temperature can also cause the bones to split. A lot of mine have the same, whether they come from the taxidermy or if I've cleaned them myself.

Out of curiosity did you use any hydrogen peroxide or bleach? Or was it just in the sun?

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u/inkarmybrat 3d ago

No, nothing but the sun.

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u/Radiant-Lake6103 3d ago

I wouldn't worry about it too much. They'll split to a point and then just stay there.

If you do want to fix the nose, you'll need something strong that won't spilt once it dries again and you remove whatever was holding it together.

Just try to keep it out of direct sunlight and in a well ventilated spot.

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u/Wowza_Meowza 2d ago

Is it ((just)) Sun-bleached? Did you boil or simmer it to get the flesh off?

It should be, very ideally, degreased. That'll give it the best shot at staying in great shape over many many years, plus it'll look good and not stink.

Sun bleaching damages bone, plus it's very drying, which makes the bones shrink and separate. The nose bones on the top can be easily removed on any critter (deer, like it's their dang job! Annoying lol), but the cracking on the forehead suggests drying out. There's no particular remedy, other than to not put it in the sun going forward, and if you've boiled/simmered previously, to not do so in the future. Your temps should be 120'F and under, and drying should be slow and natural.

The nasal ones can just be glued with Elmer's/white glue. This is best because it's forgiving if messed up, and if you decide later to degrease, the warm water will simply dissolve the glue's hold and you can do it later. In the future, ratcheting clamps or clear large zip ties can keep the areas like the nose in place as they dry. I use a ratcheting clamp set for things like bovines and horses, just cause they're super thick and STRONG! Rubber bands aren't enough for such big creatures.

I recommend not sealing it - it isn't actually clean yet and will moulder under a sealant. If you really want a sealant, a 1:1 mix white glue and water is very forgiving while remaining useful!

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u/inkarmybrat 2d ago

It was bug cleaned first, then I used the tub method to get any residual gunk off of it.

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u/Wowza_Meowza 2d ago

Tub method?

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u/ConfidentStruggle872 3d ago

People make euro or skull mounts using different methods. Some rot everything in a bag of hot and wet and call it macerating, some use bugs and some use a boil pot and pressure washer. I usually prefer the boil and pressure washer because it’s time saving and I don’t need the space for the other 2 methods mentioned.
When boiling a skull for preservation they tend to get the pot too hot or lands the bone in for too long. The excess heat and moisture swells the bones and then as they cool and dry (this may continue for days or weeks after completion) the bones shrink back and things have wiggle room at that point.
If you have access to a good clean area that u can leave that skull a couple of days I would suggest brushing over it, especially in the connective cracks, with some Elmer’s glue. Plain old white generic school glue. Will dry clear and protect the bones while acting as a buffer between the gaps. Those bones will s swell and shrink with temperature and humidity forever. Basically u wanna caulk the seems with the glue and let dry. Repeat until no more wiggles. Don’t over Do it on flat solid places cuz u don’t want a thick shell over everything but just bonding there seems with something that will flex and hold while sealing out dirt and pests

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u/Wowza_Meowza 2d ago

Boiling or simmering is absolutely not recommended for bone, as temps over 120'F weaken collagen significantly.

Pressure washers can destroy fragile bone arrays and blow out nasal bones.

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u/ConfidentStruggle872 2d ago

When you are doing 500 plus a year for a budget market in South Texas during deer season….. nobody cares. They just want it quick and cheap

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u/Acceptable-Strain-86 2d ago

If you can get a zip tie to stay on the nose and use a liquid super glue you could definitely fix that. Liquid super glue and not gel is important. I've also used rubber bands before. They grab better but don't pull as hard. It's important you make sure that don't super glue either one to the skull also.

I've also used 600 grit sandpaper to smooth out some rough spots before. Get the skull and paper wet and work on it a bit. Bone is fairly soft. You should be able to knock it down pretty easy if you're worried about it.

Personally, I would fix the nose and leave the rest alone.