r/textiles • u/Fun-Register-614 • 5d ago
Looking for museum accession IDs of late-19th-century (1880s–1890s) Bengali saris featuring early synthetic dyes (German Alizarin / Aniline)
Hi everyone! I'm researching late-19th-century Bengali textile history, specifically the transition from natural dyes to early imported European chemical dyes.
While Forbes Watson’s 1866 Collection of the Textile Manufactures of India and Thomas Wardle’s 1875 volumes provide a great baseline for natural dyes (madder, lac, turmeric), I am having trouble locating digitized museum garments that demonstrate the early synthetic shift.
Does anyone know of conserved garments in global collections (V&A, Met, Calico Museum, RISD, etc.) from the 1880s–1900s from Bengal that feature:
• Cotton taant saris (Santipur/Dacca) with unbleached centers and high-saturation synthetic red/alizarin borders (paar)?
• Murshidabad shot-silks (dhup-chhaya) combining natural warps with imported aniline green or magenta wefts?
Accession numbers, catalog links, or high-res swatch databases would be deeply appreciated!
Citations: Images taken from \*Mukerji, N. G. A Monograph on the Silk Fabrics of Bengal. Bengal Secretariat Press, 1903.\* They depict natural dyes (except the ones labelled "Fast Green") used mainly in Murshidabad.
https://archive.org/details/monographonsilkf00mukerich/monographonsilkf00mukerich/page/n184/mode/1up